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  1. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by n20capri View Post
    I had a kinked fuel line in my Capri (V once...the car started drove and idled perfectly but when I got on it, it was a DOG. No miss or rough running, just an absolute dog...bogged terribly and had no power...I had pressure but not volume...I'm thinking in a turbo car if this were the case the car would be pinging like crazy - BUT, I suppose the knock sensor could be pulling nutty timing...THIS, could cause the car to run as described I think...something to check out anyway. Also, has the timing been checked...if it's way off it could run as described as well. Food for thought...
    These car are getting very old. Maybe there is some rust or debris in the injectors or pressure regulator or even the fuel filters. (check the tank and frame mounted filters)
    JK
    1983 Capri RS Turbo (since new)
    1970 Boss 302 (since 1980)
    1965 Mustang Coupe (since 1976)

  2. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by bosscar View Post
    Well, you have to compare apples to apples. A V8 car is an orange, not an apple, my Turbo RS is in the 2,960 range, which places the SVO in a 100-200 pound heavier class, which is the same as carrying a fairly heavy passenger with you. When a passenger is riding with me, I can definitely feel the difference, it is very noticeable in performance. The car rides better but the acceleration is definitely down.
    Well sure but I thought you were referring to your dealership story comparing your car to a 302 car...

  3. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by rogelioifmradio View Post
    I ve got to say that the mechanic didn't do all the "sprout out " thing i ve read here regarding the timing belt, he said that that procedure is only done when you fix or rebuilt te engine .. So he only marked points on the pulleys and lock them.
    You are confusing two issues here. The timing belt sets the realtionship between the crank, distributor (via the auxilary shaft), and camshaft. Once that realtionship is set, you still need ot set the ignition timing. Since the problem existed before the timing belt change, the ignition timing could of been wrong all along.

    Get a timing light, disconnect the spout, and verify the ignition timing is 10* with the spout disconnected. I dont care what your mechanic says, you need to verify ignition timing is correct. These things like ignition timing, that is basically where the extra power came from as the SVO evolved, things changed, but the PE in the 85.5 & 86 SVO had the most agressive timing of any 2.3 Processor.

    Without a doubt, retarded ignition timing will give you the issues you report (soft, not impressive). A concern would be that a previous owner retarded it because of other issues (fuel system).

    My couse would be to set the ignition timing to 10* base, spout out, then move directly into fuel system diagnosis with a pressure gauge you can see while driving (fuel pressure must increase with boost). I would also verify that the premium fuel switch is really set to premium mode, the switch grounds the EEC and if it's not in premium mode it will also not see the added timing (normal fuel table is conservative).

    Another thing with these is valve springs and cam wear. If yours has never been touched, The slider cam could be worn and most certainly the valvesprings are a bit "flat". This is a two fold issue, wear in the valvetrain will cause noise that the knock sensor will see as detonation, and pull timing hurting performance. The knock sensor on these things is overly senstive and will kill power. The other aspect with the hydraulic valvetrain is that soft springs will allow the HLA' to pump up, and hold the valves open. You can sort of detect this is after a hard run, the car runs a bit rough, but then clears up after a while. Extremly bad ones will make it stall, then crank like there is no compression.

    Sorry this got long, but start with the ignition timing, move ot fuel system, then go into these deeper items.
    Bob Myers ©

    84 Capri RS Turbo - Only a 4 banger - 1/8th 6.29@110, 1/4 9.87@137

  4. #29

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    I think I found the literature where I got the idea the SVO was much heavier. Take a look at the pages of the 1986 model year Mustang brochure. One page lists the "Curb weight" of the seden and hatchback and also the "SVO", all on the same line, and the hatchback says 2,791 lbs and the SVO says 3,140 lbs. I'm sure those are 4 cyl. cars base weights with no options, but still, the SVO is probably almost 300-350 lbs heavier than a regular hatchback with the same options! Big difference.
    JK
    1983 Capri RS Turbo (since new)
    1970 Boss 302 (since 1980)
    1965 Mustang Coupe (since 1976)

  5. #30
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    The SVO had standard AC, power windows, power locks, moonroof, and heavy adjustable sport seats, where as the other base models did not. A fully loaded 5.0 GT would tip the scales at a similar 3100-3200 lbs
    Last edited by PaceFever79; 11-11-2013 at 09:06 AM.

