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  1. #51

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hissing Cobra View Post
    SVT1 (Brian) took one from the passenger seat today as I ripped off every gear to 6,600 rpms. I don't know if he can post it here or not. In the next few days I'll take another video of it idling and post it up here.
    Sweet!! So how hard does it pull to 6600? I know its a great feeling to get one back on the road after a major setback you went through Pete. Congrats and enjoy my friend!!!

    Don

  2. #52
    FEP Senior Member SVT1's Avatar
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    Pete,

    I'm not sure how to post videos from my iPhone. If someone can chime in I'd be happy to try.

    I will say that the car runs super and both Pete and his brother did a fine job getting it back together so thoroughly. The drivability is outstanding and I really enjoyed the opportunity together a ride in it!

    The car flat rips! I'd say it pulls similar to my old 2V GT with 10 psi of boost!
    1987 Mustang GT
    Trick flow H/C/I. Boost.

    2002 Mustang GT convertible.
    Wife's car.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by LilRed86coupe View Post
    Sweet!! So how hard does it pull to 6600? I know its a great feeling to get one back on the road after a major setback you went through Pete. Congrats and enjoy my friend!!!

    Don
    Don,

    It seems to pull really good, especially in 3rd and 4th gears. It definitely feels stronger in those two gears compared to my 306, which ran mid to high 12's (depending upon my driving). Will it run in the 11's? I certainly hope so! Unfortunately, our track is closed until April so I can't get any track times yet. As for dyno numbers, I want to drive it as much as possible over the next few months (as long as there's no salt residue on the roads) and try to get as many miles on it as possible before I take it to one of those. I'm hoping for somewhere around 400 hp at the tires. Hopefully it'll be in that area. So far I've got 70 miles on it without any issues and the oil pressure is good at 50-60 psi while driving (depending upon the rpm), and the water temp is at a steady 180 degrees. Both are good signs!
    Pete

    1979 Mustang Cobra
    347/T-5/4.30's
    419 rwhp/382 rwt (New Motor)
    11.86 @ 117.78

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38


    1989 Mustang LX
    302/T-5/3.73's
    Daily Driver
    14.66 @ 95.63

  4. #54
    FEP Supporter Zap's 85 GT's Avatar
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    Good to hear. I'd like to think I can plan a next round of upgrades for my car but unless something changes in the economy, I'll just need to keep what I have for a while.

    I was wanting to install a tubular k-member of some sort. But that snowballs and will be at least $1k to do it right.
    Black 1985 GT
    Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
    Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
    Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 352, Tremec 3550

  5. #55

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    I hope that your transmission is OK. The lack of endplay could mess it up, too. You'd think that the trans would grenade before the engine, but not necessarily.
    Did you check the input shaft endplay? Even if not, it should be OK.

    Maybe make a note to check those clearances the next time the tranny is out.

    Here's to not having to do any more drivetrain R&Rs, any time soon.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears, A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6) with smaller pulley ('94 Tempo), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 300,000 in Fox Body cars.

  6. #56

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    Glad you got it all worked out.

  7. #57
    FEP Senior Member SVT1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hissing Cobra View Post
    Don,

    It seems to pull really good, especially in 3rd and 4th gears. It definitely feels stronger in those two gears compared to my 306, which ran mid to high 12's (depending upon my driving). Will it run in the 11's? I certainly hope so!

    I don't think there is any danger of it not running 11's. The goal needs to be set at high 10's with this level of power. Obviously the tranny will be an inhibiting factor until that is dealt with at some point, at any rate.
    The car should trap 118-122 judging by my butt dyno.

    Edit: I just remembered that you short shift the car to preserve the motor. If you raise the RPM's a smidge at the track only, you'll hit those numbers no doubt. I'd run race gas ALWAYS at the track, cheap insurance, especially if you decide to bump the timing a tad and rev it higher.....but it's premature to start talking about breaking it yet! lol
    Last edited by Hissing Cobra; 11-26-2013 at 02:50 PM.
    1987 Mustang GT
    Trick flow H/C/I. Boost.

