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  1. #151
    Mike1157
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    I see this all the time, and am always a little amused at how it brings a lot of guys to a stand still when they discover the width difference. I always use like 1.250 wide flat bar stock that is half of whatever width differential there is ( since there will be one on each side of the spindle mount) between the strut, and the strut mounting surface on the spindle. Even in your comparison pics, that's all Koni did in effect anyway.

  2. #152
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Looks good! And I went the non adjustable route with mine also ( tokiko instead of koni) as like you, I don't see the need for a car that doesn't see any track time.


    Sent from Mos Eisley using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  3. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by bridgener View Post
    Looks good! What strut boots are you using in that last picture? Are you running aftermarket cc plates? Mine are all torn up and I'm using QA1 plates, not sure what will fit my car.
    I am using the Maximum Motorsport CC plates on this car. I did not like the strut boots that came with them so I purchased these Monroe ones from Auto Value. I did use the MM supplied bump stops though.

    http://www.monroe.com/en-US/products...ate-Boot-Kits/



    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    Your old ones are adjustable right? Does that mean you have to make some clearance holes in the hood structure of the tangerine car?
    They are adjustable Travis but they are the compress, lock and turn type, not the D-ring top adjustable like the SVO Koni's. I never had any issues on this car so I am not expecting any on the Tangerine car. Thanks for putting a little fear in me now though!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1157 View Post
    I see this all the time, and am always a little amused at how it brings a lot of guys to a stand still when they discover the width difference. I always use like 1.250 wide flat bar stock that is half of whatever width differential there is ( since there will be one on each side of the spindle mount) between the strut, and the strut mounting surface on the spindle. Even in your comparison pics, that's all Koni did in effect anyway.
    Easy to put the early struts onto the later spindle ears but as I found out looking for struts for the orange car; you cannot get the later ones and put them on the early spindles. Like I said I think the extra little plate Koni put on there could be easily removed but I decided not to.

    You being a welder/fabricator must have you with a good selection of steel laying around. Flat bar would be ideal with holes drilled in them but the four hardened washers work pretty easily also.

    Quote Originally Posted by magnum517 View Post
    Looks good! And I went the non adjustable route with mine also ( tokiko instead of koni) as like you, I don't see the need for a car that doesn't see any track time.
    Yeah the cost difference to upgrade to the Koni Yellows just wasn't justifiable for me. I've heard decent review for these ones and for as little I seem to drive this car anymore I couldn't do it. Besides, the older adjustable ones were never adjusted once since they were bought and installed many years ago!

  4. #154
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    I never realized Koni made some that were adjustable but not like the SVOs. I just remember reading up on that one time.

    Just don't slam the hood down the first time you close it after installing them and you'll be fine.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  5. #155

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    Here's a little tip for ya. I've made the older style struts fit the newer (thinner) spindles by cutting the "ears" off of an old strut and using those pieces as shims. The thickness is perfect and the holes are already drilled and in the correct location.
    80 Fairmont Futura 2.3 4spd (soon to be 2.3T 5spd)
    86 Turbo Coupe 2.3T 5spd
    89 Mustang 2.3T 5spd (WRL Racer)


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  6. #156
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bungy View Post
    Here's a little tip for ya. I've made the older style struts fit the newer (thinner) spindles by cutting the "ears" off of an old strut and using those pieces as shims. The thickness is perfect and the holes are already drilled and in the correct location.

    I have those same shims on my car right now. Amazing how well that works.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  7. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bungy View Post
    Here's a little tip for ya. I've made the older style struts fit the newer (thinner) spindles by cutting the "ears" off of an old strut and using those pieces as shims. The thickness is perfect and the holes are already drilled and in the correct location.
    That's a good idea. When I came across the issue way back for the first time, the washer trick was the first one that was suggested. Worked fine, but using the ears off scrap struts would work just as well. Thanks!

    I got the remaining three on tonight but have not taken the car out yet as I'm fiddling around with another small issue.



