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  1. #1126
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    I have a question about pre-painting and the order of the way I should do things.

    I think this was my plan:

    1. Prime, base and one clear coat under the fenders and hood.
    2. Prime, base and clear the out sides of the hood, fenders and front cover.
    3. Repaint the trim on the front cover.
    4. Prime and base where required engine compartment. Re-clear a majority under the hood/front end.
    5. Reassemble and hope for no damage.

    So the question is, would I be wise to slightly change the order:

    1. Do the undersides of the fenders and hood.
    2. Do the engine compartment.
    3. Install the fenders and hood and spray them on the car?

    There is also this mess to deal with that was not exposed with the panel on the first go-round. How should I approach this? It looks like a bit of work to prep! This is why I'm tempted to spray the panels in place! Then I can ignore it

    Ignore the white, that was from when I polished prior and should wipe up.




    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...tigmm.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...3tmvc.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...usyf1.jpg.html
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:39 AM.

  2. #1127
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    I think it comes down to personal preference and comfort level. I prefer to paint assembled because I'm always afraid of chipping paint during reassembly.

    But there are others (Trey) that likes to paint disassembled and then assemble once everything painted.

  3. #1128
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    Quote Originally Posted by JTurbo View Post
    I think it comes down to personal preference and comfort level. I prefer to paint assembled because I'm always afraid of chipping paint during reassembly.

    But there are others (Trey) that likes to paint disassembled and then assemble once everything painted.
    Thanks Joe. I know Davedacarpainter is painting in many (many) pieces and that Ed - BMWRider's coupe has the similar thing happening so far too.

    I think I'm worried about the orange tones somehow not matching due to the most minute mixing proportions differences at each application! That as much as chips putting it together! Once I get a little more experience and confidence behind me I'm sure either way will work in the future!

  4. #1129
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    So I was supposed to be off last week using up some carry forward vacation days from last year. Productivity was not what I had really planned. While Monday was a holiday, I ended up having to go in most of the day Tuesday and part of the day on Thursday afternoon because we're quite busy.

    It was colder outside too (stupid groundhog and his six more weeks of winter!) so no real painting opportunity on that. Plus, we had been looking around and we upgraded my wife's 2003 Jetta to a 2011 Escape, so I was busier than I expected!

    The only two real gains on the car I had were:

    I have the bumper cover repair body work complete. The smallest external misalignment at the repair was tough for me to get rid of with the urethane challenging to level out. Plus the tough location.

    I spent a number of hours cleaning and washing under the wheel wells as well as the entire front and engine bay. I took the time to detail and wipe down all of the suspension again while I was at it. Amazing what a few drives in the rain and 1600 miles can do in a short while! We also had a couple of small coolant hose, steering rack fitting, fuel clamp amd oil sender leaks after we had it on the road so it took a while to clean it good enough to where I can now sand and then paint /clear the areas again.

    I think I have it figured where I need to sand and paint and then where I need to clear after. Can the camber plates be removed with the struts still on the spindle? This would help to minimize masking.

    What a difference. So bright!


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...fx1to.jpg.html
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:39 AM.

  5. #1130

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    Honestly, painting parts off is conditional for me. On a complete that will get the exact same treatment on all parts, it's not too risky unless the color you're using has a large metallic in it, then you have to worry about flake orientation (how the flake lays down due to varying angles).

    But if I'm blending from a panel that is new and has sealer sprayed on it, let's say your fender, to a panel such as your door, I would feel more comfortable spraying with it on the car. Especially with orange, it's fairly transparent. Though i would feather the sealer at the front edge of the door just to make the color appear equal in coverage between the panels.

    Some colors are not a problem, such as black. Orange might be a problem for you though.

    Odds are that the new paint won't be a perfect butt match to what you sprayed the first time around. Even if you have enough left over from the first time around it's problematic trying to match how you sprayed the first time.

    I removed my camber plates when I sprayed my engine bay of my '86. I jacked up the front end of the car to remove the weight off of them first and used jack stands under the front bumper while i was paintingName:  IMG_1257.jpg
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  6. #1131
    FEP Power Member 81coupe's Avatar
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    Been following a while now, Great work.
    1981 Mustang Coupe: Rebuilt 91/306, Ported E7's, TF Spring kit, E-303 Cam, RPM Intake, Eddy 1406 Carb, FMS Dual Roller Timing set, March UD pulleys, Summit LT Headers, Summit 2-1/2" Chambered Mufflers w/ 2-1/2" FlowTech H-Pipe/ Flowtubes & 2-1/2" LMR SS Tailpipes. C4 trans with 8.8/ 2.73 Rear.

