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  1. #1151

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    The wrong EGR spacer is on its way back to AM, and they are sending me the right one. I finally got the opportunity to check and see if the error is gone on the wideband after updating the firmware. I took the car for a ride today and it is still there. I guess we're doing a heat sink or moving the sensor. The error came back after I'd barely left the driveway today though, so I'm kind of thinking a heat sink isn't going to be enough.

    The car was pretty happy to idle when I got back from my ride though. Makes me a bit more optimistic I may not have to have a car with a rolling idle forever. I noticed the damn belt noise when I first started the car though. It's pretty much unchanged from before I did anything with pulley spacers. I really hate that noise. It seems to go away as the car warms up though.

    Shifter bezel clips should arrive towards the end of the week.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  2. #1152
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    Jul 2004
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    Montebello, CA
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    3,435

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    my shifter cover kept popping up so I drilled small holes in each corner and then screwed some nice screws in to hold it down
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  3. #1153

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    Quote Originally Posted by NAVYCAT View Post
    my shifter cover kept popping up so I drilled small holes in each corner and then screwed some nice screws in to hold it down
    Good to know I'm not the only one that happens to, haha. I'm interested to see what these clips I ordered will do, since they look so much more robust than the current ones, but I will keep that in my back pocket.

    I was thinking today maybe I can try having the too-thick water pump pulley spacer machined down a bit. I don't even know if a machine shop could do that, but I'm going to ask. Probably couldn't cost much.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  4. #1154

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    The clips came. They are definitely cheesier than the ad made me think, but robust enough not to even want to go down into the slot in the console. You get enough so you can experiment a bit (25), so I tried a few things, but couldn't get a satisfactory fit. Plus they are too short, so even if you do get them in the slot, the panel sits a little bit off the console. The hunt for the right thing continues, I guess. I went and asked at the Ford dealer, and they didn't have anything to offer separately. You had to buy the bezel to get the clips. Screws are still on the table.

    I went to the local Napa machine shop to have my water pump pulley spacer machined, but the guy was off. Should be back Monday. I had a guy in the store tell me I can do it with a belt sander, but I'm so clumsy, that sounds like a good way to get hurt.

    I may start the header gaskets job in the next few days. It would be nice to have that done. I checked the new EGR spacer I got, and it's right, so that can happen soon too.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  5. #1155

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    I went to talk to the machinist at Napa today. He said there is no way to machine material off that spacer. He suggested trying to do it with washers, but I really don't think washers are going to fit inside the pulley on the bolts. Not well, anyway. I'd have to cut them. I think I'm going to try to make a second spacer out of sheet metal. It's worth a try, anyway. I have some on hand that's roughly half the thickness of the 1/16" spacer.

    I'm still planning to start the throttle body and header gaskets job. I didn't get to it today though. I found out Innovate makes a "heat sink bung extender" that's supposed to address your O2 sensor getting too hot. It's pricey enough I need to wait to buy it though. Or I'll try the copper sheet heat sink. Maybe both! Ugh. I just see in the Innovate literature, they want the sensor 2 feet away from the collector, and now I'm hesitating to move it up the pipe. Can't move it down!

    I got another set of clips for the shifter bezel from Amazon today. They fit better, but still don't really do the job the way I need them to. I'm going to let this problem go for a while and come back to it.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  6. #1156

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    Definitely try to make a spacer. That seems to be the best method imho.
    I would just move the O2 bung but you can try the heat sink. I ran an Innovate LC-1 on my last car, and it never really worked very well.
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  7. #1157

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    Definitely struggling to put together more than a few hours at a time to really get some work done on the car. Saturday, I got some, but I spend about all of it making the spacer. Grind a little here, drill a little there. It seems to get the pulley into a really good position relative to the belt. But is the noise still there? Oh, you know it is!

