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  1. #51
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    Default Which E-Brake Cable?

    There is a lot of discussion with E-Brake cables when it comes to the rear disc swap on these cars.

    From what I read, pretty much all easy swaps are with the Ford Racing M-2809-A emergency brake cables. These are also the ones that came in the Ford Racing M-2300-K Cobra Disc Brake Conversion Kit. Unfortunately the cable is no longer available individually: http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=1028 I am not sure if the kit still is.

    It seems that a couple of aftermarket ones are out there and I decided on the SSBC Part #1216: http://ssbrakes.com/i-10093052-parking-brake-cable.html
    It was available at The Mustang Shop here. It doesn't say it on the web page but the invoice states "Brake Cable Rear 87-92 With Disc (M2809A)". Not the cheapest each but it is what it is: http://www.themustangshop.ca/product/9374583/592872

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  2. #52
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    Default E-Brake Cable Install

    I had left the old cables hanging loose while all of the other stuff was done. I removed them now and prepared to put the new ones in.

    They slipped into the "rear cable equalizer" no problem:



    Routed around the pulleys easily:



    I had bead blasted and painted the clips earlier so they were ready to go. As you can see the quality of the cables are very good and I highly recommend them Note the sliding rubber to protect from hard edges on the right:



    I was lucky the day I went to the junkyard and got those shock bolts off that '94. I grabbed these cable clamps and cleaned them up as well. They are required or the cables will rub the tires. The location where the cable attaches to the caliper is different compared to the drums. They bolt up just like factory other than they need to be turned upside down. Note the rubber to protect here too:



    I had to release the tension all of the way at the e-brake handle to get enough slack in the cable to hook it onto the caliper. Speaking of which, the 1982 cars had manually adjustable parking brakes. Therefore I did not have to do the welding modification to the pawl in the handle. I also didn't need the extra cable from the lever to the equalizer. This was all explained in the installation instructions for the M-2300-K Cobra kit. Page 16-18: http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...htM-2300-K.pdf

  3. #53
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    Default Random Interlude: Netted Halos!

    Having read and seen a lot of threads and pictures of everyone's rides since I have joined FEP, there was an accessory that I kind of liked. That was the halo headrests. Especially the netted halos from 1983. I loved some of the looks in this thread: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...Halo-headrests!

    In my regular scanning through Kijiji I found a guy selling a set of '83 front and back seats and they had the black halos! he was asking $140 for the set and he was about a 40 minute drive from where I live. I couldn't convince him to sell just the headrests so I talked him down to $130 and brought them home. The seats were really quite bad. They had been in his garage and just stunk like cat piss. I took the halos off and ended up chucking the seats in the garbage. The back of my truck under the canopy stuck for a week after!!

    Anyways, they were in really good shape, just a little dirty. I rinsed them off and they looked pretty good.

    I had a tough time getting the original logs off of the seats. I ended up going from the back side and reaching up to catch the tab to release them. I'm sure the next time I were to do that it would be a little quicker. The next small dilemma was that the original headrest had a groove in the metal and the slot had the match to it. The halo didn't have that.





    The sleeve actually comes out and then the halo will go in. My question was answered in the post linked above (thanks guys) They totally change the look!




    Sorry for the crap photos.

  4. #54
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    Default Stance Check Test

    Now that the rear was in, everything was bolted up, the brake lines etc. connected I decided to throw the wheels on for a test. Here were the first pictures with car off the jacks in quite a few months since this began. It is pretty dirty from having sat outside at the first shop for a couple months before coming home.

    There were others that had issues with the cars not sitting at the proper heights: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ened-still-4x4 So frustrated he was going to take it all out! So glad I never had that problem! I think it sits pretty good.

    Big difference!! Before:



    After (Note: everything is still loose underneath):


  5. #55

    Default

    The netted halo's look awesome in your 82, and $130 is a pretty good price (its great considering you actually got all the seats as well...even if you did have to throw them in the bin). I'm a big netted halo fan (I have them in my 86), so I think you made a great choice ditching the logs. You are really doing a great job on that car, and your write-ups are excellent. Keep up the good work!



    Here is a picture of the netted halos I have in my 86. They are just so cool!