  7. #1132
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    I have a question about pre-painting and the order of the way I should do things.

    I think this was my plan:

    1. Prime, base and one clear coat under the fenders and hood.
    2. Prime, base and clear the out sides of the hood, fenders and front cover.
    3. Repaint the trim on the front cover.
    4. Prime and base where required engine compartment. Re-clear a majority under the hood/front end.
    5. Reassemble and hope for no damage.

    So the question is, would I be wise to slightly change the order:

    1. Do the undersides of the fenders and hood.
    2. Do the engine compartment.
    3. Install the fenders and hood and spray them on the car?

    There is also this mess to deal with that was not exposed with the panel on the first go-round. How should I approach this? It looks like a bit of work to prep! This is why I'm tempted to spray the panels in place! Then I can ignore it

    Ignore the white, that was from when I polished prior and should wipe up.
    If the areas under the fenders are not bare metal and don't have any possible issues that could lead to rust or deterioration later on, then you can leave them alone, save paint, time, and effort. Otherwise painting them would be a good idea.

    I personally would paint the engine bay and the areas under the fenders at the same time as I see no benefit to doing them separately. That will just cost you time and extra masking.

    If you have the room available, I would also shoot the underside of the hood and any jamming on the fenders at the same time, again to save time, materials, etc. but you might not have enough room to paint everything at once when laid out.

    I agree with JTurbo and Dave that painting the rest of the car assembled may be your best option for blending the color and saving any possible chips, scratches, etc.

    I personally like to blow the car apart and paint everything separate generally because I don't do a lot of blends or repairs, but rather complete repaints. I have done some blends and repairs and often it is easier to blend with everything together.

    Honestly the other reason I generally paint in pieces is that I HATE masking everything off to prevent overspray!
    Last edited by wraithracing; 03-05-2017 at 08:00 PM. Reason: Spelling
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

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    Current Mustangs:
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  8. #1133

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    Lol, +1 to what Trey says, especially that last line!

  9. #1134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    But if I'm blending from a panel that is new and has sealer sprayed on it, let's say your fender, to a panel such as your door, I would feel more comfortable spraying with it on the car. Especially with orange, it's fairly transparent. Though i would feather the sealer at the front edge of the door just to make the color appear equal in coverage between the panels.

    Some colors are not a problem, such as black. Orange might be a problem for you though.

    Odds are that the new paint won't be a perfect butt match to what you sprayed the first time around. Even if you have enough left over from the first time around it's problematic trying to match how you sprayed the first time.
    I'm going to need some advise on how to fix the chipped front edge of the passenger door. Blending may be a challenge for me. If I can get it to look decent by blending it in I'll try it. The plan wasn't to redo the entire thing.

    I did have to do one blend in repair the first go round which turned out not bad. Yup, burned through on the polishing on the curve! (this piture is after re-prepping). I used a blending solvent rather than reclear the entire rear quarter which would normally be the recommended method.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...jchsf.jpg.html

    If a person looks close enough, there is a slight variation beside the original colour even with the same paint batch with just different mix times.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...7k83e.jpg.html

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    If the areas under the fenders are not bare metal and don't have any possible issues that could lead to rust or deterioration later on, then you can leave them alone, save paint, time, and effort. Otherwise painting them would be a good idea.

    I personally would paint the engine bay and the areas under the fenders at the same time as I see no benefit to doing them separately. That will just cost you time and extra masking.

    If you have the room available, I would also shoot the underside of the hood and any jamming on the fenders at the same time, again to save time, materials, etc. but you might not have enough room to paint everything at once when laid out.

    I agree with JTurbo and Dave that painting the rest of the car assembled may be your best option for blending the color and saving any possible chips, scratches, etc.

    I personally like to blow the car apart and paint everything separate generally because I don't do a lot of blends or repairs, but rather complete repaints. I have done some blends and repairs and often it is easier to blend with everything together.

    Honestly the other reason I generally paint in pieces is that I HATE masking everything off to prevent overspray!
    Thanks Trey. I agree with all of your points. They all make good sense. I have decided I will go this route. If it wasn't for the damage to that door edge, this would be much easier.

    Quote Originally Posted by 81coupe View Post
    Been following a while now, Great work.
    Thanks! I wish I wasn't doing it over again though! Trust me!
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:40 AM.

