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  1. #151
    Mike1157
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    Well I did manage to sneak in a small amount of progress. All I really managed to do was start to get the front suspension bolted together, but as my luck goes...there's always something. But on a related note, since this car is essentially you baby daddy, the fox mustang purists can appreciate this update too.

    Last week I rebuilt the LCA's and put new Energy suspension poly bushings, and 95 Mustang balljoints. Today I beat those suckers in place. ( And I do mean that in a literal sense) Then I squared up the K member using MM's method. Didn't matter,...even though the measurements showed the K member to be off significantly (1/4") I wasn't able to get it to move. I'll tell you one thing though, It ain't coming back out, and I'm not grinding on it.

    As w/ several things on this build, I've been sitting on the front suspension, and brakes the longest. I bought all of that stuff at the end of last summer along w/ the wheels and tires, which was the very first UPS shipment to arrive at my door. The struts are just stock replacement KYB Gas-A-Justs, but they are for a fox body.Bolting them to a SN 95 spindle requires that a set of spacers be made, as the SN 95 spindle is narrower than the older fox strut. Additionally in my case, the bolt holes didn't line up either, and I was forced to grind the strut, and the spacers accordingly to allow them to fit.

    The old fox strut was about 1/4" wider than the SN 95 spindle. Each spacer was about .120 thick.
    Timken Hubs, UPR coil over kit, UPR bumpsteer kit, UPR CC plates.


    Blurry assed pic.

    I've assembled it w/o the spring because I need to establish a ride height so I can ck, and adust the bumpsteer out of the car. For now, everything is just loosely bolted together. I'll have to go to home depot and buy a piece of MDF so I can make the bumpsteer gauge to get the bumpsteer dialed in.
    The tape measure is still laying at a diagonal after squaring up the K member, based on the plumb bobbed marks I made to the floor.

    This pic actually gives you a good idea of how the satin black paint finished. You can just see my fingerprints right in front of the strut tower where I hauled my ass off the floor after bolting that side together.

    Another stinkin' blurry pic. Sorry, stupid camera phone.

    Your standard everyday Rock Auto Mustang performance ratio PS rack. No manual rack for this car.
    That's all that got done.

  2. #152
    FEP Power Member bridgener's Avatar
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    Nice update!

    That frankenpan looks hilarious and awesome at the same time. Looks like some kind of Star Wars vehicle, good thing it wasn't painted black.

    That valve cover is nice though. It's amazing what results can be achieved with some thought. When I fabricate pieces, people give me weird looks when I say "well, I just banged it over this plate, this metal table was perfect for forming this curve, and then I gently smashed it over a broomstick handle to form this dimple".

    Anyway, it's cool to see someone else using what they have. Not everyone has access to 1000$ bead rollers and brake presses on hand.
    Brian

    1982 Capri 5.0L
    1965 Fastback project car - more rusty than not

  3. #153

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    Nice job on the valve cover.
    I got a v/c with my Aussie head/intake, so luckily I won't have to mess with that, myself.

    Project is coming along nicely.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS
    86 LTD Wagon

  4. #154
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    82GTforME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1157 View Post
    The struts are just stock replacement KYB Gas-A-Justs, but they are for a fox body.Bolting them to a SN 95 spindle requires that a set of spacers be made, as the SN 95 spindle is narrower than the older fox strut.

    The old fox strut was about 1/4" wider than the SN 95 spindle. Each spacer was about .120 thick.
    I used a set of 94 spindles and had to use the spacers and adjust the upper hole also on my older Koni's. I have to assume the KYB's you bought are for the earlier (79-86) cars and fit them to these spindles? Can one not buy 87-93 struts or SN-95 and you don't have to worry about the modification?

  5. #155
    Mike1157
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    More old school methodology.

    I have to get the front suspension to a point where It can be checked for bumpsteer. That means that Caster, Camber, and Toe all have to be close enough to make the whole process of the bumpsteer tuning not a waste of time. I assembled the front suspension, placed jackstands under the control arms to simulate ride height and put the rotors on. Then I pulled a string from the rear of the car, to the front, pulling it taught between two cement blocks.

    Referencing the line by using the rear rotor, I finessed the thing till I got it as parallel to the body as possible. Once done, I used it to align the front rotor. Once the front rotor was aligned with the string, I set the camber to zero bubble, and pushed the strut to the rear as far as the CC plates would let me.

