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  1. #51

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    I don't recall if they're out where you are but here in Southern Cal Pep Boys carries the black plastic vacuum line. Mr. Cook's suggestion works also which is what some mechanic did on my '78 Fairmont 2dr sedan. The problem was this "mechanic" didn't bother to install the check valve and didn't check to see if the line to the vacuum ball held vacuum. I kept losing my power vent air (diverted to defrost) every time I accelerated. It was rather annoying and the car idled so much better once I had fixed the vacuum line and lack of check valve by stealing the parts from my '82 Cougar wagon (I'll get the Cougar straighten out when I get to that point in its resurrection).
    Proud owner of the one and only Friggin' Futura

  2. #52
    FEP Senior Member 4EYED85's Avatar
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    Mar 2012
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    Any updates?

  3. #53

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    Awaiting switch delivery and I will give full coverage when I install it!


    Sean
    Light Regatta Blue 1986 Mustang GT 5sp - bone stock....block and rotating assembly.

  4. #54

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    Got the switch in, installed, and how HI is the only setting that works. This points to resistor, yes? Because HI doesn't go through any resistors and the Med-Low settings do?

    Getting closer. HI-only heat is better than no heat, lol.
    Light Regatta Blue 1986 Mustang GT 5sp - bone stock....block and rotating assembly.

  5. #55

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    I would think so. Did you put an Ohm meter on the resistor and wiring circuit to see what kind of resistances you have? Have you checked the wiring to the resistor to see they're okay? I noticed you switch plug looked a little melted. You're fortunate the switch doesn't melt on the Four Eyes like they do on the Aero horror Mustangs. I couldn't use the fan for too long on my '89 before it melted the switch and it really stinks! I've noticed other Aero Mustangs with melted fan switches at the wrecking yards when I was hunting for a replacement fan switch for that car.
    Proud owner of the one and only Friggin' Futura

  6. #56

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    When I check for resistance am I basically checking it from the orange/black wire through each of the other wires that goes through the resistors? Yeah the plug was a little melted, thankfully a little push with a needle nose got the ground pin firmly on the new switch!


    Sean
    Light Regatta Blue 1986 Mustang GT 5sp - bone stock....block and rotating assembly.

  7. #57

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    If the fan only works on HI, the problem is most likely the last resistor in the chain, or the thermal
    fuse on the resistor assembly has blown.

    The orange/black wire has 3 resistor elements plus the thermal fuse between it and ground.
    The light green/white wire has 2 resistor elements plus the thermal fuse between it and ground.
    The yellow/red wire has 1 resistor element plus the thermal fuse between it and ground.

    If you remove the resistor assembly, a bad resistor element will be visibly broken, but the thermal
    fuse would have to be verified with a meter.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  8. #58

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    Will check it this weekend.

    My Kirban AFPR is supposed to arrive today, so that's the first order of business. Then grounding my thermal switch for my low electric fan setting. I was wondering why it wasn't kicking on at 185 degrees and then my pops pointed out that the rubber hose innovation I created for both my temperature sensors was RUBBER and not grounded, which of course was not mentioned in the directions for the thermal switch because it's traditionally threaded into the intake and grounded through contact that way! It was quite a DOH! moment.
    Light Regatta Blue 1986 Mustang GT 5sp - bone stock....block and rotating assembly.

  9. #59

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    Quote Originally Posted by rock4451 View Post
    When digging around in the 86 electrical and vacuum pages, I found this, and the wire colors match the colors going to my resistor Exactly.

    Why does my resistor assembly have the wire colors of the above page, but this page shows resistor wires should be different, which is out of the same book:

    Guys what manual is this and how do I obtain an 82 and 85 version? The "library" here seems to have random stuff.
    65 Fastback 302/T5
    82 Mustang GT
    84 Mustang Predator GT302H 4S-119

  10. #60

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    Those pages are from the Ford "Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual", aka EVTM. The
    manuals are specific to the year and model. There are separate manuals for Fairmont/Zephyr,
    Mustang/Capri, Thunderbird/Cougar etc.

    Easiest place to find them is Ebay, and if you shop around a bit, you can often find them in nice
    shape for a reasonable price.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  11. #61

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    Excellent got 82 & 85 for $35. Any other recommendations as far as electrical & vacuum systems? I want to do an AC conversion on my 82 and my 85. The 82 is a non-AC car and the 85 is a hacked up AC car with non AC components. *sigh*
    65 Fastback 302/T5
    82 Mustang GT
    84 Mustang Predator GT302H 4S-119

  12. #62

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    '82 used essentially the same orifice tube style A/C system as '85, so apart from differences in the
    control head, and compressor clutch wiring, whatever you do with one, you should be able to do
    with both.

    The main difference in the compressor clutch wiring is because '82 did not have a TSAD module,
    WOT cutout switch, or clutch relay. For the differences between the control panels, go here:
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ar-Differences
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  13. #63

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    Wire colors on the 86 gets confusing on some. My 86 was actually manufactured 8/85 and has some wire colors that match the 85 others that match the 86 schematic. It gets damn confusing sometimes. My car came with factory ac and my blower resistor looks a little different than the one you have pictured, but doesn't mean it is the wrong one. Design change happens during manufacture. If you are getting a voltage drop at the resistor then it is probably at the blower switch.

  14. #64

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    HI All I need help 84 has factory ac
    I have power at fuse location 9 its a 30 amp it is good I have a NEW blower motor new resistor from LMR I have a New blower switch. I have no power to the blower motor or resistor. only power I see is power for rear defrost switch power at the lights that light up the hvac panel I have power at the white with red strip on the hvac plate believe is more light its in the top plug has a red plastic plug is straight across like in a line. I have console out have power in all there plug for back of console all are white with red tracer I believe. I have no I dea what's going on I order a New ignition switch seen that could be it. I would take ANY AND ALL HELP Please!!!

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