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  1. #1
    New User madmax2's Avatar
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    Question fix a mistake with the rear control arms bushings

    I made a grave mistake.... I installed Energy Suspension bushings (POLYURETHANE) in the rear LCA and UCA. To make matters worse boxed the control arms.
    Reading the thread of forum I realized that I was wrong... everything wrong.
    I did not know how it works FOX rear suspension, just tried to copy the cheap suspension arms that looked at the website and in magazines.
    After done this, the car ride worsens dramatically, run on cobblestone streets it's impossible... the car jumps in all directions.

    Well ... How I can fix this?
    From what I read should unboxed the arms and use rubber bushings in UCA and housing.
    Will these bushings serve? ->http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-k8637

    But I have doubts to do with the LCA, should leave polyurethane on one side only... but where?
    You know what rubber bushings are for LCA?... I didn't find.
    Do you advise buy control arms with spherical bushings?

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    By running urethane and boxing the upper control arm, you have removed the ability of the suspension to articulate. Replacing the upper arms and going back to rubber bushings on the upper will allow the rear suspension to work again.
    Dave

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  3. #3
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The best option IMHO would be to replace the upper arms with OEM arms with decent rubber bushings and replace the rubber bushings in the rear axle. That will allow the suspension to rotate and twist as it needs to during suspension travel.

    The lower controls should still work by installing a rubber bushing in the axle side of the arm leaving the urethane in the body side location. The issue is usually finding the lower arm rubber bushing. I will have to go through my books and see if I can find the information on the lower control arm bushings to post up. The upper arm bushings you shouldn't have any issues finding either one.

    Good Luck!

    Trey
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  4. #4

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    since we're discussing mixing parts..will it be okay to use aftermarket box-type lowers with poly bushings and leaving the uppers stock?
    84 LX 5.0 97 5.0 swap t-5 vert 4bb carb

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The problem with poly bushings at both ends on the lowers (stock, boxed, or aftermarket) is that they do not allow the suspension to work properly due to the poly's stiffness and lack of deflection. Unfortunately the stock Fox Quadra Bind only gets worse when poly bushings are installed in more than one location.

    A much better option for lower control arms is one such as Maximum Motorsports that combine a spherical bearing on the axle side and a custom 3 piece urethane bushing on the chassis side. This allows the suspension the articulation needed to prevent binding of the rear suspension, while at the same time getting rid of deflection and compression that rubber bushings allow. Yes, the MM stuff is not cheap, but once again, you get what you pay for. The SVE, Granatelli, etc. rear control arms that have poly bushings are not an improvement to the suspension and therefore are unfortunately a waste of money if improved handling and ride quality is what you want.

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
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  6. #6
    New User madmax2's Avatar
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    tanks to reply...

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    The best option IMHO would be to replace the upper arms with OEM arms with decent rubber bushings and replace the rubber bushings in the rear axle. That will allow the suspension to rotate and twist as it needs to during suspension travel.
    if un-box the OEM UCA (I've welded a steel plate) and use the Moog K8637 it's the same?

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    The lower controls should still work by installing a rubber bushing in the axle side of the arm leaving the urethane in the body side location. The issue is usually finding the lower arm rubber bushing. I will have to go through my books and see if I can find the information on the lower control arm bushings to post up. The upper arm bushings you shouldn't have any issues finding either one.
    these bushing can fit? -> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-k8135

    more questions....
    Keep boxed the LCA?
    What do you think about the LCA brand UMI or UPR?

  7. #7
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by madmax2 View Post
    If un-box the OEM UCA (I've welded a steel plate) and use the Moog K8637 it's the same?


    these bushing can fit? -> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-k8135

    more questions....
    Keep boxed the LCA?
    What do you think about the LCA brand UMI or UPR?
    I believe that is the correct part number for the rear upper control arms, although I have never used that kit. I have always used the Silentbloc style that Raybestos sells. Not sure if there is really any difference, but here are the part numbers #5701049B upper to axle and #5701077B upper to frame. Both are the service grade, but if you want the "Professional" grade just drop the B off the end.

    I believe the K8135 is the correct part number for the lower control arms, but I am not 100% on that. I need to find a listing that actually gives more detailed information.

    As for keeping the boxed lowers, you will be fine. As for UMI or UPR, the issue again is that virtually all of the rear suspension parts being sold for Fox bodies are designed for drag racing. The issue is that drag racers don't go around corners and generally don't want a lot of suspension travel in the back during a run. So as long as the tires hook and the car runs straight, the suspension parts are doing their job.

