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  1. #26
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    Default 07-01-2013 Front Brake Flex Lines

    I removed, blasted and painted the front hard line to flex line brackets and purchased the Maximum Motorsports MMBK8F front flex lines.

    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...oducts_id=1341

    They were almost hard to get. I ordered them through The Mustang Shop again and they went on back order right after I ordered mine A slight modification to oversize the hole on the bracket to accommodate the end and done. The products they sell are fantastic! This saves a lot of headaches trying to figure out sizes, adaptors etc. You just need to watch for tire rub and adjust them accordingly.


  2. #27
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    Default 07-01-2013 Rim Center Caps

    Of course I am very detail orientated and pay attention to really small things sometimes The center caps that came with the rims were nicely done but... I ended up just missing out on this forum for a set of later center caps (the red/white/blue with the running horse). This got me thinking and I searched and spotted some later NOS caps on eBay that dimensionally should work. Well, even though on paper they should work (kind of like rims I guess) the OD was slightly too big so taking around a 1/16" off all the way around with a pedestal grinder allowed them to slide right in.

    I think they look awesome and go with everything perfectly (seeing as the 82 has the black hood emblem)!

    From this:



    To this:



    Awesome!!

  3. #28
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    Default 07-01-2013 Tire Clearance Problems?

    Of course when I first put the rims on I totally though I was going to have some tire clearance issues. It is not uncommon to have rubbing on the k-member with wider tires it seems.



    I thought I was hooped and was going to have to use rack limiters or put in some wheel spacers This pic is before the tie-rod was done up to the spindle and the wheel had the full range of motion. After bolting up the tie-rod all is good with no problems

  4. #29
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    Default 07-01-2013 Front End (Mainly) Done!!

    This completes the major work on the front end

    I'm saving the torqueing on the control arms and tie-rod ends as well as the alignment stuff for later.

    Now on to the rear end. Funny this was the part that needed replacement when this project got going!

    Yes, I am still behind posting updates.

  5. #30
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    Default 07-07-2013 Random Stuff...

    A while back I had found a 79 Ghia in the junkyard that still had the hood insulation that looked pretty good. I decided to try it out. It was a non-hood scoop car but...

    It ended up being dirtier and dustier than I had expected and lightly beating it out of it before putting it in got a lot of the dust/dirt out but also weakened the insulation.




    I have since removed it and the search continues

  6. #31
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    Default Random Stuff

    My son needed a random image for a grade 10 art project (painting) this past school year. He used the one in the previous post of the 79 Ghia that we grabbed a bunch of salvageable parts from. We had a fun day at the junkyard that day! I posted a thread about it and for others to post any fox art so post some if you got some. Not many yet but...
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...rt-inspiration!



    Good job son!!

  7. #32
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    Default 07-07-2013 Ooooh, Hood Struts!

    CHecking around this site gives a ton of info, insight and great ideas!
    I followed this thread: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...71#post1573871 for a while and decided to go for it too!

    It is the MRT (80C000-BLK) no-drill ones: http://www.mrt-direct.com/80c000blk.html

    I love these things (even though I haven't removed the prop-rod yet)!!

    I had one bolt where I had difficulty getting it threaded back in the drivers quarter panel and of course these wouldn't work properly like that. Some cursing and perseverance and I managed to get it to go. I removed the decals too.


    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    I think this is my favorite car on the site right now.
    Quote Originally Posted by BLUECRAPI
    This is the best thread on the internet.
    Darran
    1982-1C (Black) GT T-Top:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
    1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
    1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
    1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...um-Blue-Bomber!

  8. #33
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    Default 07-18-2013 Pulling out the Rear Axle

    I had never removed a complete rear axle before but with a few good threads on this site I found some basic instructions and order in which to disconnect and remove items. Ensure the car and axle are supported properly before you begin!

    Before removal. It was the traction loc that failed and had this car sit for as long as it did:


    It was a real PIA to get the prongs squeezed and get the e-brake cable out of the drums:


    Bye-Bye Drums


    The sway bar came off first:



    Driveshaft to axle flange bolts. I hung it with some tie-wire to the exhaust:


    Rear shocks and axle side of LCA's:


    Axle side of UCA's:


    A few small things like the brake flex line and carefully dropped it down and out:





    I had to disconnect the exhaust brackets and push the mufflers aside to access the body side upper and lower arm bolts on one side. Not so bad I suppose.

