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  1. #1176

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    Thanks for the suggestions.

    But yeah we'll see how it goes when I put stuff together. I got my intake back today, but it needs painting. It's too cold for painting here this weekend, so it'll have to wait a bit.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  2. #1177
    FEP Super Member Blainer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Medicine Hat, Alberta,Canada
    Posts
    2,876

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    There is an ES for sale 3 hours from me.

    Sent from my motorola one 5G ace using Tapatalk
    -Currently Searching for "The One"

  3. #1178

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    I would love to see pictures. I've collected pictures of every ES I've encountered online, and it's still probably less than 20.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  4. #1179
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    1,953

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    Search "kijiji alberta" -> Fairmont -> https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars...8667?undefined

    Mike
    Last edited by 4-barrel Mike; 04-22-2023 at 10:47 PM.

  5. #1180

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    Cool! Thanks. I might have to might him for more pictures, haha.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  6. #1181

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    Got some stuff done in the past week. Intake is painted and in the car. I decided to swap out some of the vacuum line stuff because of a tip from a friend. PCV system hoses can easily cause vacuum leaks, so I got a new hose, grommet, and valve. I got this LMR kit for replacing vacuum lines under the hood. I started with the fuel pressure regulator line, and I had spliced into it for the EGR vacuum switch line. It occurs to me I can have less fitting (to leak) under the hood if I eliminate that splice/Tee fitting, and run one of those lines to the vacuum tree instead. I'll need more 90 degree and straight fittings for the nylon line to make that work, and do everything else, so I decided to go ahead and install the intake and do that later. It sucks working behind the intake because the engine is sitting an inch farther back, so there's even less room back there than normal. I also decided to replace the carbon canister vacuum line too, so I bought a kit for that. It comes with a 90 degree fitting I'm not really sure where it goes. I replaced the stock lines with regular hose years ago. Not that I couldn't do that again, but I like that the kit comes with the correct size hose and stuff, so I'd rather do it the way it's supposed to be. Oh, and aftermarket valve covers + aftermarket throttle body = oil fill vent hose is no longer long enough. So, I have to come up with a solution for that too.

    Here's the heat sink spacer installed


    Nice straight path for the air to go on in there.


    Starting to look like something again.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  7. #1182

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    Spent a little car time yesterday. I replaced the giant hose I'd had for a carbon canister vacuum line with the LMR kit I got. Probably didn't NEED to be done, but it makes me feel good it's right. And it turned out the giant hose was the right size for the oil filler vapor line to the throttle body.

    Then I decided to remove the clamps and let coolant go into the EGR spacer and see if it leaked or not. It leaked. I checked to make sure I didn't have the gasket on wrong, I didn't, but it was still quite a leak. I guess I need to find out what the torque spec is for those throttle body nuts and crank 'em down some more. I took that to tell me it was a good time to stop for the day.

    How much I'm missing going to car shows is starting to outweigh my utter dread of working on the car and doing something wrong.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  8. #1183

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    I'm finding 12-18 lb/ft for both sides of that spacer?
    You might try using a thin skim coat of the Right Stuff on either side of the gasket, usually seals things up pretty good.
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  9. #1184

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    Double post sorry
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  10. #1185

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    Yeah, i decided not to mess around and used the Right Stuff on that gasket. I got things all put together, and the car didn't want to run without having my foot on the gas. Since the car had been apart for ages with long periods of me not even thinking about it, it could have been almost anything causing it. Fuel pressure was good, and I couldn't find any sensors or plug wires disconnected or vacuum leaks or anything, so I decided it must be the intake plenum gasket. It got mangled a bit while I was doing re-assembly. So, I went in and got the old one out. It didn't seem to look like there was any problem with it, but the train had left the station. I ordered a new one from O'Reilly since they were the only ones who could get it to me in reasonable time, the same day at 6pm. That seems to be true of them a lot. I think they're my go-to now.

    Anyway, I got things all re-assembled and the car would start and run by the time I decided I wanted to be done for the day. This was yesterday. Today was one of my favorite car shows. Over night, I decided that I really needed to do more to make sure the car was safe to drive to the show, so I decided not to bring it. I do not do all- or late-nighters anymore, nor do I try to rush or force things to happen with this car. It's proven to me time and again, it will probably let me down anyway, so there is no point. It's been better for my sanity.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  11. #1186

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    So did the new gasket improve things?
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  12. #1187

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    I didn't run the engine for very long, but I believe so. Next time I get some time I'll do an idle reset because of the new throttle body, and give things a good once-over before I take it for a drive. I'm going on a trip for 2 weeks on Thursday, so it will be a while before I get that time.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  13. #1188

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    Got some car time today. I went through and checked all the header bolts, and they all seem good. I did a base idle reset after that. It REALLY rolls when the A/C and headlights are on, but without them it doesn't so much. So then, my boy and I went for a little test drive and discovered I forgot to hook the speedometer back up. The idle still does the thing where it sticks way high with the clutch in coming to stop signs and stuff. Probably something that may stop with some more time for the computer to learn or whatever.