    Then I had to deal with the damn robin that was in our garage and wouldn't leave. Too stupid to see that it had to fly downward to get out the doors. We called Animal Control for some advice, and they said there's nothing you can do. Just have to leave the door open and hope it leaves. Ugh. It was in there all night crapping and dropping fleas on all my stuff and cars. It bombed all 3 cars pretty good. That was the 3rd garage bird we've had this season. WTF. Birds LOVE our house.

    I took the car for a ride yesterday, and all went pretty well. I never got the error code on the wideband for some reason. Could only really be the cooler ambient temp. Makes me a bit more optimistic that a heat sink will do the trick. I didn't run over any turtles this time either.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  8. #1158

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    So, I tore into the car yesterday. I found some interesting things. My collector bolts had worked their way loose on the passenger side again. I guess I need to put some lock washers on there. I hope that does the trick. I'm skeptical that any sort of Locktite kind of thing can be used there.

    Speaking of lock washers, I think I might try removing the ones I have on my water pump pulley. I originally put them on there in part to space them out a bit because they were sticking out the back too far for my comfort. But now with the spacers in there, I think it's probably okay. Anyway, I noticed the pulley wobbling when I first started the engine to test the spacer repair. You don't want that! I was able to tighten the bolts enough to make it not wobble, but I feel like those washers might still be causing it to wobble enough that that's what's causing my mysterious noise. Like maybe their unevenness is making it so the pulley can't be properly tightened straight. I know the factory doesn't put lock washers there.

    Anyway, where was I? I guess I'm still not convinced the ball and socket fit together all the way at the header to h-pipe flange. Could be wrong; hope I am.

    Up top, I started the throttle body transplant. Here's a dramatic before and after. The old one just never seemed to want to look nice despite my cleaning it up and painting it.



    And then we have this new problem. The air will hit a wall once it reaches the intake. I had thought 65mm to 75mm wasn't that big of a step up, but apparently it is.



    I had been thinking of trying my hand at porting if it was just a small change needed, but this is a LOT of solid aluminum that needs removing! I don't know what you'd even do, hole saw?!

    After I finish the header gasket job, I'll have to think on what to do about the intake. We're low on funds right now, so any work or additional parts will need to wait until next year. That's okay; it snowed yesterday.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  9. #1159

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    Get a 65mm Accufab and return that 75mm TB.

    The 75mm will be tough to tune on tip in and throttle transitions and gain you nothing at WOT.
    Jeremiah

    1986 Mustang GT 5spd, 3.27's
    PimpXS ECU/Android Single DIN Touchscreen
    SN95 Cobra Brakes/SN95 Front LCA's/Axles/S197 Wheels
    1998 Explorer Engine/Stock HO Cam 281rwhp/326rwtq

  10. #1160

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    Quote Originally Posted by Two86fiveoh's View Post
    Get a 65mm Accufab and return that 75mm TB.

    The 75mm will be tough to tune on tip in and throttle transitions and gain you nothing at WOT.
    I HAVE been wondering if I'm making things more complicated for myself... again.... dammit.

    Had a little time for more yesterday. I pulled the plugs out the passenger side of the engine so I could get the header off. Here's what they look like. The farthest away here is cylinder #1. It looks pretty different from the others. I don't know anything about "reading" plugs though so I don't know what that means, if anything.

    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  11. #1161

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    Quote Originally Posted by Two86fiveoh's View Post
    Get a 65mm Accufab and return that 75mm TB.

    The 75mm will be tough to tune on tip in and throttle transitions and gain you nothing at WOT.
    Lemme ask you this though. Isn't that assuming I have a good starting point with the 65? I do not. The thing starts like Ace Ventura's Monte Carlo. I mean, I guess once you're off idle, it's fine... My friend who did my cats was speculating maybe the reason it doesn't run well is because it's starving for air. The heads are ported on both sides, so I guess it's already not expecting stock amounts of air.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  12. #1162

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    The 65mm will be plenty for your setup, lack of airflow isn't the issue. What's your IAC duty cycle?

