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Thread: Trailer hitch

  1. #76
    FEP Power Member Mikestang's Avatar
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    Thanks, it works very well
    1986 Ford Mustang GT-

    Not much stock stuff left
    347 NA power, CNC ported heads, Extrude honed Trick Flow Intake, Custom Cam
    Suspension, custom k- member, TQ arm/pan hard rod... Much more
    Restored and ready to race, made to go fast while cornering

    1981 Mustang GT-

    Old SCCA A-Sedan National Champ car
    In the middle of rebuild

    1986 LX Sedan-

    Plans to be determined...

    "Every day I learn how much I don't know"

  2. #77
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    I see how it all goes together.

    I'm looking at low load, but I do like the tie in and seclusion of the Piper motorsportt system.


    I'm only running low loads conversent witha 1977 Ford Cortina Six, but the whole tied into the frame rails tow bar system system is where I want to head. The benchmark I'm using is the kilogram loads used for a similar wheelbase, size and weight C/D class car, what the Jack Talenack based the Fox platform on was more the Cortina/European Granada in Opel Record/Commodore/Monza size, practically a direct copy. Loading wise, all Cortina/Tanuis/Commodores were total failures under Austrlain type loads, but that's why the Aussies limited the tow hitch ratings like the following.






  3. #78
    FEP Power Member Mikestang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Claflin View Post
    Nice looking set up, good job.

    For anyone else with an old 4-eyed car, I used that hitch linked to earlier and a hitch hauler to carry drag tires to the track.
    Nice. I originally though of doing that but it would have sat too low, I was worried about it hitting. I also needed 4 tires and a jack and tools... ect.... if I only had a truck and trailer...
    1986 Ford Mustang GT-

    Not much stock stuff left
    347 NA power, CNC ported heads, Extrude honed Trick Flow Intake, Custom Cam
    Suspension, custom k- member, TQ arm/pan hard rod... Much more
    Restored and ready to race, made to go fast while cornering

    1981 Mustang GT-

    Old SCCA A-Sedan National Champ car
    In the middle of rebuild

    1986 LX Sedan-

    Plans to be determined...

    "Every day I learn how much I don't know"

  4. #79
    FEP Senior Member edman1000's Avatar
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    Ok, Here's another spin... how'd you guys wire in your trailer lights w/o hacking up the harness?
    - Ed

    '85 Capri RS - "1BADMERC" -'00 GT40P motor & heads, Edelbrock RPM/Holley 650, E303 cam, full length BBK ceramics,5spd/flowmaster 2-chambers/373's
    5 Lug conversion, cobra discs on all four corners, 1" drop

    My cowl hood thread:

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=131334

  5. #80
    FEP Member jws4621's Avatar
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    How my hitch and trailer turned out

    84 Mustang GT
    95 F150
    98 Ranger
    12 Escape
    94 Mustang Cobra

  6. #81
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edman1000 View Post
    Ok, Here's another spin... how'd you guys wire in your trailer lights w/o hacking up the harness?


    edman1000

    My Mustang has European tail lights with amber turn indicators, but the wiring is the same.

    The seven pin block connector type trailer hitch just needs the (1) brown, (2) red, (3) green, (4) yellow and (5) black (or White on the trailer earth) to be spliced into the line to one side of the tail lights. I use a pin, earth the trailer black wire to the shell at the back, and then use the brown, red, green, yellow wires with a pin or mamas sewing needel to source the blinkers, the back up lights, the pilot lights, and, after putting a nice block of 1 by 4 or granpas stick on the brake connected to the seat, Ican then check brake light operation.

    Then I use a block connector with enough slots to link it all together.,
    If you use eternal wire crimps you can leave the wring stock standard without cutting it, and supply power to the block conector.

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    Normal 7 pin convention pinouts from 1 to 7, are


    Peg 1 "Signal Left" Left 1 = Yellow,
    Peg 6 "Brake" Left 2 = Brown (sometimes swapped with Peg 7, Red)
    Peg 5 "Service" Left 3 = Nothing
    Peg 3 "Earth" Middle 4= White or Black (The earth for Trailer is white, or Black on the Car end)
    Peg 2 "Auxilary/Reverse" Right 5= Nothing
    Peg 7 "Tail" Right 6= Red (sometimes swapped with Peg 6, Brown)
    Peg 4 "Signal Right" Right 7 = Green

    Peg 5 and Peg 7 are for back-up/reversing lights, and as the reversing lights are not required here on New Zealand trailers made befroe 1995, I use my trailer hitch cable for data control, the spare Pins Left 3 and Right 5 plugs come in handy for my load sensors.