    This ended up being easier than I thought it would be. None of the fasteners were rusted on so bad that I needed to torch or grind any off

  9. #34
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    Default 07-25-2013 The New 8.8

    Back when I started this journey, the shop I originally got to quote me to do the work could not find me an 8.8 to rebuild . They were looking elsewhere out of the city and found one that had 2.73 gears in it and would need a new carrier etc. to do all of this. I ended up searching myself and decided to buy a complete axle with 3.73's Ford Racing gear set, 11.65" cobra rear discs and shorter Moser 28 spline axles for the factory fox track width (59.5"). This was through MPS Auto Salvage in Georgia. It was cheaper to buy this rebuilt unit (although I am not 100% what year it was donated from), have it shipped to the border at Sweetgrass, Montana and take a three hour drive on a day off to pick it up duty and fee free. Ok, I had to pay GST. I actually had the 2003 Mach 1 front stuff shipped at the same time-cheap

    I can't believe it would have cost a lot more to have it built locally!



    I have the calipers off in this picture.

  10. #35
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    Default 07-25-2013 The Rear Calipers

    The calipers were already blasted so I dismantled, cleaned, painted and cured them as well. I hope it lasts a while!




  11. #36
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    Default 07-25-2013 Axle Side UCA Bushings

    This axle came with new poly bushings installed. After reading countless threads and articles...and reading a lot of opinions; I decided I would go with rubber bushings at both ends of the UCA's. With fresh knowledge in hand I purchased the Maximum Motorsports bushing removal tool to do the axle. Hands down a good investment
    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=190

    Based on information I had read, the closest to the factory rubber ones were the Moog replacements so I used them. This is one way to minimize bind and reduce wheel hop from what I have read.
    http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...rod=MOOG-K8637




  12. #37
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    Default 07-25-2013 Body Side UCA Bushings

    With the body side bushings UCA bushings, I used a similar approach to what I did for the FCA's bushing swap. They weren't in bad shape but one had some slight cracking around the sleeve so I thought I might as well change them- they came in the Moog kit in th epost before.

    I drilled around the sleeve to get it out, removed the rubber and got the shell out like the fronts.


    It was a little trickier getting these in compared to the front due to them not being as rigid as the front arms. I had to get creative to keep the stress even and the arm in shape


    NOTE: Seeing as the Ford Racing M-5500-A are obsolete and MM are expensive, I got the UCA as freebies with the order from MPS. They came from a newer car (SN95 I think) due to the stamps on them but to my eye they were identical to the ones that came off my car

  13. #38
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    Default Body to Axle Brake Line Direction

    Being a newer rear end it was rebuilt to that "spec". Meaning the axle hard lines were set up for a newer (SN95) application. The divider block (tee) and the flex line were on the driver's side of the pumpkin compared to the passenger axle on the original '82 for one thing.

    I followed a thread (http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ake-line-mount ) for a while about replacing/relocating/advancing the body line to the other side. I figured the only way was to advance this to the other side with the newer bracket and adaptor.

    The bracket and the fitting for the rear body line of the '82 was on the passenger side:


    Where it is on newer (factory dual cars IIRC):


    The supplied flex off the axle had a banjo fitting:


    Compared to the SAE Inverted Flare hose off the '82 7.5":


    I read a lot of stuff about this topic. I was trying to figure out which way to do this modification when I remembered reading something....

    And the light went on
    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    I think this is my favorite car on the site right now.
    Quote Originally Posted by BLUECRAPI
    This is the best thread on the internet.
    Darran
    1982-1C (Black) GT T-Top:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
    1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
    1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
    1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...um-Blue-Bomber!

  14. #39
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    Default Rear Axle Brake Lines

    I recalled reading a couple of times about using the old axle hard lines. All you have to do was shorten the lines and adapt them to the newer flex lines.

    These adaptor fittings are available from Maximum Motorsports Part# MMBAK-18 http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...oducts_id=1378

    Holy Smokes! $25 for two little things like that! It's only a 7/16"-20 to 3/8"-20 flared fitting! They know how to soak you. I actually put some on order locally. Previously while thinking about switching the body line to the other side, I had discussed flaring brake lines with some co-workers. One was going to lend me his Mac Tool flaring kit except the 3/16" insert was broken. He arranged to get a warranty replacement. I cancelled my order for the MM adaptors.

    I installed the tee fitting/vent in the location that just the vent came on this rear. It is the same as 7.5 factory location and the same size Due to the location of the flex fitting the line is too long to fit without taking up the slack.



