Looks like TM 2.0 is going to be even nicer than the first version.
Looks like TM 2.0 is going to be even nicer than the first version.
Yeah, you're telling me Fidel. Thanks for the encouragement!
"Invested". In every sense of the word! I know we are right that I possibly could've been disappointed with the results if the body shop had done it. Besides if I had fronted the funds to fully fix it, that wouldn't have taught Jackson any lessons. You can't just throw money at things and everything is all good again (well some can and do I suppose)! He needs to feel the pain of looking at it until it's fixed and then paid!
It may just be that! Just not quite as all-original.
For my spraying this time, I am not nearly going to the extent that I did before with making a booth. I think I can get away with it by just having some air flow through. Winter can be a good time because it keeps the dust down. Unfortunately this weekend, we were just a little too chilly to keep some fans running and a door cracked. Last weeknd was beautiful too! Maybe next weekend to prime the panels!
So what did I do instead today?
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...i51dx.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ak6gl.jpg.html
I also verified that it wasn't the rear seal leaking. It was clearly the oil pan
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...7sntk.jpg.html
It wasn't dripping but the front end looks like it was weeping a little as well.
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...bgu3x.jpg.html
Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:30 AM.
To finish the day yesterday, I turned the engine over to remove the oil pan and see what was up.
Looking at where the pan gasket met the rubber seal, it looks like the gasket shifted slightly and partally squished inwards when it was tightened down. This must have been the root cause of the seep from the get go!
I had sourced the gasket I needed many months ago after we first noticed the leak. The one I had used came in the Felpro rebuild kit for the 2.8. This one is a NOS Ford one:
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...vroo9.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...rmxpt.jpg.html
Token beauty shot before I put it back together next weekend. Any tips to help ensure a good seal on the new gasket?
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...31puc.jpg.html
Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:30 AM.
After the engine was out, I could look a little better at what needed to be addressed. Square footage wise, not that bad.
I need to figure out where I can make my transitions as I do not plan to remove everything this time. For now, the upper firewall and cowl will get redone as well as most of the aprons and all of the rad support. I think the K-memeber will get spot touch ups where needed.
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...yuldf.jpg.html
Here are some more pictures of the damage repairs and the other areas that will need the most attention.
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...btcqb.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...bopqx.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...smi2y.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...f7x3c.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...fuifw.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...j6yaa.jpg.html
Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:32 AM.
Coming along nicely, good work brother.
As usual, I'm late to the party.
Darran, I'm so sorry to hear about the accident, but, like already said, at least Jackson and crew weren't injured. It looks like you're making fantastic progress, once again.
So, what will it be this time? Supercharger? Nitrous? Both? Neither? <-- Probably the best bet for now, right?
Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
Buyer/Seller Experience Link
Build Thread
The Four-Eyed Game - 2018 Version
So in an effort to persevere and keep doing stuff, I was at it today.
In my usual way, I got distracted and did not go out to do the oil pan that I left off at. The weather was much nicer today. We just got out of a cold snap with a bunch more snow.
There was the perfect breeze to get the cross flow I needed with the big door cracked and the back door open with the fan on. Plus no dust! It was game on for primer!
I scuffed up the rust encapsulator I needed to on the metal parts.
So I used adhesion promotor on the cover and gave the last clean before mixing up some 2k DTM primer up.
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...avdro.jpg.html
A little masking in the garage for the overspray. Dial in the gun and voila!
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...npu6j.jpg.html
I let the fenders and hood flash and get dry to the touch. Then I flipped them over to do the other sides. I was happy with the way I laid down the primer The sheet metal looks good from the first look over. The cover still has some small work to it in places that you can see easily now.
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...msddq.jpg.html
Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:33 AM.
Okay, so I was done a little earlier than I had thought and I did take a look at the pan gasket.
From what I remember, the one that came with the Felpro rebuild set was cork and I know I had to trim it a bit where it met the seal.
The NOS Ford one looks to fit like a glove! Nothing like OEM
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...oky1i.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...glcj6.jpg.html
The previous one never fit this good! Any tips for a leak proof install? RTV? Anything on the gasket itself along the sealing surfaces?
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...vvalt.jpg.html
Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:34 AM.
