How to remove wood grain molding?

[Tom Wells]

I have the possibility of finding a Fairmont wagon in a junkyard with the Squire option. I'd like to fetch the trim that surrounds the woodgrain decal and apply it to my car. I can likely replace the decal, but not the moldings, so I need to get these off the car if possible.

Here's the question: what's the best way/easiest way to remove the molding from a wagon without ruining it?

Tom

[nelzfoxes]

I hope someone who knows chimes in on this because I need to know as well. Digging your wagon by the way Tom. I'm building something similar but I don't think it'll be quite as nice!

[Tom Wells]

nelzfoxes,

Thanks for the compliment - have to confess it's an OK 25 foot car. The paint & upholstery are original and it's a driver; it's going road racing when I get a chance...

I have the shop manual which shows lots of fasteners of several different types depending where they are located. What I haven't been able to figure out is how much of the car has to be disassembled (inner door panels etc) to get to the fasteners. I do hope someone who is familiar with this will chime in!

Tom

[cbncoupe]

Sounds like you have to get to the B side of the sheet metal. Yes, interior trim/door panel removal, up inside the fenders and inside tailgate/hatch if trim is present there. It a lot of work but if you need it, maybe its worth it.

[Tom Wells]

Well I went to Tallahassee and got the trim. Wore me out!

Part of the passenger side front fender had been modified - by a forklift, another car or whatever - so I'll need to get some more pieces for that part - also the passenger door.

There were a real variety of fasteners; some went all the way through and had nuts, some popped out and some had Phillips head screws. I must admit that after about two hours in the sun and under the car 100 times I got a little less meticulous with the removal but I now have a set and some of the clips, clamps and screws for replacement.

Next task will be cleanup and resurrection.

Now I need to find out whether the trim is/was painted or covered with vinyl. It presently looks painted. Wonder what color the original trim was?

Also I'll need a source for the main decal for the woodgrain sides.

Other than that, no problem...

Tom

[82GTforME]

Awesome score! Way to go!

[Tom Wells]

I put up a few photos here: http://www.firstcoastcobraclub.com/v...php?f=2&t=1037

Now here's the question: did the molding (moulding) have a wood grain pattern on it originally, or was it painted?

I see an auction for some replacement molding said to be for the '78-'80 wagons, and it has a woodgrain pattern. I'm looking as closely as I can at the moldings I got yesterday and can't see any sign of pattern - they look more like they were painted from the factory. This was an '81.

Of course, the Florida sun could have taken care of any pattern that was there originally.

Anyone have some experience here?

Thanks,

Tom

[Stymees'mont]

I know you use to be able to buy the stuff. Dad did to repair our Wagon many years ago and was applied as a water decal. Wish I new where to get it to help. Google?
Why not go to a Vinyl source.....like the large vinyl decals they make to cover the complete body of the vehicle. They can copy yours and reprint a new replacement.
like here http://www.woodgrain4wagons.com/

[302MONT]

maybe Brien P can chime in here..he is has had some great ideas for me and my Marquis wagon.

[Stormin' Norman]

I've done the dirty deed. Mine is from Mexico, built there, and sat for 7 years in central Mexico's hot sun. It was so cooked on that some parts had cooked and checked onto the metal.

I had no shortcuts that worked. I tried 3M's Label remover product (8973 - I think) - no go. Acetone softens it up pretty good and then you use a very thin blade putty knife (1" and 2" widths will be handy). Get a stool, because it'll take a good two or 3 hours per side.

Once you get the vinyl off, you've still got the adhesive to take off. This is one toxic and messy process. Two buckets of lukewarm water, a package of those surgical gloves from the grocery store, and the same putty knives. What makes it damgerous is the gel-type paint remover. It comtains hydrochloric acid. Use one bucket to rinse off your scrapers and get the muck off your gloves between scrapes. It dries up and gets crusty in a couple mintes, so keep your tools clean or you'll scratch the paint and primer pretty deep.

Change gloves often.

I found that spreading the paint-stripper over a 12" X 12" area was all I could do well, before it started to dry. Let it bubble up a bit, and scrape, wipe with water from the clean bucket (lots of old tee-shirts or old jeans cut up into Square Foot rags). The factory paint does have a hard finish, under the vinyl, but if you leave the paint=stipper on too long, it will go into the primer. Small areas, rinse, and move to the next square.

I used two quart cans of 1867 stripper. Get a good brand. The cheap ones run. Start at the top and work down to the bottom edge.