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    Cheers!

    Mike (TopGear85)



    Have:
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    ***August 2015 ROTM Winner!***

    Had:
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    86GT-9L,TuTone,5spd,T-Tops,Sand Beige
    86GT-9L,TuTone,5spd,T-Tops,Charcoal
    90LX-Oxford Wht,5spd,Sunroof,5.0 Hatchback
    90GT-Oxford Wht,5spd

  6. #56
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    Nice work on the GT!

    Looks like you are making great progress.

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #57
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TopGear86 View Post
    The netted halo's look awesome in your 82, and $130 is a pretty good price (its great considering you actually got all the seats as well...even if you did have to throw them in the bin). I'm a big netted halo fan (I have them in my 86), so I think you made a great choice ditching the logs. You are really doing a great job on that car, and your write-ups are excellent. Keep up the good work!
    Here is a picture of the netted halos I have in my 86. They are just so cool!
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    Thanks Mike! I would have to say that my basic black netted halos don't compare to your dual posted caramel Recaro's though!

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Nice work on the GT!

    Looks like you are making great progress.

    Trey
    Thanks for the inspiration. This site has helped tremendously!

  8. #58
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    Default Which Master Cylinder?

    There is a lot of talk about master cylinder (MC) swaps. The MJ Bobbitt site http://home.comcast.net/~mjbobbitt/mustang/page1.html gives some insight into this and there are a lot of opinions and discussion about the right way to go. Bottom line in this case: switching to four wheel discs requires a new master cylinder (among other stuff too).

    There can be braking performance issues by using the wrong one for your application. People tend to think that bigger (SVO 1-1/8" bore) is better. Not always the case. I am no expert on this, but from what I determined, if you were upgrading to a "Cobra" brake set-up, you should use the "Cobra" MC or similar. This is a popular choice.

    Myself, I chose to use the '85 Towncar one below. I did not want to deal with adaptors to metric (I believe lines are on the opposite side too), the low fluid sensor (which the '82 never had), plus I didn't like the looks of the plastic reservoir either.

    Here is more specific information on the master cylinders mentioned (from the site above):
    '84-86 SVO - (SAE Threads) 1 1/8" bore, old style aluminum reservoir unit. no low fluid sensor. This is the same as the 84-90 Lincoln Mark 7. The difference is usually the SVO is aluminum, and the Lincoln can be a cast iron unit. The aluminum is what you want to keep the weight down.
    '85 Towncar - (SAE Threads) 1" bore, old style aluminum reservoir unit. no low fluid sensor.
    '93 Cobra - (metric threads) 1.00" bore
    '94-95 GT/V6 - (metric threads) 1 1/16" bore, stock plug in for the low fluid sensor
    '94-98 V6 - (metric threads) 1 1/16" bore, stock plug in for the low fluid sensor
    '94-95 Cobra - (metric threads) 15/16" bore, stock plug in for low fluid sensor. Ports are reversed thread sizes from 87-95 LX/V6/GT
    '99 V6 - (metric threads) 1.000" and 1.006" bore. Can be converted to work for the low fluid sensor on the fox3 cars
    96+ V8 Units - These are hydroboosted and the mounted flange is vertically vs horizontal required for a vacuum booster. They will NOT work

    '93 Cobra MC:

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    The '85 Towncar MC. This is the one I decided on:



    The new one side by side with the original '82 GT one:



  9. #59

    Default

    I think you made a good choice. I can't stand how newer cars have a plastic master cylinder reservoir, it cheapens the look of the engine bay. Adding a nice aluminum unit was definitely the way to go, both for looks and function.
    Cheers!

    Mike (TopGear85)



    Have:
    85 Saleen #73-GT,2R,TuTone,Cruise,Pos,5spd,Charcoal
    ***August 2015 ROTM Winner!***

    Had:
    79PC-San Jose #2890
    86GT-9L,TuTone,5spd,T-Tops,Sand Beige
    86GT-9L,TuTone,5spd,T-Tops,Charcoal
    90LX-Oxford Wht,5spd,Sunroof,5.0 Hatchback
    90GT-Oxford Wht,5spd

  10. #60
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    Default Master Cylinder Install

    I had to do a little research about the benefits of bench bleeding a MC. I picked myself up a cheap kit and did it prior to installing. The idea is to get all of the air out of it now rather than pushing it out all of the lines later where it can get trapped and not want to bleed out. Lots of plunges of the piston later and I put it in. Of course this item was a direct bolt in. Out with the old and in with the new! I may have to adjust the push rod later.



