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  1. #901
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    qikgts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    Thanks, good to know I made a good choice on the clamps. I actually do have a few different hose clamp pliers. I remember back when I was wrenching, all it took was one time fighting with one of those to decide to buy the right tool!

    Alright, here's what I'm hearing. I'd been afraid to post it before now because I was convinced someone would be like "OH SH**, YOU'RE F***ED!! Be gentle...

    https://1drv.ms/v/s!AoCGgcTn9__YvVyPYN85gwI0an5t

    Edit: link should actually work now.
    $0.02...

    From here it sounds fine, just hearing the rockers and maybe a teeny tiny exhaust leak. IMHO there is nothing that sounds like a spun rod bearing, I hear no knocking.

    Questions will be answered by the oil. Drain it, look for shiny stuff and cut the filter open and do the same. You can run a magnet through it to find metal but the bearing material might not stick. It will just show as shiny little specs like stars in the night sky. Oil and filters are cheap (comparatively), so if needed do it a few times until you're confident in what you're seeing.
    '85 GT

  2. #902

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    Quote Originally Posted by qikgts View Post
    $0.02...

    From here it sounds fine, just hearing the rockers and maybe a teeny tiny exhaust leak. IMHO there is nothing that sounds like a spun rod bearing, I hear no knocking.

    Questions will be answered by the oil. Drain it, look for shiny stuff and cut the filter open and do the same. You can run a magnet through it to find metal but the bearing material might not stick. It will just show as shiny little specs like stars in the night sky. Oil and filters are cheap (comparatively), so if needed do it a few times until you're confident in what you're seeing.
    Good idea. I need to rethink how I cut open the filter though. Last time, I had to give up on the exhaust pipe cutter and go to a hack saw, and that ended up making a metal chunk mess of its own.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  3. #903
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    Yeah I know, it ain't free... but it is pretty cheap compared to some others.

    https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/8053...SABEgJrFvD_BwE

    Here is another neat one...

    https://www.flyboyaccessories.com/To...ter-p/3001.htm
    '85 GT

  4. #904

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    Quote Originally Posted by qikgts View Post
    Yeah I know, it ain't free... but it is pretty cheap compared to some others.

    https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/8053...SABEgJrFvD_BwE

    Here is another neat one...

    https://www.flyboyaccessories.com/To...ter-p/3001.htm
    Those are definitely cool. We have a manual can opener that opens the side of the can below the lip. They can be had easily at Target for $20 if I had to replace ours. Like if I got oil on it. I'll bet it would do the job though...
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  5. #905
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Doesn't sound bad. I think it's either an exhaust leak or you need to run your rocker preload again. How did you do your rocker preload putting it together?
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  6. #906

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    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    Doesn't sound bad. I think it's either an exhaust leak or you need to run your rocker preload again. How did you do your rocker preload putting it together?
    I left that up to my friend. He said he'd check it for me if I wanted, and I do want.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  7. #907

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    State of the zeph

    My goal for 2019 was pretty simple. Install the new shortblock. I did take on a few other things, and do a few “as long as I'm in there” things too. I thought since it's New Year's season, I'd go ahead and take stock of the project as a whole. How far am I, really, from having this car where I want it?


    Suspension/Steering: 9/10. I couldn't be happier with how it rides and handles. Pretty much everything on the suspension is new from the bushings to the control arms. The only reason I don't give these systems a 10 is because I'm slightly concerned about bumpsteer. I haven't experienced it, but I haven't driven the car that much. I've heard if you lower the car, you need a bumpsteer kit. It does have H&R Sport lowering springs, but the tie rods are parallel to the control arms, and from what I understand, that's what you want to avoid bumpsteer. So, I don't know.
    The Terminator rack feels great. Only work that will happen here this year will be getting the steering bubbled, and topped off with the newly swapped in synthetic fluid.


    Drivetrain: TBD. I replaced everything inside the bellhousing last year on my '91 T-5. I wasn't able to get the clutch adjusted all the way before the season ended. I love how the UPR angled shifter falls in hand in the driver's seat. I had the trans out this past year, and everything looks good internally except the aftermarket shifter has some wear in the housing around the ball shaped thingy allowing for some excessive movement. Probably will just leave it for now.
    I also love the feel of the 4.10 gears, but the jury is still out on the exhaust drone where it sets the RPMs at normal cruising speed. Changes are forthcoming to the exhaust so we'll see. I'm fairly committed to NOT opening up this rear end again though.


