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Thread: My new Zephyr

  1. #26

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    I read a lot about the springs people have been using and most of them have trade offs. Handles great rides like crap. I wanted a good balance for every day driving. Given that most street driving happens at 40 mph or less I thought that the stock set up would be better than springs made for carving corners or hard launches.

  2. #27

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    Sounds like you're after the same thing I am. You want to just trade cars? Kidding.

    Thanks for the info!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  3. #28
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    The reason I ask is, the shocks and springs I have on my car yield a ride that's COMPLETELY unacceptable. My front set up is Duralast Fox Mustang GT springs and SN95 GT stock struts. In the rear, I have Duralast Zephyr wagon springs and Koni shocks. My ride is very stiff and bouncy. Any help you could give would be much appreciated!
    I don't want to hijack ukravit's thread too much here, but I'm curious about the SN95 struts up front. I know SN95 guys often use Fox struts if they lower their car, because the Fox struts are shorter (thus provide more bump travel on a lowered car). I'm wondering if using the longer SN95 struts on your car means you don't have enough bump travel. If you're getting into the bump stops all the time, or even bottoming out the struts, that would definitely lead to poor ride quality.

  4. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
    I don't want to hijack ukravit's thread too much here, but I'm curious about the SN95 struts up front. I know SN95 guys often use Fox struts if they lower their car, because the Fox struts are shorter (thus provide more bump travel on a lowered car). I'm wondering if using the longer SN95 struts on your car means you don't have enough bump travel. If you're getting into the bump stops all the time, or even bottoming out the struts, that would definitely lead to poor ride quality.
    Thanks; I didn't know they were longer! The reason I have them is the SN95 spindle. The lower strut mount is MUCH bigger on a Fox strut, and I wasn't able to find the needed spacers to make Fox struts work, so I just stuck with the SN95 ones. As for bottoming out, my front springs are SO stiff (and I think longer than they should be), that never happens. It's almost as if I have no suspension at all. Plus my car is definitely not lowered. it sits higher than stock height right now, another reason I really want to get something different in there.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  5. #30
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    Thanks; I didn't know they were longer! The reason I have them is the SN95 spindle. The lower strut mount is MUCH bigger on a Fox strut, and I wasn't able to find the needed spacers to make Fox struts work, so I just stuck with the SN95 ones.
    I think that's a matter of "early" ('79-86) vs "late" ('87-93) Fox spindles/struts. The later Fox spindles (and struts) have the same width strut mount as the SN95 spindles. When I swapped to SN95 spindles on my '89 GT years ago, I didn't have to do anything with the Koni struts I already had; they bolted right up.

  6. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
    I think that's a matter of "early" ('79-86) vs "late" ('87-93) Fox spindles/struts. The later Fox spindles (and struts) have the same width strut mount as the SN95 spindles. When I swapped to SN95 spindles on my '89 GT years ago, I didn't have to do anything with the Koni struts I already had; they bolted right up.
    You could be right. The Fox struts I bought that didn't fit were supposed to be '87-93 GT, but they've been wrong before about what fits on what.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  7. #32

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    Getting back on topic. I converted the car to power brakes. I selected the booster and master cylinder from a 1978 5 litre Zephyr. Its a bit smaller than the one I had in my 78 Fairmont.
    Rock auto had the booster and master cylinder together for pretty cheap and it came with everything. I sourced a brake pedal arm for power brakes and climbed under the dash to install it. Only took about 15 minutes after I took the seat out. Night and day difference in stopping.
    I also picked up the brackets and hardware to convert from manual steering to power steering, as well as the parts to go to an electric fan. Should keep me busy this winter.

  8. #33
    FEP Member ratio411's Avatar
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    The power rack from an 87-93 Mustang GT was a good upgrade for our Fairmont.
    It's a really quick ratio rack (the GT rack), and steering goes from very "old ladyish" to "go-kartish"...
    It goes from something like 12 turns lock to lock (feels like that anyway), to something like 4 turns.

    Be ready to change your rack bushings. They have been slap worn out on every Fox we have owned.
    Get poly bushings, AND, if your car is lowered, you can benefit from offset bushings.
    If you get a used rack from a donor car, look at the tie rods, especially the inners. The inners have been a weak spot we have seen when dealing with Foxes as well. Usually one or both sides need new inners on the racks we come accross.
    Last edited by ratio411; 12-15-2013 at 11:08 AM.

  9. #34

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    I got a reman rack from Autozone for the 86 Mustang I had. It came with new inners. I was thinking of going that route. Reman rack, new hoses and it should be a lot more fun to drive. As far as steering coolers go is it necessary? is there a nice factory one?

  10. #35

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    My steel line just wraps around the front of the radiator and back. No actual cooler per se. It's a stock line from a '90 V8 Mustang.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  11. #36

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    I picked up a reman rack for a 1990 Mustang GT, 2.25 turns lock to lock , quick ratio. Should be nicer than the manual rack.
    anywho, I found that on my set up the steering shaft is smaller than on the power rack so I have to get one. Not a big issue, I think the pick and pull has an 86 cougar that I can get one from.

