Close



Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1

    Thumbs up pure factory stock 1976 302 build up.

    I know first off, I'm going to get some harsh feed back for posting a truck in a Mustang website. But this is a what ever you want to put it in 302 mill though.This engine only has 34,000 and some change on the clock. SAE net hp rated at 122hp. The actual hp is 192 at the flywheel. Not the SAE smog era, My first rebuild ever, was copied out of hot magazine, 500 hp 460 ford engine. The same heads carb cam intake rocker arms and headers, Had my fingers crossed when I first fired up the beast. That was back when gas was less than a buck a gallon for Exxon 93 octane. I think now days, a 302 small block will do just fine with gas the way it is. I ordered a new, but used for display, Holley 600 cfm with electric choke for $179.00 off eBay. I was going to use a Edelbrock performer 2121 street intake, but researched a better newer, CNC wet flowed computer designed Weiand street manifold 1500-5500 rpm. Dynode out with 14 more hp than the over 20 year old 2121. And either use the stock cam with 1.75:1 ratio roller rockers or 1.8:1 grooved for high lift cams so when the rocker is on it's seat will not interfere with the GT-40p heads without machining the pedestals and costing me more $$$. 1 5/8 inch long tube headers. And recurve my stock distributor with lighter springs. 10 degrees idle and 24 degrees total timing all in by 2200 rpm, checked with a running engine and timing light.
    Finned valve covers and air filter cover. Chrome dip stick and power steering stick bought the engine with all that chrome already on it. A clutch cooling fan that does not hook up to the radiator unless it needs to, with built in heat thermostat. This is worth 25 hp over a direct hook up fan. Maybe hopefully 300+ HP at the flywheel? Oh less I forget a new chrome molly oil pump shaft. & chrome molly pushrods sized to fit so the roller bearing sits in the middle of the valve stem when the valves are on there seats. Hopefully with GT-40Ps lower cc combustion chamber, should put compression at 9.5:1. You 302 experienced guys let me know what you think. I'm not going racing with it so, The truck weighs 3300+ pounds with me in it. I'm on a shoe string budget! I buy parts when I can for the motor, I'm a get it as cheap as possible person, so... I l@@k high and low for parts that are used. Some parts I would not buy used. I stay a way from fancy parts and put my money where it counts. If I was going street/strip racing I'd love some AFR 165cc heads though. You have to clean up aluminum heads in order to out horse ported cast iron heads. You purchase at good set of aluminum heads and bolt them on as is, a pair of worked or cleaned up valve pockets cast iron heads will out horse the un worked aluminum heads every time. Don't be leave it? do it yourself and find out.
    Last edited by arless; 01-29-2014 at 02:52 AM. Reason: check for mistakes

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member FM2NOTCH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Foothills of Piedmont NC
    Posts
    3,265

    Default

    I would just put a 351 in it.
    *FOXTOBERFEST* 2015 http://www.foxmustangrestoration.com/events
    85 T Top coupe 5.0 2R red, E7's, rpm intake, 4180 carb, 7.4 1/8
    83 CC capri 5.0 5 speed,black mesh wheels
    76 cobra II 302 auto black/gold, big cam 3 inch dumps- sold to a good friend
    92 coupe 5.0 5 speed -red
    92 Lx hatch 5.0 5 speed -black, 66 coupe 5.0 4 spd (project)
    87 Vert 5.0 AOD red stock as a rock

    " Are you sure you know what you're talking about? It kinda sounds like you know what you're talking about"

  3. #3

    Default

    Is this for a Ranger? 3300+lbs is pretty light for a truck.

    I would build for torque to make it faster. I remember my 1982 F-250 and its 302. All the high rpm power was useless since idle to 4000 is where all the work was being done.

    Since its an earlier 302 and being 28oz balance. A 347 kit would go a long way to making better power/torque for what you are after.
    Black 1985 GT: 408w, in the 6's in the 1/8 mile
    Bimini Blue 1988 LX 5.0 Coupe 5-speed, Hellion turbo, zero options
    Grabber Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1: 351c, toploader
    Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
    Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by arless View Post
    If I was going street/strip racing I'd love some AFR 165cc heads though. You have to clean up aluminum heads in order to out horse ported cast iron heads. You purchase at good set of aluminum heads and bolt them on as is, a pair of worked or cleaned up valve pockets cast iron heads will out horse the un worked aluminum heads every time. Don't be leave it? do it yourself and find out.
    This makes no sense. The main reason to disassemble a quality set of assembled aluminum heads is to make sure they are completely clean before installation, metal shavings and so on.