    Engine: TBD. Obviously we've got the whole new bottom end going, as well as most of the valvetrain and cam. I've also changed a few key minor things such as the coil connector. I've managed not to ruin anything major yet on this engine transplant, including keeping the refrigerant intact. So the future looks bright! That is, if this ticking noise doesn't turn out to be anything major. I expect it to run great. Work this year will be getting the newly acquired Cobra computer tuned. I plan to buy Moates stuff.


    Exhaust: TBD. I'm still in the middle of addressing all the issues I talked about at the beginning of last season. I have new mounting brackets for the tailpipes, I've painted the rusting portions of the tubing. I have a new hanging bracket at the trans crossmember for the h-pipe, new h-pipe, and cats. I slapped the old h-pipe in at the end of last season in case I got some driving time in, but that didn't happen. So now I need to get that out of there, mock up the new one and cut it to fit. These are all problems a Mustang owner would not have!


    Brakes: 7/10. Yep, so there's still this. I changed some things last year, but nothing came of it. The front brakes actually stop the car really well and feel good, but I still know the rears are not fully engaging. If I just scored on feel, it would be much higher, but I had to put the anxiety factor in there too. Probably looking outward for a solution to this problem.


    Exterior: 7/10. I polished the chalkiness out of the trunk and roof a few years ago now, but the whole car could use a wet sanding and buff. I want to see if I can get some of the orange peel out of it. I already own pretty much everything I need to do it. Before that though, I've got some pretty serious scratched and gouges I want to try to deal with. Not planning on having the car painted, but there is some work to be done. Other than that, the windshield leaks, and I really want to tint the windows. We'll see if I can make it happen. Also the doors need aligning. The passenger door is way worse, but even the driver's door doesn't close with that satisfying click like a well-aligned door does. I'm also thinking of starting to tackle the weather stripping soon. We'll see how badly other costs for the year play out.


    Interior/Sound system: 10/10. My favorite part of the car. It makes me happy. Haven't gotten the opportunity to play with the improvements to the sound system I made in 2018. I'm looking forward to that. For some reason last year I was getting crappy radio reception one time when I happened to turn it on. I'm not too concerned about that though, since I don't really listen to local radio at all. It does make me wonder though. Not much happened on the interior last year except the USB port being added to the console and the temp gauge. I made the temp gauge into a heck of an ordeal, but it's done now. The headliner does need redoing again, and I'd like to take another shot at covering the rear shoulder belt pods. Even perfection could use some tweaking.


    Projects with parts purchased, but waiting for opportunity: remote start, electrical system upgrades (maxi fuses, and bus bars), taillight module, LTD trunk liner carpeting, power antenna, additional sound deadening for inside the doors and a few other places.


    So, that's where we're at. Most of the “TBD” items are right on the cusp of being worked out. Plans already made, only needing the execution. I'm really hoping I can do this year, what I say I want to do every year. Get the mechanicals right so I can cruise it, and then leave some of the other tinkering for another year. It sat out pretty much all of last season (as well as several others), so it's due.


    I think I'll make this something I do every year. Take it system by system. Should be interesting next year.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  8. #908
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    Well Brad, it sounds like you got a lot done this past year. She is looking beautiful and I bet she drives good, im doing all the little things on my Capri now till I can save up for my new upholstery and then final paint. I got all the weatherstrip done so now I could start the final sanding and body work before paint.
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  9. #909

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    Quote Originally Posted by NAVYCAT View Post
    Well Brad, it sounds like you got a lot done this past year. She is looking beautiful and I bet she drives good, im doing all the little things on my Capri now till I can save up for my new upholstery and then final paint. I got all the weatherstrip done so now I could start the final sanding and body work before paint.
    Sweet! Yeah, you will be able to take credit for quite a transformation on that Capri!

