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  1. #526

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    Nice work as usual! That 3m double sided tape is some strong stuff! I used it to apply fiberglass "eyelids" on my tacoma to give it a meaner look. That was like 5 or 6 years ago and they are still stuck on there good!

  2. #527

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    Quote Originally Posted by nelzfoxes View Post
    Nice work as usual! That 3m double sided tape is some strong stuff! I used it to apply fiberglass "eyelids" on my tacoma to give it a meaner look. That was like 5 or 6 years ago and they are still stuck on there good!
    thanks, good to hear!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  3. #528

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    Dude!! I am finally experiencing the feeling you must have for years! Your car is completely awesome and when you drive it you must feel such pride! I know this now because I graduated to a driving project for the time being. Keep posting up your progress and showing the car. You’ve been positive and helpful to me and maybe someday we’ll meet at a show!

  4. #529

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    Haha, I'm glad you are having fun. And thank you for the kind words! I'd love to meet up with you sometime.

    I dinked around with a few things in the past few days. The emblems are all done, but not much to see there. The other side is the same, haha. I carefully measured where they sat and copied that on the other side. I even had to measure the angle of the "flagpole".

    I already had the passenger door panel off, so I thought I would try to replace the window glass rivets and pivot thingy where the regulator meets the glass bracket. So far, it's really good! The window does not seem to rattle anymore!

    3rd, I started my dash clock and domelight switch projects. Pics are forthcoming for that.

    And finally, I avoided dealing with the fuel leak.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  5. #530

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    Okay, so here's what I've been up to. You may or may not know that if you replace your dimmer switch with the one from LMR, you will lose the ability to turn your dome light on with it. No idea why, but nevertheless, it's true. Well, I still want to be able to turn my domelight on if i want. So here's my solution.

    I'm wiring in this switch that I chose based on its similarity to the other switches nearby. I didn't like that it lights up, but guess what? All you need to do is not ground it, and it doesn't light up. Anyway, once it's in the car, I'm expecting it to be effectively "hidden" since it's mounted to the underside like that.

    Moving on. On the other side of the instrument cluster bezel, we have this little "low fluid" display.

    Well, my wire harness is 1990 model year, so it doesn't have that function. I had been using a 90-93 bezel, just because it was "cleaner", but now I have a use for this space. Having newer cars for DDs, I've gotten used to having a handy clock up high on the dash. So, i decided my Zeph needs one too.
    You pop the "lens" off and there are 4 little windows for your warning lights. It makes a nice structure to attach the clock body to.

    I cut out a spot just big enough for the clock. By the way, the clock is from a '95 Mustang. Here's a look at the mock-up. When it's finished, I have a better "lens" for it.


    I also plan to put my fan controller warning light behind this lens.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  6. #531

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    Got some more time with this recently. Clock is all glued in and wired up. I was able to tap into most of the circuits I needed right at the dimmer switch, as luck would have it!

    Next I went about wiring up the fan controller status light. It's made to just drill a hole and stick it in your dash somewhere, but I'd rather have it hidden. It would stick out, and I don't really want that. So, here's my solution. Pen cap.

    Cut out the end of the cap and stick the light in, facing inward. Drill a hole big enough for the pen cap, and glue it in, taking care to put it in deep enough that the light will be recessed. I cut about half of it off so I could see what's what more easily.

    Then, once the glue dries, cut the pen cap down flush with your surface, and vie-oh-lah, you have a recessed light!


    Now, this mess is ready to have the lens stuck down on top of it. The problem is, I'm using this piece of clear plastic (it's actually supposed to be a license plate cover), and I'm having a hell of a time getting window tint film to adhere nicely to it. I think I may have to give up on that method and go to spray-on tint type stuff for "smoking" taillights and stuff. Or find some other tinted plastic I could use. I'm drawing a blank on what I could use though. Sometimes I just go to the hardware store and wander the aisles looking for inspiration for projects like this.

    Anyway, while I'm in here, it was actually pretty easy to add some courtesy lights for the footwells, like I was planning on doing when I do my illuminated entry project. In the passenger footwell, there's already a spot for a 194 bulb (I assume for convertibles), so I just need to wire one in. On the driver's side, there wasn't, but I made a little bracket for one and attached it to this removable crossbar thing that goes below the steering column.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  7. #532
    FEP Senior Member ddx77's Avatar
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    Default '79 Zephyr ES Build

    How about a tinted headlight cover. Lots of them on eBay, just need to find a flat one to cut it out of.

    We've got a few plastic shops down here and they also sell stuff like you're looking for. Any around you? Worse comes to worse, tell me the size you need and I'll see if I can get you a piece and mail it out to you.

