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  1. #51
    Mike1157
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    Quote Originally Posted by fairmont city View Post
    love your car/build will be watching closely. What led me to this build is info on non ford ign/fuel injection on oddball 6 cyl builds such as yours and possibly mine (1984 ltd with 2001/04 3.8 ) .
    That's me. About as oddball as I can get. Australian headed, turbocharged US inline six cylinder, w/ home made intake and exhaust manifolds, DIS on an engine that didn't come that way, fueled w/ a kit built megasquirt, with a manually shifted 4R70W.

    Even more odd ball, I'm contemplating grafting an 84 LTD front end on mine, possibly retrofitting the tail lights as well.

    I'm all over the place.
    Last edited by Mike1157; 01-07-2014 at 06:09 PM.

  2. #52
    FEP Power Member bridgener's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1157 View Post
    That's me. About as oddball as I can get. Australian headed, turbocharged US inline six cylinder, w/ home made intake and exhaust manifolds, DIS on an engine that didn't come that way, fueled w/ a kit built megasquirt, with a manually shifted 4R70W.

    Even more odd ball, I'm contemplating grafting an 84 LTD front end on mine, possibly retrofitting the tail lights as well.

    I'm all over the place.
    I love this build because it makes me think! Definitely not your standard job.

    Is DIS direct injection system? If so, you're going to have to modify the head to plumb it?
    I didn't really pick up on the crossflow head when you first mentioned it. I guess the name is referring to the intake and exhaust ports being on opposite sides? Never really thought about it until now, but the intake and exhaust on the I6 in my dad's Austin Healey 3000 are both on the same side. I'm not really sure why they did that. Seems like a recipe for hot fuel, even though there is a heat shield...

    Carry on lol
    Brian

    1982 Capri 5.0L
    1965 Fastback project car - more rusty than not

  3. #53
    Mike1157
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    Quote Originally Posted by bridgener View Post
    I love this build because it makes me think! Definitely not your standard job.

    Is DIS direct injection system? If so, you're going to have to modify the head to plumb it?
    I didn't really pick up on the crossflow head when you first mentioned it. I guess the name is referring to the intake and exhaust ports being on opposite sides? Never really thought about it until now, but the intake and exhaust on the I6 in my dad's Austin Healey 3000 are both on the same side. I'm not really sure why they did that. Seems like a recipe for hot fuel, even though there is a heat shield...

    Carry on lol
    Distributorless Ignition System. Gonna use Fords' DIS 6 off of some late 90's donor. The Megasquirt is compatible w/ it, and it lets me get rid of the stupid distributor that will be a problem specifically because there will be an intake on that side of the engine where there once was none.
    The US cast iron head is the same way as most other I6's, w/ the exhaust and intake cast on the same side of the head. I planned to use it until I came unto the Aussie head. I agree w/ you, the stock US "one sided" design is a poor concept at best. I was really struggling w/ that concept. Had I used the stock head, I planned to route the exhaust over to the driver side, and mount the turbo there, so I wouldn't have that mega hot, glowing chunk of cast iron directly below, or right next to the intake.

    I still may end up using the damn thing if there is something wrong w/ the crossflow head. You cannot get aftermarket stainless valves for the thing, and the one I have has two bent stockers. The intake is soo long, that only a BBC valve can be substituted, ( A BBC exhaust valve for the Crossflow intake at that). Even then, I'm gonna have to have the machine shop turn down the 1.880" Chevy size down to the 1.8" Ford size, just to get it to fit. There isn't enough material around the valve seat to safely cut it any bigger than that, so I cannot use the stock size 1.880 w/o risk of cutting into water. The BBC valve stem is 3/8 (.375), the stock valve stem measures .333. I will have to have the guides reamed to that size as well.

    All that, coupled to the major mangulation I have to do to the block to allow for the extra pushrod travel due to the canted valve design, having to add extra material on both sides of the block via JB weld to allow for that, and the crossflow water passages that are not on the block. And lastly, having to source a flat tappet camshaft from Australia because the Aussie head puts the valves in a different order than the stocker.

    All in a days' life when you decide to build a wonky, oddball, combo for the sake of keeping it all Ford I guess. Hopefully on the day it sits on the chassis dyno and cranks out the number I'm hoping for, it'll all be worth it.
    Last edited by Mike1157; 01-08-2014 at 08:52 AM.

