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  1. #1

    Default Door hinges pulling away from body, how to fix?

    On my 86 ssp, the hinge pins have had so much slop that the door drops a little when u open it....my father never fixed it...as a result the hinges appear to be seperating from the body of the car...

    The door still shuts and lines up...but im worried when I get new pins in there it wont....

    Any ideas of how to correct this?

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4
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    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5,crate roller 5.0
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -1990 Bronco, 5.8 roller/AOD swap in progress, 4" rancho lift, 33's
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  2. #2

    Default

    Looks like someone hyperextended that door open, in the past.
    Either the drop from the A-piller, (where the car-side hinges attach) is bent, or the hinge brackets are bent. My money is on the thinner sheet metal where the thicker hinge brackets attach. You might be able to remove the fender and the hinges, and tap that area down with a hammer. It doesn't look too awful bad, I've seen them like that before.
    You can always swap in some different body-side hinge brackets, and I know they make hinge pin & bushing kits with larger outer-diameter bushings in case the bushing holes are wallowed out.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears, A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 300,000 in Fox Body cars.

  3. #3

    Default

    I would agree with the post above that the best option is to remove the fender and the door to gain clear access to the hinges and hinge post. It's possible the hinge is bent, but my guess would be most likely either corrosion or bolt elongating possibly due to rust. The top of the hinges seem to be a magnet for leaves, twigs, etc. coming out of the cowl area and getting stuck there and then rotting. Even on cars from relatively rust free areas can issues in these areas depending on where the car was parked or stored.

    The hinge post itself is actually pretty stout metal, although again the exterior sheet metal can begin to rust and cause issues like what you show. If you find rust or issues after removing the door and hinges, I would recommend treating and repairing as needed. If the hinge to body bolts are rusted or corroded, I would recommend replacements too. Then install new bushings and pins in the hinges and then reinstall and align the door. You should be good to go after all of that and not have any issues for a long time to come.

    Good Luck!

    Trey
    "I never drive faster than I can see, besides it's all in the reflexes!"

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  4. #4

    Default

    Thx for the help...its a so cal car..so rust is highly unlikely here thankfully...I have a friend who may have extra hinges..i think ill start there..and have them ready to go..along with a bfh if i gotta pound the piller straight....would it be wise to weld the hinges to the body when its all straight?

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5,crate roller 5.0
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -1990 Bronco, 5.8 roller/AOD swap in progress, 4" rancho lift, 33's
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  5. #5

    Default

    As I stated above, I have found rust in those areas even on vehicles that came from dry climates. I has more to do with where and how the car has been stored or parked. If parked under a tree or near trees that drop lots of leaves, those get down into the cowl and then when it's washed or rained on the stuff gets pushed out the drains on the sides of the cowls and the leaves, etc. can get caught on the hinges and sit there accumulating moisture and causing rust. May not be an issue for you at all, I was just stating that I have seen it many times on vehicles from AZ, NM, TX, and CO.

    I would not recommend welding the hinge to the body. If done, then the door can only be removed by removing the pins or cutting the hinge back off the body. The hinge post is a stout piece of metal and then you have the hinge backer plate inside that the bolts thread into. I have seen those get stripped out. You can either try and tap the threads again, replace it, or weld nuts onto the plate if severely damaged. The bolts that hold the doors on are probably a grade 3 bolt IIRC. Not really a big deal, but they can be damaged again due to rust, corrosion, aggressive impacts! Sometimes just replacing the bolts can make a huge improvement in the fit of the door.

    If a BFH is needed for straightening the post, I would recommend using a straight edge to make sure you don't go too far with it. Having the pillar in too far is much worse than out.

    Good Luck!

    Trey
    "I never drive faster than I can see, besides it's all in the reflexes!"

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member
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    Default

    I recently had that area repaired on my 86 Vert. I was doing a driving school and just as I went into a right-hander from a relatively high-speed straight, the D/S door latch mechanism failed. The door slammed open hyper-extending the hinge and bending the mount. When the door came back it popped past the fender and wouldn't open with out damaging the fender and door. About a $300 fix to the body mount. I had them install new pins and rollers on both doors while they were at it.

  7. #7
    FEP Member flyin5-o's Avatar
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    Default

    looks like the door was overextended to me as well. you might want to try this old bodyshop trick before taking apart panels whose fitament you are fairly happy with. Take a large deep well socket,I dont remember what size works on foxes wanna say 3/4", so you'll have to experiment. Put it in between the backside of the hinge so the door wont close and then use that as you "close" the door to bend the hinge back down.