  6. #31

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    I had the valve spring issue in mine, and it would run real bad when cold. When the oil would thin out whan it was warm it would run a little better.
    After the new springs it was a night and day comparison

  7. #32

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    Here are the videos i promise to up load i hope they can help solve the problem
    Sorry about my english is very rustic.

  8. #33

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    wow it goes up early and real fast. Do you ever rev it higher? Does it fell better when you do? Seems like you shift early on that last video. I like to rev the piss out of mine

  9. #34
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    While I can't comment on the technical reasons behind it, I can say that when my boost gauge goes up like yours in the second video, the RPM spikes really fast along with it (as well as the acceleration). I hope you can find the problem and enjoy the car as you should.

  10. #35

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    Have you checked vacuum?
    I had a notch with a 2.3 turbo in it and ran like yours. I noticed that I had no vacuum at idle and it had like 30in. (or whatever it is) a while back and it was less then less and performance was also dropping. Finally I checked it for leaks and it was leaking at the intake manifold to the cylinder head gasket. Spray some carb cleaner around and check it for leaks. Just an idea

  11. #36

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    Your only revving the car to 4k. Spin that sucker up to 6k!!!! Your BARELY getting in to boost.

    Here are some vids of mine...nothing special - 14.0@97 but you get the idea...

    In this one I blow the tires off in first...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmkTnDYbny4

    And another...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dl3mSoSXujI

  12. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by n20capri View Post
    Your only revving the car to 4k. Spin that sucker up to 6k!!!! Your BARELY getting in to boost.

    Here are some vids of mine...nothing special - 14.0@97 but you get the idea...

    In this one I blow the tires off in first...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmkTnDYbny4

    And another...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dl3mSoSXujI
    But why? If you can see theres no speed at 4000 rpm And the boost is at the top... Theres no point talking the car to 6000 if is not at Its best.. It will overboost.. I ve done it before.. It doesnt get better than that.

  13. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by rogelioifmradio View Post
    But why? If you can see theres no speed at 4000 rpm And the boost is at the top... Theres no point talking the car to 6000 if is not at Its best.. It will overboost.. I ve done it before.. It doesnt get better than that.
    the car should not overboost, it is regulated by the wastegate, should go to its max setting then stay there, maybe thats your problem

  14. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by quickerstang View Post
    the car should not overboost, it is regulated by the wastegate, should go to its max setting then stay there, maybe thats your problem
    In sorry , When i meant overboost i was talking about the 17 psi i regulate on my gillis valve . I have reved the car before.. It reaches the buzz alarm ..it doesnt get better that what you see in the vídeos

  15. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by rogelioifmradio View Post
    In sorry , When i meant overboost i was talking about the 17 psi i regulate on my gillis valve . I have reved the car before.. It reaches the buzz alarm ..it doesnt get better that what you see in the vídeos
    then do as I stated in the other post's, it is easy to do and may be your problem

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by n20capri View Post
    In this one I blow the tires off in first...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmkTnDYbny4

    And another...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dl3mSoSXujI
    Okay, that's just rubbing salt in my wound of a nice 9L hood blasting away and my car sits stored as it winter outside!

    Quote Originally Posted by rogelioifmradio View Post
    But why? If you can see theres no speed at 4000 rpm And the boost is at the top... Theres no point talking the car to 6000 if is not at Its best.. It will overboost.. I ve done it before.. It doesnt get better than that.
    What are you describing as overboost? When mine was acting strange (losing boost) it was only a loose hose between intercooler and the intake.