    The Signal Left and Signal Right are Green with Brown Stripe and Red with a Brown Stripe.
    Fox body Green with Brown Stripe ----> Tailer Peg 1 Yellow wire
    Fox body Red with Brown Stripe ----> Trailer Peg 4 Green wire
    Fox body brake lights have Green Wire with Brown Stripe both sides, but the left one is dual feed, anyone will do, and it goes to Peg 6, the Brake.


    I used a six prong chocklate block conector to link the factory wiring loom to Peg 1, 4, 3, 6 and 7 from the drivers side rear.


    Signal Left on the drivers side rear to Yellow Peg 1
    Signal Right on the passenger side can be accessed by cutting into thecross over to passenger side rear wireloomb. The drivers side rear to Yellow is Peg 4
    Earth the trailer to the body via a spademouth; since each bulb (brake, indicator, backup) is earthed separately on the plastic tailamp, your stuck with finding an earth to the body. New body earth is white to Peg 3
    The same side, the Green with Brown stripe to Brown Peg 6.
    The other Green with Brown stripe to the Trailer Peg 7 Red "Tail" wire.


    As for the other stuff above, well, Nice stuff David.

    Who needs a trailer anyway?

    I found an old post on a trailer hitched 1983 T roof GT 5.0. Lookes like the wheel well mount type, although I can't be sure.




    Quote Originally Posted by dburdyshaw View Post
    I just remembered that, way back in February and March 2008, this car was for sale and I jumped out of my car to take some quick pics of it. It seems like someone on our 'site here was interested in it and I went back for a few more pics.

    http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...rFrontQtr2.jpg

    http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...HoodScoop2.jpg

    http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...rSaleSign2.jpg

    http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...stangRear2.jpg

    http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...erRearQtr2.jpg

    http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...tangFront2.jpg

  7. #82

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikestang View Post


    looks great. I have run a hitch on all my mustangs and cobras. A small harbor freight trailer and super easy way to get all your gear to the track

  8. #83
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edman1000 View Post
    Ok, Here's another spin... how'd you guys wire in your trailer lights w/o hacking up the harness?
    My car is a JPN Export car with ZJ 1979-1984 Ford Fairlane (Australian) tailights blended in, along with JDM repeater lights in the front quarters. I've seen a Spanish Market 80 Notch with these tail lights, but I'm pretty sure the wiring is as per US Fox bodies, though.

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    I did my wire-up in an hour, with two chockolate block connectors

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    I accessed everything from the drivers side rear, running the external 7 pin from the drivers side under pumper to the holes in the passenger side rear, then to the drivers side rear. I had to drill no holes.

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    "Signal Left" on the drivers side rear to Yellow Peg 1. The source wire is Green with Brown sttripe. Cut and bare each end, then splice the Yellow in.
    The "Brake", same side, the source solid Green' cut and bare each end, then splicewith to Brown Peg 6.



    There is what lookes to be a small diameter Brown with Silver stripe wire, which heads to the passenger side rear. I cut and bared this, and linked it to "Tail" Right 6. Then there is the nice Red with Blue stripe, cut and bared to connect with the Peg 4 "Signal Right" Right 7 = Green

    (Signal Right on the passenger side can be accessed by cutting into the cross over to passenger side rear wire loomb. The drivers side rear to Yellow is Peg 4)


    NB//Earth the trailer to the body via a spademouth; since each bulb (brake, indicator, backup) is earthed separately on the plastic tailamp, your stuck with finding an earth to the body. New body earth is white to Peg 3

    The other Green with Brown stripe to the Trailer Peg 7 Red "Tail" wire.

  9. #84
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    My set up was especially easy, but for one thing.


    The drivers side chassis rail and bumper horn is not symetrical or handed. Its its own shape, offset from parallel by about 5 degress, so that creates about 1/2 " of irregular custom fitting. The frame hasn't been bent, its site permanent reference marks are all good. Its just stamping variances.

    The end plates center spacing from frame rail to frame rail ended up being splayed from the design 40-1/4" to a non perpendicular splay.
    I decided to use both frame brackets cut from 1/4" plate, and add some strips of 1/8" to some M14 bolts (22mm head).
    That resulted in me having to trial fit the parts again and again.

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    The arc welder and Igot a good work out

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    It took ages and I still have to pull the whole lot out and get the welding and design certified.

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    The 2" square tube was bent in a 20 Ton press to get the dip angle right for the tow hitch to come out low enough.

  10. #85
    FEP Power Member Mikestang's Avatar
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    Who certifies it? I had to have my "home made" trailer certified... what a joke that was. I'll put it this way, the lights worked so it passed.
    1986 Ford Mustang GT-

    Not much stock stuff left
    347 NA power, CNC ported heads, Extrude honed Trick Flow Intake, Custom Cam
    Suspension, custom k- member, TQ arm/pan hard rod... Much more
    Restored and ready to race, made to go fast while cornering

    1981 Mustang GT-

    Old SCCA A-Sedan National Champ car
    In the middle of rebuild

    1986 LX Sedan-

    Plans to be determined...