    You can see, I procrastinated quite a bit getting back to the car. Part of that was because of a debacle with these bushes we got from Home Depot that died within a week, and some other random stuff I wanted to take care of. The other part of it was that dread of discovering more problems as I work on the car. It takes some mental energy to get me out there. Hopefully I can keep on it enough to bring it to Summer Nationals this year.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  14. #1189

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    Does your tuning software have a VE table?

    The hanging idle is possibly due to IAC settings, is this adjustable in your software?

    I'll be at the Nationals this year, maybe Friday. Definitely Saturday and Sunday. Parking spot is on the entry road across from the autocross area.
    Jeremiah

    1986 Mustang GT 5spd, 3.27's
    PimpXS ECU/Android Single DIN Touchscreen
    SN95 Cobra Brakes/SN95 Front LCA's/Axles/S197 Wheels
    1998 Explorer Engine/Stock HO Cam 281rwhp/326rwtq

  15. #1190

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    I don't know off hand, but I'll be getting it out tomorrow most likely. I think if the table is in the computer, then I have access to it. With the IAC, I can at least look at what it's doing.

    I'll see you there then! I'll go whether the car does or not. Our spots are in front of the Grandstand on that patio there.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  16. #1191

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    Well, I figured out why my stupid speedometer isn't working. And no, I did not forget to hook it up. The stupid gear on the output shaft slid out of the way. I think I might feel it in there, but I don't really know what to do about it. And I'm pretty frustrated at the possibility I'd have to remove my transmission for the 5 billionth time, take it apart, and have to re-seal it AGAIN.

    I hooked up the laptop today and made a datalog, but for the life of me, I can't remember how to go and play it back. I haven't touched Binary Editor in probably over a year, so I'd probably have more information for you if I could do that. Shockingly, the Quarterhorse and wideband only needed to be plugged in, and they started working with the software like they should without any further fiddling. That was a nice surprise.

    And the heatsink thingy on the sensor itself seems to be doing what it's designed to do; I'm not seeing that error. It was pretty hot out on Tuesday, too.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  17. #1192

    Default

    Okay, I remembered how to look at datalogs, haha. The ISCDTY is jumping all over the place if that tells you anything. I don't have MPH info to compare it to though, obviously. The AFR in general seems pretty happy, so that's nice to see. There are a bunch of things you can edit with the idle. What would a VE table be under? Fuel? Air?
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  18. #1193

    Default

    VE table is fuel. How stable is it at idle, AFR at idle?

    What's the dash pot for the IAC set at?
    Jeremiah

    1986 Mustang GT 5spd, 3.27's
    PimpXS ECU/Android Single DIN Touchscreen
    SN95 Cobra Brakes/SN95 Front LCA's/Axles/S197 Wheels
    1998 Explorer Engine/Stock HO Cam 281rwhp/326rwtq

  19. #1194

    Default

    I don't see a VE table.

    I'll do a datalog at idle later and let you know.

    Here's what I can find for Dashpot Decay Rate. Is that what you're looking for?

    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  20. #1195

    Default

    Made another datalog today. I let it idle for 5 minutes or so after a drive. It was idling at almost 1000 rpm. I did have to turn it way up when testing it with accessories on, so that may be why. The idle has been hanging less coming to stop signs.

    AFR at idle is 14-15. ISCDTY is pretty steady at around 17.5.

    I got some fuel trim info, but I don't know how to interpret what I'm looking at.

    I should mention too, I'm a bit wary of my battery. The engine cranks slowly, and has been sitting a little below 14 volts while driving. I believe a weak battery can cause drivability problems too.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  21. #1196

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    Went back into some of my past here on FEP trying to find any clues as to why that happened to the speedo gear and what that stuff was I used to seal the tailhousing back on. I found the stuff, it's anaerobic sealer. I found an off-hand comment about how I had already figured out what ratios I needed and had the correct gears, as well as a picture that showed the output shaft with the gear and clip installed. Not much else though. I'm not even sure why I opened it up last time. I certainly remember all the that happened after that, but not the "why" in the first place. Oh well. I guess maybe I'll get a new clip, gear, and sealer for the day I pull it back out, so it doesn't sit and sit waiting for parts. I was thinking, and I think it's just the shifter that's the problem getting a good angle for lining things up in regard to pulling the transmission. Remove shifter, problem solved. I hope.

