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  1. #626

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    Had a battle with the ebay power window conversion kit I've been running. Installed a new one on the passenger side, and after a significant battle, never was able to get it to operate smoothly.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...06#post1888106

    On a whim, I decided to advertise for a factory power window regulator. I found one!! Wow, I was shocked! Anyway, FAR better power window system is coming soon! Pretty excited about that, although I do dread taking that whole mess apart again and trying to get it to operate nicely when I reassemble it. These cars not having proper window tracks is a major inconvenience! That's actually what stopped the guy who had them from using them himself!
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 08-17-2018 at 09:57 AM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  2. #627

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    Well, I decided to take a break from the window project I was doing while taking a break from the brakes project, which I still haven't really verified that repair and gone from there. I'm just dreading finding out it's still broken and I have to fight with it more.

    Anyway, the break from the break. I bought a new horn for a new Fusion to put on my Zeph. The last horn, a "Blazer" I bought new at Autozone for something like $30, I've never been happy with. The tone just sounds weird. It sounds like a dying elephant. And I'm pretty sure it's not that loud either. So out it goes. Silly as this is, the new OEM horn costed LESS than the crappy parts store one. It's louder, and sounds a million times better. So, I get the thing delivered, and come to find out it takes a special connector. Shop around online and find it for anywhere from $20 to $75!! For the damn pigtail! I give in and buy the stupid special pigtail, which costs about the same as the stupid horn. Anyway, after I do that I'm looking things over, and see that the part that mates to the special connector comes off.



    The part that plugs into the horn is the same as another OEM horn I have lying around (single tone--lame). Just the special connector part is different. So, if a guy were less impatient than me, I'll bet you could hit a junkyard, find one of these connectors and pigtails and pay next to nothing for it. Just thought I'd let you guys know that. I've had bad luck with junkyard horns, so that's why I didn't just start there instead of buying a new horn. The places I go, make you pay for horns, and I don't like paying for something I'm not sure is going to work. Many I've gotten haven't.

    Anyway, very happy with my new horn!
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 08-22-2018 at 07:47 PM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  3. #628

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    Started the window surgery. I decided to take the opportunity to document the difference in window regulators. This is another one of those things where anytime I ever looked for pictures I could use for reference, I found jack squat. There is just not enough F/Z information out there. Ready for this? Here we go...

    Check out my manual regulator. It just goes to show how easy a life my car had before I got my hands on it. And thanks to Red78 we figured out that boxtops and coupes use the same regulators. It is a little over 22" long.





    Power window regulator. It's a little over 25" long. It's also VERY different from the manual regulator!





    Side by side.





    Also, before I found a real 2-door power regulator, I had wondered if it would work to grab a 4-door power regulator and swap arms with the one from my manual regulator. And.... nope. The arms are different lengths. 17" vs. 18".



    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  4. #629

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    So yeah, I decided to buy window motors at O'Reilly instead of RockAuto like I usually do because that way I could, in theory, get on with installing everything for the last time ASAP. And....



    FAIL. The stupid motors didn't come complete!! So now I have to order the stupid gears online anyway! Even most of the "economy" window motors on RockAuto come with the damn gear!
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 08-26-2018 at 11:53 PM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  5. #630
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Looks like you’re making progress.... but ARG. Blast those gears!

  6. #631

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Looks like you’re making progress.... but ARG. Blast those gears!
    Yep, oh well. Maybe now I'll take the time to install the lighted lock cylinders I've been sitting on since last year.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  7. #632

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    Today I decided as long as my doors are apart, to try and tackle the rekeying of my lighted lock cylinders I picked up almost exactly a year ago.



    I want to make it so I can use the lighted lock cylinders with my existing round key. I don't know if you guys have ever attempted this, but it's rather challenging.



    When i took my one old lock cylinder apart, I was not careful and the tumblers just sort of scattered for me to have to figure out how they go. The tumblers for the inner housing are pretty easy, just match them up to the key. It's the ones for the outer housing that make NO sense. I'd seen on a video that you put them in reverse order from the inner ones. Tried that, and nope. There's so much I don't know about this. Like for example, do the combined inner and outer tumblers always add up to the same length for all 5? I don't know! I'm going to have to be very careful when i take apart the other side and then copy the pattern for the one I have apart now.

    I'd hoped to have a locksmith do this, but found out there's a legal issue with that. Like as if I'm wanting this done on a stolen car or something. Ugh.
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 08-29-2018 at 07:39 PM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  8. #633

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    Now that particular job looks like a lot of fun!