    "Every day I learn how much I don't know"

  11. #86
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Non standard, non factory tow hitch. each inspection, everything non standard with out an engieering sign off has to be certified for design and wleding, so that the heat effected zones aren't siuspect, and that it has an engieering number and placard on it if its not a standard US Factroy Ford part.


    Same for everyone one with a homebuilt trailer or a trailer hitch draw bar. If it falls off, or gets run into and there's any skiff of liabilty grey area, there's civil damages, and no insurance from my insurance company....

    aH Gotta love NZ

  12. #87
    FEP Power Member Mikestang's Avatar
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    Did you pre submit a design? Hope it all goes well for Ya.
    1986 Ford Mustang GT-

    Not much stock stuff left
    347 NA power, CNC ported heads, Extrude honed Trick Flow Intake, Custom Cam
    Suspension, custom k- member, TQ arm/pan hard rod... Much more
    Restored and ready to race, made to go fast while cornering

    1981 Mustang GT-

    Old SCCA A-Sedan National Champ car
    In the middle of rebuild

    1986 LX Sedan-

    Plans to be determined...

    "Every day I learn how much I don't know"

  13. #88
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Yeah, its bascially an E54 1987 Mitsubishi Galant tow bar like my sons old car, with special Mustang Fox endplates. There's nothing much to it, asside from catering for the frame rails.

    I might end up doing just what you did, opening ending the 2 inch section, and external welding. The transport engineers here are pretty good, but Kiwis do a lot of modifications to there cars, so the engineers are restrictive to reduce there risks.

    I'll tell you how I get on.

  14. #89

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    Had one on my 84 , my grandpa had on it back in the day i cut it off first day i got it. Can't remember where he had it welded on at its been 17 years.

  15. #90
    FEP Member Hans's Avatar
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    Default Picture of trailer hitch on 79 mustang.

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    Hi,
    a picture of a 79 mustang offered for sale. With trailer hitch.

    We tend to pull caravans with our passenger cars.
    There are 442.029 caravans on a population of 17 million people. And virtually no-one owns a truck.

    My Ford Mondeo with 2 liter engine may pull 1800kgs/3968lbs.

    I believe back in the day a mustang was allowed 1000/ 1100 kgs or 2200/2425lbs.
    I'm trying to get in contact with someone with a registered pull weight in the papers of their 79-82 mustang. To copy it and show the government to get it added on my registration too.
    Otherwise I need Ford to give that information. But I don't know who or where to ask. In 79 Mustangs weren't sold here by Ford.

    I'd love to use my mustang to pull my caravan on holidays in the future.

    Regards,
    Hans.

  16. #91
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    There is a kit available in most auto parts stores to adapt the 5 light stop/signal to three on a trailer. Had one on my 86 years ago. Pulled a crashed 79 Grand Prix on a front bumper A-arm. The ol 5.0L forgot it was there in 5th even going up big hills at 70. That was with the 79 being full of parts and tools and weighing around 5500 lbs. biggest problem was stopping- and that sucked.

  17. #92
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Hans
    Thats outside Environmental Services Law Enforcement in Groningen...the first noted European discoverer of our country Abel Janszoon Tasman, was from your town. You commute though...your not from Lutjegast, by chance.


    Like you guys, Kiwis love trailer hitched Caravans, and propane too

    Have you had success with the American Impco CA 425 conversion?

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Edelbrock Perfromer suits the 4150 flange, and is a good choice. The Impco 425 should 'just' fit okay. I've used Impco CA 300's in the past, they are taller than the ca 425, but the A5 CA 300 flows 432 cfm, not far off the 460 cfm your CA 425 puts out.

    I'd reconsider using a CA 300 on a 2150 base, like on my old Australian Falcon 250 six.

    See http://kastang.tripod.com/fsp/xecute.html, specifically the carb on http://kastang.tripod.com/fsp/xecute/XECarbImpco.jpg

    Jay Storers Propane Performance book shows a 1981 4.2 turbo with CA 425. Ak Millar used a stock Ford marine intake manifold.

  18. #93
    FEP Member Hans's Avatar
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    xctasy, sorry for late reply. I was on vacation.

    That's not my car, just a picture of an add to show the hitch I'd like to add on my 79 stang.
    I'm from Ede, no famous people here

    There are some parallels between Kiwis and us Cheeseheads apparently. Eventhough we are on the opposite side of the globe.

    Impco 425 runs well. Put an Edelbrock RPM AirGap intake on, then the CA425 and the original Ford airfilter housing on top of that with a spacer inbetween.
    It clears the hood barely but enough, after I replaced the wingnut with a hexagon capscrew.
    Will shoot some pictures during day time.

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