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Thread: computer stuff

  1. #51

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    no it never ran good since ive had it. i heard it got passed around alot becouse no one could get it to run good, an before that somebody put 15 grand into the motor stroking it out, roller rocker top end, the systemax intake manifold an radical cam an alot more. but didnt get the efi set up right


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  2. #52

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    o and its been stolen so the steering column is busted an i start it with a screwdriver, they stole the stereo and they stole the cold air intake setup wich i think had a maf.


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  3. #53

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    Wow!! With so many people having hands on that car there's no telling whats wrong or has been changed. To keep the EFI the entire wiring system needs to be checked for hacking because a couple of wires can make or break the EFI from working properly. It could be something simple or something major but you'll have to decide if your up to the task of jumping in and finding the problem and fixing it. Going carb want be hard if you want to go that route if your good with carb set ups.

  4. #54

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    Quote Originally Posted by nigel View Post
    they stole the cold air intake setup wich i think had a maf.
    Unless the computer has been tuned to eliminate the MAF, then you need one.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.

  5. #55

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    I think tracing the wiring will be easy enough and should be your first step. You already have the computer out so it's only a matter of looking...check the link below...start at #2a-d - those 4 steps. Find the pins they are referencing and see if they have been messed with. From there follow the rest - if the car doesn't have cruise control you can skip the Vehicle Speed Sensor stuff.

    http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html

    You should be able to tell right away if the car is converted. If nothing appears to have been tampered with perhaps swapping back to the DA1 will be the answer. Maybe someone though simply swapping to a mass air computer would convert the car to mass air????? If it appears to have been messed with in any way then investigate further - figure out what was fiddled with and finish the conversion. Also finding the actual mass air sensor harness and plugging in a meter is important!

    If you get to this point there are still other things you'll need to verify. You'll need to know what injectors are in the car and get a mass air meter that is calibrated appropriately. I know it sounds like a lot of info but go slow and get a baseline to where the car is at then move forward from there.

  6. #56

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    it seems so much easier to just buy a new manifold and put a big carb on it i got some in the shop


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  7. #57

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    well i got the da1 in the mail today so i swapped out the computers an took it for a drive. the first thing i noticed is it doesent want to idle it just dies but i think its alot better performance wise: less hesitation, more predictable and even performance. but the problem wher it goes up to 2000-2800 RPMs is still ther.


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  8. #58

  9. #59

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    no, i have to find out wats causing the rpms to stick first. an its not the computer cus it does the same thing with both computers


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  10. #60

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    is ther a check engine light in 86 5.0s and if so wer is it? i took apart the dash an cant find one. i need to see it for the diagnostic codes


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  11. #61

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    No check engine light.

    You have three ways to do it.

    1. Plug a code reader into the STI and STO and get the codes
    2. Jumper the STI and STO with a test light and count the flashes
    3. Jumper the STI and STO with an analog VOM and count the needle sweeps
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  12. #62

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    ill just do it with the test light. youd think they would put one on the little car picture with all the lights on it that tells you wats wrong with the car

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