    2002 Mustang GT convertible.
    Wife's car.

  8. #58
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    Brian,

    When you quoted me, you forgot to add the [/QUOTE] on the end so it didn't post right. I just edited that and I think this is what you were looking for. Anyway, thanks for the kind words and your thoughts on what it should run. I hope it does what you're thinking!
    Pete

    1979 Mustang Cobra
    347/T-5/4.30's
    419 rwhp/382 rwt (New Motor)
    11.86 @ 117.78

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38


    1989 Mustang LX
    302/T-5/3.73's
    Daily Driver
    14.66 @ 95.63

  9. #59
    Venomous Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by grabbergreen84 View Post
    I hope that your transmission is OK. The lack of endplay could mess it up, too. You'd think that the trans would grenade before the engine, but not necessarily.
    Did you check the input shaft endplay? Even if not, it should be OK.

    Maybe make a note to check those clearances the next time the tranny is out.

    Here's to not having to do any more drivetrain R&Rs, any time soon.
    The transmission checks out fine in that area but just to ease our minds, we also took that apart to check things. We found a broken shift fork, complete with missing plastic tab but my brother was able to fix that as well. This tranny is going to have to work until I can get up the funds to fix my Tremec 3550, which has been sitting in a box for 7 years now. It's time to pull it out, make a list of things that it's going to need and work a bunch more side jobs to gather the necessary coins to fix it.
    Pete

    1979 Mustang Cobra
    347/T-5/4.30's
    419 rwhp/382 rwt (New Motor)
    11.86 @ 117.78

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38


    1989 Mustang LX
    302/T-5/3.73's
    Daily Driver
    14.66 @ 95.63

  10. #60

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hissing Cobra View Post
    Don,

    It seems to pull really good, especially in 3rd and 4th gears. It definitely feels stronger in those two gears compared to my 306, which ran mid to high 12's (depending upon my driving). Will it run in the 11's? I certainly hope so! Unfortunately, our track is closed until April so I can't get any track times yet. As for dyno numbers, I want to drive it as much as possible over the next few months (as long as there's no salt residue on the roads) and try to get as many miles on it as possible before I take it to one of those. I'm hoping for somewhere around 400 hp at the tires. Hopefully it'll be in that area. So far I've got 70 miles on it without any issues and the oil pressure is good at 50-60 psi while driving (depending upon the rpm), and the water temp is at a steady 180 degrees. Both are good signs!
    Awesome! It sounds like she's running great Pete and that's a good idea about driving it over the winter to put some miles on it before hitting the track in the spring.

  11. #61
    FEP Supporter Zap's 85 GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hissing Cobra View Post
    The transmission checks out fine in that area but just to ease our minds, we also took that apart to check things. We found a broken shift fork, complete with missing plastic tab but my brother was able to fix that as well. This tranny is going to have to work until I can get up the funds to fix my Tremec 3550, which has been sitting in a box for 7 years now. It's time to pull it out, make a list of things that it's going to need and work a bunch more side jobs to gather the necessary coins to fix it.
    Give Hanlon motorsports a call for parts for the Tremec. I managed to rebuild a friends for less than I thought because he has quite a supply of new take-off parts to include 1-2 and 3-4 slider rings as well as 4th gear clutch cones among the most notable. Saved my buddy about $400 in parts vs new. He even had a good used main shaft that my buddy couldn't find anywhere else.
    Black 1985 GT
    Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
    Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
    Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 352, Tremec 3550

  12. #62
    Venomous Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zap's 85 GT View Post
    Give Hanlon motorsports a call for parts for the Tremec. I managed to rebuild a friends for less than I thought because he has quite a supply of new take-off parts to include 1-2 and 3-4 slider rings as well as 4th gear clutch cones among the most notable. Saved my buddy about $400 in parts vs new. He even had a good used main shaft that my buddy couldn't find anywhere else.
    Great to know Mike! I will certainly do that.
    Pete

    1979 Mustang Cobra
    347/T-5/4.30's
    419 rwhp/382 rwt (New Motor)
    11.86 @ 117.78

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38


    1989 Mustang LX
    302/T-5/3.73's
    Daily Driver
    14.66 @ 95.63

  13. #63

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    One more quick note. I've bypassed the clutch safety switch in all my stick shift mustangs. Think about it....we don't drive our cars daily. The car has sat a week, you jump in, mash your left foot too the floor, shove the crank forward in the block (where the oil has settled back to the pan), and then turn the key....

