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  1. #1
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    Default SVO side molding?

    I remember reading somewhere that you can get universal molding and use it in place of the SVO thin molding. I want to run this style on my 86 as I have not seen it on any other cars that did not come this way. Does anyone know of a source for this universal molding?
    1986 Notchback, Recently repainted Light Regatta Blue(3J) and getting put back the way it should be. It had a 3.8 and a C5. Now it has a 5.0 and a T5.

  2. #2
    FEP Member BrianM's Avatar
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    Here are two sources for the aftermarket stuff I bookmarked a while back. Its not an exact replacement but about as close as you can get and cheap at less than $30 for enough to do the whole car. Paint charcoal to match 85-86. Nobody but an SVO enthusiast would be any wiser.

    http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_cow_...pean_style.cfm

    http://secure.terrys.net/viewProduct...ctID=PT.33-322
    Last edited by BrianM; 09-06-2013 at 01:44 PM.
    1970 U14 Bronco
    1983 911 SC
    Sold - 1986 SVO 1D #9823

  3. #3
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    Now I also have them bookmarked. Thank you very much. I think my LX will look good with this molding in charcoal. I am also thinking about modifying a set of side spats as well.
    1986 Notchback, Recently repainted Light Regatta Blue(3J) and getting put back the way it should be. It had a 3.8 and a C5. Now it has a 5.0 and a T5.

  4. #4
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    You will need the rocker moldings from an svo to pull off the spats
    '86 SVO *Jenni* 2R Sunroof, Leather (Restoration in Progress)
    '06 GT G2 Vert auto 13.0 @ 105

  5. #5
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    I would modify them to taper into the rocker. I think it would look pretty good.
    1986 Notchback, Recently repainted Light Regatta Blue(3J) and getting put back the way it should be. It had a 3.8 and a C5. Now it has a 5.0 and a T5.

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Domino View Post
    I would modify them to taper into the rocker. I think it would look pretty good.
    I am sure this could be done, but be aware that one of the mounting screws and the bracket lies under the rocker panel in a standard install. So you will need to address how to remove that and yet still attach the leading edge of the spat to the body. Not a super difficult task mind you, but worth putting some thought into as it's an area that can easily be an issue for long term durability IMHO.

    Good Luck!

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #7
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    I did not know that. I was under the impression that they were stuck on with two sided tape. I really do not want to drill a hole in my car. Thanks for the heads up.
    1986 Notchback, Recently repainted Light Regatta Blue(3J) and getting put back the way it should be. It had a 3.8 and a C5. Now it has a 5.0 and a T5.

  8. #8
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Yes, there are 2 holes that need to be drilled in the lower rocker area along the leading edge of the spats that the bracket inside the spat uses to hold the spat on. Then there is one screw under the rocker panel molding along with the 3 screws that are in the wheel well.

    Check out Mike's FS post that shows what the spats look like off the car. That will help you understand what would be required to mount them. http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...s-and-brackets

    There is an aftermarket fiberglass version of the spats that might work for you, although I am not sure how they attach. They may still use studs for attachment.

    Good Luck!

    Trey
    Last edited by wraithracing; 09-09-2013 at 09:16 AM. Reason: Better Details
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  9. #9
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    The aftermarket ones do not have the bolts that go through the body just screws on the wheel well side and the bottom into the floor pan. They are sold by Paul Becker at svpu. $200 a set was the last price I know of.
    Kendal

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Here's what the spat mounting points look like:


    JT
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  11. #11
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    I am going to rethink the spats idea for now. Does anyone have close-up pics of the side molding? How long is each piece? Which pieces are beveled? I am going to order my molding pretty soon and I want to be prepared. I already have the trim paint sitting here waiting.
    1986 Notchback, Recently repainted Light Regatta Blue(3J) and getting put back the way it should be. It had a 3.8 and a C5. Now it has a 5.0 and a T5.