    The route over the pumpkin needed a little tweaking too. I modified the bracket that came with the new axle to grab the line. Excellent! I cut the 7/16" fittings off the axle lines supplied to replace the 3/8". Now to wait for the flare kit.

    Last edited by 82GTforME; 08-23-2013 at 08:03 PM.

  15. #40
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    Default

    My friend got the runaround for well over a week from the Mac rep. I got impatient. I took the lines to a chain brake shop and left them for the afternoon. $20 cash to flare two ends. I picked it up and took them home to try. All I can say is wow. I didn't look at them until I got home but they were bad One end was off centered, the other didn't even look double flared! It actually was split around the rim! Frustrating. Another couple of days later the adaptor came and I got the flare kit to use Unbelievable these people work in the trade. I wonder how many people get a crappy job at these places?

  16. #41
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    Post How to Flare a Brake Line

    The kit I borrowed was a really good one but from what I heard any basic one should work too. I had never done this before but I had all of the lines I took off the new axle to practice with. I must have done a dozen before I got consistent good results. It was quite easy once you get the hang of it. My son watched and tried a few and did good!(I prepped them for him)

    Of course it was a little more challenging doing the actual lines due to the close bends but we got it done correctly! Here's how:


    A BEGINNER STEP BY STEP HOW TO FLARE A BRAKE LINE

    End preparation is quite critical to ensure the integrity of the seal. Brake line can be cut with a hacksaw if held securely in a vise or something but I used a metal tubing wheel cutter. Using this type makes a ridge on the inside. This kit came with a good reamer but either way you cut it, the ID must be reamed completely to remove the ridge and be round. If not it will effect the final outcome. Another important note about end prep is making sure it is square. If not, it can effect the flare as well. I used a fine file to do it.

    1. I fixed the flare block in a vise. This one will do imperial and metric, but this line is 3/16". The adaptor is used to set where the end of the line needs to be. Tighten the bolts on the block to prevent the tube from moving. It is important to have it VERY tight. The force you put on it doing the flare will make it slide and wreck the joint.



    2. The adaptor is flipped over and inserted into the line. If it is not reamed correctly it wont go in. Using the press, the insert is pressed in until it makes contact with the block. Do not go too tight, you can damage the insert.



    3. Release the press and remove the insert. It can stick. I just tapped and rotated it and it came out. This is the inverted part of the double flare.



    4. The cone head slides onto the press and is set on the end. Make sure that it looks centered and looks set straight before starting.



    5. The cone is then pressed into the end. It is tempting but do not over tighten it, it can cause the outer portion of the flare to crack as it is over-squished.



    6. Remove the cone and press.



    7. Then loosen the block off and slide the line out.



    The inside surface that holds the brake line is serrated. It caused some marring of the outer surface. I used a fine file again to smooth it out.

    8. Enjoy your handy work!



    A note before starting: Put the fitting on the line BEFORE before flaring! Otherwise this was a practice one!

    Time to complete once good at it? Minutes each!
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 09-12-2013 at 11:48 PM. Reason: Added title

  17. #42
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    Default Rear Axle Brake Line Finish

    I taped the ends and gave these a bead blast and then some chassis paint (along with some other stuff).



    Installation soon!

  18. #43
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    Default Rear Upper Control Arms

    I had read about the now obsolete M-5500-A UCA's through Ford Racing: http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=1034

    Maximum Motorsports carries an exact looking replacement (just a little pricey though): http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...5646ed0f18a3b5

    I got a newer OEM set thrown in the deal when I got my rear end and front brakes from MPS. Dimensionally, they are exactly like the ones that came off the '82's rear. They also look exactly like the Ford Racing or MM ones so is there really a big difference? Not sure. These new ones had the factory rubber bushings in them. They looked okay, but I thought I would replace them anyways (An ounce of prevention...)

    Many threads have been read about rubber versus polyurethane. Both one, both the other. Rubber at one end poly at the other etc. What I got out of it all was due to the design of the fox rear suspension is it can bind causing issues with handling, traction, wheel hop etc. It is important not to have it too stiff with poly bushings. "Compliant" rubber bushings need to be used. Therefore my choice was to use replacement rubber bushings for both the axle side and the body side. The closest option I had found was a Moog product: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...rod=MOOG-K8637 These came as a set for one side, so you need two sets. As well, they come as one: shells, rubber and sleeves.

    I took the same approach as I used for the front control arm bushings to remove the old shells:




    I had to get a little more creative pushing the new shells in. The arms really wanted to distort.


  19. #44
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    Default UCA Axle Bushings

    The axle I purchased came with new poly bushings that I decided I didn't want. A pain to remove by the looks right?



