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  1. #1

    Default Adjustable Caster Camber Plates

    Are adjustable caster/camber plates easy to install?

    The previous owner of my 85 GT Convertible installed lowering front springs but never changed the caster/camber plate. The camber can only be adjust so far and the car still has a lot of negative camber.

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member 86GTdriver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 289stang View Post
    Are adjustable caster/camber plates easy to install?

    The previous owner of my 85 GT Convertible installed lowering front springs but never changed the caster/camber plate. The camber can only be adjust so far and the car still has a lot of negative camber.
    According to places like 50resto, they're 'difficult' to install, but anyone with a good mechanics tool set and some basic know-how should be able to. It's not too hard. I recommend the MM instructions for 79-89 caster/cambers. It's all experience really. I'm still learning and on my first 5-lug conversion myself. Just do it, do your research and be safe.
    Last edited by 86GTdriver; 02-15-2014 at 03:09 AM.
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  3. #3
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    As usual I recommend the Maximum Motorsports version of CC Plates, they are the best out there IMHO. They are not the cheapest, but they work and work well. I also feel their instructions are some of the most detailed and thorough too.

    Definitely read the instructions before you do anything. Then read them again and follow each detail as you go. I have installed a lot of their CC plates and I still screw them up when I get in a hurry and don't follow the instructions. Not that the install is "difficult" but things have to be installed correctly and in the correct order, otherwise they don't work! Much of the time, getting the top plates swapped side to side is the first and biggest screw up. They are different and have to be installed right side up and on the correct side!
    Don't ask how I know!

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  4. #4

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    Thanks guys!! I guess after I replace the top, that will be the next order of business. Thanks again!!

  5. #5

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    Just for reference: I started this project last night on an 82 that was a TRX car (it makes as slight difference). Granted my fenders were just sitting on the car so I just pulled them off. Start to finish was 1 hour each side. It would have been quicker but my dust boots were different than shown so I had to mod them so they would work. It really is an easy project. I would remove the strut instead of lowering the a arm next time and it would go even faster.

    Oh yeah, they were Maximum Motorsports.

    Kenny

  6. #6

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    I had the same problem on my 1988 GT. when I tried to adjust my camber it only went so far without having the top of the struts hit the strut tower. So, basically what I did was cut out the hole so that it looked like an oval to allow the strut to move inward without hitting any thing. I was only still able to move it so far do to the brake master cylinder reservoir being in the way on the right side. this was still enough to make a difference. Then to add more support I installed a Strut tower brace. FYI if you are using an aftermarket distributor you may need to modify the brace so it fits over the top of the cap. there may be other ways to do this but this is how I did it and it is working fine. I use MMotorsports for everything possible.

  7. #7

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    Maximum Motorsports all the way! I removed the struts when I did mine last Spring... Of course I changed the spindles, struts, springs, and all bushings at the same time, but removing the struts from the spindles would make things easier.
    Last edited by banzaibullitt; 06-24-2019 at 11:11 PM.
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  8. #8
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    I just did cc plates last week. I went with SVE (though I won't argue about Maximum Motorsports being better). The SVE plates still seem way better than the stock plates. And yes, they're steel, not aluminum. The 1st side took me about 2 hrs. This was mostly spent scratching my head and trying to make sense of the instructions. They provided pictures, but the pictures weren't really labeled nor did they offer much help other than seeing what they look like out of the box. The other side literally took me about 20 minutes, since I already knew what I was doing.

    I basically had to lay everything out and try to figure out where all the spacers went, which way the plates went, etc.. I shouldn't really need the caster camber plates but I'll be getting an alignment soon (needed since the complete rebuild of the car, including all new front end parts) and I wanted to make sure the alignment was spot on. After the install, i eyeballed it and went for a drive. I swapped over to manual steering and the steering effort was ROUGH! After a quick 5 minute eyeball camber adjustment, the steering was 100% better.

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Once the pressure from a coil spring and vehicle weight is off the spindle you can do a lot to manipulate the camber setting at the strutattachment point. If more adjustment is needed you can slot the strut flange or go to a camber bolt.

    The major advantage of a caster camber plate is two fold. #1 getting the strut mounted a lot more solid. Lessens mid turn steering geometry changes that come with soft mounts and hard cornering

    #2 is dialing in positive caster. Always best to max out caster but make it even side to side.

    The caster camber plates I’ve seen and played with are actually an easy install — especially if you’re running a tire size and spring combo that allows you to leave the tires on the ground while you disassemble the mount and swap in the plates.

    If you decide to do crazy stuff like install the plates under the tower so they allow for more droop then you rapidly get to where it’s best to put a spring compressor on the coil from the bottom of the A arm while you’re dorkibg around with the struts.

    Not all kits can be installed under. Most will never say they can be. I’ve seen it done a few times — mainly in drag race applications. The idea is exactly the same as the old balljoint extensions used in the 60’s era cars.
    Last edited by erratic50; 06-25-2019 at 05:37 PM.

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