    Saying you have to port a set of aluminum sbf heads to compete with a set "worked or cleaned up" stock sbf heads is asinine.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  5. #5

    Thumbs up iron vs aluminum

    When I had my 460 engine I used early 74cc small port heads, ported and polished to the max on the exhaust side and cleaned up on the intakes bigger valves, roller cam springs etc. I wanted more power so I replaced the iron heads with edelbrock aluminum heads same 75cc heads with small ports just like the iron heads. I did nothing to the heads but bolt them on the 460, I was very disappointed, I lost power instead of gaining power. After paying more than $1500.00 for the heads. I thought I did something wrong some how, when I put the al. heads on. I looked high and low found nothing, So off went the heads and on went the ported iron heads. The power came back as it was before, I called Edelbrock and explained what I did and they said I needed to clean up the valve pockets and intake and exhaust runners in order to out perform my ported iron heads. So I did clean up the ports and runners, it only took a couple hours time spent cleaning the al. heads up. I only needed a sanding roll on a small porting wheel to clean up the ports. no grinding stones needed, I put the al. heads back on the 460 with the matching dual plane Edelbrock intake and my 850 cfm Holley with a two inch spacer between the carb and manifold. I fired it up and took it around the block in my 1972 F-100 and I was shocked at the power difference that it made after the little clean up of the al. heads. It had a retro fit roller cam set up that cost me as much or more than the al. heads and al. intake combined. That's how I know that you have to clean up the ports or pay extra for CNC ported heads to out horse ported iron heads. I did another iron porting on a friends stock 302 heads and removed the hump in the exhaust. I mean I only smoothed out the rough ports and casting flash in the bowls and exhaust and intake ports. The least amount of porting I have ever done on Iron heads, had them machined for threaded 7/16ths rocker studs and Vinton valve seals, resurfaced and installed the matching valve springs for the cam he ordered. The little 302 was night and day quicker than before. in a 66 mustang and less than 3000 lbs. go figure He has a rare Shelby dual plane manifold on the mustang, said it came with it when he bought the car. I never knew that would be the case until I talked to Edelbrock tech, the tech guy said that's why they now sell heads that are CNC ported or pay less for the un touched aluminum. I learned a lot from this little mistake I made. Now if I had bolted on aluminum heads as came from ED. and replaced stock un ported iron heads then I would have never known that would have made that much of a difference. Because the asthmatic stock iron heads are pitiful with nothing done. AFR are the only heads I have seen that did not need port clean up on none CNC heads, they are hand blended from AFR before shipping. That's why they cost more than most Al. heads.
    Last edited by arless; 02-26-2014 at 10:02 AM. Reason: miss speld words