    Note the difference in the thread and the machined part of the shafts. Good thing I had some leftover spacers from the CC plate kit. (new ones on the left)



    I didn't really know what I had put on the car so many years ago. "Give me some good ones" type of a conversation I'm sure 20+ years ago...turns out they are SPA1 drag shocks and struts.



  8. #158
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    Default Advice for a "stuck" dizzy?

    So as you maybe know, the car hasn't really been running too great. Thought it may be a timing thing. I had picked up a NOS distributor cap a while ago and I am going to locate a rotor and I think I need to upgrade my timing gun also.

    Getting prepared for a tune up I started doing some prep but I ran into a little problem tonight. I loosened off and removed the hold down bolt for the dizzy and do you think I can get it to turn? Not a chance! It is in there really solid! Any ideas on how to unsieze it? I have tried giving it some gentle taps with the persuader by nothing. I may start another thread if this isn't the right spot to ask.


  9. #159

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    I think an open ended wrench will work on leveraging the dizzy housing - where it has the flat sides, but it looks like you'd need to pull the intake manifold...
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.

  10. #160
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    A good penetrating oil would be the best option to loosen up the distributor before you state prying against it IMHO.

    A homemade remedy is isopropyl alcohol mixed with automatic transmission fluid. Just be careful as it is highly flammable, but it works really well.

    After that a couple of well placed pry bars/long screwdrivers and prying up from two sides at the same time should do the trick. A 2 jaw puller and an axle bearing puller would do the trick too if the pry bars don't.

    Good Luck!

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  11. #161

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    soak it really really good in WD40. let it sit for a day. them bump it and pry on it. it should come out.
    now if you had some liquid nitrogen. you just poor that on top of the distributor as you torch the block. it'll pop right out. just kidding.
    I'm Kris, AKA, Snow Wolf
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  12. #162
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    I picked up some Sea Foam "Deep Creep" and applied that a couple of times last night. It hasn't sat a day yet but still no movement

    My goal wasn't to remove the distributor entirely just to get it to move to change the timing. Judging by how much of a pain this is becoming, it may have to completely come out. It's something I've never done before (what else is new). We'll see what happens after sitting all day today while I'm at work.

    I may decide to remove either the AC compressor and bracket, upper rad hose and thermostat housing or all of these to get better access to it. This part may have to wait another couple of weeks though. Our annual company BBQ is on July 9th and we have a small show and shine for anything anybody wants to bring to it and my plan was to bring the '82 because I brought the SVO last year. The car runs as is so if I tear a bunch of stuff out, it may not get back together if things don't "work out".

    Thanks for all of the tips

  13. #163
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    If you don't get it to come free and end up pulling the distributor, pull the coil wire and #1 plug. Place your thumb over the spark plug hole and have someone bump the ignition switch to get the engine to turn a little bit at a time.

    Once the compression blows your finger off the spark plug hole, look for your timing marks. they should be a little past the timing pointer. Placing a socket on the crank damper bolt turn the engine until the timing pointer is at TDC.

    Pull the distributor cap. The rotor should be pointing at the #1 position on your cap. If so... it is safe to remove the distributor. You will probably find some corrosion between the distributor body and the block. Clean it all up, replace the o-ring, apply some oil to the o-ring and re-install your distributor.

    You may find that the oil pump shaft has turned during the removal process and no longer lines up with the distributor. Rock the engine back and forth a bit with the socket wrench and the distributor should drop in. Once the distributor is in place, reset the timing marks to about 10 degrees.

    Reinstall the distributor cap, spark plug and coil wire. Your car should now start and be ready to be timed.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1981 Black Magic 400 c6
    93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

  14. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by mustangxtreme View Post
    If you don't get it to come free and end up pulling the distributor, pull the coil wire and #1 plug. Place your thumb over the spark plug hole and have someone bump the ignition switch to get the engine to turn a little bit at a time.

    Once the compression blows your finger off the spark plug hole, look for your timing marks. they should be a little past the timing pointer. Placing a socket on the crank damper bolt turn the engine until the timing pointer is at TDC.