  9. #634

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    Alright so, that job IS possible if you tap out the tumblers one hole at a time and keep close track of where they go. Take your time and be careful. Two things I guess I have a little trouble with.

    Before


    After


    I haven't wired up the little lights yet, but I plan to have them come on with the dome light when I hit the unlock button on my remote. Should be cool!

    I also finally got my window motor gears. The old motors' gears are the same, yes, but I would have had to at least order the bushings, and since I have new motors, I might as well have new gears too.



    The gear sets didn't come with the covers, so I had to take the old motors apart anyway.



    The bushings in them had completely disintegrated and mixed with the grease in the gear housing, which had in turn turned to gravel. No wonder they didn't work! But you're damn right I took those gears out and kept them as spares! The motor remanufacturer didn't give me gears, so no way in hell was I giving THEM gears!

    I installed the motors onto the regulators so, everything is about ready to go back together now!
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 08-31-2018 at 08:23 PM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  10. #635

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    Had a car work day pretty typical since I started working on this car. Installed the regulator/motor assemblies today. The passenger side went pretty smoothly, but the driver's side really fought me. I mangled the mounting holes a bit during the test fitting phase because I had to fight the return spring on the regulator to get the holes to even line up, so I had to straighten them out before I felt comfortable riveting the regulator in. And, for some reason now, the "Up" function in the controls doesn't work on the driver's side. So, every time I wanted to move the regulator the opposite way, i had to switch the wires around (so we know it's not the motor, at least). Could be my brand new switch, could be the wiring. Don't know yet. Freakin' FRUSTRATING. On the passenger side though, it worked out quite well installing the regulator with the motor already installed because you could just set the regulator arm where you want it, and it stays there.

    Here's a reference photo for anyone wanting to see what holes do what in an F/Z 2-door door. The mounting holes for a manual regulator are marked with an "M", and the power ones, a "P".



    In the power window How-To on MyZephyrs, he instructs you to drill access holes in the inner door panel for the window motor bolts.

    http://myzephyrs.com/power_windows.htm

    A good idea, but that's not really an option for a 2-door. The motor is mounted so low in the door, at least one of the access holes would show even with the door panel on. I figured if I ever find myself needing to replace a window motor, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

    Next, I gave some thought to wiring up my lighted lock cylinders. I'll need more room for wiring into the doors, so I wanted to use these rubber accordion thingies I had from the parts car ('90 Mustang).



    They need TWO INCH holes in the body. I would rather not drill such gigantic holes if I don't need to, so we're on the hunt for different ones. So, no lights yet.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  11. #636

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    My fortune from last night's dinner. I thought it summed up my Zeph pretty well. I keep doin' stuff, but I don't know if I'm getting anywhere.

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    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  12. #637
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    My fortune from last night's dinner. I thought it summed up my Zeph pretty well. I keep doin' stuff, but I don't know if I'm getting anywhere.

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    I think that pretty much sums it up! I think for most people doing this!
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  13. #638

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    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    I think that pretty much sums it up! I think for most people doing this!
    haha, yep.

    I did get the driver's side window fixed today. One of my brand new switches was bad.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  14. #639

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    LMR was happy to replace my switch. They didn't even have me send the old one back.

    On to my next thing. I'm rather proud of this...

    Before


    After




    Rear cupholder for the kiddies! And yes, my console armrest is a painted blue one. I might put a few new coats of black on it now that the rest of my console is so nice.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  15. #640

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    Decided to recoat the armrest. I seriously can't believe how much better it looks! Just a few coats too!



    Then I installed the new loom for running wires into the door so I could wire up the lighted lock cylinder. On the passenger side, anyway. For the record, this loom I bought fits all the wires needed, but wasn't really long enough to bridge the gap between the door and body holes. I had to stretch the accordion part to the limit.



    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  16. #641

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    The armrest and cup holder look great!

    I like these details a lot.

  17. #642

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    Thanks! Although I wouldn't mind having your talents!

    It's amazing what you can come up with when trying to avoid dealing with something else (brakes)!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  18. #643

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    Well, holy s***. I finally got the driver's side back together. There's a very good reason why I put off messing with the door wiring. I knew the stupid, chincy. wiring that came with my ebay power lock kit would cause me problems. And it did.



    The first few days, when I had car time, I tried to simply address where wires had broken. After having made SEVEN repairs, I came to the conclusion it was time to completely rewire this clusterf***. You tug on these wires AT ALL, and they break. You have to do a fair amount of tugging and shifting when you're changing out the loom they're passing through. Anyway, ALL new wires went in.