  10. #1135
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    Default Small Progress.

    So with a distraction of having my son's inop car in the garage for a couple weekends, I never got much done on what I needed to do!

    The freezing cold snap ended early last week and yesterday was +15°C out. That and we had a great southwest Chinook wind. With snowmelt happening and the moist air, it made for a perfect draft through my garage plus very minimal dust in the air to get the first step of repainting done.

    The front cover still needs a little more work where I did the repair so I decided not to do that. Plus I didn't want to cram everything in and have a hard time getting around. I sure know the impacts of rubbing your body or an air hose along a freshly painted surface!

    Final tacking done:


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...eatlr.jpg.html

    Underside of the fenders got two base coats and the hood got three. I found three+ gives the right colour with the transparancy of the paint and the grey primer.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...w06mh.jpg.html

    The fenders received a light and a wet coat of clear while the hood got an additional wet coat.



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...enlxz.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...biscv.jpg.html

    Working on the undersides gave me the chance to retune my newly learned painting skills. I find that I take to it well and get good results. It feels quite natural actually and my confidence is way higher than it used to be! Maybe I should be quiet before I jinx myself!

    Next, on to the sanding and prep in the engine compartment.
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:42 AM.

  11. #1136

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    Blending isn't difficult.

    First, i would feather out the chips on the edge of the door and primer them. Then block them flat just like an area with bodywork.

    When you blend the color out on the door you simply start to rotate the gun as your spraying toward the back of the door and left off the trigger as you get close to having the gun parallel to the door. Also, the blend "line" (the point that you are letting off the trigger as you blend) needs to be staggered to help hide the differences in paint color.

    You will want to start by blending out about 6" at the top of the door and by the time you reach the bottom you'll want to have gone into the door a good foot and a half or possibly more. Start with your first couple coats just evenly blending out over the edge of the door. When you get closer to coverage, blend out one coat to the farthest extent you intend to have the blend go and then work your way back to the front in the successive coats to achieve coverage.

    The problem I see you having is with using orange. Orange doesn't cover very well. Do you remember how many coats of the color you originally put on the car? I bet you'll be surprised that it will take more to cover in a blend.

    I can explain all this pretty thoroughly in a couple minutes over the phone if you need. If you want me to call sometime, PM me.

    I assume your going to have more color mixed for you. I would take the can from the original paint with you and try to get them to mix EXACTLY like they did the first time. It only takes a little dribble extra of black dropping into the mix to make it look a bit different. Just explain to whomever is doing the mix what your situation is, that'll help them to stay focused in the mixing stage. It can be possible to mix exactly what they did the first time. The orange hasn't been on there long enough to have any fading issues from the sun.

  12. #1137

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    So with a distraction of having my son's inop car in the garage for a couple weekends, I never got much done on what I needed to do!

    The freezing cold snap ended early last week and yesterday was +15°C out. That and we had a great southwest Chinook wind. With snowmelt happening and the moist air, it made for a perfect draft through my garage plus very minimal dust in the air to get the first step of repainting done.

    The front cover still needs a little more work where I did the repair so I decided not to do that. Plus I didn't want to cram everything in and have a hard time getting around. I sure know the impacts of rubbing your body or an air hose along a freshly painted surface!

    Final tacking done:



    Underside of the fenders got two base coats and the hood got three. I found three+ gives the right colour with the transparancy of the paint and the grey primer.



    The fenders received a light and a wet coat of clear while the hood got an additional wet coat.




    Working on the undersides gave me the chance to retune my newly learned painting skills. I find that I take to it well and get good results. It feels quite natural actually and my confidence is way higher than it used to be! Maybe I should be quiet before I jinx myself!

    Next, on to the sanding and prep in the engine compartment.
    Looks nice! Practice makes perfect, huh?

  13. #1138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Looks nice! Practice makes perfect, huh?
    Practice makes perfect I guess

    I could do with less sanding practice...Last weekend I used my detail sander with 100 grit and thoroughly went over the front end, engine compartment and wheel wells to start blending. All of the cracks due the accident, the body shop repair areas and any other small chips from the original reassembly I missed were done. It took quite a bit of time. I will go over it with the sander and 120. Then I will work by hand with 180, 220 and 320. My arm aches already thinking about it

    I did do a little more hammer and "dolly" work to the best of my ability (not having the "right" tools). There were still a few areas to make more aesthetically pleasing to MY eye.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...wfj2d.jpg.html

    I used a grinder and sanding disks on the weld repairs from the frame work. They look much better now!



