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  1. #776

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    Finally have the stupid detent ball so I can put the trans back together. I brought my lower intake to a friend to have it gasket matched. He told me he's had Scorpion rockers come apart on him and kill a couple of engines. So yeah, I'm worried about that now. Street Machine Nationals starts tomorrow, so.... that ain't happenin'.



    I started a new thread discussing the valvetrain issues.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...on-a-GT40P-302

    I'm very slowly starting to understand what needs to happen and get comfortable enough to get it done. I did learn though that one of my new head gaskets is junk now because I used it for mock-up. Gotta love that.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  2. #777

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    Trans is all put together, just have to fill it with fluid. I was looking for something to lubricate the throwout bearing as it rides on the bearing retainer. I ended up using wheel bearing grease since I've heard stuff like ball joint grease can cook and turn into glue under those conditions.

    I was trying to put the rest of my valve springs on, but it's just too damn hot. I couldn't get a good grip on the stupid c-clamp valve spring remover. You know it's hot when your forearms are sweating.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  3. #778

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    Got the intake back all gasket matched



    I got some car time today, so I spent it trying to clean some of the oil crud off the bottom of the intake since it was probably infused with metal shavings while the porting was being done. Then, I spent a bunch of time looking for my liquid teflon sealant. I did find it, so I could go ahead and put some of the intake back together with the fittings and sending units that go into the water jacket. I found out the fitting i bought to adapt my mechanical temp gauge is not the right size for the fitting that comes with the gauge. STUPID. Anyone know what size that damn thing is?

    Then I slathered more bearing grease on the new throwout bearing. I got the idea the previous dose would be inadequate. I scraped the old gasket foil stuff off my headers to get them ready to reinstall. So then, not being able to come up with any other distractions, I did a piston to valve test on my engine with both exhaust and intake valves operating with solid lifters. There is tons of room. Both came out over .200" without a gasket. So no worries there.

    I was talking to my friend who did the intake porting and found out he would do my valvetrain for me. I'll be there to hand him tools and stuff, so I might still learn something, but that's a big relief! For a couple hundred bucks, it's worth it to not screw this up!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  4. #779

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    The engine is all ready for the pro to come and do the valvetrain and stuff, so I'm trying to get whatever else I can done in the meantime. He's going to need to come twice because we don't have pushrods and will need to order them once the length is determined. I figure the second time he comes I'll have the engine in the car so we could maybe even get to the point of firing it up.

    Other than that, I polished up my strut tower brace with some compound and polish. It looks a lot better! That thing's taken a beating being in a car I'm constantly having to wrench on. It still has some scratches, but I figure it matches the rest of the car.

    I finished up my stereo install from last fall by cutting out a spot for the USB port on my console.



    I thought the e-brake lever opening was the perfect spot for it to look "at home" and not tacked on like the American Muscle's cupholder console panel's do.

    I started trying to get the exhaust sorted too. There were some temporary measures made to hold the tailpipes up way back when we first installed the catbacks (10 years ago) that I'm just now getting around to making something permanent to hold them like they belong. More on that later. Also, the extension pieces that were welded in are not stainless, so they have rusted quite a bit, so I'm going to do something about that. The exhaust is going to need to be modified quite a bit to work with the new H-pipe I bought. Since moving the engine back, I had shortened the tubes where the cats usually go so that the rear flanges of the h-pipe would sit where they normally do. But now, I bought a stock crossmember exhaust hanger bracket so I can actually hang the exhaust as the factory intended. But, that will dictate "h" portion of the midpipe move rearward, and the rear flanges with it. Because of that, I'll need to cut my catbacks to fit forward of the mufflers. And that doesn't even get into adding the cats!

    Lots of work to do under there before we can drive. Also, I need to swap to the new clutch cable. NOT looking forward to that job.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  5. #780

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    Did that grinding I've been meaning to do on my tailpipes. I figured now is the time because I'll be fiddling with the exhaust anyway. I ground down the butt-welds that attached the extension pieces to the LX 5.0 tailpipes. This is what they looked like:


    After grinding and painting:

    I tried the chrome spray paint as suggested Stymees'mont. I know you can still see the joints, but I'm really happy with them! My friend who did the work said not to grind them down too far just in case, and I'd rather they have that little flaw in their looks than fall apart on me and put me in the position to have to figure out a way to repair them. I didn't bother grinding the welds on the pipes in front of the mufflers, but I cleaned the rust off and painted them black to match the mufflers. Which were black already.

    Anyway, I promised more details on the temporary way we hung the tailpipes, here it is

    It held for all that time! The "90 degree bolt" went up though the trunk floor between the body and bumper, and was held in with the nut. It did rattle over bumps. I have a nice angle-iron bracket ready for one side, but I decided I should probably wait until everything upstream of the tailpipes is sitting where it's going to be before I do the final fitting on the tailpipes.