  4. #54

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1157 View Post
    Distributorless Ignition System. Gonna use Fords' DIS 6 off of some late 90's donor. The Megasquirt is compatible w/ it, and it lets me get rid of the stupid distributor that will be a problem specifically because there will be an intake on that side of the engine where there once was none.
    The US cast iron head is the same way as most other I6's, w/ the exhaust and intake cast on the same side of the head. I planned to use it until I came unto the Aussie head. I agree w/ you, the stock US "one sided" design is a poor concept at best. I was really struggling w/ that concept. Had I used the stock head, I planned to route the exhaust over to the driver side, and mount the turbo there, so I wouldn't have that mega hot, glowing chunk of cast iron directly below, or right next to the intake.

    I still may end up using the damn thing if there is something wrong w/ the crossflow head. You cannot get aftermarket stainless valves for the thing, and the one I have has two bent stockers. The intake is soo long, that only a BBC valve can be substituted, ( A BBC exhaust valve for the Crossflow intake at that). Even then, I'm gonna have to have the machine shop turn down the 1.880" Chevy size down to the 1.8" Ford size, just to get it to fit. There isn't enough material around the valve seat to safely cut it any bigger than that, so I cannot use the stock size 1.880 w/o risk of cutting into water. The BBC valve stem is 3/8 (.375), the stock valve stem measures .333. I will have to have the guides reamed to that size as well.

    All that, coupled to the major mangulation I have to do to the block to allow for the extra pushrod travel due to the canted valve design, having to add extra material on both sides of the block via JB weld to allow for that, and the crossflow water passages that are not on the block. And lastly, having to source a flat tappet camshaft from Australia because the Aussie head puts the valves in a different order than the stocker.

    All in a days' life when you decide to build a wonky, oddball, combo for the sake of keeping it all Ford I guess. Hopefully on the day it sits on the chassis dyno and cranks out the number I'm hoping for, it'll all be worth it.
    Rock on player rock on - it will all be worth it in the end.
    1984 Mustang LX
    302, Holley 4bbl 600 vac sec
    B&M C4 R servo
    Shorty Headers
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    Scorpion Roller Rockers 1.6
    Crower Cam 472 112 seperation
    Chetah Shifter
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    Carter Electronic Fuel Pump
    Accel Eletronic Dizzy

  5. #55
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    Curious- I may have missed it. Are you going injected or carbed turbo? I see you are using a megasquirt, so I am thinking injection.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  6. #56
    Mike1157
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    Quote Originally Posted by brianj View Post
    Curious- I may have missed it. Are you going injected or carbed turbo? I see you are using a megasquirt, so I am thinking injection.
    MPFI. 60lb injectors. custom intake made out of mild steel w/ a 70mm TB on the business end. If the manifold turns out like I have seen it in my head, it should look like some derivative of some jap-o-pean design.

  7. #57
    Mike1157
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    JEESUS!!!:fuss:

    At this rate I shoud be done w/ the car sometime in 2015.

    Seems like every time I plan to get alot done anymore, my plan is so shortsighted, that I always leave the garage w/ the plan woefully "incomplete".

    I decided to complete my minitubs. I have already completed one side, but wasn't all warm and fuzzy about how it came out, so I decided to do the passenger side the way it shoulda been done in the first place.

    Obviously, the start point is the butchery required to get the old tub out:
    Typically I use a cut off wheel, and a sawzall to do this. I start by making reference cuts along the inner wheel tub edge:
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    I cut the support structure free at the front and rear of the tub

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    Once referenced and free'd up, I whip out the sawzall and connect the dots. Eventually, the old tub is on the floor.
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    Now I'm gonna bounce around from right to left, because I didn't duplicate both side pics tit for tat, so don't rag me for not keeping it all lefty loosey, righty tighty.

    Once free of the tub, you now have a big assed gaping hole where the old tub used to be.
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  8. #58
    Mike1157
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    I don't have to tell you that this is what all the support structure looks like before the carnage. The upper shock mount reinforcement, the upper spring perch, and the axle snubber mount.
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    There really isn't a lot of room to move the inner tub over where the increased width potential isn't cancelled out by the fact that the frame rails in a fox aren't straight. The rear most portion of the frame rail is significantly wider than the front, and limits the actual potential gain to about 2.5". Since I intend to use a 315 x 17 wheel, the stock tub was almost wide enough, but to be safe, and to give me the room to put the tire way up inside the tub, 2.5" is really all I was needing.

