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  1. #51
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Cool, I hope you can figure it out.... but you do have a sick motor for sure. I would not be driving it much even as a daily driver until you find out what is wrong. It could cause damage to the engine. Being a daily driver it is going to be hard to diagnose and drive the car. You should consider paying a Ford dealer to diagnose it for you. No shame in that and it might save you a lot of aggravation. If it is something simple, just let them fix it for you, if it's something big and expensive, just pay their diagnostic fee and take it home to fix it yourself.

  2. #52

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    Quote Originally Posted by PaceFever79 View Post
    Cool, I hope you can figure it out.... but you do have a sick motor for sure. I would not be driving it much even as a daily driver until you find out what is wrong. It could cause damage to the engine. Being a daily driver it is going to be hard to diagnose and drive the car. You should consider paying a Ford dealer to diagnose it for you. No shame in that and it might save you a lot of aggravation. If it is something simple, just let them fix it for you, if it's something big and expensive, just pay their diagnostic fee and take it home to fix it yourself.
    thaks for your concern but i can asure you my hometown ford dealer has never seen or heard a thing about an SVO.. lol .. i dont think they have even heard about it. mine is the only one i ve ever seen in the flesh so i am guessing i will have to find a good mechanic. one more question.. can the svo be computer scanned?

  3. #53
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Are you in the USA? Just realized maybe not....

    Yes the SVO has an OBD1 computer that can be scanned for codes.

  4. #54

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    Quote Originally Posted by PaceFever79 View Post
    Are you in the USA? Just realized maybe not....

    Yes the SVO has an OBD1 computer that can be scanned for codes.
    i am in Piedras Negras ,Mexico.. borderline with Eagle Pass Texas!
    the ford dealer in eagle pass aint the best place to take an old school car.. i ahould be able to find some good old school mechanic in my hometown!

  5. #55
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    You can also try asking for help at http://mustangsvo.org and http://www.turboford.org

  6. #56
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rogelioifmradio View Post
    i am in Piedras Negras ,Mexico.. borderline with Eagle Pass Texas!
    the ford dealer in eagle pass aint the best place to take an old school car.. i ahould be able to find some good old school mechanic in my hometown!
    Okay, that helps explain things you are somewhat on your own!

  7. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by PaceFever79 View Post
    Okay, that helps explain things you are somewhat on your own!
    As long as i have your suport And help you all , i will be in good hands! Regards from te border

  8. #58

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    Quote Originally Posted by rogelioifmradio View Post
    I should have Had speed with the boost you saw.. All that boost And no speed ?
    Not really. How fast can you expect the car to go in the two seconds you were under boost before shifting? You're shifting at about 4k RPM, with a 6k RPM redline. Regardless what you've heard, these cars are 4cyls, they don't make low end torque. They spin the tires at 4,500 RPM, not 1,500. Unless you're under boost, the 2.3T is just a low compression variant of the 88hp 2.3. For that boost to do any good you need to be into boost for more than two seconds. Drive that thing like it's stolen, shift no sooner than 5,500RPM, shift quickly and get back into the gas, don't stop shifting until you're in 4th gear.
    1986 Mustang Notch, 2.3L Turbo Project

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy2.3Mustang View Post
    Drive that thing like it's stolen, shift no sooner than 5,500RPM, shift quickly and get back into the gas, don't stop shifting until you're in 4th gear.
    Now you're speaking my language!
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  10. #60

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy2.3Mustang View Post
    Not really. How fast can you expect the car to go in the two seconds you were under boost before shifting? You're shifting at about 4k RPM, with a 6k RPM redline. Regardless what you've heard, these cars are 4cyls, they don't make low end torque. They spin the tires at 4,500 RPM, not 1,500. Unless you're under boost, the 2.3T is just a low compression variant of the 88hp 2.3. For that boost to do any good you need to be into boost for more than two seconds. Drive that thing like it's stolen, shift no sooner than 5,500RPM, shift quickly and get back into the gas, don't stop shifting until you're in 4th gear.
    But then it can only be Enjoyed on a track!! You saying i wont Enjoy the turbo juice from my svo unless i drive it like a race car? Why then a vw 1.8 feels stronger at lower rpm? Why a Gli jetta will practically launch from the the start. Whats the point on building a mustang that only performs when is driven on a track? I am guessing i bought the wrong car .. ..
    Last edited by rogelioifmradio; 11-12-2013 at 01:12 AM.