  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member Purebreed1's Avatar
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    I will snap some picture from my car tonight for you. I had some rust issues on mine that the body shop took good care of. They used a larger dimension piece of fabricated metal to replace the factory piece beneath the hinge on the main support. Looks factory fresh.
    Crystal Lake Illinois
    1986 GT 306 S-trim, M2300k, Bullits 450rwhp

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Purebreed1 View Post
    I will snap some picture from my car tonight for you. I had some rust issues on mine that the body shop took good care of. They used a larger dimension piece of fabricated metal to replace the factory piece beneath the hinge on the main support. Looks factory fresh.
    I'd be interested in seeing how this area is repaired. Although unlikely, rust can still show up in Southern California cars.







    This is my '82 Cougar wagon. It had been garaged for 24 years and then parked outside for the next 6 years or so.
    Last edited by Dean_T; 10-09-2013 at 12:20 AM.
    Proud owner of the one and only Friggin' Futura

  10. #10

    Default

    Well I got lucky...friend had a mint manual door for me..molding, mirror, hinges and everything even same color ...my door has a huge dent, bad mirror, and missing molding...ill keep the original door to fix since it has my ssp unit number on it...but ill run this new door until I can afford paint and bodywork.

    Here is to hoping its bent hinges...ill update tomorrow

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5,crate roller 5.0
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -1990 Bronco, 5.8 roller/AOD swap in progress, 4" rancho lift, 33's
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    The reason why dry climate cars can still rust is they still got washed with water! Perhaps even a lot since the weather is always good. Anyway, it still amazes me what a crappy job Ford did coating and sealing the body welds on our cars.

  12. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PaceFever79 View Post
    Anyway, it still amazes me what a crappy job Ford did coating and sealing the body welds on our cars.
    Wait! Do you really think Ford is in the business of selling cars that last forever!

    Think about it, Ford is in the business of selling cars, if they did everything possible to make them last as long as possible they would be out of business in a short time.

    All joking aside it would have been nice if Ford had done a better job of sealing and coating the Fox bodies.

    Trey
    "I never drive faster than I can see, besides it's all in the reflexes!"

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  13. #13

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    Ill be honest..compared to my 66 mustang and 72 maverick, my 86 ssp has been way more rust resistant

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5,crate roller 5.0
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -1990 Bronco, 5.8 roller/AOD swap in progress, 4" rancho lift, 33's
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  14. #14

    Default

    Well replaced the door today..learned a few things...the piller that the door bolts to is no thicker than the hinges...

    What bent was the piller, not the hinges..and the backing plates behind them...I was able to get to the bottom and mostly pound the piller straight...someday before paint ill fix the original door..then take the dash off..this will give me access to the top mount on the piller so I can pound it straight..the fine finish the bottom one too.

    Good news is despite the hinge piller being still slightly tweaked, the new door lines up great, hell even paint matches lol..ive got to work on my gaps a little, but thats difficult with a 100 pound door and no helper..

    The hinges are tight on this door, and I have a mirror again finally...now I just have to swap the key lock and tan door panel over.

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5,crate roller 5.0
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -1990 Bronco, 5.8 roller/AOD swap in progress, 4" rancho lift, 33's
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  15. #15

    Default

    Final pic with new door and hinges showing bottom one straighter sin e i pounded the piller, and the crooked top one...anyone local want a free manual porno red dr door panel before I trash it?

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5,crate roller 5.0
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -1990 Bronco, 5.8 roller/AOD swap in progress, 4" rancho lift, 33's
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  16. #16

    Default

    Pressure washed the engine so I can go throught my vacuum lines and not get caked with grease....prepping it for smog...this little ol ssp is coming back to life



    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5,crate roller 5.0
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -1990 Bronco, 5.8 roller/AOD swap in progress, 4" rancho lift, 33's
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  17. #17

    Default

    doesnt quite match

    need to swap the chrome!
    Looking for a Fox wagon

  18. #18

    Default

    Right you are...thought something looked different....or just delete the rest of the chrome.

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5,crate roller 5.0
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -1990 Bronco, 5.8 roller/AOD swap in progress, 4" rancho lift, 33's
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  19. #19

    Default

    Looks good!

    A floor jack to help support the back of the door is usually how I did my installs and adjustments. You can raise the jack just enough to take the majority of weight so the door can be moved around to align the gaps.

    Good Luck!

    Trey
    "I never drive faster than I can see, besides it's all in the reflexes!"

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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