    I slid the sectioned tub up in place, moved it over 1.5", and put the tire up there to check clearance:
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    This was all I had for inside clearance:


    I was gonna need all I could get, so I wiped the frame rail clean. After about an hour of drilling out spot welds, cutting, and grinding, I had a completely clean frame rail.
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    After getting both sides to look like this I was ready to put the thing back together.
    Earlier in this thread, I made the necessary modifications to allow for coil over shocks, the upper mount bugged me. It was gonna stick too far inboard of the inner tub, so I decided to modify it.
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    My friends call me "Do it twice Mike", because it always seems I second guess myself, and do stuff over again. The version above was probably more than adequate to support the load, I just wanted to shorten it up, and at the same time increase the strength, and leave me the ability to finish it where it'll look decent. I came up with this goofy assed solution:

  9. #59
    Mike1157
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    First it required I cut away the inboard leg of the mount.
    Then I made the new reinforcement out of 3/16" bar stock, bent in a semi-circle to match the semi-circle beneath that was welded to the frame.
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    Whether or not this solution is any stronger than "plan A", it will allow me to cap it w/ a dome type cover that'll look a little less home made. Since the whole tub was out, there was no better time to do it. One things for sure,....there'll be no plan C version of this. This is it.
    Next I moved on to prepping the tub. It was covered in undercoating, seam sealer, and glue.
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    And there was all of that old metal that had to be cut free:
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    I use a 4.5" cut off wheel to do this. I just follow the old metal seam, and cut the old mating surface clean away. After that's done, I strip the rest of the funk off of the exterior of the tub. It's best that this is done while its out, it's way easier.
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    The underside was more of a challenge.After just stripping the 1/2-3/4" that ran around the perimeter of this tub, there's no way in hell I'm completely stripping it all. It's still bonded to the inside like day one, and even w/ heat, and a stiff wire wheel running at 20,000 RPM, the stuff didn't want to come off.

    So I'm leaving the rest.
    Last edited by Mike1157; 01-13-2014 at 11:07 PM.

  10. #60
    Mike1157
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    Next, I prepped the inner wheel lip:
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    This is prep that you will thank yourself for later if you do it now. It is galvanized, thin metal w/ all kinds of undercoating/seam sealer just begging to foul your welds. Do it now, you can thank me later.
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    This^^^
    This is the underside of the tub. Just like the inner, it needs to have the undercoating stripped so it won't catch on fire when you weld in the new section. This is an enormous mess, and there is NOTHING that makes it less so. I used a stiff wire wheel mounted on an angle grinder and a mapp gas torch to heat it up. It just throws junk everywhere, be sure to use a respirator, ( You know I didn't.)
    I used a 3" wide piece of 18 ga. mild steel as a spacer to move the tub in board. Since there'll never be a better opportunity to make sure it's really tightly mated to the inner lip, I welded this first. I used a combination of clamps, and vise grips to hold the thing in place, w/ clamps located about every 4". I welded it completely along the inner cut line till I got to the top of the arch, where i couldn't get my weld gun in place to weld it anymore. After making a giant mess of the top of the arch, I called it a night.
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    This is what I'm talking about w/ regard to prep. Up until I got to the top, the welding was going along beautifully. But after an entire day spent to get this far, I had no patience to go farther after the disaster at the top of the arch, All I can say, is good thing these things are gonna be covered in sound deadener.:nonono:

  11. #61

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    Mike, you are doing some really amazing work on your car, but to me the most interesting part of your project is the engine! That aussie head looks great. What a find. What was the original application for that? Was it a stock piece, or a Ford Motorsport over-the-counter item?

  12. #62
    Mike1157
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    Quote Originally Posted by jalapeñored View Post
    Mike, you are doing some really amazing work on your car, but to me the most interesting part of your project is the engine! That aussie head looks great. What a find. What was the original application for that? Was it a stock piece, or a Ford Motorsport over-the-counter item?
    I think that head came stock on Australian production Ford cars from the early-mid 70's through the early mid 80's. It came in a carbureted version, (mine) and had a provision for an injector spray pattern cut into the intake port in later heads. The head's been since replaced w/ a twin O/H cam version that guys over there are making huge turbo'd power with out of a six. Up until then, they were still getting pretty decent power N/A using the head like I'm using.
    It is my understanding that one of the "Henry's" wanted that head put into American production cars back then, but was ultimately convinced by his staff that it would take away from the push to get a small V8 accepted by the masses here.