    In all my stick cars, I made it that you could start the car without pushing in the clutch...just make sure it's in neutral
    1984 GT T-top
    363 - C4

  14. #64
    Venomous Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by shifter View Post
    One more quick note. I've bypassed the clutch safety switch in all my stick shift mustangs. Think about it....we don't drive our cars daily. The car has sat a week, you jump in, mash your left foot too the floor, shove the crank forward in the block (where the oil has settled back to the pan), and then turn the key....

    In all my stick cars, I made it that you could start the car without pushing in the clutch...just make sure it's in neutral
    When I bought my Cobra there wasn't a Neutral Safety Switch wired in (the factory didn't do it back then) and the New England Dragway tech inspector told me that I couldn't race without one. Thus, I had to install one in order to race. I can't disable it due to that rule at the track. I hear what you're saying though!
    Pete

    1979 Mustang Cobra
    347/T-5/4.30's
    419 rwhp/382 rwt (New Motor)
    11.86 @ 117.78

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38


    1989 Mustang LX
    302/T-5/3.73's
    Daily Driver
    14.66 @ 95.63

  15. #65

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hissing Cobra View Post
    When I bought my Cobra there wasn't a Neutral Safety Switch wired in (the factory didn't do it back then) and the New England Dragway tech inspector told me that I couldn't race without one. Thus, I had to install one in order to race. I can't disable it due to that rule at the track. I hear what you're saying though!
    Sure you can! The tech inspectors aren't following you around on the street, right? You could jump the wires together, you could wire in a toggle switch, you could make a clip to keep the switch depressed. Just be sure to make the switch operational before you go through tech.

    Having read through this whole saga, I'd hate to see you wipe another bearing out.

  16. #66

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    The clutch is not a significant enough load on the thrust bearing face to cause any wear issues, and
    the thrust faces will still have oil on 'em even if the engine hasn't been run in a long time. You're
    not storing the car with the clutch pedal strapped down.

    A thrust face does not wear like Pete's did without something putting way more pressure on it than it
    should ever see. Most common cause is torque converter ballooning on automatic cars, but in Pete's
    case it was a combination of parts that were stacked up too tight, and finding their own way to make
    some clearance. Now that the problem has been found and corrected, there's no reason to believe
    it will ever happen again.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '79 Mont StaWag, 5.0, 58K original miles ... '81 Futura Coupe, 3.3, 62K original miles ...
    '85 GT 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT CFI/AOD Vert ...
    '65 notch, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ... '68 Vert 307 4-speed...
    (And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune)

  17. #67
    Venomous Moderator
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    Well, I'm very hesitant to post this reply 'cause I'm down and out again on what's going on. I've driven the car for 139 miles on the new motor in the past week and it runs really well with no noises at all. It's also got plenty of power, so much that I think I will be running in the low 11 second range. BUT, I took it over to my brother's house yesterday to check the endplay and it's already at .010 thousands of an inch. WTF? I'm at my wit's end with this and I'm pulling the motor out tomorrow night. The 302 is definitely going back in it until we can figure this whole mess out. I'm hoping that this time the crank didn't get wiped but if it's at .010 already, I'm sure it has. How in the hell can it go from .005 with the engine/tranny bolted together on the floor and everything checked, to .010 after installation and 139 miles?