    I first thought of using an adaptor, but it wasn't as easy to find off the bat, plus they looked weird with the line going to stick out further. So, with at least one of the lines needing adapting and stripping another fitting while taking them out of the proportioning valve I ended up replacing both lines. A few replacement fittings and a few feet of ductile 3/16" tubing was all I needed and got from an automotive and industrial tube and hose supplier. Less than $10: http://www.abilityhose.ca/index.htm I'll keep them in mind when I need any replacement brake lines as they offer custom assemblies as well

    I was now an "expert" flare maker from the previous lines I adapted on the rear. I estimated the lengths, bent them close with a 1/4" tubing bender, flared the ends and then made the final tweaks.




    There are also arguments about the brake booster needing replacing or not. As well, the difficulties one can have installing the upgraded unit. There are also those that still use the factory booster and have no "problems". I decided to leave mine as is. If there are issues I can backtrack a little later on. Read on..

    From MJBobbitt:Brake Booster Upgrades:

    Once you have the larger master cylinder on your Mustang, you may find that it takes more pressure on the pedal to lock up the brakes then you would like. First, check all the vacuum lines for dry rot, cracks or holes. Replace all hoses that look skeptical. This will restore the vacuum for the booster to work properly.

    If that still does not help, then you can consider two options. The first being to change to a smaller master cylinder. The second is to upgrade the brake booster. Any of the 94-95s and 94+ V6 units will work. They are all larger than the stock 87-93 V8 unit, thus will give you more assist.
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 09-29-2013 at 08:59 PM. Reason: Additional pics

  11. #61
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    Default Next needing to disable the factory proportioning valve...

    The factory proportioning valve is not set up for bigger front and new rear disks which need different fluid transfer rates/pressures. It is not adjustable either. A couple of ways this can be corrected is by removing it or disabling it. The easiest way (and the way I chose too) is to get the Maximum Motorsport plug: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...oducts_id=1411
    I got mine locally so it was around $20 This looks exactly like an SAE or ORB type plug and I'm sure it could be sourced at a hose and fitting store too and be cheaper. Now if one just knew the sizes exactly...

    Back up the valve block or you could bend or break the mounts. My cartridge was in pretty tight! I usually put a little lube on O-rings before install as well. Make sure it is tight, but don't kill it!





    Yeah, pretty low skill level portion of the build here.
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 09-29-2013 at 08:55 PM.

  12. #62
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    Default ...and add a manual proportioning valve.

    There are a few different ones out there I think that will work but again, I chose what a lot recommended and used for their upgrades. It is made by Wilwood http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...temno=260-8419 This one came with two 1/8" NPT to 3/8"-24 flare adaptors. Looking on Wilwood's site, it looks like they do offer a direct 3/8-24 valve, but this is the one they had local: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=687

    Perfect location where there is a factory coupling for the rear brake line:



    I tweaked the lines a little so the valve was sitting a little more level and straight. Be careful not to over-tighten the NPT connections and use a back up wrench! Note the slightly tidied up wiring.


  13. #63
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    Default Finishing up on the brakes...or not?

    Soliciting my two boys on a few occasions, we bled the brakes. As recommended, starting at the furthest away (passenger rear) then the next furthest (driver rear), passenger front and then the drivers front. We did it numerous times making sure that we had good clean fluid coming through and no more air. It seemed ok that way but something wasn't right. I suspected a leak somewhere. I checked and snugged the new connections I had added or disturbed; I checked the bleed screws again; I checked the calipers and The passenger rear caliper had a leak on the shaft seal where the e-brake cable connects. Bummer. Ah well, my 90 day warranty had long expired from MPS.



    I didn't inspect them that closely when I got them but this piston looks like it was hit hard at one time. The rubber had a tear in it too.