    Then I moved the string, and clamp-U-lated these alum bars to the rotors, and set toe to 1/8" toe'd in.

    Then I put a chain between the top of the k member through the lower control arm and strapped the arm so it wouldn't drop. Removed the jack stand, bolted on my front wheel, and ran it through a turn arc to make sure it wasn't gonna rub anything. (it did)
    I have to "persuade" one of my fuel lines to hug the fender well more closely, and I'm gonna have to change the fitting that comes out of the I/C to a 90 instead of a straight w/ a 90 hose end. Both small problems that are now remedied.
    When I get to work on it next, I'm gonna place a 2x4 block between the lower arm, and the k member so I can put the thing on the ground and make sure that the ride height I think is right, is actually where I want it to be.

    And,......

    I'll roll it.

    For the first time in 8 months.
    Last edited by Mike1157; 05-27-2014 at 05:41 PM.

  6. #156
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    It's looking good Mike.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1981 Black Magic 400 c6
    93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

  7. #157
    FEP Senior Member danco86's Avatar
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    Man, what an awesome thread!
    What do you do for a living to have acquired such mad skills? Great fabrication and customization!
    Really like the photobucket link pics instead of the thumbnails IMO.
    Dan

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ng-GT-restomod


    1986 Mustang GT Cobra
    Lotsa stuff, lotsa work. Check my thread above.

    Daily drivers
    2002 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke crew 4X4
    2012 F-150 Ecoboost Screw FX4

  8. #158

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    Sorry for not commenting but you are way over my head. I enjoy reading and seeing what you do. I like your choice of cars as well. Dont get me wrong, love Mustangs more than anything but always love seeing other unique Fords/Mercs as well. Thanks for sharing!

  9. #159
    Mike1157
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    Quote Originally Posted by danco86 View Post
    Man, what an awesome thread!
    What do you do for a living to have acquired such mad skills? Great fabrication and customization!
    Really like the photobucket link pics instead of the thumbnails IMO.
    Thank you sir. I prefer the Photobucket links to thumbnails as well.

    What I do for a living has nothing to do w/ working on a car. For the last 34 years I've been in the Consumer Electronics industry. (i.e. stereo/video)
    All I can say is everything I do has been self taught. I had never welded jack until my first roll bar in 1990.
    I ended up building my last car all single-handidly in my garage. Ended up in June 12's 5.0.



    It still ended up being a "Love it, or Hate it" (most did) kind of deal. But I loved that car.
    Patriot Performance provided the stage 2 heads and cams, TMI provided the Mach1 upholstery. Those that didn't like it always prefaced it w/ "Not my cup of tea", Those that loved it stood at shows, and stared.

    People have told me I'm an "artist", IDK about that.

    The Monster will be even better in regard to finish details, but if I'm an artist, I'm hoping it'll be my "Sistene Chapel".

    BTW, I really like what you did w/ your car. Always partial to the 85/86 Mustang myself. Beautiful car. Made even more beautiful by the view out your front door. Man! I wish I still lived near the Mtns.
    Last edited by Mike1157; 05-30-2014 at 08:42 AM.

  10. #160
    Mike1157
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    Cosmetic upgrades today. Prepping the engine bay for the engine that'll end up in there very soon.

    Probably one of the best, cheap tools I've bought from HF. This os one of a set of four panel punch dies that you drill a smaller hole, and stick the cutter on one side, and the stud on the other, and simply by tightening the bolt you get a perfect hole from 3/4-1-1/2" in about a minute.

    I also made the panel to pass the column through. That raggedy rubber grommet is not available as a replacement, so I made a panel outta .030 alum, and used a seals-it grommet to pass the column through. I used another on the firewall where all of my engine electrical will come through.

    I also ran the lines for the intercooler, and terminated the ends at both bulkheads, and plumbed the intercooler itself into those bulkheads.




    The line coming out of the rear of the I/C is gonna be real close on a tight right turn. Right now, It sneaks by,...but I'll have to see it in action after I get the weight of the engine on the front end, and see what I gonna have to deal with.


    Engine next.
    Last edited by Mike1157; 05-31-2014 at 09:25 PM.

  11. #161
    Mike1157
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    **Sigh** More of the same.

    Still waiting on Summit to exchange the Crower Roller rockers so I can get a pushrod length established.