    This is totally ridiculous and I'm at a loss as to what's going on. It's obvious the problem is no longer inside the bellhousing. Now I'm looking at what is different than my 302 and from what I can see, it's the flywheel and the front balancer. The bellhousing, clutch, transmission, driveshaft, starter, and transmission mount are the same exact pieces that were used behind my 302. The only difference there is the flywheel, which is now a Ford Motorsport Billet Steel unit vs. the original stock Ford unit. On the front of the motor we have a Romac balancer in place of the Fluidamper unit that I had on my 302. Am I too stupid or too ignorant to believe that either one of these could be causing this issue?

    I can't understand what the problem is and I'm about ready to burn this thing to the ground. Someone stop me from doing so.
    Last edited by Hissing Cobra; 12-01-2013 at 11:35 PM.
    Pete

    1979 Mustang Cobra
    347/T-5/4.30's
    419 rwhp/382 rwt (New Motor)
    11.86 @ 117.78

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38


    1989 Mustang LX
    302/T-5/3.73's
    Daily Driver
    14.66 @ 95.63

  18. #68
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    Capriman86's Avatar
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    Wish I had some words of encouragement Pete, so sorry you are having these troubles my friend

  19. #69
    Venomous Moderator
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    That's o.k. Jeff. It is what it is. I'm past the point of being mad, I'm now downright angry. I'm not mad at my brother as he's done all he can to figure this out. With his experience and his past history with building motors, I now deep in my heart that he's doing all he can to get this right. In fact, his 331 is still chugging along 6 or 7 years later without a single problem during that time. Hell, my 302 that he built me 9 years ago is still chugging along after hundreds of beatdowns.

    In the meantime, here's a little something that can make me smile. This is a video that Brian (SVT1) took with his cell phone while we were out earlier this week. Keep in mind that the ground was 25 degrees so wheel spin was in 1st, all the way through 2nd, and a little bit into 3rd as shown in the video. I also tried to shift 5th gear at 6,600 rpms and it ground so I got off the throttle and then put it in. There was no grinding going into any other gear and the clutch is adjusted correctly. In this video we were all smiles but I'm not smiling right now.

    http://youtu.be/KEWQudeuJIE
    Last edited by Hissing Cobra; 12-01-2013 at 11:37 PM.
    Pete

    1979 Mustang Cobra
    347/T-5/4.30's
    419 rwhp/382 rwt (New Motor)
    11.86 @ 117.78

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38


    1989 Mustang LX
    302/T-5/3.73's
    Daily Driver
    14.66 @ 95.63

  20. #70
    FEP Supporter Zap's 85 GT's Avatar
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    I wish I lived somewhere where there were secluded roads. Maybe I could have a blast like that one day when I move back to PA. Track has closed 3 years ago. Closest track is 2 hrs away and lousy.
    Black 1985 GT
    Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
    Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
    Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 352, Tremec 3550

  21. #71
    Venomous Moderator
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    Yeah, that stinks Mike. This was an on ramp/highway in a town that's south of mine where it borders another town. Between the two towns, there's only one gas station and the school population is so small, the school system is comprised of students from 3 different towns! I made sure I didn't start until I was 3/4's of the way down the onramp, where I could see if anyone was coming or not. Nobody was there so I let it rip.
    Last edited by Hissing Cobra; 12-01-2013 at 10:47 PM.
    Pete

    1979 Mustang Cobra
    347/T-5/4.30's
    419 rwhp/382 rwt (New Motor)
    11.86 @ 117.78

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38


    1989 Mustang LX
    302/T-5/3.73's
    Daily Driver
    14.66 @ 95.63

  22. #72

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    All you can do is tear it back down and see what you can find, and be glad that you caught it before it got bad enough to make noise.

    Maybe try to run the engine on a break-in stand, and see if the clearance changes any. That would rule out the rest of your driveline.

    It's nice to have another engine to install in the meantime. You must be getting to be pretty fast at R&Ring them...
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears, A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6) with smaller pulley ('94 Tempo), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 300,000 in Fox Body cars.

  23. #73
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    Yeah, I'm getting really good at taking 'em out and reinstalling them (I did this latest one 100% by myself) but it's not something that I want to keep doing over and over again for the same reason. It's one thing to keep an engine in there for 9 years like I did with my 302 and then take it out for a new one but it's a lot different when it's already been installed twice since July and I've got to do it all over again.

    Oh well, I guess I'll have to bite the bullet one more time. I have no idea if the 347 will ever be reinstalled or not. Until a definite cause can be found I won't have any faith in it and I also do not want to keep working tons of side jobs to throw money at it if a cause cannot be found.
    Pete

    1979 Mustang Cobra
    347/T-5/4.30's
    419 rwhp/382 rwt (New Motor)
    11.86 @ 117.78

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38


    1989 Mustang LX
    302/T-5/3.73's
    Daily Driver
    14.66 @ 95.63

  24. #74
    FEP Senior Member 4EYED85's Avatar
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    What bellhousing and block plate are you using? Also, when I bought my T5 for my auto 85 vert, the one I got was out of a 94 and the input shaft was longer and I had to change it out for the shorter one, the bellhousings are different depths.
    Last edited by 4EYED85; 12-02-2013 at 10:31 AM.

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4EYED85 View Post
    What bellhousing and block plate are you using? Also, when I bought my T5 for my auto 85 vert, the one I got was out of a 94 and the input shaft was longer and I had to change it out for the shorter one, the bellhousings are different depths.
    I'm using a stock type bellhousing from an '87-'93 Mustang and the T-5 is the same one that's been in my car for the past 4 or 5 years, first behind my 302 and now behind my 347. It's got the correct front input shaft on it as we've already checked that. After we bolted the motor/block plate/bellhousing/transmission together, we shined a flashlight into the bellhousing through the clutch fork opening and there was plenty of clearance between the tip of the input shaft and the depth of the pilot bearing hole. We then installed the Pilot bearing, purposely keeping it out of the hole by 3/16" of an inch to mimic the setup of the damaged crank. With everything bolted back together, the flared part of the input shaft was resting on the pilot bearing. We then disassembled the whole combo, seated the Pilot bearing until it was flush and rebolted everything together. With this setup, the flared part of the input shaft was approximately 3/16" away from the Pilot Bearing. Thus, there was plenty of clearance between the tip of the input shaft and the crank, as well as the flared part of the input shaft and the bearing. For the final time, we disassembled it, installed the clutch and fork, then reinstalled the transmission. At this point we checked the thrust on the front of the block by installing a dial indicator onto the front lower pulley. With a prybar on the back of the balancer, my brother was able to move the thrust forward and got a reading of .005 - the same reading he had when he assembled it. From what we could see, there should be no issues inside the bellhousing at all.

    My 302 had been in the car from '04 until this past July when I installed the 347 - a full 9 years. I've had a Tremec 3550, another T-5, and this T-5 behind it, all without a single issue in this area. This transmission, clutch, bellhousing assembly are the same exact pieces that caused no problems with the 302. The block plate was changed because my other one got mangled from the first bad camshaft/thrust issue. However, it was changed to a factory Ford unit from an '87-'93 Mustang.

    The only changes I can see are the Flywheel and the Balancer. I suppose we'll have to take those out and measure depths, thicknesses, etc... I will say that the pulleys on the front of the motor are in complete alignment with no visible changes between them. I suppose that if the depths/thicknesses of the flywheel and balancer are found to be correct, we'll now have to look into the crank not being hardened enough in the thrust area (how do we figure that out?) or the thrust bearings are defective (how do we figure that one out as well?).

    All I know is that I can't keep going up and down on this roller coaster. Sooner or later I'm going to get off of it.
    Last edited by Hissing Cobra; 12-02-2013 at 10:54 AM.
    Pete

    1979 Mustang Cobra
    347/T-5/4.30's
    419 rwhp/382 rwt (New Motor)
    11.86 @ 117.78

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38


    1989 Mustang LX
    302/T-5/3.73's
    Daily Driver
    14.66 @ 95.63

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