    Speaking of this head, it will most assuredly bring me to financial ruin. Do to the twisted valve orientation, (as opposed to the US in line version) it requires that you use the Australian camshaft. The only camshaft you can buy for it (from Australia) is either a solid, or hydraulic flat tappet.........or you can pay to have one custom built here in the US.

    I really, really DO NOT want to use a flat tappet cam now that they have changed engine oil formulations here in the US by legislating the zinc additives out of it. The zinc was what kept the oil "slippery" enough to keep a flat tappet properly lubricated, and w/o it, has been the reason several camshafts in the last few years have had a lobe go flat.
    I'm looking into having a billet roller cam built for it because of that.

    The cam from Aus will cost me between 350-500 to get here, and the custom roller will be 1000.00. Then I'll have another 450.00 or so for the lifters

  13. #63
    Mike1157
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    Well, I found what I was looking for. Tigue is a cam grinder in Australia that actually has an application to fit my engine. So it looks like I'll be running a mechanical roller in this engine after all. The cam will be small though, w/ it being a street driver only. From what I read, I should be able to use a Comp Cams BBF roller lifter. I guess we'll see soon enough, I ordered a guinea pig set from Summit last night. Since I was so excited that I won't have to worry about killing a flat tappet cam, I went down last night and started the mods to the block to make the whole head swap work.
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    This is what the deck looks like on my ugly little banger before you have to hog the lifter galley. Since a crossflow head has canted valves, the pushrods need additional room to operate those valves,...so you gotta get out a jig saw, and a die grinder.
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    Even as big as they are now, they are still not big enough. The mod requires that I bolt a piece of 1/4"x1-1/4" flat bar along side, fill the top gap w/ epoxy, and grind even more to what will amount to actually grinding through the top of the block. Since the only thing that happens on that side of the block is oil drain back, the plated epoxy solution will be fine.
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    This is where I stopped grinding. I actually used a 1/4" shank router instead of a die grinder (my poor man's Bridgeport) to get the opening smoothed out after I rough cut it w/ a jig saw. When the grindings' done, even the small remaining margin you see will be gone.

  14. #64

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    That is a kickass project and thinking outside the box. I know it's your car but I vote to keep the stock future sheet metal or something that resembles it.

  15. #65

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    NICE WORK! love the header design how long did that take to fabricate and stainless steel?? in the mean time ive built and had built a fully race speced c4 for my 3.3l with 2500rpm stall 67 fastback 8 inch rear 3.1 installed with 4.5 reverse eye and 2 inch lowering blocks, rear sway and traction masters, front end was a mission with Granada spindles, tcp adjustable 4340 chromolly tie rods and steering linkages, 620 one inch lowering v8 springs scott drake upper and lower CA's and the pro motorsprorts negative wedge with is the only way to do it with a 2 inch Shelby drop and man does it handle. motor has flat top alloy pistons dual roller timing chain late model 200 head with 1940 holley single barrel large bore out for a rebuild with karb king for blow through set up so im running a t3 turbo to start possibly 2 down the line with an alloy cylinder head but its now a cam swap and turbo header away from tearing up the streets

  16. #66
    Mike1157
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    Quote Originally Posted by giddyup12 View Post
    NICE WORK! love the header design how long did that take to fabricate and stainless steel?? in the mean time ive built and had built a fully race speced c4 for my 3.3l with 2500rpm stall 67 fastback 8 inch rear 3.1 installed with 4.5 reverse eye and 2 inch lowering blocks, rear sway and traction masters, front end was a mission with Granada spindles, tcp adjustable 4340 chromolly tie rods and steering linkages, 620 one inch lowering v8 springs scott drake upper and lower CA's and the pro motorsprorts negative wedge with is the only way to do it with a 2 inch Shelby drop and man does it handle. motor has flat top alloy pistons dual roller timing chain late model 200 head with 1940 holley single barrel large bore out for a rebuild with karb king for blow through set up so im running a t3 turbo to start possibly 2 down the line with an alloy cylinder head but its now a cam swap and turbo header away from tearing up the streets
    The header is mild steel, and took about 40 hours all toll. It looks like you are a man who goes the extra mile to "make" what has to be made when the aftermarket isn't there to support it. Good work.

