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  1. #1

    Default Driveshaft ! Which one?

    I did the search. I'm going v6 & c5 to v8 & tremec 5 speed. Assuming tremec is same length as t5, wagon drive shaft is too long? And mustang drive shaft is too short? Oh! Sorry, it's a 1985 ltd wagon that I'm working on. I did read about the explorer 2wd, but I'm on a budget, and just trying to throw this thing together and then build upon it.

  2. #2

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    I'm using a driveshaft out of a Fairmont C4/7.5 combo in my Zeph with T-5 and 8.8. LTD is the same wheelbase, so that should work in yours too.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  3. #3

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    If your Tremec isn't a TKO the stock driveshaft should swap right in. A TKO uses a C-6 yoke.
    The Fleet:

    '79 Fairmont Boxtop: The turbo-box
    '79 Fairmont Boxtop: The wife's car. 200/auto, factory sunroof.
    2010 Chevy Silverado: The DD/Tow rig.

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member roadkill's Avatar
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    What ZephyrEFI said. V8/C4 shaft fits perfectly.

  5. #5

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    Thanks all! Looks like I'll be spending some time at the yard. I know it's in another thread somewhere, but what is the length I'm looking for? Exact number.

  6. #6

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    I measured an explorer driveshaft at work last night and it was 51" c-c. Today I measured the wagon driveshaft at 51 1/2" c-c. Now I'm thinking the wagon driveshaft will work unless there's a big difference in yokes which changes length from flange to flange. I'll measure from flange to flange tonight and report back.

  7. #7

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    Forgive me if I'm reading this wrong, but there seems to be some concern that this being a wagon makes
    a difference. It doesn't. There's no difference between the driveshafts for sedan or wagon. All versions of
    Fairmont/Futura/Zephyr/Z7 and Fox LTD have the same wheelbase.

    Fairmont 302/C4 shaft is 51.25" C-C.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  8. #8

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    I know there's no difference, I just reference it because it is what I'm working on. Sorry about the confusion. I put up the wagon driveshaft just for ****s and giggles and the flange is about 3/8" away from the transmission. I can see the trans seal through the gap. That extra 1/4" is needed I guess? I'll try to take pics.

  9. #9

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    OK, first, you need to measure the slip yoke clearance with the weight of the car on the rear suspension.

    You need enough clearance so that as the rear suspension compresses, the driveshaft is able to get "shorter"
    by sliding the yoke further into the transmission. The overall operating range is usually in the neighborhood
    of ~3/4".

    If you have ~3/8" gap with the car on it's rear suspension, and your rear seal is the type with the extra ~1"
    dust boot over the actual seal area, you should be in good shape. If your rear seal is basically flat and you've
    only got 3/8", I would compress the rear suspension against the stops and check again.

    You do not want the yoke to ever bottom out against the seal, and you especially don't want it to bottom out
    against the end of the mainshaft either.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  10. #10

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    I took pics, just haven't had a chance to put them up yet. The rear is sitting a little low because of the mustang springs and the gap is 3/8 between flange of yoke and transmission tail. The seal extends beyond trans about 1/4 inch and is visible in the gap. If everything were solid bushings and torque boxes and frames didn't flex, then I might get away with it. But it looks like I'm gonna have to find a driveshaft or get this one cut down.

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member
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    Default

    If I remember correctly I used a driveshaft out of an 85 Cougar 302/AOD in my 83 LTD Wagon with a 302/408 and a C4. Just another option for you.

  12. #12

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    Not sure if they changed the diameter of the driveshaft from 1979 to the end of production, but when I swapped the SROD for the C4 and had to get mine shortened the drive shaft shop recommended going to a larger diameter. Seems the stock 1979 Fairmont shaft was kind of marginal at its length and diameter for speeds above regular freeway driving.

    Just something to consider if you do need a different shaft. (luckily for me the guy just found another Ford shaft that was bigger from his huge pile of cores and made it the right length for me, didn't charge me any more to do it)

  13. #13

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    This is a 2wd ford explorer. Disregard what it looks like and the fact that it is right hand drive.
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  14. #14

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    This is how long the driveshaft is.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  15. #15

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    Btw, Here is the gap I was referring to.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  16. #16

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    I'm looking at purchasing another rear right now, but I m still gonna need a new driveshaft. I think I'm going to go with the explorer 2wd driveshaft. Just gotta track one down.

  17. #17
    FEP Member slpr50ltd's Avatar
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    Yeah, the yoke is way too close in the photo you provided. On my '85 LTD Squire conversion with a '90 Mustang 5.0 and FRPP "Z" T-5, I used an '85 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe automatic shaft. It fit nearly perfectly. I have one of the seals with the boot on it and have about 1/4" between yoke and boot. The car has been together for four years and has had approximately 20K added to the odometer with no issues.
    Brien "Pobs"

    1981 Durango #35
    1979 Mercury Zephyr Z-7 - Orig V8 car (will be converted to 5.0 EFI and 5-spd!) - FOR SALE!
    1978 Mercury Zephyr Z-7 - Durango clone using original Durango components - FOR SALE!
    1985 LTD Squire wagon - 5.0L/5spd - powertrain will go into Durango and then part out.
    1985 LTD LX - Stock - Mostly original - wife driving

  18. #18

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    Well, I haven't gotten a new driveshaft yet, but I picked up a new rear suspension setup. That's right! I got an 04 IRS! I am pretty excited. Now my problem is I work 56 hours a week which leaves me little time to wrench. Aargh!

  19. #19
    FEP Senior Member roadkill's Avatar
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    An LTD wagon with IRS? Sweet!

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by roadkill View Post
    An LTD wagon with IRS? Sweet!
    Thanks! But we all know I'm not the first! Mine won't have a big block any time soon though.

  21. #21

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    Awesome! Can't wait to see this progress!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  22. #22
    FEP Senior Member roadkill's Avatar
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    Curious to know how I can source one of those postal Explorer shafts. I work in Ford parts and can order a new one but YIKES is it a lot of $$$, almost a grand! I have to see a wrecked postal Explorer in any yard.

  23. #23

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    The post office would probably have to pay quite a bit more than you. Just have to go to junk yards I guess. That's what I'm going to have to do. I don't think it's anything specific to a postal vehicle. Just what the exploder came with.

  24. #24

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    Okay. I drove 3 hours each way this morning for a driveshaft out of a 2000 Eddie Bauer Edition Ford Explorer 2wd! The driveshaft bolts right up to the Cobra IRS flange and measures 50 3/4 inches long. Whereas the wagon driveshaft I posted earlier was like 51 1/2 inches long. Now I just need a trans yoke with the correct spline pattern for the t5/tremec which takes the larger u-joint of an aluminum driveshaft. I woould post pics of IRS and driveshaft, but I keep getting a message about file quota when I try to upload. Yes, the driveshaft is exactly the same as the postal driveshaft posted earlier! Found it on ebay for $65, pick up only. Long drive, but worth it to me anyways!

  25. #25
    FEP Senior Member roadkill's Avatar
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    Would that driveshaft fit a conventional 8.8/C4 combo ok, even tho it's 3/4 in shorter? Pull-A-Part near me has a whole bunch of Explorers and I would love to be able to use one of those aluminum driveshafts.
    1985 Mercury Marquis LTS... "The Unicorn"
    1978 Fairmont... 306 and a C4.

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