  12. #12

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    autozone sells one with carbon fiber patern.. looks great and it has the same width

  13. #13
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    I actually ordered the one from the link above. It should be here next week. I just need to figure out the lengths and the correct tapers. I am hoping someone with a real SVO can take some pics and get some measurements.
    1986 Notchback, Recently repainted Light Regatta Blue(3J) and getting put back the way it should be. It had a 3.8 and a C5. Now it has a 5.0 and a T5.

  14. #14
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    I can get you some pics, but later this week. Been flat out with "stuff"....

    JT
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  15. #15
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    I would really appreciate that. I figure an 86 LX with SVO trim will be different.
    1986 Notchback, Recently repainted Light Regatta Blue(3J) and getting put back the way it should be. It had a 3.8 and a C5. Now it has a 5.0 and a T5.

  16. #16
    FEP Member BrianM's Avatar
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    Molding lengths

    Front 9 1/4"
    Door 53"
    Rear 10 1/4"

    The angle at the front of the door is 1/2" long.
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Last edited by BrianM; 11-20-2013 at 08:25 AM.
    1970 U14 Bronco
    1983 911 SC
    Sold - 1986 SVO 1D #9823

  17. #17
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    Thanks a lot. Is the one at the front of the door the only one that is angled? I am still trying to decide what will be the best thing to use to cut the molding.
    1986 Notchback, Recently repainted Light Regatta Blue(3J) and getting put back the way it should be. It had a 3.8 and a C5. Now it has a 5.0 and a T5.

  18. #18
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Depending on the molding you are trying to use, there are a couple of ways to cut the angle. You can use a really sharp utility blade and take care to cut straight and not cut yourself. You can make a wood jig that holds the molding and then the blade goes through a slot just like a miter box for a regular wood saw.

    You can also use a miter box with a really fine saw blade, although the cleanliness of the cut make require additional sanding or smoothing.

    You can also use a compound miter saw and a fine plywood type blade to make the cut. Make your cut at a smooth cut rate, just fast enough not to heat up the plastic and cause melting or burning, but not so fast as to leave poor cut.

    Good Luck!

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  19. #19
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    The not cutting myself will be the hardest part. My left hand is still bandaged from an accident Thursday while trimming a hedge. I figure I will cut it to length, sit it on the car with some masking tape to ensure it does not rub anywhere, remove it to paint and install. In my head it seems simple, but I will mess it up somehow.
    1986 Notchback, Recently repainted Light Regatta Blue(3J) and getting put back the way it should be. It had a 3.8 and a C5. Now it has a 5.0 and a T5.

  20. #20
    FEP Super Member escogt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Domino View Post
    I figure an 86 LX with SVO trim will be different.
    I too did that with my old '81.


  21. #21
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    What did you use on yours? Do you have any close up pics of the trim? Mine should be here next week some time and I am ready to put it on. I really wish someone made SVO quarter trim for a coupe.
    1986 Notchback, Recently repainted Light Regatta Blue(3J) and getting put back the way it should be. It had a 3.8 and a C5. Now it has a 5.0 and a T5.

  22. #22
    FEP Super Member escogt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Domino View Post
    What did you use on yours? Do you have any close up pics of the trim? Mine should be here next week some time and I am ready to put it on. I really wish someone made SVO quarter trim for a coupe.
    I used OEM SVO moldings that I bought from a member here. Cleaned them up & put on some fresh 3M two sided molding tape.
    I'll see if I have some close up pics.

  23. #23
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    I would appreciate any and all pics.
    1986 Notchback, Recently repainted Light Regatta Blue(3J) and getting put back the way it should be. It had a 3.8 and a C5. Now it has a 5.0 and a T5.

  24. #24
    FEP Super Member escogt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Domino View Post
    I would appreciate any and all pics.
    Hope these are helpful to you.











  25. #25
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    I see now. There is a slight bevel on the very ends, but no bevel on the front of the quarter and the rear of the door. I have saved your pics so i can enlarge them for a better view. Thanks again. My factory moldings are just too far gone to fix and I do not have the money to source good ones.
    1986 Notchback, Recently repainted Light Regatta Blue(3J) and getting put back the way it should be. It had a 3.8 and a C5. Now it has a 5.0 and a T5.

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