    I've been making the necessary mods to my block to accommodate the crossflow head. I've also decided to install a solid roller cam in mine, and getting the lifters to fit will be the mission for today. I'll post pics up here when I get that done.

  17. #67
    Mike1157
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    Quote Originally Posted by giddyup12 View Post
    NICE WORK! love the header design how long did that take to fabricate and stainless steel?? in the mean time ive built and had built a fully race speced c4 for my 3.3l with 2500rpm stall 67 fastback 8 inch rear 3.1 installed with 4.5 reverse eye and 2 inch lowering blocks, rear sway and traction masters, front end was a mission with Granada spindles, tcp adjustable 4340 chromolly tie rods and steering linkages, 620 one inch lowering v8 springs scott drake upper and lower CA's and the pro motorsprorts negative wedge with is the only way to do it with a 2 inch Shelby drop and man does it handle. motor has flat top alloy pistons dual roller timing chain late model 200 head with 1940 holley single barrel large bore out for a rebuild with karb king for blow through set up so im running a t3 turbo to start possibly 2 down the line with an alloy cylinder head but its now a cam swap and turbo header away from tearing up the streets
    The header is mild steel, and took about 40 hours all toll. It looks like you have quite a nice project of your own going on there. Good work.

    I've been making the necessary mods to my block to accommodate the crossflow head. I've also decided to install a solid roller cam in mine, and getting the lifters to fit will be the mission for today. I'll post pics up here when I get that done.

  18. #68

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1157 View Post
    The header is mild steel, and took about 40 hours all toll. It looks like you have quite a nice project of your own going on there. Good work.

    I've been making the necessary mods to my block to accommodate the crossflow head. I've also decided to install a solid roller cam in mine, and getting the lifters to fit will be the mission for today. I'll post pics up here when I get that done.
    that's sweet, its the first inline ford six I've heard of with a solid roller lifter and camshaft valve train it should sound awesome! Especially with those lower durations but what about valve closing degrees how low are you about to go with boost at your static compression ratio goal?

    Specifically your piston size where you able to go forged alloy or cast iron and flat top or are you with the stock combustion chamber size for the 250OZ cylinder head?

  19. #69

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    so for the most part what is your block thickness looking like ......meaning did you have to bore out some of the walls inside the lifter galley or just to the top it looks like to me? the block looks nice and detailed with the added steel. have you considered any other mods to strengthen up the block as well as forged H beam rods from any other engines that might have the same dimensions for connecting rods?

  20. #70
    Mike1157
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    Quote Originally Posted by giddyup12 View Post
    so for the most part what is your block thickness looking like ......meaning did you have to bore out some of the walls inside the lifter galley or just to the top it looks like to me? the block looks nice and detailed with the added steel. have you considered any other mods to strengthen up the block as well as forged H beam rods from any other engines that might have the same dimensions for connecting rods?
    The block had to have the lifter galley extensively modified to accomodate the canted valves, and the pass through for the linked roller lifters. I'm will be using Racetec forged pistons w/ a final static comp ratio of 9:1. I'm looking into using a stock replacement rod out of a 2.5 HSC inline 4. Rod is .100 longer than my stock 250, and supposed to be stronger built, and possibly forged. I'm still looking at that though.

  21. #71

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    Love the build, I also run a megasquirt 2 and DIS, mine is EDIS. Also I am building my turbo kit right know so I can somewhat relate to what you are going through. I love fairmonts to, I would love for my next project to be a four door fairmont. Good luck with the build and keep the pics coming!
    92 Notch, 351w, ported heads, rpm 2 intake, trick flow cam, 5 speed, AEM wideband, GT-45 Turbo, megasquirt 2 v3.0 running extra code and EDIS

  22. #72
    Mike1157
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    Quote Originally Posted by PITKONG View Post
    Love the build, I also run a megasquirt 2 and DIS, mine is EDIS. Also I am building my turbo kit right know so I can somewhat relate to what you are going through. I love fairmonts to, I would love for my next project to be a four door fairmont. Good luck with the build and keep the pics coming!
    Oh I'm gonna use EDIS as well,I just need to go out and source the stuff for an EDIS 6. Did you do the build on the MS kit and all of your tuning as well? I have built two of the kits before this one ( this'll be #3) and sold the kits before I got a chance to hook them up. All I did was burn the firmware to the chip and test them to be sure that they were working. (They must be OK, both kits were sold, and I never heard from the guys).