  6. #6

    Thumbs up

    I have had a stroke since my last post and have to hire everything to get my 302 warmed over like I want it to be. I should have bought headers the first idem to start my hop up. Oh my truck is not a ranger. It is a F-100 long bed single cab explorer custom. Looks like a show piece it's straight and factory orange paint with mag wheels and custom interior. And yes it weighs 3300 and some change pounds without me. Had it weighed at the recycle yard. My 1972 F-100 weighed 3794 pounds with me in it. Heavy all iron 460 weighs 720 lbs. Both the 72 and 76 are the lightest full size Fords made for the years that were early. still a 302's fighting weight is 3000 LBS or less to really run fast. I would love a 331 cubic inch 400 plus horsepower 302. The rings do not intersect the wrist pins like most 347's that are being built. Some use pistons with close ring lands that are more to the top of the piston and are not exposed to the wrist pins and cause premature failure when the oil rings warp and break blowing oil like a crop duster. With a piston that has close ring lands there is less chance for compressed air to get trapped between the rings causing detonation and early engine failure. With the 331 engine It is a high revving little beast that's only about 15 HP less than the 347 same with torque. Do your home work before buying a 347 I did. A early 302 engine is stronger than the late model roller engines. Most truck 302 engines are made in Mexico with thicker main saddles and buck heads wider main caps and most have cylinder bore thickness that could go 0.80 over standard, some not all Mexican 302's. I'm Fairley sure that my 302 is a Mexican made 302. Said early to mid 70's truck 302 engines are Mexican made. These engines weigh about 30 pounds more than a late model 5.0 liter engine. I would still use a main support girdle on any 302 331 347 with 375 or more Horsepower. From 6750 and on up the rpm scale the mains start to move around and will split the block if not supported. The new 5.0 cobra is 8 second factory mustang special order. I'd love to have the late 2014 boss 302 all aluminum four valve heads. The both engines are bullet proof. variable lift cams just to name a few, special dry sump oil pan and oiling system, fractured rod caps not cut like the old stuff. Over a $100,000 dollars for the special order cobra six speed mustang. I can't think of any car that is faster than the cobra Mustang. I'd give my left nut for one. nuff said
    Last edited by arless; 02-26-2014 at 11:37 AM.

  7. #7

    Default

    Since I last post on my 76 302 bolt owns I have a Ford HEI distributor to install on the 302, some of you may not like buying Chevy dist. and using it on a Ford. Came with a performance curve installed and the price was only $35.00 plus shipping on eBay, it is brand new I'd never buy a used dist. As most of you Ford guys know the stock ford Dura spark inaction is failure prone to say the least. Now I can take off the coil and inaction box and only need one wire hook up for the dist. to work. I have had a stroke and can not do any motor work any more, I have to hire everything done. I'm lucky to be alive, thank the Lord above for sparing my life. My next step should have been my first, headers I debating on 1 1/2 or 1 5/8ths primary tube truck long length headers. The 289 hypo only came with single exhaust in falcon and comet, not sure about Mustangs, I don't even know if equal length headers would be worth the extra $$$ for them at such a low HP 302 motor 300 HP is my goal later on. But with a 5% knock down on power 8.0:1 vs. 9.0:1 compression 285 HP would be more realistic. With either fully ported and 1.94 by 1.65 Chevy valves installed factory heads. Or some aluminum pro-comp or who ever has the cheapest Al. heads for purchase. Probably cost more for the iron head work than it would for Aluminum heads ready to bolt on. May have to save up for a pair. I do in fact see some pretty good size cams that will work with stock exhaust and two barrel carbs. Howards cams will let you know when you need a four barrel carb intake and headers and where you will need 9.0:1 and higher compression. Like I said they have some good size cams for stock 302 engines with stock exhaust and everything stock. Good stuff to know.

  8. #8

    Default

    C8VE, C9VE , and D0VE 460 heads a WAY better than SBF iron heads, not even worth a comparison. Even D3Ve heads can make real good power when ported.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  9. #9

    Default

    You have listed 460ci heads and comparing them to small block heads? DOVE heads 74cc are what I used and ported for my 460, I'm not sure what you are saying? Comparing flow numbers for big block to small block heads? The d3ve are larger I think 90 or 95 cc combustion chambers and work great will flat top pistons. all the other heads you post are small chamber 74 or 75cc combustion chambers, and work good with dish top pistons about 9.3:1 compression after machining the deck of the block to blue print specs and resurfacing the heads. Depending on the year of the block being used. The early 68 year blocks had a shorter deck height and squish was easy to get the piston .005 below the deck for maximum power potential. I used a 1974 block and it had to have quite a bit of decking to get it down to blue print specs. When it comes to big blocks I think the 428 FE super cobra jet with factory shaft mounted rocker arms is probably the best street engine ever made. Read Street engine, not street strip but street engine. That is my personal best BBF favorite. No mods needed start and go. Gas price rise is what kept me from building another street 460. The only reason I sold my 1972 F-100 460/500 plus HP at 6500 rpm. We decided to move to California, knowing there stick smog laws and knowing it would have to be towed to a drag strip the race was out of the question. Selling that truck still hurts when I think about it. I have kept in touch with the college student that bought my truck. He still owns it, and said he has had no problems what so ever with the engine or trans. I put it together in mid 1994 so 14 years old and driven everyday since he bought the truck, says a lot for Ford Engines. I paid $100.00 from the junk yard with a c-6 trans complete except carburetor. The engine when I took it apart, the oil pump was full of nylon timing chain sprocket. Was used to quite the chain noise. that timing set was all that had been done to the motor. It did not need to be bored over size, and everything is standard size.