    Companies like Maximum Motorsports, Kenny Brown, Saleen, Steeda, and a few others make suspension parts for Fox bodies that turn corners and need suspension travel to handle dips and bumps on the street. These are the ones you need to check out if you want a set of aftermarket lower control arms. Yes their price points are generally higher than the UPR, SVE, etc. but you are getting a quality part that will actually improve the ride and handling of your Fox body rather than making it worse.

    Hope that helps.

    Trey
    ​Trey

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  8. #8
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    I did the same thing on the rear suspension of my '79 years back. All I did was replace two of the UCA bushings (on the rear end I believe) with stock rubber bushings. I left the remaining 6 bushings poly. Rides fine now. The only other difference I have is that my uppers are not boxed.

    Good luck - JT
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
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  9. #9
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    82GTforME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by madmax2 View Post
    if un-box the OEM UCA (I've welded a steel plate) and use the Moog K8637 it's the same?


    these bushing can fit? -> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-k8135
    These are the ones I used on my 82. K8637: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...rod=MOOG-K8637

    There are axle and body side for one control arm so you would need two sets. I put the rubber at both ends of the UCA's with the HD MM LCA's. No wheel hop (not that I've tried real hard ) or handling issues yet.

    I do have the old factory UCA's from my 82 that I do not need anymore (you would have to replace the bushings of course). Dont know what shipping would be to South America though.
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 09-11-2013 at 01:32 PM.
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  10. #10
    New User madmax2's Avatar
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    Find this bushings... http://dcaracefab.com/dca-cart/index...orkfg8rvhishs7 what think?

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  11. #11
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Spherical bushings/bearings are great for freedom of movement and no binding. The issue on the street is dirt, water, etc. that gets in the bushings/bearings and causes them to deteriorate rapidly.

    Those type of bushings work very well on a race car that gets lubrication and maintenance on a regular schedule that is generally much more often than the average street car.

    So for an additional $24.95 you can have this http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=498 that gives you the benefit of a bolt in installation with no bushing removal on your behalf. In addition you could sell your lower control arms to help offset the costs.

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  12. #12

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    I hear you can go poly all around if the bushings are a three piece design..I'm thinking of going with new lca with poly on the chassis end and rubber on the axle..same on uca..I read that s ome where..I also here alot as bout 3 piece polys or sphericals.just wanta know the best way ..still thinking the poly on the chassis side on both ..
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  13. #13
    FEP Power Member Bruce Mohacsy's Avatar
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    Why bother with the rest when you can have the best............

  14. #14

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    Where you able to find the originals LCA bushings? I´m fighting with the same issue and I want to keep my stang original.

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    The snapsteer condition original foxes are notorious for is an accident waiting to happen. Mine in stock form nearly got me killed multiple times! there is no way to completely resolve the condition without some modifications. But if you love your life and your car and your family and other motorists then fixing the snapsteer is the safest bet.

    Lighter 4cyl LX rear springs rather than the GT or "LX sport" rear springs will help avoid bind some (sometimes a ton). Running without a rear sway bar helps with freeing up suspension travel. (Also sometimes tons)

    staying with Small diameter rims (15" or less) with grippy tire tread on a weak sidewall tires (Firestone Indy 500, Cooper Cobra GT, etc) helps get you to where there is "on edge warning" before it just lets go - definitely helps. A wider rear tire like a 235/60/15 in the rear and a narrower tire in front helps balance a stock unmodified car by introducing an understeer tendency to combat the oversteer out back. (215/65/15 or 225/60/15 work well).

    In the end a watts link is overkill according to many write-ups (which MM seems to also agree with as they don't make one)

    Your safest and best performing option is to follow the advise on bushings then run a spring no heavier than needed and sway bar that's appropriate to what you plan to do and to add a panhard bar.

    Those who are going to drive very hard will benefit from removing the upper control arms entirely and going to a torque arm setup. Those help transfer weight during acceleration and eliminate brake dive during hard braking. Sometimes a bit more rear spring is needed with a torque arm.

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Mohacsy View Post
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    Why bother with the rest when you can have the best............
    Agreed. Driver training helps too. We ran the Bondurant cars for years with nothing more than a panhard rod and 17" shaved Gatorbacks. After 1 day of "Lift Turn Squeeze" training and a little skid car training the snap oversteer was a non issue.

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