    I also started work on the Maximum Motorsports clutch cable project. I put a heat sleeve on the whole thing just in case and started to install it, when I ran into this.



    Word is, you want your clutch cable quadrant to be aligned with the MIDDLE of the cable hole through the firewall. Mine is clearly not, which no doubt contributed to my heavy clutch pedal before. It is sitting right at the end of the shaft too, so I'm not sure what I'm going to do about this. The car is so "not stock" that it could've been caused by any number of things. Maybe I hole-sawed the hole off center, I don't know.
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 08-08-2019 at 06:28 PM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  6. #781

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    Spent a good chunk of today like this.



    Working on Operation Lighter Clutch. Got the firewall adjuster hole nice and lined up by enlarging the hole and sighting down a piece of tubing to the quadrant.



    I also found that the clutch pedal was rubbing on a body bracket near the firewall. I'm sure it hasn't always been like that, but it is now, so I "massaged" the bracket to make adequate clearance.

    Here's a comparison between my old BBK quadrant, and the new MM one.



    Feeling pretty good about how today went!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  7. #782

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    Pushrods have been ordered, so we have some forward momentum on the engine for the first time in about a month! They are 6.350"

    I'm also tinkering with a couple of other things in the meantime. I'm thinking about where to put the Jegs temp gauge on my nice clean dash. I'm thinking the only real option where it won't look REALLY out of place is either on or under the ash tray door I added below the radio.



    I don't like the idea, but I've got to put it somewhere that I can see it. If I put it ON the ashtray door, it will be a nice, finished panel that matches the bezel for the power point next to it, but the gauge will stick out like a sore thumb.
    If I put it UNDER the ash tray door, it will be able to be hidden if I want. Problem with that is, the whole ashtray door opening/latching mechanism takes up a lot of space, and doesn't open all the way. It opens at about a 45 degree angle, so if, say I wanted to be able to open the door to reveal the gauge, I probably wouldn't be able to even see it. And the door may interfere with the shifter if it's open all the way. It would probably have to be a deal where I have to REMOVE the door if I want to be able to see the gauge. The door is part of the entire ash tray assembly, so I'd have to pull the entire thing out and then find somewhere to put it. And then at that point, there would be a glaring gap in the established lines of the center stack set by the power point bezel.

    I also found out I put my driver's side head gasket on backwards. There are coolant passages at the rearmost cylinder you're supposed to cover up, and ones at the forward most cylinder you're supposed to align with holes in the gasket. Silly me, I used the word "FRONT" printed on the gasket to guide me. And then, I found that I can't get my solid mockup lifter out of the #1 cylinder lifter bore with the passenger side head installed. ARGH. So, i got to order ANOTHER 2 new head gaskets. That's 3 wasted. Can we go for more?
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  8. #783
    FEP Supporter 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    Portland, Oregon
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    Reusing torque-to-yield head bolts?

    Mike
    1985 ascMcLaren 5.0 SC Roadster
    My '78 Fairmont build - http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...539-78-Big-Red

  9. #784

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4-barrel Mike View Post
    Reusing torque-to-yield head bolts?

    Mike
    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    I got some non-"performance" type head bolts, as Auto Zone refers to them. I'm not sure if they're reusable or not. I just hope they're not torque to yield. I guess I'll wait and see what the packaging says. I went to Auto Zone's website and the description is just a general one about the brand (real helpful ).
    Wellllllllllllllllllll, I had been operating on the assumption they ARE reusable. This quote is all I can find about them from when I bought them in '15. I never did come back and say whether they are or not. I did find the receipt with a part number and everything, but the information you find online is just as useless today as it was then. Plenty of general info about the brand (Mahle GS33316) and retailer, but NOTHING about the specific bolts themselves. I guess I'd better order some just in case. Because that's what I wanted to do, spend more money.
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 08-16-2019 at 12:16 PM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  10. #785

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    I appreciate you bringing that to my attention though.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  11. #786

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4-barrel Mike View Post
    Reusing torque-to-yield head bolts?

    Mike
    Out of curiosity, do you know for sure that's what they are? I know 4.6s used them, but it seems like too new of a thing for the '80s 5.0Ls. I AM replacing my bolts because I'm paranoid, but I seem to recall back in '15 I couldn't find any definitive proof one way or the other. I could look into it now, I suppose, but I just don't feel like I'm very good at "online research". Maybe I just don't know where to look, but I get really frustrated reading page after page of unrelated posts in forum threads.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  12. #787

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    Not sure about aftermarket, but the original bolts on a 5.0/302 should be reusable. It wasn't until the 90's they came out with the torque to yield stuff. I think the tool companies pushed for that so they could get rich on angle torque gauges. LOL
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  13. #788

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    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    Not sure about aftermarket, but the original bolts on a 5.0/302 should be reusable. It wasn't until the 90's they came out with the torque to yield stuff. I think the tool companies pushed for that so they could get rich on angle torque gauges. LOL
    Hahaha most likely. Or the engineers just found another way to make trouble for those of us who have to work on them.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  14. #789
    FEP Supporter NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    Montebello, CA
    Posts
    2,990

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    I thought that if the bolts had that tapered look to them they were torque to yield
    2017 Mustang ECO BOOST (DD)
    1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other

  15. #790

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    No idea. I think NPT treads are tapered...

