Originally Posted by
JACook
Since all the CFI cars have a return line, there's simply no good reason not to use a bypass-style
regulator, and plenty of good reasons why you should.
Using the low-pressure in-tank pump, the external pump needs to by replaced by a straight piece
of line. If you use a low-pressure external pump, the internal pump can be left running or not.
Either way, you still need to run a regulator.
There's nothing really all that mystical about the TV pressure cable/rod, the biggest issue I see with
AODs is there are too many people that think they figured out the ultimate TV adjustment shortcut,
and right behind them are the ones that swear you can make a C4 kickdown arm do the job.
All of the AOD-capable Motorcraft 2150s I've seen were bolted onto 255s, and yeah, that carb will not
flow as much as the '84 CFI throttle body, let alone the larger '85. I believe there was a larger 2150
with the AOD TV link used on 302s in vans, but I've yet to see one.
I don't have the wiring diagrams for LTD, but on the Mustangs, up until around '84, the ballast was in
the underdash harness. It's a red/light green wire that has fat rubber insulation, so it's easy to spot.
Depending on year, it ran from either the fuse box or the ignition switch, to the connector where the
underdash harness mates with the underhood harness. At that connector, it's joined by a brown/pink
wire from the ignition switch that provides the start bypass. On models that used ignition systems
that did not use the ballast (brown or red grommet), a jumper was added to the engine harness in the
connector where it joins the underhood harness at the left fender apron. The jumper connects the red/
light green "run" feed to the coil, to the white/light blue "run" feed that goes to the ignition module.
But you probably don't have this.
Around '84, the ballast resistor was moved to the underhood harness, and only exists in models that
use the Duraspark ignition system. It runs in the bundle that crosses over the cowl. One end splices
in near the A/C cycling switch, the other near the wiper motor. Models with CFI used a completely
different harness, since most everything underhood is in a different place. I expect this is what you
have.
So this being a low-buck deal, the easy answer here is to remove the red/light green wire from the
coil, and attach it to an external ballast resistor block. You might even be able to use the existing
slip-on terminal. Connect a new jumper from the other side of the resistor to the coil. Then replace
your starter relay with one from an earlier Ford, say 1st-gen Mustang, with the two small terminal
posts. The first small terminal operates the relay, same as what you have now. The second small
terminal gets tied in to the coil side of your ballast. That's exactly what that second post does on a
1st-gen Mustang. (NB, that style starter relay should never be used on a car with TFI ignition, but
yours won't anymore.)
MSD, Mallory, and Moroso, to name a few, sell perfectly serviceable ballast resistors for <$20.
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