    The radiator that I ordered that was twisted got sent back and exchanged as well. Summit stepped up, sent out a new one, put in a call tag at UPS, and I got the replacement radiator on Mon-Tue of this week.

    Actually was twisted so bad you could see it while it was still in the box.

    They sent out another, issued another call tag. This time with instructions to the shipping dept to actually take the radiator out of the box, and lay it on the floor to be sure that it didn't rock.

    The one that came today had a damaged box, the lower outlet was bent to hell, and the core was twisted.

    Now I'm pis sed.

    I call Summit and tell the Cust SVC dept mgr about the fiasco, and she says that she cannot believe that they are sending out bad radiators, and that it has to be happening in transit.

    Three times in a row.

    HA! NO FREAKIN' WAY!

    I ask if she is doubting what I say, and she says no, that she was sure the radiator was bent, but believes that it's happening after it leaves their warehouse. Regardless, I tell her that I doubt that they have a straight radiator @159.00 left in their entire system, and that they should just refund me, and I'll buy one from Jegs.

    She asks if there is another radiator that maybe we can substitute?

    Well yes, there is this Howe radiator that'll fit the bill, but your website states that it's not in stock, and its 80.00 more money than the Summit brand I've been buying.
    She discounts the Howe unit to 159.00 and says she'll call Howe on Monday to see about expediting it.

    Again, a pain in the ass, but how can you argue with that?

    I get the head back from the Machine shop yesterday, now drilled, and tapped for a 7/16th coarse screw-in studs in an attempt to straighten the mis-drilled stud bosses that they messed up.

    I also have come to terms w/ my head gasket. I paid for an SCE copper piece, and that is what I'm gonna use. I just hope that the Hondabond sealant will do the job and seal the water and oil passages like they think it will.

    Desperate to move forward, I decided to completely mock up the engine in the compartment to build the accessory brackets, and hang the power accessories.

    I start by installing the HG in question:



    I'm putting this thing on there dry just to mock up installed height for when the rockers finally get here so I can get the damn push rods sorted out.

    I started by building the A/C bracket first.

    I placed the alt on top of that, but wasn't sure as to whether or not the exhaust manifold was gonna hit, so that's why I installed the head.

    Course, the head required the exhaust manifold. The exhaust manifold begets the turbo, the turbo begets the cold side piping, and finally, I throw the alt on top of the AC compressor.
    I'm gonna fix the alt in a non-adjustable position, and make an adjustable idler to tension the belt.

    Since there's no stinkin' radiator, I'll take advantage of the camera angle opportunity.
    Next I installed the intake so I could get the Cobra PS pump located.
    Clearly, I got no room to swing the alt anyway.

    I then made the block off plate that covers the W/P opening. I'm using a SBC electric W/P that'll hang from the intake in line with the block.
    The mock up wasn't w/o the usual drama though. The Intake will have to be cut up. I'm gonna have to put a 90 on the end, and orient the throttle body at 90 degrees to this pic.

    For obvious reasons.

    The valve cover is still raw, but it will get RD's fins, painted wrinkle black, then coated orange on top so I'll have wrinkle orange instead. The head gets the orange treatment too, and I'll probably change the header color to black to match the intake.

    The fuel pressure reg will have to be mounted on the strut tower on the MC side of the engine bay.
    The engine is sat so far back, I cannot get the head on w/ the studs in place, and I have to set the head, then screw in the studs. Because of that, the planned location for the regulator at the end of the fuel rail is a no-go.

    The power steering pump in this pic is only held on w/ one bolt. I still have reinforcement brackets to make, as well as the mount to allow me to swing an idler pulley against the belt. I hope to get that done tomorrow.

  12. #162
    FEP Senior Member danco86's Avatar
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    Looking good!
    Nice that summit went good on the rad too.
    Dan

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ng-GT-restomod


    1986 Mustang GT Cobra
    Lotsa stuff, lotsa work. Check my thread above.

    Daily drivers
    2002 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke crew 4X4
    2012 F-150 Ecoboost Screw FX4

  13. #163
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    Looking good Mike. Don't you just love custom work. Plans come together... until they don't and you make a new plan.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1981 Black Magic 400 c6
    93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

  14. #164

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    Was you at mustang week last year cause I'm sure I saw this car at the car show. Also, great work on your project I built my own turbo kit and megasquirt by myself so I have great respect for what you have done. Keep up the good work!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1157 View Post
    Thank you sir. I prefer the Photobucket links to thumbnails as well.