    Quote Originally Posted by quickerstang View Post
    the car should not overboost, it is regulated by the wastegate, should go to its max setting then stay there, maybe thats your problem
    I had my floor mat get caught and had the pedal floored for a couple of seconds once (with no load) and it did stay there around 6K until i got it unstuck! Not desirable sustained ay 6K though.

  17. #42

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    Well if I shift my car at 4k it feels slow too. These cars w/o the turbo have less than 100hp and are dogs. You need to be in the boost. Down low like that they will feel slow. As mentioned if I just shifted at 4k it would be horrible. When I spin it higher it feels awesome. Again not saying there isn't something wrong...just an observation...

  18. #43

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    check for vaccum at idle, I think that you may be leaking out boost between the intake and head

  19. #44
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    I'm hearing the intake pressure build up... but no turbo "jet" whine... almost like it has high back pressure?

    It's hard to tell but sounds like either low fuel pressure, or an exhaust restriction.

    That's just my guess.... hard to tell...

  20. #45

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    It sure looks like/sounds like you're letting off the gas because of overboost instead of engine rpm. Are you placing your trust in the stock boost gauge? Who's to say the stock gauge was ever accurate? Get a real boost gauge with a scale that goes up to around 30psi and see how much boost you're actually getting. Letting off the gas isn't the best way to regulate boost, your wastegate should open on it's own and you should be shifting when the engine reaches redline. If the wastegate isn't opening you need to fix it.
    1986 Mustang Notch, 2.3L Turbo Project

  21. #46

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    If you have a air compressor take the vacuum hose off that goes to waste gate and blow air into it to see if waste gate is working. should see the rod move
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1986 Bronco 351ho
    VP Berks County Mustang Car Club
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2462250

  22. #47

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy2.3Mustang View Post
    It sure looks like/sounds like you're letting off the gas because of overboost instead of engine rpm. Are you placing your trust in the stock boost gauge? Who's to say the stock gauge was ever accurate? Get a real boost gauge with a scale that goes up to around 30psi and see how much boost you're actually getting. Letting off the gas isn't the best way to regulate boost, your wastegate should open on it's own and you should be shifting when the engine reaches redline. If the wastegate isn't opening you need to fix it.
    You aré right.. I am leting the gas go.. But then again... I should have Had speed with the boost you saw.. I really dont think is a mater of driving maners.. All that boost And no speed ? Theres definetly something wrong with the car

  23. #48

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    well at least try something that one of us told you? Take some of the advice and apply it

  24. #49
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quickerstang View Post
    well at least try something that one of us told you? Take some of the advice and apply it
    I agree and your vacuum leak suspicion is as good as any....

    What he needs is to test one system at a time scientifically. I'm feeling he isn't very mechanically inclined (?) so our guessing isn't going to help him.... I think he should probably take it to a Ford dealer for a diagnoses.

  25. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by PaceFever79 View Post
    I agree and your vacuum leak suspicion is as good as any....

    What he needs is to test one system at a time scientifically. I'm feeling he isn't very mechanically inclined (?) so our guessing isn't going to help him.... I think he should probably take it to a Ford dealer for a diagnoses.
    Please dont get me wrong.. i really apreciate all your comments i am sure with all your help i will get the car runing the way it should. ok.. i will go one step at the time, as the car is my dayli driver . i will check the fuel presure while runing, i will check gas lines also, i will check the timimg at 10* , to check vacuum leak between intake and head how should i do this? someone here said something about spraying carb cleaner to see if there was vacuum leak.
    i will check the cat too, you guys have been very helpful ..i will start tomorrow and will post the result as soon as i get to do it. i am not a mechanic as you can see, but i have had 4 fox mustangs ,3 of them v8s all of them carburated so i know a bit about engines and mechanics , this is my first svo so with all the vacuums and sensors and all that technical terms i am having a hard time to find a solution.!
    thanks again!!

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