    Great work on this thread, thanks for sharing!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #533

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    Good idea! I'll have do some browsing over there! Thanks a lot for the offer! I'm not sure about whether we have a place like that here. I've never had a reason to look for one until now, haha. I'll have to look into that too.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  9. #534

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    Well, I shattered the piece of license plate cover I was trying to use today. I ended up ordering this thing:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N18LXJ0...ing=UTF8&psc=1

    It's cheap, and I think it'll do the job!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  10. #535

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    Got some time today. Cut out my new lens.


    The best way I could come up with to cut a thin flat piece of plastic like that was with a dremel and a cut-off wheel. Unfortunately it doesn't make for the nicest edges. These edges are going to be partially visible once this thing is installed, so I had to do something about that. Dremel to the rescue again. I put a sanding attachment on it and was able to grind them fairly smooth.

    I glued it in place using model glue. So then, I was able to do a couple of other things. First, since I had noticed that the courtesy light bulbs were visible in the footwells (you can see the cheapie ebay bulbs in the light bracket pic above), I swapped in some flat top LED bulbs and that problem was solved.

    https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...rofit-car/204/

    Then I had some fun with hood ornaments. Here's the Lincoln one that was on my car when I bought it.

    I didn't mind it because it added to the mystery after I de-badged the car years ago. And I had always intended to use the '06 Lincoln "ZEPHYR" emblems at some point.

    Anyway, I had acquired a correct '79 Zephyr hood ornament on a junkyard run years ago, so that's what I decided to use this past summer.

    But it's not a very nice one, and since it wasn't on the car when i bought it, I have no attachment to it.

    But, I wanted a hood ornament that matches my new trunk lock emblem, and I've always liked this one, so I grabbed an NOS example!

    It's from the same year Grand Marquis as my trunk lock emblem. And yes, technically it's not right because it has the Grand Marquis crown thingy on it, but the way I see it, these cars had all sorts or meaningless symbols and stuff on them from the factory (see the "Ride Engineered" dash emblem, the steering wheel center emblem, and the symbol on the PRNDL cover thingy for examples), so I'm not too worried about it.

    I did have to swap the Mercury hood ornament onto the base of the Lincoln one though because when whomever painted the second layer onto my hood, they didn't see fit to remove the hood ornament first, so there's a nice unpainted square under there that the Mercury hood ornament oval-shaped base didn't cover. Ever try to take a hood ornament off its base without breaking anything? It's not fun!
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 11-04-2017 at 10:13 AM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  11. #536

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    Here's a pic that shows the hood ornament in the mismatched base. No one will notice.



    I forgot to mention the fuel leak ended up being the catalyst for my taking the car out of service for the season. I didn't want to deal with it, and consequently the car can't be driven. I chose to spend my car time having fun rather than having to repair a problem that has absolutely no right to be there.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  12. #537

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    Starting to think about the car again. The dash light project ended last season popping fuses, but I think i might know what the problem is. Shouldn't be too bad to get that all working and buttoned back up. I'm anxious to get the lighted door locks in, but I have to decide how I'm going to go about it. I might wire up the door handle lift switches like a factory illuminated entry system, or I might just wire them to the dome light circuit and call it good, since I have keyless entry remotes anyway and the original function of the lighted cylinders is moot. The stumbling block here is that my wiring looms into the doors are maxed out, and I'd have to put bigger ones on and do new grommets. I think I might have some factory Mustang ones laying around somewhere and it would be cool to use those.

    Anyway, that brings us to the engine. I really want to do the rebuild/freshening on the shortblock I've wanted for this car since I got it. The engine is high miles, and judging by the condition of the parts car, abused. We're talking new bearings, rings, balanced pistons & crank, the whole deal. I'm looking at putting in a custom grind Ed Curtis cam too, and then get the thing dyno tuned. I would have all this done at a shop. I could probably pull it off, but I'd rather spend the amount of time it would take with my kids. We might get a bit of an infusion of cash this year, and that has a lot to do with it. If that doesn't happen, the engine stuff probably won't.

    Other than that, I'm looking at attending a big show in Omaha this September, and i don't intend to miss it. So, the car has to be driveable at that point. Any other work I do this year will amount to tinkering, I think. There are tons of things I want to do, but very little time. Getting that Mark VIII fan in will be top priority.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  13. #538

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    Well, I've decided I need this.



    I did make my own cupholder panel, but I've never been satisfied with it. And I've always had the intention of coming up with something else. It looks fine at a glance, but I need something better to be satisfied with it.