    What I do for a living has nothing to do w/ working on a car. For the last 34 years I've been in the Consumer Electronics industry. (i.e. stereo/video)
    All I can say is everything I do has been self taught. I had never welded jack until my first roll bar in 1990.
    I ended up building my last car all single-handidly in my garage. Ended up in June 12's 5.0.



    It still ended up being a "Love it, or Hate it" (most did) kind of deal. But I loved that car.
    Patriot Performance provided the stage 2 heads and cams, TMI provided the Mach1 upholstery. Those that didn't like it always prefaced it w/ "Not my cup of tea", Those that loved it stood at shows, and stared.

    People have told me I'm an "artist", IDK about that.

    The Monster will be even better in regard to finish details, but if I'm an artist, I'm hoping it'll be my "Sistene Chapel".

    BTW, I really like what you did w/ your car. Always partial to the 85/86 Mustang myself. Beautiful car. Made even more beautiful by the view out your front door. Man! I wish I still lived near the Mtns.
    92 Notch, 351w, ported heads, rpm 2 intake, trick flow cam, 5 speed, AEM wideband, GT-45 Turbo, megasquirt 2 v3.0 running extra code and EDIS

  15. #165
    Mike1157
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    Quote Originally Posted by mustangxtreme View Post
    Looking good Mike. Don't you just love custom work. Plans come together... until they don't and you make a new plan.
    That seems to be the way of the world w/ this one. I should've known better than to make anything w/o having it mocked up, then I wouldn't be having to modify things after the fact.

  16. #166
    FEP Power Member bridgener's Avatar
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    Loving this build every (painful) step of the way. Almost like your car is your dominatrix or something... the car is whipping you the whole way through.

    Cool to see another inline 6 build coming along while doing the engine in my dad's car. It'll be interesting to see this one running. Knowing that you modified pretty much every internal component of the engine will be pretty satisfying.
    Brian

    1982 Capri 5.0L
    1965 Fastback project car - more rusty than not

  17. #167
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Cool updates. Like where this is heading....
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  18. #168
    Mike1157
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    Just to echo my update on the "other forum", I finally managed to complete the serpentine conversion. The first version was without a ribbed idler, and the belt was barely touching the balancer pulley. Basically a prime candidate for belt slippage. So, in version 2.0, I added another idler, and made a bell crank like mount plate to mount the two idlers on. Now, when I tighten the smooth idler, the ribbed idler pushes the belt tighter as well.


    What you can't see in the pic (because it's not installed) is the strut brace that spans between the alt, and the PS pump bkt. I was so happy to finally have this mod behind me, I took the pic w/o that stuff installed.

    I also modified the intake manifold to allow for the 90 degree angle that the throttle body had to be reloc'd to. While I was at it, I made the bkt that the PS reservoir mounts to, and hung the SBC electric w/p that will feed the engine.

    The pump is mounted to a 1/2" thick piece of aluminum that is bracketed to the underside of the intake.

    There are two 3/4 npt-12's that come off of that that will feed water to the engine and heater.

    The inlet of the pump is almost a straight shot to the lower radiator outlet.
    Speaking of radiators, The Howe unit wasn't gonna work after I modified the intake w/ that goofy assed bend. Before Summit could ship it, I called, and had them exchange it for a Griffin piece instead. That required me to re-modify the saddle back to the factory mount locations that I cut away when I decided to make the universal Summit piece work. After I got the thing in, and all squared up, I test fit the fan/shroud combo that I've had sitting on a shelf since last November.

    No worky.

    The fan crashes into the newly made serpentine drive system. The only alternative I have now is to ditch the shroud. For extra cooling insurance, I purchased two additional 9" fans that I'll mount next to the 16" piece, and have all three of the things going when the A/C is on.

    I also installed the condenser, and hung the Vintage air evap unit.



    The plan for this interior is pretty wild. I was gonna use a version of an 89 dash and console, but decided to scrap that altogether in favor of a completely custom setup.
    I've had this idea rolling around in my head for years now, I just needed the platform to make it work. Regardless, There's no way in hell, I'm gonna be w/ AC in the summer, so the little Vintage air unit will fit the bill nicely.

  19. #169
    Mike1157
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    I must be getting old.