    We'll see if I can get off my a$$ when it starts to be a bit warmer and see if i can get the H-pipe thing all done before the show season really starts to take off. I'm getting impatient about enjoying the improvements! Last season I just felt like I was fighting a losing battle at the end because by the time I got the hiccups worked out, the snow was coming any day.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  10. #910
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    I have to get my stock H pipe re done, I got it off that 94 GT parts car and it is to low at the moment. I paid $1400 for 4 new cats and I dont want to damage them and my 2 tail pipes just dont fit the way I like so a trip to the local muffler shop maybe next week
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  11. #911

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    It occurs to me that my car has gone through 3 almost entirely distinct versions. Here's version 1.0. All factory original except the wheels and stereo deck as I bought it in 2005.





    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  12. #912

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    Version 2.0. Stock 1990 5.0L and AOD. Mismatched 1990 grey interior pieces. 1999 GT front brakes and SVO rear.





    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  13. #913

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    And the current version, 3.0. TRE performance short block with GT40P heads and intake, T-5. All black vinyl matching interior. 1995 GT brakes all around.





    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  14. #914

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    One of my favorites here
    Would like to do same to a z7 or a 80/82 xr7
    1973 Montego GT 1981 Capri RS (351C)
    1971 Cyclone GT 1971 Cyclone GT
    1970 Cyclone 1969 Marauder X-100
    1970 Fairlane 500 (429SCJ) 1986 ASC McLaren Capri Vert
    1985 ASC Capri Coupe 2008 Bullitt 2013 GT 1985 Capri
    2001 GT 1994 XR7 1986 Capri
    1972 Mercury Montego/Ranchero conversion

  15. #915
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    Good set of pics!!

    Mike

  16. #916

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    Nice Zeph., It’s come a long way and you did some great work. I kinda liked the 2.0 version also with the 2 tone interior. One thing I have learned is project cars are never truly complete. Lol

  17. #917

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    Thanks, I appreciate it!

    Yeah, the two tone was okay, but the back seat didn't match, so it always looked wonky to me.

    It's not obvious in the pics, but all of the running gear parts were pretty much ALL different between the 3. Very little is left from the engine from version 2. Transmission is different, springs, shocks, brakes... even the interior parts are different. I tried painting some of them black, but I wasn't satisfied with it, so I hunted down as much natural black as I could. NOT a cheap endeavor. I do laugh when I see guys charging a million dollars for black Fox seats though. Changing the upholstery is not that hard to do.

    Anyway, I believe it was just after I'd finished the interior work that I ended up here and started this thread. My suspension was initially made up of used Mustang stuff which didn't stop the rear wheels from rubbing. So I went with new parts store replacement. Gabriel, I think. It was garbage.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  18. #918
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    just love the build
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  19. #919

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    Alright, so I'm getting a clearer picture of what this season is going to look like. I'd been considering selling the Cobra computer and going to a Megasquirt instead, but I now believe that would be a mistake. I'd thought the Megasquirt was more akin to one of those self-learning throttle body easy EFI setups you can get. But it's not. You're really starting from scratch with the spark and fuel tables.

    I'm going to keep the X3Z and probably just run it for a while and see how the car does. Previously, I'd wanted to get it dyno tuned right away so that I could "be done". It's now become more clear that dyno tuning is not the catch-all magic bullet I'd been hoping it was.

    What I'm going to need to do, probably, is get myself a Moates setup, like I'd been planning, and do some datalogging in order to see what I need to do to compensate for the fact that the cam is different from what the computer expects. I'm less freaked out by that now that I'm past getting the engine assembled. Getting into tuning was not something I wanted to even think about before I got that done.

    A key thing I will definitely need is a nice wideband O2/ air/fuel gauge. That's another thing I hadn't necessarily anticipated. So that will mean making more changes to the interior. This whole setup below the radio, which I was happy with, and had JUST FINISHED... has to go.



    I'll need to do something more like this, so there's room for that additional gauge.



    I've seen that you can get a "plug" of sorts for an unused gauge hole. I'll put my power point there. It should look nice. Anyway, the wideband is the best way of telling how happy the engine is under a given situation. Datalogging can tell you that. Should be interesting.