    I pondered rebuilding it and then decided to buy a refurbished one. I believe it was a Cardone supplied one but it was the "Cobra" style Varga. It wasn't too pricey with the core charge. But, I had to clean, paint and bake it all over again!




    Every thing was reinstalled and seems to be in order now.
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 09-29-2013 at 09:37 PM.

  14. #64
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    Default More random stuff: Fog light switch.

    When I got this car, the switch for the fog lights was installed in the bottom hole on the left of the dash. It was tastefully installed with the indicator light inserted in a hole beside it. Sorry I have no good pictures of it. This one is right after I had removed it and replaced the dash bezel. I found out by seeing the factory switch I got that the light I had in the bezel was the same so whoever had relocated it had reused it.



    I had honestly never known what one of these looked like! I picked up a couple of these factory switches recently. One had the harnesses complete with it. I believe that this one is for later models. The plug was different as was the relay. Hmm. The wiring from the dash switch that I moved back down was missing one of the pins so I just did enough to make it functional. One thing to note; for some reason, I could not find the fog light switch and harness on the 1982 wiring diagrams: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...79-1986-in-PDF




    Cool. Everything is working

    Can someone tell me if the '82 GT had the black knob on the switch or the chrome one? Something tells me it is chrome.
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 09-30-2013 at 11:14 PM.

  15. #65
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    Default Even more random stuff: Deadman pedal

    These earlier cars never came with these. My son grabbed this off of an aero in the junkyard while I was grabbing something else. It cleaned up well!

    I had removed much of an earlier installed alarm system, but there are still remnants that need to be removed and repaired. A lot of this mess was from the remote door unlock:



    I got most of the wiring neatened up and tucked away. I had to drill two holes for the screws used to hold the pedal:




    Looking a little different. Fancy!


  16. #66
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    Default Can someone identify this wiring?

    This runs from the back up the drivers door sill to behind the under dash quarter panel but is not hooked up to anything from the front.



  17. #67
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    Default What to do next? Steering wheel!

    I got one of the three spoke sport wheels in really good shape out of that '79 Ghia in the spring. I like the original four spoke plastic cruise wheel too.



    Pretty easy removal. One nut, the cruise harness and then a puller to get it off.





    It is still solid but I had not noted the cracks this bad before:




    These wheels are pretty nice. One thing I did noticed after the first time sitting behind it. It sits out further and closer to me than the other. It may take getting used to:


  18. #68
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    Default Moving on...Carburator

    So as mentioned way at the beginning, I was having some carburator issues. It had a 600 CFM Carter AFB on it. I tried to run it once or twice a year but from the years of sitting and probably bad gas it did not start the last two years. The last time I had tried to start it, gas was pouring out on to the intake. When I had the work quoted at that shop last fall, they got it somewhat ungummed, stated the floats had been stuck but had gotten it running good. Rebuilding this carburator wasn't recommended and they had suggested a Quick Fuel 6-700 carb to replace it.

    I'll be honest that I do not understand too much about them and did not do any research. I decided on a 680 CFM. The HR-680-VS http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/c...arburetor.html I suppose it may be on the verge of being over sized, but I thought a little room for growth.

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    A co-worker gave me the inlet and the fuel rail fittings so all I needed was to run it back from the carb to the fuel pump. A place called Mopac Auto Supply http://www.mopacautosupply.com/ here has rows of different types of fittings and adaptors so it was just a matter of figuing out the routing. In the shop I work at we use a lot of reusable hydraulic JIC type fittings. These I bought are called -AN but appear the same 30* seat and they are a breeze to assemble.



    We are getting much closer to running now!

    I removed the stock metal fuel line. Too bad I had to destroy it to get it out from where it wound through the front accessories. The pedal linkage and bracket needed minor adjustments to get it to work. The previous attachment point was taken off the Carter and reused as well as the air cleaner retainer threaded rod.

    The coil location kind of stunk on the intake and limited the way I could route the new hose. I ended up running around the carb, along the intake and then down to the fuel pump.





    Hooked up the vacuum advance as per the instructions and the vacuum to the booster:


  19. #69
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    Default Rear end gear oil

    With the car back on the axle stands, it was a good opportunity to fill the diff with fluid. There were a few brands and weights out there recommended but I chose the Royal Purple 75W-90. This one comes with the friction modifier additive mixed in.