    Finally finished today. Although I didn't get to install the Illuminated Entry Module like I had wanted to. Going to do some pictures with the car tomorrow, so it had to be put back together. Probably be good. I need a reminder that this is actually a CAR, not necessarily a never-ending time-suck.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  19. #644

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    The power locks and windows are back to 100%. That's a big win. I was having trouble seeing any positive side about it yesterday, haha. And the lighted lock cylinders are in, keyed correctly, and working.

    Forgot to mention, my engine arrived. It's sitting in a crate taking up space in my garage. I haven't decided if I'm going to attempt to put it together myself or not. Getting the pushrod measurement right scares me.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  20. #645
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    The power locks and windows are back to 100%. That's a big win. I was having trouble seeing any positive side about it yesterday, haha. And the lighted lock cylinders are in, keyed correctly, and working.

    Forgot to mention, my engine arrived. It's sitting in a crate taking up space in my garage. I haven't decided if I'm going to attempt to put it together myself or not. Getting the pushrod measurement right scares me.
    That's one of the easier parts. Go ebay and get a checker push rod. It has a threaded section so you can make it longer or shorter. Probably want to get some checker valve springs too. Then while you check pushrod length you can check piston to valve clearance.

    I forget and didn't bother to scroll back up to see what engine you got. Just find out the stock pushrod length and get a checker that's capable of an inch or so bigger or smaller.

    I think mine is from Scorpion and it was $20 maybe.

    To check pushrod length, set it up to stock length. Put some whiteout or something on the tip of the valve stem...you'll probably have to do this several times, but spin the crank and let the rocker go thru its travel. Keep adjusting the pushrod until you can get the wear pattern on the valve stem as centered as possible. It probably won't be dead center, but as centered as possible. Measure the pushrod, order new pushrods. VOILA!

    Plenty of Youtube vid show it too.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  21. #646

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    I did buy a pushrod measuring tool from LMR. Comes with a solid lifter and an adjustable length pushrod thingy like you describe.

    But every "measure pushrods the easy way!" video I've found on youtube starts with "don't use a solid lifter to measure!" and then "make sure you don't collapse the spring in the hydraulic lifter!". Yeah. Easier said than done, guy.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  22. #647

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    Took her for a loooooooooooooooooooonnnnnnnngggggg drive yesterday. For the most part, it went well. I did notice a few things. It's starting to get cooler out here and when I turn my HVAC to heat, I get cold air. So something ain't right there. If it's a cooling system problem like the thermostat not opening or something I'm not too worried since a new one will be going in soon with the new engine. But can a car drive a long ways like that with coolant not circulating? I wouldn't think so, so who knows what's going on there. The blend door cable feels engaged and stuff... Also, my amps don't seem to be turning on. I tried using my stereo for the first time this season, and got nothing. So, there's another thing I get to fix. Also, I missed my cruise. I knew that was out, but I need to fix that too. Stupid old cars...
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  23. #648
    FEP Supporter
    82GTforME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    Took her for a loooooooooooooooooooonnnnnnnngggggg drive yesterday.
    Glad you got out! So much fun!

    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    So, there's another thing I get to fix...Stupid old cars...
    And then reality...not so much fun!

  24. #649
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    I did buy a pushrod measuring tool from LMR. Comes with a solid lifter and an adjustable length pushrod thingy like you describe.

    But every "measure pushrods the easy way!" video I've found on youtube starts with "don't use a solid lifter to measure!" and then "make sure you don't collapse the spring in the hydraulic lifter!". Yeah. Easier said than done, guy.
    I'd get a little checker spring....they are only like 5 or 10 lbs of pressure. Just enough to keep it in place but not enough pressure to collapse the hydraulic lifter. That's why the say use a solid. But if the solid roller is any difference in dimension from your lifter then results are wrong. Some instructions say to take your lifter apart and put spacers or washers in temporarily to keep it from collapsing, but a checker spring is easier.

    As far as your heat, make sure your blend door is opening that the cable isn't off or broken. Check the heater hoses at the firewall to see if they are hot or not.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  25. #650

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    Thanks. I'll double check the solid lifter compared to the new hydraulic ones I have. I'll look into the checker spring too.

    I'll check those things for the heat.

    It WAS fun to get the car out. That drone gets to me on the highway though. Can't wait to quiet that exhaust down next year.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

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