    I know I'm getting old.

    I had BIG plans today. Finally had the adj pushrod, the "right" ratio rockers, and the whole day in front of me.

    I started out by trying to finally nail down, once and for all the stinkin' pushrod length.
    Every V8 I've ever had, the short end of the rocker was lower than the long end. On this stupid 6 banger, in order to get the roller tip anywhere near the center, required that I adjust it so high, that the rocker was almost level across the top.
    Starting the thing through a lift cycle w/ it set like that caused the poly lock to collide w/ the rear of the rocker slot. If I dropped the rear of the rocker, that didn't happen, but the tip started so far off the center of the valve, it was a bad thing.

    I called Crower. (Again)

    I told dude about my set up, and he offered the option of changing out the trunions w/ one that was offset either .050, or .090. That wasn't gonna work for me, although it would move the whole rocker that much closer to the valve, it would also increase the likelihood that that fat assed pushrod was gonna collide with the back of the rocker.

    There had to be another option.

    I asked dude if there was some other 1.7 ratio rocker that was longer from the stud to the valve w/o having to press out 12 trunions. He thought about it,......and said let him ck into it, and he'd call me back.

    15 mins later I get a call.

    He says by general concensus at Crowers' tech department, they all advised me to send back the 1.73 ford rocker, and get a 1.75 BBC rocker. That ratio would increase the long end .060 w/o moving the small end closer to the stud.

    I told dude I already tried a 1.75 I6 chevy rocker and it was too long, he says that this isn't that rocker.

    Okie Doke. I'll send yet another set of rockers back, and exchange them for something else.

    Again.

    So that took up the first hour of my day.

    The valve cover. The one that I said was "kinda" finished, that nobody called me on, still was lacking something for me to be totally happy w/it.

    It needed a little something else.

    I come back in get on the computer, dick around here for about an hour, all while looking at small aluminum letters online.

    ( I was thinking I was gonna spell out CROSSFLOW down the middle.)

    But stupid little aluminum letters cost about 12.00 a pop. It wasn't bothering me that bad to have a bare valve cover that I needed to spend another 100.00 just so I could bling it up.

    I resigned myself to having a boring valve cover, and went back downstairs, and started rummaging through some of the mountain of new stuff to put on the car. I decided to install the rear brakes, and attempt to fab up a tunnel mounted E brake handle to actuate them.

    I get the driver side mounted, when... (because I was laying on my back, and my view angle allowed me to see it) I saw the solution to my boring valve cover.

    There, in the corner of the old six banger junk was the stock, stamped steel valve cover. On top of that valve cover was the script: POWER BY FORD w/ the traditional blue oval at the end.

    I get out the cut off wheel, a block of wood, some black paint, some clear paint and a sanding block, and cut, grind, beat, flatten, sand and paint that piece of steel.

    Then of course I glue it to the valve cover.



    Now it looks done to me.

    But, no sooner did I get that done, and UPS shows up w/ another damn box.

    What's in the box I wonder, and I cut it open to find the Taylor plug wires I ordered for the goofy assed 6 tower coil pack that goes w/ the EDIS-6 ignition that I'm running. I open the wires to see if they are cut to fit or already made, so I can determine where I might locate that stupid clunky thing.

    They're already cut to length. I only got about a foot on the shortest wire.

    Now I gotta find somewhere to put the thing that is close enough to allow for that short assed wire.

    What started out as a relatively spacious engine compartment is cramping up in a hurry. The turbo and the exhaust manifold (Medusa), take up the entire passenger side, and the induction has the fuel rail on top, a water pump, and a dual oil filtration system under it, so I got no choice.

    I had to put it on top of my pretty valve cover.


    The ugly assed thing sits on four 1/4 " pedestals, and is through bolted to the top. I hate it, but I didn't see an alternative.

    I amble back inside, get back on the computer, dick around here again, fall asleep for 15 minutes, and go back outside.

    I open the box that has my Lokar trans dipstick tube in it.

    Why did I think I needed a 36" long dipstick tube?

    I don't know why either, (must've just finished my last crack vial) but I'm determined to NOT send this thing back. It's just like a piece of braided line anyway. I Modify, I overcome, I adapt.

    I cut it down to 24", It now fits.

    Also inside that box is my 42.5" long F-250 accelerator cable. All I have to do is make the bracket

    Fit's like a glovie.