  11. #61

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    Be carefull of any mods you make over stock. Unless you do "everything" that is required for a single mod, such as increasing the boost a whole bunch, you run the risk of possible engine damage, and it may not run correctly either and just cause you headaches. I allow my turbo to go up to about 11-12 psi and that's it. I don't have any other mods to my car and I don't want to crack a piston or a cylinder head, so I keep the boost within reason. If you are going to go "mod" crazy, you also might want to grow lots of hair, cause you might be pulling it out with all the problems you might run into if you are unfamiliar with your car like you sound like you are. The dealer is also the last place you take an old car like yours, especially if it has been dicked with, they don't like cars like that at all. I'll bet that most of the techs they have were not around when you car was built and they have never had one in their shop. They would charge you a small fortune to look at it and probably couldn't even fix it. They would be lost. A bone stock SVO would be difficult for them at this point. My advice, go back to stock, start over and get it running correctly, then make changes when you got everything lined up and know what you are doing.
    JK
    1983 Capri RS Turbo (since new)
    1970 Boss 302 (since 1980)
    1965 Mustang Coupe (since 1976)

  12. #62
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rogelioifmradio View Post
    But then it can only be Enjoyed on a track!! You saying i wont Enjoy the turbo juice from my svo unless i drive it like a race car? Why then a vw 1.8 feels stronger at lower rpm? Why a Gli jetta will practically launch from the the start. Whats the point on building a mustang that only performs when is driven on a track? I am guessing i bought the wrong car .. ..
    I agree you should not be modifying your SVO, mainly because you don't yet understand the turbo systems, just cranking up the boost is not good. It could lead to engine failure!! That said, by watching your videos, I don't think your SVO is running correctly. So I would first put the boost controls back to stock configuration, then begin to figure out why it's not running properly. You have not even experienced - the stock level of performance - from your SVO. Put everything back to stock, then work on getting it tuned up and running properly.

    If you don't enjoy fussing and working on old cars, you should probably just sell the SVO, because it is not going to be the kind of car that you can learn and tinker with and be a reliable daily driver. It's a classic sports car, not a daily driver.

    A 5.0 Mustang (like you had) would be better for that.
    Last edited by PaceFever79; 11-12-2013 at 08:50 AM.

  13. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by PaceFever79 View Post
    I agree you should not be modifying your SVO, mainly because you don't yet understand the turbo systems, just cranking up the boost is not good. It could lead to engine failure!! That said, by watching your videos, I don't think your SVO is running correctly. So I would first put the boost controls back to stock configuration, then begin to figure out why it's not running properly. You have not even experienced - the stock level of performance - from your SVO. Put everything back to stock, then work on getting it tuned up and running properly.

    If you don't enjoy fussing and working on old cars, you should probably just sell the SVO, because it is not going to be the kind of car that you can learn and tinker with and be a reliable daily driver. It's a classic sports car, not a daily driver.

    A 5.0 Mustang (like you had) would be better for that.
    i do enjoy working on old cars, is just that the svo is new for me, the only mods i ve done tho my car are a gillis valve and a conic air filter and thats all! , i am more of a stock car lover so i wont go crazy doing mods that can damage my ride.
    i will go back to the BCS system this days but i will leave the conic air filter there. i have everything to go back to the BCS around there but if you can provide me a diagram of how it was conected i will really apreciate it.. thanks in advance!

  14. #64
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Okay, if you are committed to learning about your car, you should buy factory service manuals

    What year is your SVO?

  15. #65

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    Quote Originally Posted by rogelioifmradio View Post
    But then it can only be Enjoyed on a track!! You saying i wont Enjoy the turbo juice from my svo unless i drive it like a race car? Why then a vw 1.8 feels stronger at lower rpm? Why a Gli jetta will practically launch from the the start. Whats the point on building a mustang that only performs when is driven on a track? I am guessing i bought the wrong car .. ..
    Don't forget our cars are 27+ years old...hence 27+ year old technology. As mentioned by me and others...these cars like to be revved!!! These newer cars have a TON of technology behind them to get them where they are. More sophisticated turbos, tricked out computer systems, variable valve and cam timing etc etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by rogelioifmradio View Post
    But then it can only be Enjoyed on a track!! You saying i wont Enjoy the turbo juice from my svo unless i drive it like a race car? Why then a vw 1.8 feels stronger at lower rpm? Why a Gli jetta will practically launch from the the start. Whats the point on building a mustang that only performs when is driven on a track? I am guessing i bought the wrong car .. ..