    I had heard that Maximum Motorsports sells a tool to make it easy to remove and replace these; even while the axle is in the car! It is the MMT-1: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=190

    I purchased one as there was no other way for me to do it! Follow the instructions and easily done! Make sure you use extra washers if you need to. Putting the new in, I tightened the nut to the end of the bolt threads and galled it and had to work to get it back off. I had to then use a replacement bolt for the second.

    Removal:


    Install:


    Finished:

  20. #45
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    Default Rear Lower Control Arms

    I decided to upgrade these from the stock ones. For my driving style, I decided on the Maximum Motorsport Heavy Duty Adjustable ones: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=523

    Note these ones have spherical bushings at the axle end and a "specially designed 3-piece urethane bushings at the chassis end". This gives a little flex. I think the only different between these and the Extreme Duty ones http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=537 is they have a spherical bushings at both ends. Oh, and they cost $80 more too. I think if you are not drag racing regularly, the HD are the ones to use. I liked the adjustable feature too!



    Put lots of grease on the bushings and sleeve!

  21. #46
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    Default Rear Shock Problem

    I am going to use the old Koni's Red drag shocks I purchased years ago because they are still in great shape! As I am getting everything ready for installing the rear end, I noticed something. Something that caused a small hiccup.

    The 7.5 rear shock mount was this:



    My new rear end had the newer, different mount style:



    These are metric bolts required and the ones for the initial set up are like this:




    I couldn't find the right type of bolt and nut for these. There was also the fact that the eye of the shock was too narrow to fill the gap. The '82 set up did not have a sleeve in the rubber either. I tried the dealership for the bolt/sleeve etc. and they were no help. No one could help.

    These shocks to buy must have came with both mounting options as they are specified for 79-93 but I didn't have the others I was starting to think of new shocks as an option

  22. #47
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    Default Shock Therapy- Problem Cured

    I got lucky on a trip to the junkyard. I found a '95 car that had an 8.8 with the factory shocks and bolts still intact. I couldn't get the sleeves out of the bushings though with the tools I had. I ended up having to pay $30 for the pair of shocks. Pick and Pull is such a rip!

    I drilled out the rubber at home and drove the sleeves out of them. I used a vise to try pressing them into the Koni's. I wasn't sure what to expect but with some lube it worked




    Now we're cooking!

    I even took the shocks back and got a store credit because the shocks "didn't work"

  23. #48
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    Default Rear Bolting

    As easily as the old bolts actually came out of the control arms, most were corroded to the point of being slightly porous.



    I could not find a supplier that could get the metric, flanged bolts and nuts in these lengths. One place could get one length ordered in...by the BOX!

    Rear Upper & Lower Control Arms:
    4 needed..... Hex head, metric - Grade 10.9 steel, M12 bolt size, 90mm length, coarse thread
    4 needed..... Hex head, metric - Grade 10.9 steel, M12 bolt size, 110mm length, coarse thread
    8 needed..... Nylon-Insert Locknut, metric - Grade 10.9 steel, M12 bolt size, coarse thread
    8 needed..... Regular washer - Grade 10.9 steel, M12 bolt size (use this against bolt heads)
    8 needed..... Lock washer - Grade 10.9 steel, M12 bolt size (use this against nuts)
    *Source: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...-sizes.752263/



    I ended up getting a UPR set. Ouch! $30: http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-g...lt-kit-79.html Not flanged so I used washers.
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 09-20-2013 at 11:34 PM.

  24. #49
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    Default Rear Axle In!

    Here we are. Just need to loosely bolt up the uppers to it and then all ready to go!



    Lowers bolted in:



    I used the trolley jack to lift it gently up into place and put in the bolts for the shocks and the driveshaft:




    Next the springs and the axle end of the lowers. It made it easier with the adjustment of the LCAs. Lowering them all the way made life a little easier. Note the bracket for the quad shock that the '82 never had:



    Lastly was to do the UCA at the body side. I had to disconnect the exhaust hangers and hold the exhaust away to access one side of the bolts:



    Note: I left everything loose except for the shocks.

    This part all went pretty smoothly for someone who had never done this swap before!
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 09-20-2013 at 11:45 PM.

  25. #50
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    Default Rear Sway Bar

    Bead blasted the fasteners, then buffed as well as degreased the rear sway bar before paint and then attached it with the holes provided on the MM lowers.



    Does the bar sit lower than it should? Maybe it's just because the suspension is hanging.

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