  12. #37
    FEP Member ratio411's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    My steel line just wraps around the front of the radiator and back. No actual cooler per se. It's a stock line from a '90 V8 Mustang.
    I believe they all have the 'dummy' lines that go forward. I don't know which came with a proper cooler, if any, but the dummy lines make it super easy to put a cooler.
    Use a tubing cutter to trim the loop out of the dummy line, and plumb it straight to a cooler...

    I know some years had the dummy line between the PS pump and the frame rail... When those had a cooler, it was in the same place, but it was only a tiny 2 pass unit.
    If you put one in front of the radiator, you could use any size tranny cooler that you liked to get the job done.

  13. #38

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    I had some play in the steering column so I took it out for inspection. The lower bearing has about a quarter inch of play so it needs replaced. I'll check with berry bearing for a replacement. They have helped me before.
    If I have no luck I will just get another column.

  14. #39
    FEP Senior Member quarterstang86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ukravit View Post
    I picked up a reman rack for a 1990 Mustang GT, 2.25 turns lock to lock , quick ratio. Should be nicer than the manual rack.
    anywho, I found that on my set up the steering shaft is smaller than on the power rack so I have to get one. Not a big issue, I think the pick and pull has an 86 cougar that I can get one from.
    If the Manual rack / steering linkage is in good shape would you consider selling? PM me.
    - Richard

  15. #40

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    I picked up a new column from an 82 mustang. I was going to just take my upper assy with the key and transfer it over to the new column, but the shaft housing is different. The slot that lets the key switch move to the start position is shorter on the 82 column. When I put the 78 head piece on it the key would not rotate to the start position, so I gutted it for the bearings. It came with a 3 spoke sport wheel so that will find its way on there.
    I did complete the power steering install. Next up electric fan.

  16. #41

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    I went and got a 94 Mustang electric fan, and a Contour dual electric fan. The Contour fans give a lot more room between the water pump and fans, and fit the radiator much better.
    I set each one in by the radiator to see which would allow a cleaner install and the Contour will work best.
    I plan on using a Volvo fan controller with a BMW dual temp sensor. I still need a 3G alternator that fits the larger Lincoln cradle that the car has.
    Last edited by ukravit; 01-09-2014 at 06:43 PM.

  17. #42

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    The wheel I got with the steering column was a little chewed on the spokes, but the rest of it was still serviceable. I taped it off and sanded the spokes down. I used some self etching primer and a little of the paint I had left from painting the console. The center emblem was toast and a new one is 90.00. I went to the salvage yard and got a grille emblem from a 2001 sable. I painted the trim part of it with model paint and used emblem tape to stick it on. Turned out okay. Kind of a period correct feel to it for hardly any money.


  18. #43

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    I like that!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  19. #44
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ukravit View Post
    I went and got a 94 Mustang electric fan, and a Contour dual electric fan. The Contour fans give a lot more room between the water pump and fans, and fit the radiator much better.
    I set each one in by the radiator to see which would allow a cleaner install and the Contour will work best.
    Stupid question, but how did you get the Contour fan setup off the car? I was trying to pull one a couple weekends back and from what I could tell you had to drop the whole radiator/fan assembly out the bottom in order to get to the fans. I didn't have the right tools on me, and didn't want to lie in the mud, so I gave up on it.
    Last edited by Patrick Olsen; 01-22-2014 at 10:40 AM.

  20. #45

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    I cut the harness at the bottom on the pass side, you will see where it runs by the pass side fan plug. And cut the harness on the drivers side below the rad hose. I took out the two bolts that hold it in place. Bent the AC line out of the way and wrestled it out the top. You may have to remove the engine cover. 3- 7mm bolts. remove the air filter assy and the rad hose on the drivers side to get room to get your hands in there.
    If you need to free up the radiator there are 2 brackets with 8mm bolts that hold it in place on the bottom. A 7mm, 8mm,10mm, regular screwdriver, dykes and a knife should get it out depending on how complete the car is.
    I have 3 V6 contours so I have done it once or twice.

  21. #46
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Cool, thanks. I'll have to get back out there and try again.

  22. #47

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    Finally got all the parts to finish the fan install. It took a while to turn on because its in the single digits here.
    I mounted the Volvo controller where the temp switch was located and made the wires as short as possible.


    It has plenty of room and is easy to remove if I have to.

  23. #48

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    I got a mustang hood scoop to add to the retro look of the car. Its not bolted down, just sitting for fitment. I also got some 302 emblems to keep with the 70s feel of things.
    It needs some tweeking to fit the shape of the Zephyr hood.
    I looked for a Fairmont turbo scoop but they are beyond impossible to find. Still not sure if I will leave it black or paint it white.

  24. #49

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    Searching Craigslist this morning I found what I thought was the perfect set of seats. Period correct, within a couple years, and in great shape.
    Turbo Coupe seats in blue and gray. The back seat has a couple of fitment issues, but they can be sorted.
    The guy selling them had a mustang he was putting an LS motor into. I threw up a little, but to each his own

  25. #50
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    Man, that's nice, and let me chime in with everyone else....You got a screaming deal on the car for what was already done. You've added what amounts to another 3K in upgrades, very tastefully.
    Any plans for 4 whl discs ?

    Chuck

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