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  1. #26
    FEP Member 8ballEinstein's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegallegroup View Post
    I used MonroeMatics, I think..it has been 2 years, so honestly don't recall, but they were "basic" OEM replacements purchased from O'Reilys or someplace like that.
    I never touched the Rear springs, and the ride height is almost exactly the same as it has always been. I have decent jounce at the rear when I push on the rear, so it seams like the everything would be ok, but when hitting expansion joints or uneven pavement, the rear feels like it is made of solid steel!!
    Strange....
    I'd be blaming those Monroe shocks.
    1985 Mustang GT - original short block w/ bolt-ons
    1995 Mustang GT - supercharged 331
    2007 Mustang BDX - (Barber Driving Experience) designed for daily driving and track use

  2. #27
    FEP Senior Member burntorange84's Avatar
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    Late to the party.. to the Org. poster... when you swapped in the 8.8, was it tightened loaded or hanging in the air? It needs to be tightened with the suspension fully loaded with the weight of the car. Otherwise all the joints are loaded and fighting movement that can ruin them in a hurry.

    -j
    _________________________________________
    1984.5 Mustang GT: org. 5.0, 5spd, 3.27's;
    GT-40's w/93 exhaust; t-bird TC brakes....

  3. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by burntorange84 View Post
    Late to the party.. to the Org. poster... when you swapped in the 8.8, was it tightened loaded or hanging in the air? It needs to be tightened with the suspension fully loaded with the weight of the car. Otherwise all the joints are loaded and fighting movement that can ruin them in a hurry.

    -j
    Figured out a good way to do this. Set your wheels down on cinder blocks. That way you can get under the car to tighten the bolts.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  4. #29

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    I would have to dig thru an old MM&FF to see if I can find the exact company it has been so long ago I don't know why I was thinking Pro .50, I think it was something 5.0 They do look exactly like the BBK upper and lowers. I believe the lowers and upper fronts are poly. I put oem rubber in the housing when I swapped the rear end. I did buy a set of quad shocks and upper mount brackets on ebay last night for $45 shipped . I will probably weld the mounts rather than try to drill. We will see if that has any effect on it.

    Mark

  5. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    Figured out a good way to do this. Set your wheels down on cinder blocks. That way you can get under the car to tighten the bolts.
    You can also just jack up the rear axle and support it on some jack stands, a little safer than relying on cinder blocks.

  6. #31
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by narvelle 1 View Post
    I would have to dig thru an old MM&FF to see if I can find the exact company it has been so long ago I don't know why I was thinking Pro .50, I think it was something 5.0 They do look exactly like the BBK upper and lowers. I believe the lowers and upper fronts are poly. I put oem rubber in the housing when I swapped the rear end. I did buy a set of quad shocks and upper mount brackets on ebay last night for $45 shipped . I will probably weld the mounts rather than try to drill. We will see if that has any effect on it.

    Mark
    No matter what company made the rear control arms, the poly bushings in the uppers and the poly at both ends of the lowers will cause the rear suspension to bind when cycling through it's range of travel. The better option is to remove the upper control arms completely and replace them with stock uppers with new rubber bushings. You need the upper arms to be able to twist and rotate as the suspension moves. Otherwise the suspension binds which is just like coil bind on a valve spring, essentially it becomes a solid mass. Obviously this does not help ride quality or handling.

    On the lower control arm, again poly at both ends does not allow the rear suspension to articulate they way it was designed and needs to. The best option is to purchase a quality set of lower control arms such as Maximum Motorsports units that use a special 3 piece urethane bushing at the chassis end and a spherical bearing on the axle end. If you don't go that route and use the standard lower control arms then a urethane bushing at the chassis side and stock rubber at the axle is the best option for improved handling, ride quality, and not causing binding issues.

    Unfortunately the tubular rear control arms have been pushed so much in the magazines and online for so long that many believe the hype and misinformation. In a suspension with parallel links or with only one set angled, the tubular arms and urethane bushings would improve the handling and not cause a major issue in ride quality. The opposing angles of the Fox rear suspension unfortunately do not work that way. The opposing angles was Ford's cheap way of locating the rear axle in the vehicle without the need for a panhard rod or watts linkage. Yes their design works in the OEM configuration. Once you push the suspension past the OEM limits and then try to increase it's limits with aftermarket parts, lowering springs, etc. you begin to see all the underlying faults and problems with the OEM design.

    Hope that helps!

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #32
    FEP Super Member onetrackrider's Avatar
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    What he (Trey) said
    Current rides:
    89 LX 5.0, 5 -spd..the Lemon
    86 RS Capri 5.0 Auto...
    86 LX Colorado SSP 5.0 5-spd (Sadly Sold)
    85.5 SVO, Finally Got Boost
    83 RS Capri 5.0, 5-spd (another sadly sold)

  8. #33

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    In swapping the springs the ride improved greatly. In which scenario you suggested, do you think would help stop the wheel hop? Is the wheel hop the far end of the spectrum of rough ride? When it starts a hoppin' it seems one side hooks and unloads the the other side and back and forth. At least I think that is what it feels like. It is kinda hard to tell when your eye teeth are getting rattled. I was thinking about setting my video camera up behind it and then slowing the footage down to see what is going on. It might not solve anything but might look cool, though it sure does not feel cool. I feel sorry for the car. It is a shame I can't act my age. Thanks for your interest!

