Battery not charging

[SmallTires]

I will check again tomorrow and update here.

[grabbergreen84]

There is also a tiny "push rod" which lives behind the Neutral Drive Switch, and is easily lost.
Might be kind of a pain, but you might want to check the installed switch with a test light or continuity tester, and make sure that it is functioning properly in the first place. (With a beeping continuity tester hooked up under the car, you can be in the car moving the shifter through the various gears and neutral, and find out if it works.)

Either way, you can jumper the corresponding pins on the harness which connects to the Neutral Switch, and that should make the EEC believe that the car is in neutral. You need this specific input to the computer, for it to even attempt the Key On Engine Running test. No KOER codes, without resolving a 67 in KOEO.

It's likely that you're pretty close to getting it all working right.

[JACook]

So... I hate when things don't make sense, so I did a bit more digging...

Everything I can find tells me the '86 5-speed GT does NOT have the Neutral Gear Sensor, it has
a top gear switch for the shift light circuit instead. The T5 will have one or the other, not both.

The wiring diagrams also show that the '86 5.0 ECU does not have the NGS input. Instead, the
diagrams show that ECU input pin 30, that is used for NGS on other models, is supposed to be
connected to the ignition switch instead. That connection should only be live when the ignition
switch is in the Start position.

So it seems the code 67 may be related to your hacked up start circuit.

One thing you have to keep in mind about trouble codes on these cars- Unlike the standardized
OBD-2 codes, the EEC-IV OBD-1 codes can mean very different things depending on application.
So, for example, a 67 could mean a NGS failure, or depending on year, model and engine, a 67
could mean clutch safety switch failure instead. Or it could mean the A/C was on during the test.

You need to back-probe the white/pink wire that connects to pin 30 of the ECU. Pin 30 is in the
center row, right next to the the connector bolt. That pin should only show voltage when the
ignition is in the Start position.

[SmallTires]

So I went and bought a test light. I haven't really ever had to use one but the concept is easy enough to understand and use. I bought one of the light and sound ones as I am a one person work crew on this and didn't want to be running from underdash to engine compartment to see what the results of checking fuses were. First I checked to see how and where my battery drain was coming from. With the key off and out of the ignition, and door closed, which should mean there is nothing draining the system except for maybe a small drain provided by the ecu I began my search. I hooked the test light lead to the positive battery terminal connection on the harness and touched the probe to the positive battery terminal I got a VERY bright light and a very loud ringing sound out of it. It actually startled me. So clearly I have a drain somewhere based on that feedback as to my understanding the feedback is based on circuit power demand. Next I decided to check the fuse panel. First thing I found was a broken, what I would guess is fuse. It is pictured in the lower left in the attached pictures. I can't imagine that being good. Second I started pulling fuses to possibly see where I may have had drain issues coming from. The only fuse I pulled which made a difference was the upper right 30amp fuse in the box. I need to find a diagram for the fuse box to determine what it does as none are labeled and the fuse block says see owners manual, which is long gone for this car. When I pulled this fuse the sound immediately went from near ear splitting to a soft buzzing and the light dimmed drastically on the tester. Keep in mind after I pulled fuses I closed the door on the vehicle to rule out that the dome light would have been adding to the issue. The only known problem I have in terms of lighting is my glove box light which refuses to shut off due to the glove box not wanting to close. However it wouldn't drain the battery as quickly as it did this last time. So this is where I am at, at the moment. I will address the ECU pinout after I get this squared away. Pics attached below.

[SmallTires]

grrrrrr my internet service provider is on the fritz and I am not able to upload pictures at this time.

[SmallTires]

Found a diagram the hazard warning light assembly is toasted. That was the round thing I was talking about. The secondary fuse was in position number 8 on the box which indicates cigarette lighter, horn fuse. There is no console in the car at the moment. The car did at one point have a cheap security system in it. Could this be part of my issue? Maybe it was wired incorrectly? I ripped the security alarm horn from the engine bay long before I ever started the car as it didn't even appeared to be wired up. The key fob works the door lock actuators still though. But the car starts up and the lights don't flash so I have assumed it was never on the begin with.

[SmallTires]

Why do I get the distinct feeling I am going to have to rip the dash out and fix all the wiring behind it....

[Domino]

I would start with checking out any wires that are cut, spliced, taped or just look sketchy. There is nothing worse than sketchy wiring. Well, maybe infected wires. Yeah, those are worse. That round thing sounds like a standard flasher. Those are cheap and available at any parts store. It should be the standard 552 flasher.

[SmallTires]

Well i got the dash partially out. What I found is an utter nightmare. Especially for someone like me whio is a novice with vehicle electrical wiring. Between a hack job alarm install and an equally bad stereo install there isn't a single wire that isn't tapped or modified it looks like. A major source of my ekectrical problem is the alarm, no doubts about it. Once i removed the alarm fuses the tester indicated the drain on the system dropped drastically. Also all sorts of wires were frayed, exposed, and randomly tied together from a horrible stereo install at some point in the cars life. It is so bad I am driving three hours north tomorrow morning to search wrecking yards for a proper steering column and possibly find another uncut harness. Is there any difference between interior wiring harnesses other than manual and auto vehicles? If i can't find one i guess i will be spending alot of time with a factory wiring diagram repairing sections of harness with the entire dash out.

[grabbergreen84]

I am driving three hours north tomorrow morning to search wrecking yards for a proper steering column and possibly find another uncut harness. Is there any difference between interior wiring harnesses other than manual and auto vehicles? If i can't find one i guess i will be spending alot of time with a factory wiring diagram repairing sections of harness with the entire dash out.

It might be easier to repair what you have. After the alarm is all gone, you shouldn't have too much to repair. With the stereo, there will be a bunch of wires - at least 12, but those aren't that hard to sort out, with a multimeter and a decent wiring diagram for your specific vehicle.

I can't believe there aren't any good junk yards in Bakersfield.

[Domino]

As far as interchangeability goes I am running a dash harness from a V6 car with all of the V8 engine harness.

[SmallTires]

Well my trip up north didn't yeild anything in way of wiring. There were two 86 GTs I found. One hatch and one convertible. Sadly both had wiring harness issues exactly like mine. By that I mean alarms and stereo wiring issues. I think I will just have to patiently repair mine at this point. I am starting to understand why there are so few fox bodies left on the road. Seems about everyone of them has been modified/hacked into oblivion.
S

[HELMUT RONER]

Have you made any new progress on this? I'm fiddling with a fusible link issue, hot/no-start issue, sky-high idle issue, and I'm about to roll this 86 ASC Capri of mine into the Tampa Bay. Wiring on mine, too, has been hacked up with piss-poor soldering.