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  1. #1
    FEP Member Tyrel's Avatar
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    Default Blower Motor Not Working

    So I tried out my heater in the car to see if it works and it doesn't. So I am looking for any suggestions as to what it might be. This will be the first time I have worked on a blower motor. Any help with troubleshooting would be appreciated. I got a hanes manual and talked to my buddy at lordco and both said it could be the resistor as well as the blower motor. But I am not sure where to find the resistor or what it looks like. Any help is appreciated. Thanks for the help.

  2. #2

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    The resistor is mounted to the HVAC box, IIRC you can see it under the dash. Look for wires leading to it.

    Only time I had a blower motor not work, it was because of the ignition switch.

    I presume you've checked the fuses.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.

  3. #3
    FEP Member Tyrel's Avatar
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    Yes, I checked the fuses and just put a brand new ignition switch in the car.

  4. #4

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    What it might be could be different things, depending on what year your car is, and whether it has
    factory A/C, or just heat. The blower motor circuits in Fox Mustangs are not all the same.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  5. #5
    FEP Member Tyrel's Avatar
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    Default

    86 GT Mustang, no ac just heat.

  6. #6

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    I just had the same thing happen to me. My high fan would still kick in but not the other two. If I'm right I believe if your high fan still works then it is likely the resistor and if your high fan does not work likely the fan it self.

    If you do get a resistor then get the one without A/C as they are both different.
    1985 Mustang GT 5speed LRB with Ford Racing M-6007-X302, Performer RPM, Holley 670 Avenger carb, BBK headers with H-pipe, B&M short throw
    1986 Mustang GT (parts car)
    1986 LX Coupe 4cyl, 4speed, LRB

  7. #7

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    The fan on a heater-only '86 is connected to the blower resistor assembly, and receives power
    directly from fuse 9. The black-wire side of the fan connects through the resistors to the switch,
    which then connects to the main dash ground that is on the lower dash frame between the radio
    and glovebox.

    If the fan works with the switch in the HI position, that eliminates the power feed, fan, and ground
    connection, and strongly suggests the resistors have failed, but rather than just replace the resistor,
    a quick check with an Ohm meter or test light will prove things.

    There should be < 1Ω resistance between the fan black wire terminal, and the orange/black stripe
    wire terminal. You should have a few Ohms resistance between the fan black wire terminal and
    the light blue/orange hash wire terminal, and a few more ohms between black and the red/orange
    hash terminal. You can also just pull out the resistor block and look. It's a wire-wound unit, and
    a broken resistance element will be obvious.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member In2Fords's Avatar
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    Default

    On my non A/C 1984 I had the same thing happen and Looking into it and it was the diode/resistor in the assembly but I could NOT find a new resistor assembly at the parts store. went to the dealer fearing the worst but they actually got me one in from texas.
    The new one doesnt have a diode in it at all, they simply connect the two plugs directly, still has the resistor coils but not the part that normally fails.

    I saved the new piece and simply crimped in a paper clip into where the diode gets crimped in.

    I *think* its a diode? maybe a resistor but anyway its gone now.





    1979 tangerine capri, 40k miles, sn95 8.8, spindles, eibach v8 springs, caster camber plates, manual steering and brakes, Lincoln master cylinder, rebuilt 2.3t/t5 from 85 tbird, nothing much!

  9. #9
    FEP Member Tyrel's Avatar
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    I'm having a hell of a time findinh a brand new resister. Done of the parts stores have the proper one. Only the 87 and newer looking one. Called ford and they told me its discontinued. Ended up going to the wrecker and found an ok lookinh one that I fixed up. Anyone one know where to get a resistor for a 1986 or older?

  10. #10
    FEP Member Tyrel's Avatar
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    Brand new that is. And sorry for the spelling errors.

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member kbrandt's Avatar
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    Default

    RockAuto shows several available, Standard Motor Products Part # RU405, Motorcraft Part # YH1719 {#E35Y19A706A} and Four Seasons Part # 20322. They show the same part number for '83-'93. That doesn't surprise me as the "E3" beginning to the Ford part number generally means that part was first used on an '83 model year.

    Are you sure yours is bad though? There are other elements that could have failed in the circuit. Definitely check the fuse. JACook already detailed how to check the resistor module. Both the blower motor and switch could also have failed.
    "I want to die in my sleep like my grandfather... Not screaming and yelling like the passengers in his car." - Will Shriner

    '86 GT Mustang "Tigger"
    '95 GT convertible (wife's car)
    '86 SVO accursed car (sold)

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by In2Fords View Post
    I *think* its a diode? maybe a resistor but anyway its gone now.
    Thermal fuse.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  13. #13

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    HI ALL I know this is 7 years old but need some help. I got a new blower motor and a new resister the fuse is good . I have no power to the new switch in dash I have no power to resistor or blower motor. checking with my test light. not sure if not have black wire from blower motor not grounded would make any difference . I have no power to dash switch/? Need help

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