    The new panel eliminates the ash tray and the cigarette lighter (which is kind of cool because I did the same thing in my '96 T-bird going to a '97 console panel that did the same thing), so I'll have to get creative finding somewhere for the power point to go. And I've got my window switches there too. Hmmmmm.........
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 03-28-2018 at 11:31 AM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  14. #539

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    They have addressed a definite need and stand to make a lot of money selling those. I heard about those right away. They sent out an email. While supplies last! Haha!

  15. #540

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    Quote Originally Posted by nelzfoxes View Post
    They have addressed a definite need and stand to make a lot of money selling those. I heard about those right away. They sent out an email. While supplies last! Haha!
    Yep, certainly a great idea. I'd liked the idea of using the original Mustang style window switch panel for those switches, but now I'm thinking I need to make that lower area the e-brake lever usually goes in available so I can put the power point on the vertical surface behind the shifter. The Mustang switch panel won't look right sitting down there, so I'll have to come up with something else.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  16. #541

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    Hey, I know. I'll tell people the cupholders were Zephyr-only.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  17. #542
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    I wish it were that easy to put cupholders in my 85. I have even looked at an electric e-brake setup to make some room!
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  18. #543
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    I wish it were that easy to put cupholders in my 85. I have even looked at an electric e-brake setup to make some room!
    You could also do the Foot E brake like some of the other Foxes had. The hole is already in the floor pan for the foot E brake and I believe so are the mounting holes for the brake assembly itself on the driver kick panel.

    Most of the parts would be original Ford stuff so that might be a cheaper option if so inclined. Not as cool as an electric E brake, but . . . .
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  19. #544
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    What would be cool is to modify a foot e brake so it it could also be used as a dead pedal!
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  20. #545
    FEP Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    You could also do the Foot E brake like some of the other Foxes had. The hole is already in the floor pan for the foot E brake and I believe so are the mounting holes for the brake assembly itself on the driver kick panel.

    Most of the parts would be original Ford stuff so that might be a cheaper option if so inclined. Not as cool as an electric E brake, but . . . .
    I just removed the complete, perfect working E-brake assembly from my Fairmont, because Racecar.... Seems like it could be easily put in the interior of a Mustang, but I don't think they have the mounts underneath for the pivot/pulley. Still, it would be an option and I'm sure it's possible.

  21. #546

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    In my '79 Mustang years ago I screwed one of those flip-down RV cupholders to the door panel where the door handle would go on later year cars.

    Have you looked at the options plug-n-chug makes? I've seen one built into the armrest and one that hangs off the side of the console.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  22. #547

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    Well, the weather has certainly not been cooperative for car work.

    I bought some parts to try and kickstart my motivation. I know I said I wasn't going to start anything new, but I ordered some locking fasteners for the valve covers to make sure those don't loosen up and leak as they seem to like to, a driveshaft safety loop, and an EEC-IV extension harness so I can finally move my ECM out of the footwell (it's always bothered me), which cost exactly 1 arm and 1 leg. Should be cool!
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 04-19-2018 at 12:34 PM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  23. #548

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    I ended up getting crazy sick this past weekend, so no car work. The weather looked really nice too. Oh well.

    I was looking around at what's available locally, and I found this performance shop that sells their own rebuilt shortblocks. It's a pretty good deal at about $2800 compared to most I've seen. That's with forged pistons too! 9.5:1 compression. I do worry a bit if we start to get into piston to valve clearance issues since stock for my engine is 9.1:1. I'd rather not do anything with my heads at this point if I can help it. They are pretty good as they are, slightly massaged rebuilt GT40Ps. Although I've been thinking about upgrading the rockers.

    Only thing is, the price of the shortblock is more than I was looking to spend on just that portion. I was hoping to the rebuild AND tune under $3K. Not sure if that'll be possible though.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  24. #549

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    Looking good Brad! I'm finally getting to the end of being sick... just coughs now. I can finally get back to work on my suspension and sn95 brakes. I'll finally be installing that 2 point lower k brace this year that I got from you a couple of years ago.
    Last edited by banzaibullitt; 04-23-2018 at 03:58 PM.
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  25. #550

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    Quote Originally Posted by banzaibullitt View Post
    Looking good Brad! I'm finally getting to the end of being sick... just coughs now. I can finally get back to work on my suspension and sn95 brakes. I'll finally be installing that 2 point lower k brace this year that I got from you a couple of years ago.
    Nice! That should work well for you. Maybe sometime soon I'll get to see yours in person.

    I was looking around on the yellow pages yesterday, and there sure are a lot of places around that call themselves "machine shops". I can't imagine what they all do. I'm guessing they're not all rebuilding engines. Also, it's looking like this is probably not going to be a "one stop" deal where I could get my short block freshened and my ECM tuned at the same place.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

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