    I took it for a bit longer of a drive today. All seems to be well enough. I wore different shoes this time, so it was apparent there is a bulge in my stupid carpeting right next to the gas pedal. A problem from when they molded it or whatever. I guess I might see if I can do anything about that sometime. That might explain my hanging idle though. It happened a couple of times today, and as soon as I rev it, it drops down.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  22. #1197
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    5,149

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    Factory i worked at made, among other Fox parts, the c clip securing the speedo driven gear to cable.
    Never will forgot the number C1DD-17292A. Heat treated, dry phos and oil coating. Packed and shipped hundreds of thousands.
    https://www.npdlink.com/product/clip.../102658/150183

    If that drive gear clip has the number 4 in a circle stamped in it, we made that too.
    A vendor code. Cant recall that part though. Other companies make clips too.

  23. #1198

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    I've had an interesting couple of days. I went and had the battery load tested because of how the car tends to crank slowly when i go to restart it. It passed.

    I took the car for a bit of a longer ride Wednesday. I hit WOT a few times just to do it. Well, after that, my idle started hanging more. When I got back, and played with the throttle a little bit, there is a scraping sound coming from the throttle body as you open and close. So yesterday, I decided to see if I could do anything. I decided it was definitely a defect with the part, and went to find Contact Us on American Muscle's page. I wanted to simply send an email, so I wouldn't have to waste my time sitting there while they figure out which department I should be talking to, etc etc. Turns out the only options are phone (I HATE using the phone), and chat. Not too keen on chats either because usually, you have to try and reason with robot for a while before you even get to a person. You know, answer a bunch of questions where they give you 3 options and none of them is what you need. ARGH! So, the only options for the chat were related to specific order status, or "question about a part I want to buy". Well, I'm neither of those. Off to a great start. Surprisingly, I only had to answer a few questions before I got to the right person. Only problem was, he wouldn't help me. "It's past the warranty period, so there's nothing I can do". Not at all concerned that this is a safety defect? Nope. Here's $10 to go away.

    But anyway, I backed out the screws in the throttle blade a little bit to see if maybe that would do anything. It's a bit better at the beginning of pedal travel, but it still scrapes about 3/4 to towards WOT. Tightened them back up. Okay, well let's see what happens if I drive it now. I tried starting it, but it wouldn't stay running. WTF? Okay, let's see if it just needs to be warmed up. Took it around the block, and absolutely no way it was going to stay running unless the idle was hanging (which it did a couple of times). It died at every stop. I quit for the day.

    So, today the Street Machine Nationals begins. The one show a year I really want to have my car at, and I can't really take it there as it is. Kind of supports the cursed car theory I've always had about it. All week I've been "waiting for the other shoe to drop". What's it going to be this year?

    Anyway, any theories on why that happened? Can the throttle blade even shift in there enough to cause that? I looked just now, and I can't find any evidence I accidentally say, pulled a plug wire out or something. So, now I guess I'm going to do another base idle reset and see what that does for me. SSIIIGGGHHHHHH
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  24. #1199

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    Car seems to be running pretty well after the reset (which I can't explain) so I took it for a drive to get some gas. But, and you know there had to be a "but", the E8 overheating error is back on my wideband. So, I still have to deal with that bull****, apparently.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  25. #1200

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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Factory i worked at made, among other Fox parts, the c clip securing the speedo driven gear to cable.
    Never will forgot the number C1DD-17292A. Heat treated, dry phos and oil coating. Packed and shipped hundreds of thousands.
    https://www.npdlink.com/product/clip.../102658/150183

    If that drive gear clip has the number 4 in a circle stamped in it, we made that too.
    A vendor code. Cant recall that part though. Other companies make clips too.
    That's cool. You don't think about things being made here anymore.

    I went to Home Depot today to look for a sheet of copper I can use to make that heat sink from post 1131 in this thread from qikgts. All I could find were sheets of "copper colored aluminum", one giant 3 foot by 3 foot sheet of copper that does something for grills for like $40 and fittings for copper pipes. I grabbed a joint for 1 inch pipe and pounded it flat. It's only 2 inches by 3 3/4 inch. I guess what I want is 4 inches by 4 inches, so that's probably not the thing to use. Back to the drawing board with that. I might install it anyway and see if it does anything. Why not?
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 07-14-2023 at 07:17 PM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

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