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  1. #1
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    Default Lots of body/interior work and even more questions

    Okay, so after putting it off for most of the summer, I finally worked up the nerve to start the body work on my '81 LX.

    I spent a lot of today doing research, but I have some questions:

    I'm going to repaint the interior, but the dash is cracked. Is there any way to fill the missing areas, it's kind of a spongy material. I'd rather not try to order a new one, being a student and all. Would this need a different kind of paint than the rest of the interior?

    I've got the seats and carpet all out, is there a way to really clean the carpets that'd be easier since they're out.

    I've got a plastic (ABS) front facing scoop that was on the hood. It was just for looks, but I really really really want to make it functional. I've read up on it (and why I shouldn't), and I know about the possibility of it flying up at speed. Found an idea for having a removable plate to put on if rain driving is necessary. I was thinking to reenforce the holes in the hood (and the area around, it's already cut out to get clearance for the air filter) and the area around the bolts. But would that be enough? I could get a metal replica made at the sheet metal shop.

    Umm, what else? I'm sure I'll think of more when I get back outside. I'll post some pictures with a few others. Oh! I don't have a garage, so I'm doing this in the yard. the weather has been kind so far, but I'm going to get a cover anyway. Anyway, the exposed metal is rusting a little bit, should I put rust killer and touch up paint on it for now?

    Here she is. 1981 Mustang LX with an 82 GT front bumper.

    The engine. 351W with a 750cfm dual feed carb. Among other things.

    Rust on the passenger side floor. Should I cut this out, grind it, any suggestions? From what I've heard this doesn't look bad for a ford floor


    Front bumper is cracked and not really attached well. Any cost effective means for repairing it before paint?

    They had the spot where the emblem was body filled, but it was starting to come up, so i ground it out. Any tips for a better way to fill it?

    They both pretty much look like this. I should probably just weld in a new piece. Any tips for making a template for the metal shop?

    Probably a piece here too, eh?
    Last edited by jeremygee; 08-17-2013 at 04:52 PM.

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    Hit the floor with a wire brush on a grinder and see what it looks like. If it cleans up and you don't have any holes, treat it with rust converter, prime it and paint it.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1981 Black Magic 400 c6
    93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Actually, you might want to hit all those spots with the wire brush on a grinder to see how far it goes.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
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  4. #4
    FEP Power Member Bruce Mohacsy's Avatar
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    While you have the interior stripped might I suggest pulling off all of the old sound deadening material and lining your passenger compartment with hush Matt? Check out my profile photo album to see my job. You can get away with a "trunk kit".

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  5. #5
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    What should I do with any holes? Dad too a screwdriver to it and found a tiny one. Also, the hush mat looks really nice, is it very cost effective? Student budget and all

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    Unfortunately the only way to fix metal rusted through is to cut out the bad and replace it with new material.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1981 Black Magic 400 c6
    93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

  7. #7

    Default

    If it is only a small hole and nothing else, drill it out to a good size, place a small steel rod in hole and tack weld it. Cut off rod and grind smooth. Use POR15 to prevent further rusting, prime and paint.

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