    Mark

  9. #34
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The addition of the quad shocks will help with wheel hop in most 4 Eyed Foxes. But IMHO the control arm setup you have is contributing to the wheel hop and even with the addition of the quad shocks it will not be eliminated.

    If you are looking for improved ride quality on a mostly street car, then I would give my suggestion above a try. Replace the upper and lowers with good used OEM control arms with good bushings. If the bushings are shot, they need to be replaced. The lower control arms are the issue in that Ford only offered them as complete units and didn't service the bushings. You can replace the front busings with urethane for an improvement in handling if you choose, but you still want the rear bushing to be rubber. Both uppers need to be rubber bushings which are available from Rock Auto and others.

    If you want to improve the ride and the handling then a set of Maximum Motorsports rear lower control arms will do the trick. They will allow the suspension to articulate as needed, but will reduce the slop that is there with the stock rubber bushings. Again keep the stock uppers with good bushings.

    Honestly just swapping your tubular uppers for a set of stock uppers with good bushings will most likely show an improvement. Although the lowers with the poly at both ends will still cause some binding and possible wheel hop issues.

    Good Luck!

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  10. #35

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    Yesterday I took off the boxed upper rear control arms and replaced them with some stock ones I found on Ebay. They came from MPW they were used, but they had been shotpeened. It did not say they put new bushings in them but they sure looked new to me. Sixty bucks shipped. I painted them with some POR 15.

    I am really liking this paying for parts I threw away before.

    It was a simple operation. I did not even jack the car up. So now it has rubber bushings on axle and uppers. Lowers are boxed with poly.

    Being a little squeamish about letting it loose again, not wanting go thru the violent wheel hop again, I would say that the change eliminated about 75% of the wheelhop at throttle stab and a stout second shift. I think I will wait to get the quads put on before I dump the clutch. Just have to weld the brackets on.

    And thanks to the poster who provided the measurement for the bracket location in another thread.

    Thanks All,

    Mark

  11. #36
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    Ford bolted the upper bracket onto the frame rail.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1981 Black Magic 400 c6
    93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

  12. #37

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    My Capri is a 1979 so I don't believe the holes are there, it would certainly make it simpler if they are. I never did like welding that close to the gas tank. I remember when I bought the boxed control arms cuz the stock ones would have needed new bushings anyhow. It is always fun to put new stuff on. Who knew that I would get to do it again !!



    Mark

  13. #38
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    Most people just drill the holes and bolt the mounts on. If you want to make sure the frame rails don't collapse when you tighten the bolts, drill the holes the size you need, get some pipe or tubing large enough for the bolts to go through, drill the holes on the outside of the frame rail large enough to insert the tubing in and weld the tubes in place.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1981 Black Magic 400 c6
    93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

  14. #39

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    Are the frame rails that thin that you could collapse them ? Will drilling holes weaken it even if some tubes were welded in? Has anyone had a problem with egging the holes out? Is there a lot of stress on these mounts? Sorry for all of the questions.

    Thanks, Mark

  15. #40
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Yes, the frame rails are that thin. They are just stamped sheet metal. As for the stress, that depends on how you drive and how hard you launch the car.

    Unfortunately to install the quad shocks on a car without them is a bit of a PITA. The best way to do it, is as suggested by drilling the hole on one side oversize and sliding a crush tube inside to prevent the frame rails from collapsing when you tighten everything up. This also prevents the bolts from becoming loose for the same reasons. I have found it easier to drop the fuel tank to allow access to both sides and to make the drilling easier and safer. Again the whole process is a PITA, but it's not difficult or a challenging job overall.

    You can weld the tubes and the bolts in if you wish or you can just tighten them up and they will be fine. A little Loctite doesn't hurt either.

    Good Luck!

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  16. #41

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    Yesterday I welded the quad shock brackets on the car and put the shocks on. It seemed that just rollong out of my buddies driveway that it felt different. It was hard to describe. They seemed to eliminate the wheel hop. I still have not given it the acid test of dropping the hammer, but first gear stab and it just took off. Another buddy was following me on his bike, he thought he saw a little hop on the second gear shift, but I did not feel it. It just seemed to kick out to the left ever so slightly. It was a" Oh Yeah!" moment.
    It seemed to ride a lot smoother also.

    The quads were used off of ebay. One was not as good as the other so I will order up some new ones now that the frame mounts are on. Hopefully this
    ends my wheelhop and I can move forward to some other part of the car. I could not plan to fix anything else untill the hop was gone.

    So in the quad shock debate, it worked for me.


    Thanks, Mark

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