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  1. #51

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    Do u think the motor would benefit from a 1" carb spacer?

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  2. #52
    FEP Senior Member 4EYED85's Avatar
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    I would not add anything until you fix the original problem.

  3. #53

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    I have read that the 1850-12 holley carb can cause issues on motors with bigger cams upon light throttle anybody else heard of this? Light steady throttle is when my car start missing and leaning out.

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  4. #54

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    I believe I have found the problem. This goes from dizzy to duraspark box. And it looks horrible! !

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  5. #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by bwguardian View Post
    Check the wires at the ignition module where the plugs are. The insulation on the wiring right around the plugs tends to deteriorate which leaves bare wiring. I see this condition on alot of cars with the stock ignition still in place.
    You were correct!! The wires at both the dist and box were horrid!

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  6. #56
    FEP Super Member bwguardian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarinH View Post
    You were correct!! The wires at both the dist and box were horrid!

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    You can buy both plugs that have new wire leads that you can attach back into the existing wiring...as long as you can work back and find good wire. You should be okay as I have not seen many that are too bad out beyond the new wire leads. I got mine at the local NAPA but I think they may be a little cheaper at Rock Auto. Hopefully this fixes your problem.
    HAD
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  7. #57

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    Mine was the same way...and worse...I opened up the loom and the insulation fell off most of the wires. The PO let the power steering pump spray over the engine compartment and the engine wiring harness got the worst of it. I went to a wrecker and found a wiring harness from an 80's ford truck that almost resembled mine. Had to change the whit rectangle plug and it worked. The harness was a bit longer than the mustang one but it worked. $10 bucks and it was fixed.
    Last edited by Tracer; 09-20-2013 at 04:55 PM.
    1985 Mustang GT 5speed LRB with Ford Racing M-6007-X302, Performer RPM, Holley 670 Avenger carb, BBK headers with H-pipe, B&M short throw
    1986 Mustang GT (parts car)
    1986 LX Coupe 4cyl, 4speed, LRB

  8. #58

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    Well i priced the two pigtails at oreilys and the total was 40$. So since I had plenty of wire I just used good butt splices and hardwired them together. Worked like a charm and runs a lot smoother now!!

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  9. #59
    FEP Power Member 81coupe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarinH View Post
    Well i priced the two pigtails at oreilys and the total was 40$. So since I had plenty of wire I just used good butt splices and hardwired them together. Worked like a charm and runs a lot smoother now!!

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    I did the same thing until i can get the two pig tails ends. My harness was turning into dust. Just be sure to wire the orange and purple wires correcty. The polarity of the pickup in the distributor matters.
    1981 Mustang Coupe: Rebuilt 91/306, Ported E7's, TF Spring kit, E-303 Cam, RPM Intake, Eddy 1406 Carb, FMS Dual Roller Timing set, March UD pulleys, Summit LT Headers, Summit 2-1/2" Chambered Mufflers w/ 2-1/2" FlowTech H-Pipe/ Flowtubes & 2-1/2" LMR SS Tailpipes. C4 trans with 8.8/ 2.73 Rear.

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