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...uwjhc.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...fb3vq.jpg.html

    Now to repeat.
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:43 AM.

  14. #1139

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    Good job man. It's hard to get back after it at times, but you're doing great.

  15. #1140
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Good progrsss!!!

  16. #1141
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Looks like you got that lower left corner of the rad support fixed up now. Good job.

  17. #1142
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    Looks great. Glad to see progress being made on a project. My Ghia is still sitting, covered, behind the gate at the side of the house.
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  18. #1143
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    So lucky me, I have been away on vacation the last two weeks but I put a good effort in to the engine compartment before I went. Sanding and scuffing all completed. (no I did not do the passenger door edge yet )





    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...yrqob.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...qs0co.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...wlkqd.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...2h6du.jpg.html

    And all wiped down again. Just a quick degrease wipe and then all the masking to go:


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...8h6in.jpg.html

    I don't have access to my work bead blast cabinet anymore but I have some small parts I need to do before I can install them and paint the engine compartment. So I bought this little cheap blaster. For doing a couple of little items I don't think the neighbors will mind


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...dc3w1.jpg.html

    Now that spring is here, my car time could be diluted a little with other duties but I hope I can keep the momentum going on this. Beginning to early summer possibly at the pace I'm going...
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:45 AM.

  19. #1144
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    If you need to use a bead blast cabinet, mine is available.

  20. #1145
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    If you need to use a bead blast cabinet, mine is available.
    Thanks Ed. I want to give this little thing a test for the cheap price. If it doesn't end up working I may have to give to a call!

    I wish the weather would get better. Even closer to spring-like. It is so unmotivating!

  21. #1146
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    Oh joy, duplicate post....
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 04-27-2017 at 11:24 PM.

  22. #1147
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Well the lousy weather left me unable to do yard work, so I got busy cleaning up my side moldings this week. From all the pieces I'd scrounged I managed to make a good complete set.

  23. #1148

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    Thought I would offer encouragement. Paint anything recently?

  24. #1149
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    I don't have access to my work bead blast cabinet anymore but I have some small parts I need to do before I can install them and paint the engine compartment. So I bought this little cheap blaster. For doing a couple of little items I don't think the neighbors will mind

    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...dc3w1.jpg.html
    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    If you need to use a bead blast cabinet, mine is available.
    So the cheap blaster is a POS. I thought I could blast a few small parts and all of the fender bolts and rid them of paint. Was I wrong. Maybe if I had 10 pounds of media. I'll be taking up your offer soon Ed!

    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Thought I would offer encouragement. Paint anything recently?
    Dave...no I have not. I was away on vacation for two weeks and have been catching up on spring household tasks and chores on my days off. I'm procrastinating on spraying...a little uncertainty. The door is bugging me and I do not think I can do the blend. I think I am going to remove the black moulding and the chrome by the window and paint up to the window frame. I made a small attempt at starting to mask the car too. I'm struggling a bit to motivate myself on the body work do-over
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:46 AM.

  25. #1150
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    Default Headliner V3

    Well before I fully mummified the car in masking I knew that this needed to be addressed. Again.

    A short string of being outside on some hot days last year had the liner drop. I had issues with the first and second attampt with the adhesion and found what I thought was the right product to use. Wrong.

    This is what I had. You could restick it by rubbing it flat and then it would slowly drop again. It's like the glue never cured.



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...osmpv.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...djate.jpg.html

    Where the glue was still sticking down the middle you can see where it took the glue off when I pulled the vinyl off.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...sqnpn.jpg.html

    I was not confident I could get all of the glue and residue off easily or sufficiently. I had originally bought a 4 x 8 sheet of this PVC when I had the other board cut so I pulled out the remainder to make a new board. I also had the original board to use for the template; mouse damage and all.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...xxzzl.jpg.html

    The plastic company cut the last one for a nominal charge. This one I did myself.



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...xkkwq.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...xjaqz.jpg.html

    All I need to do are the bends to get it formed. I think one thing that I need to do other than scuff the plastic and use a good adhesive is to use an adhesion promoter beforehand. I beleive the replacement headliners you buy online use an ABS type plastic so maybe just the choice of plastic (on the plastic shops recommendation) made this cursed from the start. I am getting quicker at pulling the interior apart
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:49 AM.

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