    I'd also been learning what I should do about my added compression from my new pistons and milled heads. I believe it's around 9.5:1. I'm planning to now run 91 or higher in it. As for timing, I guess you just have to go see what it will tolerate with trial and error. But from what I can tell, the more advance you can dial in, the better. Before it starts pinging under load. I hadn't messed with that much before. Set it at spec and leave it, or at least set it where the engine doesn't die. You may notice in the Version 2.0 engine pic above the distributor is far from where it should be.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  20. #920
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    Can you get a chip for the ECU? american muscle sells BAMA's but dont know much about them, I was thinking of getting 1 for mine
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  21. #921

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    Quote Originally Posted by NAVYCAT View Post
    Can you get a chip for the ECU? american muscle sells BAMA's but dont know much about them, I was thinking of getting 1 for mine
    Yes, that's what you get from Moates is a chip you plug into your computer. You have to use a separate piggyback interface thingy (Quarterhorse) to access what you computer it doing, log it, and then I guess you know what changes to make. I'm very new to it so I don't know too much about it though. The Bama one is intriguing, but I guess they don't let you do stuff like disable emissions systems. I'd only really turn off the AIR system since my cats don't need it (and it's not there anymore ) but I want that option.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  22. #922
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    I watched the video, and it looks like you open the ECU box and the BAMA chip goes inside and it connects to the harness
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  23. #923

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    Quote Originally Posted by NAVYCAT View Post
    I watched the video, and it looks like you open the ECU box and the BAMA chip goes inside and it connects to the harness
    Yeah, that's how the Moates chip installs too. it installs onto the J3 port, and most of the chip sits inside the case so it's not sticking out in your kick panel . That Bama one isn't a bad deal, considering what the SCT chip costs by itself. I'd make doubly sure they can handle your combo though, it's pretty restrictive what they offer tunes for. I seem to recall my cam even being an issue.

    I spent some time working out making a manual computer work in my automatic wire harness. I think I should have everything good to go after I move the O2 sensor harness jumper.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...O2-Sensor-Plug

    I also painstaking made a spreadsheet of 1990 vs. 1993 EEC connector pinout just in case Ford threw us any curveballs there. Oddly enough, they didn't. They changed a LOT of wire colors though.
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 03-08-2020 at 09:37 AM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  24. #924

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    The saga continues over in the O2 Connector thread. It feels good to be getting the wiring how it's supposed to be, rather than rigged. I've got most of the jumpered harnesses installed where they're supposed to be. All I have left with that stuff is finding the mate to the blue with yellow connector I found behind the radio, and installing LMR's Manual harness that runs from the driver's kick panel to the tunnel, along with a new neutral switch on the T-5.

    I noticed that my new carpet from last year or the year before smells musty underneath. So that's irritating. I also noticed the clutch pedal lever is moving independent of its pivot shaft. I tried tightening the crap out of it, but it will still move about 1/2" of pedal travel if enough force is applied... like a foot on a clutch pedal.



    Anyway, what must be happening is the square shoulder on the pivot shaft or the square hole it mates to on the lever must be worn. I guess I'm just going to leave it for now. It shouldn't really hurt anything. But I'll need to check that nut periodically in case it comes loose again. If the problem is the shaft, that's going to be a real b***h to fix, the pedal bracket would have to come out. But the shaft can be had new (or NOS, I'm not sure. NPD has it). I don't believe you can buy a new pedal lever BUT, a Maximum Motorsport Clutch Pedal Height Adjuster would solve the problem.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  25. #925

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    I haven't had much car time since I'm apparently a teacher now thanks to covid. Today though, I was finally able to fight the neutral switch on the trans all the way in. It decided it didn't want to go any farther without help about 60% of the way in (It didn't occur to me until later it probably would have helped a lot to put the trans in neutral ). Since the drivetrain is moved back, there is VERY little room between the top of the trans and the tunnel. Getting a tool up there is almost impossible, and the flats you need to put a tool on are inside of the round plastic connector that, as far as i can tell isn't intended to come off. So that means under normal circumstances, you would use an open end wrench. That sumb!tch is a 7/8", and that a big freakin' tool you need to somehow get up there. Most of the way I was able to get a crowfoot (which, of course, I didn't already have one that big, so that meant a trip to the store) on there, fighting it on and off with my fingertips, and getting just enough force to overcome the spring tension on the little ball to turn the crowfoot 1 flat. And then I got to the end and needed some way to tighten it snug. After trying progressively smaller and smaller tools, I ended up with this.



    WHAT A PAIN. Anyway, the thing is in now so we can move on. Ugh.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

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