    You cant see it, ( and you're not going to either) but I needed a piece of metal the right thickness to slide the molded on retainer on the acc cable to. The only thing I could find that was the right thickness was an extra 18" steel ruler from an old broken combination square I had laying around.
    So my bracket has little tick marks indicating that it is exactly 1.750 long to the bottom of the bracket.:banana:

    I mounted the water pump permanently, and used the Hondabond that I'm gonna use to try and seal my copper head gasket with, to hold the WP gaskets in place.
    I wanted to see how this junk works before I use it on a 275.00 piece of copper.

    All I can say is, Once you bed the gasket,............it better be where you want it.

    The Post office dude dropped off the box that has my A/C pieces parts in it, I figured I'd mock up all of the lines so I could go have the ends crimped on at my crimpin' dude store.

    They send female parts,......I need male parts.

    Female junk,.................always thinkin' I need an "inny" when I need an "outtie"

    In reality, (upon reflection) I guess I did get a lot done considering. Between piddling, surfing, and dinking I guess/

  20. #170
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1157 View Post
    I must be getting old.

    In reality, (upon reflection) I guess I did get a lot done considering. Between piddling, surfing, and dinking I guess/

    Well done man.

    Your off your rocker....

  21. #171

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    Why not LS1 coils instead of the ford coil packs? Especially if youre looking for a nice neat/cool install
    Rob

    '83 Capri RS, all apart again
    The rebirth: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ghlight=rsmerc

    '13 Raptor SCrew

  22. #172
    FEP Super Member 79mustangcobra's Avatar
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    Nice updates and work! Thanks for sharing
    1979 Mustang Cobra 5.0
    2P Red and 1C Black

    Stock never goes out of style
    MCA #70281 - 79-93 MCA Concours Judge
    Proverbs 3:5-6



    My Mustang Story
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...71#post1688371

  23. #173
    Mike1157
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    I've been tackling small hurdles w/ the engine that are really not worth mentioning.
    Managed a few more piddly mods.

    I've been eluding the need for the following required mod for some time now. Today, I completed that. What'll probably look like a WTF to a lot of you is my attempt to vent hot water, and trapped air pockets off of the top of the exhaust ports, and route that water into the hose upstream of the T-stat. There are so many blocked water passages both on the block, and the head on this swap, I wanted to be sure that any instance where water might stagnate has a chance to move.



    This line forced me to change the compressor housing on the turbo, because the outlet was too close to the valve cover, and would have made this too tight of a fit. I tried to do this in aluminum, AN stuff, and flare fittings, but the alum line wouldn't bend tight enough coming off of the fittings in the heads, and stuck way the hell out there. When I tried to tighten the bends up, they flattened. So now I got a buttload of -6 hard line junk I'll probably never use.

    The arrows in the pic shows all that's left for water passages for water to get into the head. All those plugs used to be open for water to flow through on the Aus engine. You cant see the two rear passages that water can get to because I cut them off in the pic. Fortunately, they're fairly big, and the t stat housing is at the opposite end so when that dude opens, there should be a green Tsunami flowing outta that head.


    As you may be able to surmise, I've bent more than my share of hard lines, and have done several fogger systems, so this really wasn't that big a deal. I don't know how much, or if it'll help that much, but it makes me feel better about it.

    I got nothing back from Dave Crower, so I'm gonna go forward w/ the external oil pump system. I have had the drive mandrel since the last drag car where it was used to drive an external fuel pump. So I took it to a machine shop yesterday afternoon to have it shortened to fit this engine.


    The smooth spacer between the big washers is just to get a reference for the .750 gilmer belt that will drive the oil pump. I had to hack the end of the thing almost completely off to get it to comfortably clear the radiator cooling fans, but I think I'll be OK.

  24. #174

    Default

    ive been lurking for while on the this forum and never posted anything at all. But i found your build today a casual perusal and all i gotta say is dam... this is one custom badass build! ive always been a big fan of the turbo i6 and 4cylinders. having owned a heavily modded turbo 4cyl fox in the past. and im now in the process of a supercoupe 3.8 w/ m90 build in a sn95 tho...

    im eager to see the completion of this build! keep up the great work! your an inspiration with all the fabrication and ingenuity you have woven into this build!

  25. #175

    Default

    Wow! Impressive build! And impressive talent. Nice work.

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