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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbohm View Post
    more like semi gloss iirc.
    There is no info out there I can find. I guess I am just going to have to pick something.
    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    I think this is my favorite car on the site right now.
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    This is the best thread on the internet.
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  2. #52
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    Default Block Heater Element

    Any idea if these can just have the o-ring replaced or if a whole replacement is available? This was the only picture I had on hand of it.

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  3. #53
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    Default Timing gear choices

    With only 50k km the OEM timing gears with the fibre type cam gear are in quite good shape.

    Is it advisable to just change them now? If I replace them are the metal ones worth the extra money and better in the long run?

    I probably answered my,own question but another opinion or reason is always good.

  4. #54

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    I would do it since you are there. I skipped it once on a 302, the cam gear got brittle, a piece made it into the oil pump, and instead of just a timing chain issue, I smoked a whole motor.

  5. #55
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    Started taking the 2150 carb apart for rebuild. Fun times

    Where is a good place to get OEM cooling hoses for these? One local place can only get three of four. They couldn't source the u-turn hose.

    I would like to see if I could get something close to Motorcraft replacements if not Motorcraft.

    Thanks.

  6. #56

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    Don't sweat the carb too bad. Not alot of moving parts to worry about there.

  7. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    Any idea if these can just have the o-ring replaced or if a whole replacement is available? This was the only picture I had on hand of it.

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    Should be able to replace just the o-ring, if the element still has continuity.

  8. #58

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    After reading the previous posts, I would say, go cast rings (cheap, easy to seal up), upgrade the cam if you can, but go the smaller of the two (when in doubt between two cams on a street car, ALWAYS go the smaller of the two) and I would get the springs from Comp too. I would guess if you aren't racing this it won't see much past 5000rpm, so I wouldn't worry much, heck if it were me I'd pass on balancing for now. There is more to gain from the cam and a 4bbl, and still not have to worry about it IMO.

    I just bought an 83 Ranger with a 2.8 in it, I'll experiment with some. I should've kept the 2.8 from my 79 Mustang too! I'm a sucker for oddball V6's, my last project was a 3.8 V6 Turbo 79 Lesabre. It was a draw-through with a carb. Talk about interesting.

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by iraceitall View Post
    Don't sweat the carb too bad. Not alot of moving parts to worry about there.
    First timer A little scary with all of the small parts. Maybe a lot don't move but they are small.

    Quote Originally Posted by iraceitall View Post
    Should be able to replace just the o-ring, if the element still has continuity.
    Unfortunately it's come apart. I'm trying to get a NOS E2 one off eBay. Shipping kills me

    Quote Originally Posted by iraceitall View Post
    After reading the previous posts, I would say, go cast rings (cheap, easy to seal up), upgrade the cam if you can, but go the smaller of the two (when in doubt between two cams on a street car, ALWAYS go the smaller of the two) and I would get the springs from Comp too. I would guess if you aren't racing this it won't see much past 5000rpm, so I wouldn't worry much, heck if it were me I'd pass on balancing for now. There is more to gain from the cam and a 4bbl, and still not have to worry about it IMO.

    I just bought an 83 Ranger with a 2.8 in it, I'll experiment with some. I should've kept the 2.8 from my 79 Mustang too! I'm a sucker for oddball V6's, my last project was a 3.8 V6 Turbo 79 Lesabre. It was a draw-through with a carb. Talk about interesting.
    We are going to use the stock cam. The second generation owner at the head shop doing the rebuild of them figured it was fine even with the four barrel. Went with cast rings and stock(ish) springs. Waiting for that stuff plus the bearings and the gasket set to arrive. I swear everything is minimum two weeks away for this stuff. Balancing will not be done as that money financed the Offy and 4 bbl

    4:10 gears, traction-loc and a four speed will help in the coming years.

  10. #60
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    Has anyone ever drilled the 2.8 heads for the extra cooling ports? Recommendations are for where the two exhaust valves are side by side.