Progress! You're timing your repairs nicely. Spring will give you the best temperatures for painting.
Getting things coated with primer is always a positive step forward for me. Seeing the initial repairs covered and ready for final blocking and sanding prior to paint helps me to start to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I get remotivated at that step.
Good job staying on it.
The machine shop recommended using the yellow 3M weatherstrip adhesive for gaskets you never want to leak. They wont leak or move but are a huge bear to clean if it ever needs to be redone. I'd still use Ultra Gray/Black in the corners where the hump seal meets the flat gasket.
Black 1985 GT: 408w, in the 6's in the 1/8 mile
Bimini Blue 1988 LX 5.0 Coupe 5-speed, Hellion turbo, zero options
Grabber Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1: 351c, toploader
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI
Previously owned;
1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302
Thanks Dave. I need to keep going. While I hate the "fill, sand, fill sand" vicious circle, if I lose momentum, I'd easily procratinate a month! I need to get as much as I can done until spring clean up hits!
Good to see you posting Zap! I agree with the RTV in the corners. Thanks for the info on the 3M yellow. Is it really required? Can RTV or some other sealant be used to ensure a "seal"?
Does the rest of the gasket really need anything? My old boss said the "old school" guys might have used a CopprKote type of never seize on cork but this NOS one seems to have a coating...that or it's not cork exactly.
Thanks!
In the past I have added a little RTV on the oil pan rails just to keep things in place, just a few dabs, but it's probably not necessary.
Jess
Previously owned;
1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302
Well, even though I put a bunch of time in, the results never seem to really show the progress well!
I blocked all of the panels again. Not bad considering...
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...oesmz.jpg.html
I used a good flashlight to check for any missed chips and less obvious defects and used glazing putty on what I found or what I thought needed help. All in all, again, not bad. I am not the best at doing this on the first attempt and it seems I have to do/redo a few times to get it right!
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...kkldr.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...qmq2m.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ygtkf.jpg.html
These are all blocked and cleaned up again now. I also used the red scotchbrite and scuffed up the inside of the fenders and underside of the hood to be ready for prime and topcoat/clear. I would say ready for primer on the outside. Ready for colour...maybe.
The front cover needs a little more work on the spot where the repair was done. It's tough to get into and around the belt molding lines to block properly to get it smooth. The rest is good though
Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:36 AM.
Jackson also helped me put the oil pan and gasket together. It seemed to go good! Funny, I checked the 79 repair manual to ensure I did not miss anything and the procedure actually states how to do it with the engine in the car!! So flip it back over to dust and re-detail it again and the engine is done...again.
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...g0rac.jpg.html
Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:37 AM.
I forgot to mention that I made an attempt to remove/hide the stamp on the repro fender.
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...detff.jpg.html
You could feel it with your fingers so I hammered the deep stamp from the backside first with a steel block on the top, then used a drum stone to remove some material without thinning it too bad. I think it's pretty good after sanding too. We'll see with the next coat of primer. Some will be hidden by the fender bolt washer too.
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ryu44.jpg.html
Last edited by 82GTforME; 05-25-2019 at 10:37 AM.
My painter cleaned up the stampings on my reproduction trunk lid too. He just used a bit of putty to fill it in after knocking down the high spots. I assume he will do the same on the hood and fenders when he gets to those.
Nice work Darran, I can appreciate how much you've accomplished.
Last edited by Davedacarpainter; 02-22-2017 at 01:32 PM.
Last edited by 82GTforME; 02-23-2017 at 11:22 AM.
DarranOriginally Posted by BLUECRAPI
1982-1C (Black) GT T-Top:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...um-Blue-Bomber!
Not a lot of help other than this so far but the timing was right when he came out and I had just put away the sanding gear and there was an hour until supper
Thanks Dave. Professional body people get so much more done so much quicker than me! I'm in awe of their skills. Maybe I take a conservative approach or my perfectionist tendencies take over but man it seems to take me a lot of hours to get stuff done!
Last edited by 82GTforME; 02-23-2017 at 11:22 AM.
DarranOriginally Posted by BLUECRAPI
1982-1C (Black) GT T-Top:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...um-Blue-Bomber!
Looking great Darran!
1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
1986 SVO Mustang - 1C
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