    My replacement bolts arrived in town last night, but it looks like Fedex is going to sit on them for a day for no reason. The estimated delivery date is tomorrow, so I guess that means they get to be lazy about it.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  16. #791

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    By tapered I believe he means the 'necked-down' diameter.
    1985 GT owned since new

  17. #792
    FEP Supporter NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swearint View Post
    By tapered I believe he means the 'necked-down' diameter.
    yes thats what I was saying....lol
    2017 Mustang ECO BOOST (DD)
    1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other

  18. #793
    FEP Supporter 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    Apr 2010
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    1,646

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    Brad:

    FedEx delivers Tuesday thru Saturday. UPS delivers Monday thru Friday.

    Mike
    1985 ascMcLaren 5.0 SC Roadster
    My '78 Fairmont build - http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...539-78-Big-Red

  19. #794

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    Ford did use torque to yield head bolts on the 302's starting in late 1992 and up. The torque to yield bolts have the flanged head, that looks like a built in washer. The NON torque to yield have a regular hex head. Torque to yield are not reusable. I prefer the non torque to yield, be it factory or aftermarket like ARP.
    '79 Fairmont Futura
    '79 Mercury Zephyr wagon
    '83 LTD Wagon - future Mustang "Sport" Wagon
    '84 Mercury Capri RS - 5.0 5spd
    Owner of Victory Engines and Machining, LLC
    g2G

  20. #795

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4-barrel Mike View Post
    Brad:

    FedEx delivers Tuesday thru Saturday. UPS delivers Monday thru Friday.

    Mike
    WTF!!!!!!!!! Lazy.

    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin'Montdude View Post
    I prefer the non torque to yield, be it factory or aftermarket like ARP.
    Well, I didn't seek out torque to yield bolts. I would not have bought the Mahle ones if I'd thought that's what they were. I still don't know for sure if they were or not. I'm guessing the originals actually weren't, based on what you said since my engine was 1990MY. My new bolts are ARP.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  21. #796

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    The Mahle GS33316 bolts are TTY.Name:  download.jpeg
Views: 72
Size:  16.1 KB
    I agree the originals in your 1990 engine should not have been TTY.
    Sounds like you are good to go now with ARP's.
    Continued good luck with your project!
    '79 Fairmont Futura
    '79 Mercury Zephyr wagon
    '83 LTD Wagon - future Mustang "Sport" Wagon
    '84 Mercury Capri RS - 5.0 5spd
    Owner of Victory Engines and Machining, LLC
    g2G

  22. #797

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    Thanks!

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  23. #798

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    Received bolts, heads bolted on, ready for next step!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  24. #799

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    I decided to go ahead and cut out the ashtray. One of the things I hadn't liked about this idea was that it might look incomplete with just one gauge and nothing else, being a fairly wide panel. So then I started to think about what ELSE could go with the gauge. It came down to either heated seat switches or an air/fuel gauge. I thought it was more likely that I would add heated seats sooner in the future, so I went with that, and the gauge went in the middle.



    The switches will go on either side of it.



    I had to cut out a good amount if area behind the hole since this is a mechanical gauge, and also remove the rear of the ashtray so that the capillary tube can pass though and i can get at the gauge mounting bracket. I didn't cut the whole compartment out because that way the tray itself could be removable and still be relatively strong. I glued the latch shut because that was the easiest way to retain the correct depth to match up with the power point bezel. I didn't have to come up with a bracket to mimic its position, ya see.

    Anyway, it should look decent, kind of in the vein of a '15 and up Mustang with the extra gauges in the center of the dash. And it's not in the obvious late Fox extra gauges spots like the A-pillar or blocking off some of the A/C vent.

    I did have to drill a massive 3/4" hole in the firewall though to get the big, fat sending unit through.

    I'll post a finished photo probably in the next few days after the glue dries and I can finalize everything.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  25. #800

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    Gauge project is pretty much done.



    I've misplaced the black trim ring that it came with, but I'm hoping it turns up after I start putting stuff back together and I don't have so much clutter laying around the garage. I wired the back lighting using the circuit intended for the stereo since my Kenwood stereo doesn't use it.

    Here's a look at the giant hole I had to make in the firewall for the sending unit. I don't like how the grommet is sort of wide open. I'll have to figure something out to close that around the capillary tube. Once again though, it sure was nice not having the engine in the way under the hood for doing this.

    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

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