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    Has anyone ever drilled the 2.8 heads for the extra cooling ports? Recommendations are for where the two exhaust valves are side by side.
    Well according to the rebuild book's recommendation, I should use a Victor head gasket for a template. Here are the instructions and pictures.




    I used the Fel-Pro gasket instead. Not the same shape or size, but the location is correct.




    Seems legit. Just leery drilling into a head and wondering if it is worth it. Heating in between the two exhaust port can cause premature valve seal failure and in extreme circumstances valve seat issues also. The book stated 5/16" diameter holes but the gasket port is around 3/8" which should work out fine then. A little coolant is better than none I suppose.

    Thoughts on doing this?

    Last edited by 82GTforME; 04-27-2014 at 08:48 AM.

  12. #62

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    Measure 1" on the bit and put a piece of tape there for a guide, and go for it.

  13. #63
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    Thanks Joe. I needed some reassurance from someone who has had a little more engine experience than me.

  14. #64
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    I still have to do the valve lash clearances and had to get the timing gears on. I had a bit of trouble getting the crank gear on. Some polishing of the shaft and gear, filing the key a hair (and a few times getting on slightly and having to use a puller to get it off ) and heating the sprocket in the oven got it on. I am not convinced it is on quite far enough although I could not, with two attempts get it on further. Everything is undamaged by sight. I am thinking when the crank pulley gets installed and torqued on it will slide the gear on if it needs to go more

    Any opinions? I think this is the first attampt putting it on and the second is (very) slightly better.



  15. #65
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    Default Connector sleeves?

    Are new ones required and if they should be are they easy to locate? The ones on the block look completely fine.


  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    I am not convinced it is on quite far enough although I could not, with two attempts get it on further.
    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    Are new ones required and if they should be are they easy to locate? The ones on the block look completely fine.
    Any feedback on these couple of questions? I've avoided putting the front cover and more together based on the unknowns about the cam gear.

    Thanks

  17. #67
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    It doesn't look that far off, but, I think it's supposed to be more aligned than that. It kind of looks like there might be a nipple not fitting into a hole on the cam gear, or something like that. I haven't taken mine off, so I can't say for sure. I'll see if I can find something in my service manual about the alignment.
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  18. #68
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    Okay, what I found is this:

    There should be a spacer ring (chamfered side towards camshaft), a thrust plate, a washer, a key, and a camshaft sprocket. To provide for end play adjustments, the spacer ring and thrust plate are available in two thicknesses.

    Hope that helps.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
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  19. #69
    FEP Power Member Ethyl Cat's Avatar
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    Is there a chamfer on the crank gear where it meets the crank? The crank has a fillet on the base of the snout and if the gear has no chamfer, it will stop about right there.

    Glad to see this thing coming together, by the way. Hope the book is helping.

    Can you take a pisture of the exhaust port side of the heads and post them? There might be a better way to get that hot coolant out of the head.

    Steve
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  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    Are new ones required and if they should be are they easy to locate? The ones on the block look completely fine.

    If they look good, run em'

    Steve
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  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by IDMooseMan View Post
    Okay, what I found is this:

    There should be a spacer ring (chamfered side towards camshaft), a thrust plate, a washer, a key, and a camshaft sprocket. To provide for end play adjustments, the spacer ring and thrust plate are available in two thicknesses.

    Hope that helps.
    Thanks Craig. The cam gear and everything went together the same as it came apart. I didn't take close enough pictures in the tear down to know for sure. I positive it's the crank gear, not the camshaft.

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ethyl Cat View Post
    Is there a chamfer on the crank gear where it meets the crank? The crank has a fillet on the base of the snout and if the gear has no chamfer, it will stop about right there.

    Glad to see this thing coming together, by the way. Hope the book is helping.

    Can you take a pisture of the exhaust port side of the heads and post them? There might be a better way to get that hot coolant out of the head.