  20. #70
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    Default Random stuff: Strut tower brace

    I missed posting this one a while ago before the carb swap.

    I like a lot of the ideas that go around this site. This one intrigued me just like the hood struts: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ower-Bar-Brace You guys have the coolest stuff!

    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=592

    I think they are reasonably priced and I got mine through The Mustang Shop again. It bolts through the pinch weld on the firewall and you drill holes into the strut tower. I have heard there can be a small conflict between these and the factory strut mount plate. Caster/camber plates? No problem. I took the MM label off.

    It looks pretty good!



  21. #71
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    Default

    Congrats your car is moving along real nice

  22. #72
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    Default Contact!

    So with everything else ready to go, I filled up the remaining fluids. Power steering fluid and water for the cooling system. Not having checked my previous front cover work, plus all of the hoses being off, I wasn't going to chance a fount of antifreeze all over the place. I also wanted to rinse out some of the Dex-cool that had been sitting in there for years. My plan is to put Prestone in after. I added some fresh premium fuel and some Sea-Foam. I had charged the battery and hooked it up.

    This was the moment! I pushed the clutch in, pumped the gas twice and turned the key. After literally 5-10 seconds of cranking she came to life! A little rough but choking and then kicking down to a roughish idle. I was monitoring under the hood while it warmed up and I fixed one small fuel leak near the carb. I fiddled with and set the floats as per the Quick Fuel instructions. Set the idle too. Not too bad for barely a handful of hours running in eleven years!

    Awhile after reaching temperature, while up on the jacks, I put the tranny in first at let the clutch out slowly while at idle. Power transferred to the rear axle as it should which allowed me to breathe a silent sigh.

    Then I noticed a little dripping at the front I shut it off and see that is actually the thermostat housing that is leaking, not the front cover or anything that would really suck!

  23. #73
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    Default Darned T-Stat!

    I was hoping it wasn`t the front cover that I had done a few months before leaking and I lucked out as it was the t-stat to the intake manifold seal instead. I drained the water-rinse out, cleaned up the surfaces, replaced the gasket, filled with fresh distilled water, and tried it again. The same thing I lightly filed the mating surface of the housing the second time just in case it was warped a touch, plus it was slightly pitted. Same result

    Boy does that DexCool really stain everthing!



    That was a little frustrating. But hey, getting good at changing it now I looked at the Ford Racing housing for a replacement, but WOW, expensive for what you get. $55 even at American Muscle: http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-t...sing-7995.html

    I was quoted something like $70ish locally up here. I ended up buying an aftermarket housing for $20. It even had the 1/2" tapping in it for future too, so that's ok. Ran it up to temperature again and this time, first time, no leaks


  24. #74
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    Default Plugs and wires

    The yellow Accel plug wires I had were in pretty good shape still. It was running decently with those and the vee type platinum plugs that were in it from years ago. I still decided it was time to change. After reading a little on the site about plugs, I decided to go with the copper electrode ones for a '93 Cobra.



    Gapped around ~0.044"



    I also got a set of 9mm Ford Racing spark plug wires. I thought the red would look good:



    And they do!



    I had pulled all of the wires off at once and followed the Haynes manual for the firing order of 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 for re-install. Not quite right (and you could tell by the mis-fires). The Haynes didn't specify the HO/351W firing order of 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 which mine is. Idles MUCH better like this
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 10-20-2013 at 06:19 PM.

  25. #75
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    Red face First Steps

    With everything engine related "working" and still up on the stands, I tried first gear at idle and let the clutch out slowly We had smooth rotation of the gears and axle! I tried reverse briefly and then second Second sounded different but not too bad I verified the brakes and e-brake were working as well. I then loosely bolted the tie-rods to the spindles, put the wheels back on, left everything loose on the suspension and dropped it off the stands.

    It was a proud moment with my son there when I slowly moved it back out of the garage onto the driveway under it's own power! I went back and forth a few times to make sure nothing sounded majorly out of place. All seemed good!

    After months sitting dirty, I took the time to wash it and the engine compartment. I'm pretty happy



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