  23. #73
    Mike1157
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    Well,... marching along.

    Today, ( actually a couple of days now,..) I've been prepping the block for the reinforcement plate that gets "glued" to the top side to reinforce the butchery that has to happen to accommodate the intake pushrods on my Xflow head swap.

    There are things about the swap that bother me, particularly having to block off so many water passages to the head,..but that is another hurdle I'll jump later in this build.
    For now,...I will deal w/ the bar stock that has to go along side:

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    Previous pioneers that have done this before fit a .250 thick, 1-1/4" bar between the two end standoffs on the block, I decided to make mine run the length of the block, starting at the front stand-off mounting surface for the front accessories. Since I plan to epoxy, and bolt my plate onto the block, I went a bit further and drilled all these additional holes to give the epoxy more to bite into.

    It has been detailed before that I plan to use a roller cam in this combo. Getting the roller lifter down into the galley, and re-linking the pair actually proved too much of a PITA for me, so I chose to cut slots for the linked lifters to get past the deck. I'm not at that stage yet though as I had to do the plate first before I could cut anything else. But I did drill and tap the six holes in the side of the block for the bolts to go through into the water risers where I will eventually cut a slot out of:
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    This picture is blurry, but it is supposed to show the surface finish of the block side of the match up. I used a grinding stone to further aggravate the surface so my glue will hold better.
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    I bought the large size JB weld you can get at AutoZone, and It's good that I did. The process uses about 2/3rds of those large tubes to butter the back of the bar, and then fill the remaining gap. It was at about this point in the process that I had to deal w/ how I was gonna glue the plate using bolts that would have to be removed later, but be immersed in epoxy at the same time. :bang:

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    Hopefully, this'll be the solution to the problem. That, my friends is automotive paste wax. ( Meguires paste wax w/ "carnuba" to be exact ). I liberally coated these six dudes w/ that wax, hoping that when I go down there and try to turn those bolts counter-clockwise they come back out. If they don't,....I'm screwed.

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    Because that junk is on there.

    After gooping the plate, and carefully bolting it in place, I tightened the bolts, and added these three clamps to be sure the plate is tight on the bottom as well. Then I took a heat gun to warm the stuff up (it's 50 degrees here today) and tapped all down the side of the block to aid in the leveling process of the epoxy. Almost immediately aftermy heat/tap regimen began,..air bubbles started to make their way to the top, so I heartily mandate doing the same, because clearly,..the thing would've had quite a few trapped bubbles had I not. It doesn't self level very well compared to the more expensive epoxies I've used in the past either,...but I think I'll be ok.

    I'll give it till tommorrow before I go down there and attempt to back those bolts back out. If any of you hear any screaming about 6-7AM tommorrow,......you know it didn't go very well.

  24. #74

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1157 View Post
    Oh I'm gonna use EDIS as well,I just need to go out and source the stuff for an EDIS 6. Did you do the build on the MS kit and all of your tuning as well? I have built two of the kits before this one ( this'll be #3) and sold the kits before I got a chance to hook them up. All I did was burn the firmware to the chip and test them to be sure that they were working. (They must be OK, both kits were sold, and I never heard from the guys).
    Yes I built the squirt myself and hard wired it into my 92 notch. Also sourced most all of my EDIS stuff from evil bay and did all the wiring and fabed up the brackett for the vr sensor. If you care here is a link to how I set up my EDIS.
    http://forums.corral.net/forums/mega...dis-setup.html
    92 Notch, 351w, ported heads, rpm 2 intake, trick flow cam, 5 speed, AEM wideband, GT-45 Turbo, megasquirt 2 v3.0 running extra code and EDIS

  25. #75
    Mike1157
    Guest

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    Just as a follow up.

    Six bolts, covered in paste wax go in to a project where at least three of them have their main sections completely surrounded in JB weld and allowed to set up hard around them.

    I was worried at least those three would be permanent additions to my monster.

    Not anymore.
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    Not only did they come out, but they came out so easy I backed them out w/ my fingers after breaking them loose w/ the wrench.

    Lesson for today then. If you DONT want JB weld to stick to something,...
    Last edited by Mike1157; 01-27-2014 at 08:09 AM.

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