    Steve
    Hey Steve, good to hear from you! The crank gear is chamfered but doesn't appear to be binding. It just stops. I've filed the key and emery clothed the shaft and gear hub, then heated it to get it on this far. I'm thinking it's good but I will try again before I cover it up. Strangely suspicious that the end of the crank may have been 'bumped' at the machine shop to mushroom a teeny spot and make it difficult.

    That's a good book to help get my thought on track. Too bad the body work is taking precedent right now!

    Holes are drilled already of course as per the book. I'll try to get some soon of the exhaust port to show.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ethyl Cat View Post
    If they look good, run em'

    Steve
    That's kinda what I was thinking

  23. #73
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    Question: After being assembled in the shop (and lubed however they would do it during short blocking) and my attempts to put the gears on, I haven't rotated the assambly in a couple of months. Do I need to do anything or can it be rotated without worry?

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    Question: After being assembled in the shop (and lubed however they would do it during short blocking) and my attempts to put the gears on, I haven't rotated the assambly in a couple of months. Do I need to do anything or can it be rotated without worry?
    It will be fine to spin it some, assuming it was lubricated properly from the builder. Just make sure you prime it for several minutes while turning it over occasionally before start up.
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  25. #75
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    The hard returns don't hold places in the chart below, so I'll have to rejig it later. But the US 2.8 head at its maximum valve lift flows about 17% more air than the 3.0 Essex 138 hp engine!

    The 74-83 2.8 US head flows better than the United Kingdoms Essex 60 degree V6 D port head used on all 73 to 81 British 138 hp 2-bbl DGAS3A carbed engines.

    The US 2.8 is down 5 to 22 hp on the European 2.3, and 26 to 43 hp on the 135 hp 2.8, and for the time that the six port exhast was used on the Eurpean Granada 2.8 Injection, the US 2.8 was 51 to 70 hp down on that engine. In the first years, the 2.8 got a H-W 5200 carb to strangle it right down to make it a great economy engine in a Capri 2800. Then it got the 2150 Motorcraft in 1976, and then the illfated 2700 Motorcraft Variable Venturi. Whatever, it wasn't the cylinder heads that made the US engine a potential looser of 74% of its power, it was the cam and carburation and compression ratio. A factory 276 degree cam with 380 thou lift makes a big difference to the US cam.


    The Offenhauser is assured to increase a stock power rating 15 to 30% throught the rev range according to this. Thats 14 to 33 hp extra peak power.

    http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...97dp/overview/

    The 7% bigger Essex 3.0 UK V6 made 140 to 138 hp, with inferior flowing heads, and the same carburation as the 135 hp European 2.8. When modified with some dilligence, (and these two Cologne and Essex engines are responsive to modification, they lap it up like a 2-bbl smog 302 laps up a 4180c, headers, an intake, a cam, and a proper head that flows 15% more on itake and 30% more on exhaust. In fact, thats just with Pinto 2.0 valves, with bigger 1.75's, It would propably flow 46% more like a modified 3.0 Essex does with those valve sizes. If anything, the exhaust can stay as it is , and you could use a split lobe cam to do the rest.


    The Offenhauser intake is very badly matched for the stock intake, since it is designed for a ported head, and on its own with out head port work, the port missmatch won't make extra power. The manifold though is brilliant for creating power in all other respects.

    If a port mismatch is done with the Offy intake runners smaller than the cylinder head ports, you'll most liely get a better power result. The stock jetting of a 390 cfm 6299 part number 4150 4-bbl from Offenhausers extensive work on dyno and drag racing a 2800 engine is to go from 48 main jets to 52's. From 50 main jets to 53's, use a single stage 6.5 power valve, and open the PVCR from 21 thou to 40 thou in the primary metering block.



    Those long awaited head flow figures. I knew they would be in one of my 35 boxes of Engineering manuals. From three sources.

    1. Essex V6 Stan Weiss from his World Wide Enterprises showed little illumination to the existing figures from

    2. Peter Burgess and David Gollans "How to Build, Modify & Power Tune Cylinder Heads", a Veloce Publishing PLC book first published in 1997.