  10. #10

    Default

    I some day would like to have a 331ci. or 347ci. from a 302 built, and cam it for torque A good little street engine. The 347 you have to be careful with the pistons they use, most use the low wide ring land rings, which expose the oil rings to the wrist pin to the oil and compression. Causing failure prematurely. "broken oil rings". Tuff Dowg engines sells both 331 and 347ci. SBF create engines, there pistons rings are high up on the pistons and also the ring spacing are closer together air gets trapt between the rings causing detonation and failure. With rings spaced higher and closer together. fix both problems. First no exposer to wrist pins and second no trapped compression air between the compression rings. Yes I have done my home work on both the 331 & 347ci. small blocks. 15 HP and 18 FT LBS torque difference between the two engines. The cost to build both engines cost the same. The 331 will rev higher and last longer because the crank and rods have less rotating mass to turn 3.250 VS. 3.40 stroke. Since I have a new Weiand 8124 action plus dual plane and a 600 CFM vacuum Holley plus a new HEI distributor. That's it so far for now, on a fixed income makes it hard to have some $$$ left over for my project. With my wife working she buys all the parts for the truck. My wife knew I had been wanting a old truck since forever, so she found and bought me this cheery looking 1976 F-100 explorer, custom truck. The previous owner must have loved the truck because it's the best looking truck around. All original how cool is that! and only 34000 miles on the clock, Had not been registered since 2004, but only had to pay for two years of registration. I had a black 1987 LX 5.0 Mustang automatic trans stock no mods. had the older speed density controlled instead of the 1988 and on mass air system. Which made it a little quicker than the later year models with automatic trans. Sold it for more $$ than I paid for it. That I regret doing also.

  11. #11

    Default

    You used your experiences with iron and aluminum 460 heads to say that ALL aluminum heads need "work", and that with a little work iron heads will make as much power.

    Originally Posted by arless View Post
    If I was going street/strip racing I'd love some AFR 165cc heads though. You have to clean up aluminum heads in order to out horse ported cast iron heads. You purchase at good set of aluminum heads and bolt them on as is, a pair of worked or cleaned up valve pockets cast iron heads will out horse the un worked aluminum heads every time. Don't be leave it? do it yourself and find out.

    I am saying that that does not hold true with SBF heads. Ported iron (non CJ) can be ported to make upwards of 700 hp, damn good for a stock ford head. IMO Stock SBF heads just don't have the flow to make real power with them, ported of not.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  12. #12

    Thumbs up 302 low compression build off 302.

    I love the 331 CID 302 and also the 347 if the right piston's are being used. "abet no oil rings exposed to the wrist pin's on the pistons" causing pre mature engine failure. Tuff dowg engines knows about the piston ring lands being exsposed to the wrist pins. And have done there home work. Since I have a new Weiand street warrior P/N 8124 wet flowed, and designed for todays larger engines and high flow heads and new cam profiles. Add a one inch spacer and you have a stealth high rise dual plane intake manifold. To me that's cool as a get out, with the height adjustment, from low riser to stealth high riser with a one inch spacer. They also sell the spacers that have the slightly open center divider just like the performer rpm intake. Weiand also sells the air gap style rpm intake as well for dual plane high riser intake. All from the stock dual plane Intake P/N 8124, sells for $156.00 with free shipping from Summit Racing catalogue. Three day turn around, ups delivery at the door on third day. That and a .0457s Holley 600 CFM vacuum secondary's calibrated for street performance, also a Chevy HEI distributor set up for Ford rotation with a 50,000 volt coil. need to get headers and dual exhaust. plus a Howards street cam designed for 8.0:1 compression ration motors.
    Last edited by arless; 03-22-2014 at 01:26 AM. Reason: miss spelled words

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •