We'll To Be Honest.....After a Long Discussion with The Pinto Guys.....I Bailed On the Headers.
Seems That Are to Many Negatives....... The Motor is a High Reving Engine.......Headers Will Make You Loose Low End Power. They Also Hug So Close to To Transmission it will Cause it to "OverHeat"?.....and with the Lack of Top Bolt.....it will Always Have Exhaust Leak......I Went with Duals off the stock Manifolds......
Topic on Another forum:
Last edited by Fordhorsemen; 09-03-2015 at 08:38 PM.
You know, a friend of mine had a German Capri that had long tube headers on it, and he sold it to someone that is putting a 302 in it now. I'll check with him and see if he can still get them back, they may fit a Fox but we don't know for sure. That Capri had an even tighter engine compartment.
1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.
2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup
Your engine just needs tweeking.
My little 9.2:1 compression, 2-bbl 114 hp 2.3 Cologne V6 in my 1982 TF Cortina could do 118 mph after a big single exhast and cherry bomb resonator. Unlike your stock 2.8 US exhast system with its HEAPS better 3 out header, my stock V4 headers were inferior in every way to yours, yet it sounded so good. It started off with a C3 auto, ended up C4 Mustang 2.8, and got an IHI turbo and Impco carb for LPG.
I got rid of it due to new job, family pressures and a new house.
A 390 Vac sec 4-bbl and the exhaust mods you made are the only changes to kick start it. Then have your Duraspark re-curved to suit.
I'd take the heads off, have them resurfaced or welded up to get 11:1 compression , and then go for Pinto 2000 power pack valves and a 280 degree Schnider cam. Then look at a certain kind of water injection.
The Pinto guys (led by David Vizard with the Pinto SOHC 2.0), found total compression Ford engines can handle is huge if an anti detonation fluid is added. Early systems were above carb venturi Edlebrock Varijection, or above carb venturi washer bottle with two brass 16 thou holes or washer squirters with four failsafe systems.
One simpler New Zealand devised system eliminates four fail safe systems by a restricted up draft water injection system (it needs no starter solenoid, no hobs valve, no manifold pressure sensor, and it allows static advance to be wound right up. I'm running 12.7:1 compression with 87 AKI fuel on my Mustang with one of these kits from http://www.dave-cushman.net/misc/mannject.html
The Offy 4-bbl with all the above mods will be a stout day to day driver, and the extra power will mean the Porsche 930 Turbo style gearing will be endowed with Mustang GT power. You'll easily get over 190 hp with the following BEIGHT modifications.
Breathing (4-bbl carb and Offy intake, better cam, better compression),
Ignition (Fat spark from the Duraspark II is ideal),
Gearing (stock SROD wide ratio is fine when you start to get the engine past 5.0 2V GT power levels)
Timing (Recurved ignition Static 20 - 22 degrees, full advance 32 deg at 3500, with anti detonation via Robert Mann Water/Methonal injection)
Ethyl Cat:-"The thing that really prohibits people from EFI is knowledge and fear. If you are not comfortable with engine sensors and electricity, EFI is not for you. If you are.... jump in, the water is fine! "
NZ Fox Racers http://www.nzmustang.com/Images/Hist...s/pinepac1.htm
Tadpole https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLBNnGxDgtY & Stylus https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRvP8Y3d0K8
Racer who broke Stylus' Sounds https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cXJ1kHu4TI
1st Fox http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...=1#post17229616v I6's @http://www.xecltd.info/default.html
NZ Mustangs 247... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcf6UYVKbGo
05 grand marquis
dont just believe in miracles, rely on them!
Last edited by Fordhorsemen; 03-06-2014 at 02:09 PM.
WOW! That cleaned up great.
Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
USAF SSgt 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder and Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
Buyer/Seller Experience Link
The Four-Eyed Game - 2017 Version
Got The Intake & Carb on as well as
Removed A/C & Smog Pump today
Thought I'd share a video of it Running real quick
Still need to Plum Everything
I also Put Shift Kit in C4
Slapped Larger tires on Back
& got a Cowl Hood few weeks back... I'll post better video & pics soon
Can't wait to see the better video and pictures! Thanks for posting.
The A/C Has never worked. I Could Have Very Well Left it .
In Fact, I prolly Should Have....P/S Pump Flexes pretty Good When I Romp on it.
Will have To make Some sort of Support.
The Only Issue So Far Was that The bottom of Throttle Linkage Wouldn't clear Valve Cover
So I Hacked it Off......Maybe Should have Tried a phenolic Spacer?
But O'Well---I'm Just Winging It!
Also I neglected to Buy the kit That goes With Offy Intake
So I had to fab a bracket to hold throttle.
I also had to purchase
Holley part # 20-41 & 20-91
For the Kickdown
& Riser for Air Cleaner to Clear linkage
Last edited by Fordhorsemen; 09-26-2015 at 07:39 AM.
Romp Clip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGffESmKync
Rev Clip: https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...ient=mv-google
I Have The Hardest Time Finding my own Videos so
Putting This here For Safe Keeping.
Last edited by Fordhorsemen; 07-06-2015 at 01:45 PM.
I think whenever we get to putting the Offy and 4 bbl on my sons car we are going to be pretty happy! What exhaust system are you running? Stock type or performance? True duals or still the wye?
Good idea on planting your links here for safe keeping too (for me too).
Last edited by Fordhorsemen; 09-03-2015 at 08:43 PM.
No WYE-----I Left the Piping off the exhaust manifold for the WYE and Welded into that with the same size diameter exhaust Pipe
No H or X Pipe-----Straight back to Turbo Mufflers
The passenger Side rear Brake Line for 79' year model Seems to be very Problematic for anyone adding Duals-----I've heard too many Stories of Some1 getting exhaust done ....then not being Able to Stop as they leave muffler Shop!!
I wrapped the brake line in Heat Sheath to keep the exhaust from burning it , in the event that it Somehow manages to touch ......( no issue yet )
Looks good and sounds good. I can't wait to get to the point of having a running car again!
I think I found a good way to get around the brake line issue. It was member ChristmasGT's idea that I saw first but it looks like it will work. I picked up a used 2.5" H-pipe and exhaust system to use once we are ready so I want to be sure there are no interference issues. It requires an '84 pickup flex line which is longer.
Sweet Deal! looks like an easy enough solution, Thanks!
I've built a 76 mustang 84 bronco II and a 85 bronco II all with 2.8 and all motors rebuilt. later blocks are better, upper thermostat is a must, headers will not fit in a mustang fox or a mustang II clearance the frame rail a touch in a bronco II and they will work. 1986 aerostar has a front serpentine belt drive with self reg alternator ear location specific to aerostar - this is an awesome swap. Duraspark is awesome and a regular 2150 runs great. 1974 heads are suppose to have best compression.
Hi guys. I have a 1985 Ranger with a 2.8L V6. I am looking for manifolds. Someone can help me. Impossible to find for me.
Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"
1979 Ford T5 Ghia Coupe
1984 Mustang GT 5 Speed "Widebody" Conversion
1995 Ford Powerstroke F350 "Centurion" STRETCHED Crew Cab Dually
I like "Cut & Coach Built" vehicles!