    With or without a good starting point with the 65, the 75 will be tough to dial in the throttle transitions. It won't be impossible, just difficult. IMO--if your having tuning/idle issues with the 65, the 75 will just make it worse.
    Jeremiah

    1986 Mustang GT 5spd, 3.27's
    PimpXS ECU/Android Single DIN Touchscreen
    SN95 Cobra Brakes/SN95 Front LCA's/Axles/S197 Wheels
    1998 Explorer Engine/Stock HO Cam 281rwhp/326rwtq

  13. #1163

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    You make some good points. Car is torn apart right now, so I couldn't tell you the duty cycle. I did replace me IAC though because I like throwing money at things.

    But yeah, I think I've found my header exhaust leak.



    The gasket was a squish as you tighten it one, and most of the bolts were just hand tight. Probably needed to heat cycle and come back and tighten them a few more times or something. One of those things that falls through the cracks when you're not really sure what you've done year over year, I guess. That whole engine replacement thing was really overwhelming to me though, and my head hasn't really been in the game for quite a few years now. I try to document most things in places like here, but I end up documenting so damn much, it's super time consuming to go back through it.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  14. #1164

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    Well, I put all that back together now. New header gaskets are in. I decided to ignore the "torque with oil or moly" thing. They are as tight as I could get them with a swivel socket and extension. I'll go back and re-tighten them, and install the Stage 8 locking thingies after I run the engine again in the spring.

    I put lock washers in at the header to h-pipe joints so those shouldn't back out anymore, and I removed the lock washers I'd had on the waterpump pulley. Changed the oil, and added the fuel treatment for the winter rest.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  15. #1165

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    Starting to think about the car a little bit. I should be able to get my intake back by the end of April. I'm curious if he's going to "bore" it straight through or do more of a cone-shaped "venturi" sort of thing. Should be interesting.



    I was thinking about my brakes too, how the rears don't seem to be getting any pressure. In case you're not familiar, I've been fighting with this off and on for years. One thing that stops me working on it is the possibility of having to flare lines. The engine bay to rear line is the only one I haven't replaced yet. But then I remembered that apparently braided stainless lines don't last and need to be replaced every so often. My fuel lines are braided stainless -6 and they're a good 10 years old or more. If I intended to replace those, that might make it worthwhile to buy one of those really nice Eastwood flaring tools. I could do solid fuel lines too so they would last longer.

    But then again, I keep saying I just want to drive it, and those are not easy, quick projects.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  16. #1166

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    Starting to think about the car a little bit. I should be able to get my intake back by the end of April. I'm curious if he's going to "bore" it straight through or do more of a cone-shaped "venturi" sort of thing. Should be interesting.



    I was thinking about my brakes too, how the rears don't seem to be getting any pressure. In case you're not familiar, I've been fighting with this off and on for years. One thing that stops me working on it is the possibility of having to flare lines. The engine bay to rear line is the only one I haven't replaced yet. But then I remembered that apparently braided stainless lines don't last and need to be replaced every so often. My fuel lines are braided stainless -6 and they're a good 10 years old or more. If I intended to replace those, that might make it worthwhile to buy one of those really nice Eastwood flaring tools. I could do solid fuel lines too so they would last longer.

    But then again, I keep saying I just want to drive it, and those are not easy, quick projects.
    For your fuel lines- it's not the braided part that can go bad over time. It's the material underneath the braided shield. If you used rubber then over time this will degrade mostly due to the ethanol in the gasoline. You will first notice a gas smell, and eventually the rubber will break down and you'll get leaks.

    I am using PTFE hose on my Zephyr, first time using this material. It's a teflon material that is impervious to fuels and will not break down like other hose. It does not require any special flaring tools to assemble the hoses. The fittings are re-useable just need to replace ferrules.

    https://hotrodfuelhose.com/pages/about-us
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  17. #1167

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    Quote Originally Posted by massacre View Post
    For your fuel lines- it's not the braided part that can go bad over time. It's the material underneath the braided shield. If you used rubber then over time this will degrade mostly due to the ethanol in the gasoline. You will first notice a gas smell, and eventually the rubber will break down and you'll get leaks.