Also, when I bought my first new car in November 1980, it was a new 1981 Futura wagon. It came with that pebbled finish below the wood grain area. including the rockers and wheel wells, from the facory. My 1979 didn't have it, so I bought the POR pebble finish, and used over the primer, and then painted it like the rest of the pain. So I didn't worry much about drip runs below the woodgrain edges.

If you can do it in the cool shade, the stripper won't dry up as fast.

Wash the area with soap and water, then acetone to get any residue off the car.

That's it. Hope it helps.

[Stymees'mont]

Did anyone try heat gun? You also buy a rubber wheel to buff off the old vinyl. There is also a commercial grade tool that works much betternand can be rented.

[688guy]

I did my old Malibu (sorry for the bow tie blaspheme) with a heat gun and pulled the sticker in small 3 or 4 inch strips at angle, like one edge a little forward of the other edge and it tended to pull the adhesive off with it. I did a little every afternoon after work. Took a few days, but wasn't too bad of a job. I was stripping it all off and ground off all the thingys that held the trim on, so removing the trim was easier, just ripped it all off and tossed it...

[amxron]

www.woodgrain4wagons.com

Hemmings, services offered section.

Goodluck,

Ron.

[vintageracer]

Isn't amazing how many fasteners the Big 3 used on cars from the late 70's and early 80's?

The Japanese sure gave them a lesson in how to build a car! Imagine the amount of time and people needed to assemble those old relics.

Several years ago I had a 1977 Buick Regal. I could SEE 29 different bolts and as always you know there would be several bolts you could not see to mount the right front fender. 29+ bolts! How stupid is that? Talk about POOR ENGINEERING the 70's and 80's were the height of poor automotive engineering in the US!

No wonder the cars were so crappy.

They sure don't make cars like they used to and I for one am VERY GLAD!

[fairmont city]

question for you 302 mont did you ever receive my pm about trim for your car as I had your exact car as I could not give it away it was all scrapped

[Stormin' Norman]

I just took all of mine off to sand smooth and polish. I'm changing from woodgrain to two-tone. The woodgrain sold today sucks. The JC Whitney stuff lasted from 2009 to 2011. I'll use a local pinstripe company to provide the decal-pinstripe insert between the raised edges. Most of the clips and fasteners are available from Auveco. The inner stamped clips, profiled at the ends are definitely a DIY job, if they're rotted out, but you could use a liquid plastic or epoxy to use standard fasteners and bolt them back in (flat-headed fasteners).

[nelzfoxes]

I put up a few photos here: http://www.firstcoastcobraclub.com/v...php?f=2&t=1037

Now here's the question: did the molding (moulding) have a wood grain pattern on it originally, or was it painted?

I see an auction for some replacement molding said to be for the '78-'80 wagons, and it has a woodgrain pattern. I'm looking as closely as I can at the moldings I got yesterday and can't see any sign of pattern - they look more like they were painted from the factory. This was an '81.

Of course, the Florida sun could have taken care of any pattern that was there originally.

Anyone have some experience here?

Thanks,

Tom

I believe the moldings had a woodgrain pattern on them. When you pulled the moldings was there a thin plastic peeling behind? Almost like cellophane? The moldings on the Daddywagon are peeling due to sun exposure over time, and look like the moldings you pulled. It's peeling off in a thin film and you can't see the woodgrain pattern anymore. On the spots where it isn't peeling the woodgrain pattern is there an very nice looking. Since you have the moldings off of the car, you might want to look into hydro dipping a nice woodgrain pattern on them. The process is pretty cool, however I do not know how durable it is. Lookup hg arts water transfer printing on YouTube for some very cool videos on it.

[nelzfoxes]

There are also methods to paint woodgrain. I always pictured woodgrain flames or scallops on my Daddywagon! Haha!

[Tom Wells]

Sigh. I've been derailed from the woodgrain effort in order to try to get the car prepared for the Ultimate Street Car competition in Sebring on Saturday.

Everything that could go wrong has gone wrong. I remind myself that I live by McPherson's Law which states simply that "Murphy's Law is too optimistic."

I'm not going to make this weekend but will keep putting the EFI pieces onto the 557 and the cooler onto the '03 Mustang Cobra differential etc etc etc so that when the next one rolls around at this end of the country, Daytona Beach or Sebring preferably, the car will be ready!

When I get back to the woodgrain I'll put up another message.

Tom