    Stan W has intelligently rescaled the 25"H20 UK flow figures from this publication to suit the 28" H20 SF flow bench rating convention. Any one understanding the diffrences between US and UK flow bench certification in accordance with European and British standards will understand why there is a 5.6% uniform difference between the figures quoted on page 85 of Burgess and Gollans book. Sadly, there are no exhaust figures.

    3. The figures for the Cologne US market 2.8 are using the US flow bench, and were around all the time, I just hadn't found them again. Bill Jones from Salt Lake City, in Utah, you da man!

    Porting the US market 2.8 head is a nightmare, same as the Essex 60 degree UK engine. Both intake and exhausts are variable, thin, and easily broken into

    All measurements taken at 25"H20, with bare castings, no manifolds


    ....... Stock US (74-83)........ Modified US (74-83) .... Modified US (74-83)....|....... Stock Essex 60 UK........... Modified Essex 60 UK
    ........2.8 6 port head...........2.8 6 port head................2.8 6 port head .......|.....3.0 D port head (73-81)..3.0 D port head (73-81).
    ........ Std 1.565 " Inlet....... Ported with Stock.........Ported with Pinto 2000..|........ Std Inlet..............Ported with Pinto 2000 1.75 " Valves
    ..........................................1.565 " Inlet Vales.........1.655" Valves ...........|.....92-109 BHP SAE Net........BHP Not Tested.....BHP Not Tested........| 138 BHP DIN net 220 BHP DIN Net
    . | 110 RWHP (Manual) 175 RWHP (Manual)
    . Lift
    . (thou')
    . 50 22 24.5 27 | 19.3 23.4
    . 100 44 49 54 | 39.7 (42) 46.4 (46)
    . 150 65 72 78.5 | 60.2 69.1
    . 200 86 95 103 | 76.6 (81) 89.7 (95)
    . 250 99 109.5 116.5 | 89.2 108.4
    . 300 112 124 130 | 94.9 (100) 124 (131)
    . 350 115 127.5 132.5 | 98.7 136.8
    . 400 118 131 135 | 101.1 (107) 143.6 (152)
    . 450 | 103.2 148.7
    . 500 | 104.0 (110) 152.1 (161)

    For the exhaust:-
    -

    . Stock US (74-83) Modified US (74-83) Modified US (74-83) | Stock Essex 60 UK Modified Essex 60 UK
    . 2.8 6 port head 2.8 6 port head 2.8 6 port head | 3.0 D port head (73-81) 3.0 D port head (73-81)
    . Std 1.565 " Inlet Ported with Stock Ported with Pinto 2000 | Std Ex Valves Ported with Pinto 2000 Ex Valves
    . 1.268 " Exhaust Vales 1.417" Ex Valves |
    . 92-109 BHP SAE Net BHP Not Tested BHP Not Tested | 138 BHP DIN net 220 BHP DIN Net
    . | 110 RWHP (Manual) 175 RWHP (Manual)
    . Lift
    . (thou')
    . 50 17.5 19.5 24 | NA NA
    . 100 35 39 48 | NA NA
    . 150 50 53.5-57 (All vary) 57.5 | NA NA
    . 200 65 68-75 (All vary) 87 | NA NA
    . 250 72.5 74-80.5 (All vary) 98 | NA NA
    . 300 80 80-86 (All vary) 109 | NA NA
    . 350 82.5 82.5-88.5(All vary) 109.5-114 (All vary) | NA NA
    . 400 85 85-91 (All vary) 110-119 (all vary) | NA NA
    . 450 | NA NA
    . 500 | NA NA



    For cams, see page 15 or 56, http://www.pipercams.co.uk/pipercams..._catalogue.pdf

    For head porting, see http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6210

    and http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...ad_porting.pdf

    For rebuilding post 1982 Euro engines, see http://faq.ford77.ru/pdf/scorpio/1245-02c.pdf

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