    I am using PTFE hose on my Zephyr, first time using this material. It's a teflon material that is impervious to fuels and will not break down like other hose. It does not require any special flaring tools to assemble the hoses. The fittings are re-useable just need to replace ferrules.

    https://hotrodfuelhose.com/pages/about-us
    Yeah, I figured it was probably the material underneath. Still, pretty damn disappointing considering what you pay for a braided stainless setup. I just wanted to do it because it was easier than making hard lines and that way I wouldn't have to bend and stretch SEFI Mustang fuel lines. Those ones you used look cool.

    My stupid brand new tires are 9 years old now too, going back to the beginning of this thread. SIGH. That's what happens when you drag a project on and on and on.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  18. #1168

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    Well on my last build, i did not go with PTFE lines, because i wanted to save money, same as you, because of the cost that you mentioned. Fittings are expensive and they add up quickly. Return style system also means 2x the length of hose over returnless. I totally get it, been there myself.
    But trying to save money initially, ended up costing more in the long run. Was a tough lesson to learn.
    The PTFE lines should be a "buy once, cry once" type of deal, as they will not degrade over time compared to the rubber lines. Another advantage to the PTFE lines is that they have a smaller outside diameter, with the same size internal diameter. My lines have the stainless braid, but also an outer cloth braid which helps with abrasion resistance. Very happy with them so far, i didn't buy them because they look cool (even though they do) but because i'm hoping these are the last fuel lines i'll have to buy.

    Try not to get too down about your build, i think your car looks great and you did a great job with it. Lots of times these cars are never really "finished", there's always stuff to do and maintenance.
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  19. #1169

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    Well, first new part of the year. This is the spacer/heatsink for my wideband O2 sensor. Hopefully it will make it so I don't get the overheating error.



    My intake is done getting ported for the larger throttle body. Just have to get a time to go get it. It will need to be painted again after being hot-tanked to get all the shavings out if it. I'm still pretty uncertain as to how this season is going to go, but in theory, all I'll need is to get it tuned after that, and I'll be ready to go.

    But yeah, I'm perfectly happy to spend the money to make it so I won't have to redo it later.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  20. #1170

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    Very cool. Never knew they made heat sinks for that
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  21. #1171

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    Yep, we'll see if it does what I need it to. I remembered installing that spacer needs a supply of copper washers so you can line up the port with the exhaust flow. My google-foo is kind of lacking with stuff like this. I didn't know where I could go to potentially find copper washers the right size. There's a variety pack you can get from Harbor Freight or O'Reilly, but it doesn't have the right size in it. Most of what I found on my initial searches were these companies that cater to industrial customers and expect you to order like a CRATE of custom sized washers or something. Not helpful. But then I found out if you search for "oxygen sensor copper washers", you can find the right ones. Wasted too much time on that, haha.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  22. #1172

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    Sounds like you found what you need, but for future reference I've found McMaster-Carr to have a wide variety of hardware like that.
    1985 Mustang GT (Mothballed...Desired restomod parts acquired...Top of my project list for my 2024 retirement!)

  23. #1173

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85GTGuy View Post
    Sounds like you found what you need, but for future reference I've found McMaster-Carr to have a wide variety of hardware like that.
    Thanks!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  24. #1174

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    Bel-Metric also has a great selection of metric fasteners/etc.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS
    86 LTD Wagon

  25. #1175

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    but in theory, all I'll need is to get it tuned after that, and I'll be ready to go.
    Famous "last words" LOL.

    Best of luck!
    1986 Mustang GT - 2A, 5 Sp
    2018 Subaru WRX (Daily)

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