    I dissagree. I drive my SVO everyday and it's SOOO much fun. If you know how to launch the car it's a blast...you have to really wing the throttle and get into boost right away...again it's all knowing how to drive it. As mentioned, first tinker with the car checking everything that's been suggested here and go from there...perhaps there IS something wrong with it...

  16. #66

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    Quote Originally Posted by PaceFever79 View Post
    Okay, if you are committed to learning about your car, you should buy factory service manuals

    What year is your SVO?
    its a 1986

  17. #67
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Okay, here is the original Ford shop manuals

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Ford-Ca...ac8678&vxp=mtr

    You or your chosen mechanic will find these very useful.

  18. #68

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    You shouldn't even be running a MBC without a quality boost gauge to tell you how much boost you're actually running.

    I personally wouldn't bother trying to reconnect the stock BCS system. Just run a vacuum line directly from a boost/vacuum source to the wastegate actuator, cap everything else. That should let the wastegate control the boost automatically. It might not boost as high as with the stock boost control, but it shouldn't overboost at all. If it's still overboosting you have a wastegate problem, or something else is going on.
    1986 Mustang Notch, 2.3L Turbo Project

  19. #69

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy2.3Mustang View Post
    You shouldn't even be running a MBC without a quality boost gauge to tell you how much boost you're actually running.

    I personally wouldn't bother trying to reconnect the stock BCS system. Just run a vacuum line directly from a boost/vacuum source to the wastegate actuator, cap everything else. That should let the wastegate control the boost automatically. It might not boost as high as with the stock boost control, but it shouldn't overboost at all. If it's still overboosting you have a wastegate problem, or something else is going on.
    The car used to boost to 14 psi when it had the bcs And the switch was in premium.. It has never overboosted Not then And not now.. I ve mistakenly used the term overboost because the buzzer warning sound came inn ..

  20. #70
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    You just need to get yourself into a 5 point Oh V8 backed by a good ole T-5 to give you grunt you desire.....

  21. #71

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    Quote Originally Posted by rogelioifmradio View Post
    The car used to boost to 14 psi when it had the bcs And the switch was in premium.. It has never overboosted Not then And not now.. I ve mistakenly used the term overboost because the buzzer warning sound came inn ..
    You're putting an awful lot of faith into a factory boost gauge that's only slightly less vague than a "turbo" indicator light. It's intended to give an indication the turbo is functioning more than as a tuning aid. Maybe it's just me but the only two gauges in the stock dash I'd trust are the speedometer and gas gauge, and even then I'd be careful.

    The overboost buzzer coming on is a good indication you're exceeding the recommended maximum boost level.

    At any rate, if you only hold the gas into boost for two seconds the car is going to feel slow because you're not driving it into the RPM range where the turbo is actually doing anything. Of course it feels slow, turbocharged small displacement engines from the 80's didn't generate any low end torque vs the V8 of the time that only generated low end torque.

    Go watch a few 2.3T videos on Youtube, and pay attention to where the drivers are shifting. It should give you a very clear view that you're shifting way too early.
    1986 Mustang Notch, 2.3L Turbo Project

  22. #72
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    I think he said somewhere back in the thread that he has tried winding it out (just not in the video) and it doesn't make much difference in power? If you have time, shoot another video winding it up to yellow line before shifting. I said yellow because if you do have a problem there is no need to wind it past that or to redline, it should still make good power in the 4000-5000 range.

  23. #73

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    Does the car have the supporting mods for the extra boost? Upgraded fuel pump, Downpipe, cone filter?
    00 GT Terminnated
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  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy2.3Mustang View Post
    At any rate, if you only hold the gas into boost for two seconds the car is going to feel slow because you're not driving it into the RPM range where the turbo is actually doing anything.
    Quite opposite with new technology. My ecoboost pickup spools at very low RPM's (<1500). IIRC they have max torque at just over 2000 RPM with the dual turbos.

    Where is the max power band with the 2.3T?
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 11-13-2013 at 12:15 AM.

  25. #75

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    Hello my friends... heres the update on my svo.. i went to the mechanic this afternoon and check the timming.. spout disconected the car was at 10 degrees!! ..
    fuel presure was 38 psi.. going to 45-50 under acceleration... with the regulator disconected went up to 45-50 ...so!! fuel presure ok, timming ok!! i am staritng to believe that theres nothing wrong with the car and that maybe (as i didnt have another one around to compare with) i am not driving it the way it should... ohh theres no vacuum leak at all..the car shows -20 vacuum at idle.. tomorrow i will do the cat test just to discard it is not clogged.. regards!!
    Last edited by rogelioifmradio; 11-14-2013 at 10:35 PM.

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