    Pull the distributor cap. The rotor should be pointing at the #1 position on your cap. If so... it is safe to remove the distributor. You will probably find some corrosion between the distributor body and the block. Clean it all up, replace the o-ring, apply some oil to the o-ring and re-install your distributor.

    You may find that the oil pump shaft has turned during the removal process and no longer lines up with the distributor. Rock the engine back and forth a bit with the socket wrench and the distributor should drop in. Once the distributor is in place, reset the timing marks to about 10 degrees.

    Reinstall the distributor cap, spark plug and coil wire. Your car should now start and be ready to be timed.
    Thanks for all of that info!

    So after removing the AC compressor and bracket to get better access plus letting the Deep Creep and WD-40 soak in the distributor is moving! Once I could get the proper wrench and get a little leverage, it moved. After moving it, spraying more and moving it some more it moves almost effortlessly now. I know it will pop out easily but my question now is; do I really need to go to that trouble? I'm leaning to not at this point.

    Thoughts on that?

  15. #165
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    If all you want to do is reset the timing, then there really should not be any reason to pull it out. If though you want to really clean it up and detail it, or if you think there may be wear issues with the distributor, then pulling it is the way to go. Have a look at the advance mechanisms in to see if they show signs of wear or seizing. If they are worn, the mechanical advance can be erratic, seized is an obvious issue. Also check the vacuum advance pot to be sure the diaphram is good and will hold vacuum. If you don't see any problems with those, leave it in.

  16. #166

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    You're probably fine leaving it in. You might make a note to loosen it up and rotate it and reset the timing every few years.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.

  17. #167
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    I wouldn't take it out unless I had to. BMW Rider's suggestion to check the advance mechanisms is a good one.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1981 Black Magic 400 c6
    93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

  18. #168
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    Good advice all. I'm not looking to open a can of worms by pulling it. I'm going to be shopping around for a new timing light to help with the final timing set up.

    Is there somewhere I can look to enlighten me on checking the advance mechanisms etc.? I'll be capable but need some up front info to read to get me on the right track!

  19. #169
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Set the timing with your vacuum advance disconnected.

    You can check your advance by hooking the vacuum line back up and then having someone speed up the engine to 2000-2500 RPM and check your timing at that point.

    I don't remember the exact numbers off my head, but your initial timing is usually 8-10 degrees and your total should be @32-36 degrees.

    I highly recommend a dial back or adjustable knob timing light so you can accurately check your timing both initial and advance. I still use an old Craftsman model that is probably 30 years old, but still does the job. There are plenty of new digital units out there that work really well too depending on your budget.

    Good Luck!

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  20. #170
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    If you need a hand, pop over one day next week and I can have a look at it with you. I have a good SnapOn Digital advance timing light.

  21. #171
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    Thanks for the offer Ed! The rotor I was waiting for took two days to get to the Ford dealer

    I am going to get going on this today. I'll give it a whirl with my old gun and see what happens.


  22. #172
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    Default Recaro's in!

    So, while waiting for the penetrating oil to soak in to loosen up the distributor the other day I was looking for something to do. I grabbed the Recaros I had stored at a different location gave them a good shampooing, let them dry and then got to work.

    While I had the seats out I took a look as best as I could behind the rear quarter panels and under the carpet for the build sheet but no luck this time. One day if the interior needs to come out, I will look better.

    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    I am lucky they were in as good of shape as they are! The black in the fabric makes my carpet look more dull and faded.

    I had to swap the carpet over and needed to make a small improvisation to get it to work but it did.




    I think I like the feel of the seats. My wife tried the passenger side and didn't like the higher side bolster as it made getting out a little harder. I guess she'll have to get used to it for a bit


  23. #173
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Those Recaros are in Great Shape! Congrats!

    They look great in the car too!

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  24. #174
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    Looking great.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1981 Black Magic 400 c6
    93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

  25. #175
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    Big improvement over those uncomfortable low back seats, nice.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

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