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  1. #26
    FEP Senior Member 854vragtop's Avatar
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    Once your cooling system/block starts developing rust, it can be a real bitch to get rid of. Having gone through this before on one of my early Fords, I would go back to a 50/50 mix and buy one of these drain pans to stick under the area that's leaking. http://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/imag...your-oil_5.jpg It should capture what leaks so you can strain it through a paper towel and pour it back into the radiator. And, it will keep any animals from getting at it. I use mine to carry used coolant to the local recycling center.

    If it doesn't quite fit under your car, drive your front wheels up onto a couple of foot long sections of 2 x 6's.
    Last edited by 854vragtop; 07-07-2013 at 06:58 PM.
    '85 Mustang convertible GT, 5 speed, 4V
    Stock bottom end, Comp Cams XE264HR-14, GT-40P heads w/ Alex's springs, Weiand 8124 Street Warrior,
    Summit Racing 600CFM carb, 8.8 Turbo Coupe rear end w/ 3.55 gears, '94/'95 Cobra brakes, '85 Town Car M/C, '93 Cobra booster, MM Panhard Bar, MM Strut Tower Brace, MM 4 point K-member Brace

    '68 Mercury Cougar, w/ '88 5.0L, 4V
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  2. #27
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    Got some work done today and although not everything went as planed, I still made some progress. Got the damper and the cover off, and cleaned up a lot..man! was this thing filthy

    Just as I started to put it all back on, the cover plate would not align with the dowels and I ruined a brand new gasket from the RTV drying out. So off it all went.. and got a new gasket to try again tomorrow. I figured out that the front oil pan seal that comes with the Fel-pro kit is way to thick, so I will be reusing the Ford that is shaped differently and fits better, and hopefully works out.















    Original Member of 'The Anti-Cowl Hood Club' and 'The Ten-Hole Mafia'.

  3. #28

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    I would install a new double roller timing chain now that you have everything off. Your stock one looks like it has some slack. Cheap insurance IMO. From the looks of that fuel pump eccentric, i guess you have a left over 85 shortblock. I've only seen two other early production 86's that had a fuel pump essentric on a EFI engine.
    Last edited by LilRed86coupe; 07-08-2013 at 07:36 AM.

  4. #29
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    What is the best thing to put on the cover bolts?
    anti-seize, blue loctite or RTV ?
    Original Member of 'The Anti-Cowl Hood Club' and 'The Ten-Hole Mafia'.

  5. #30
    FEP Super Member FM2NOTCH's Avatar
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    that does look pre 86, did it have a fuel pump block off plate where a mechanical pump would have been installed? or is the hole in the timing cover just not opened up?

  6. #31
    FEP Super Member FM2NOTCH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheWizard View Post
    What is the best thing to put on the cover bolts?
    anti-seize, blue loctite or RTV ?
    I say cover the whole bolt with antiseize
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  7. #32
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    Not open is just a dead end hole, nothing there. But yeah definitely pre 86, built dates back to late 85 iirc.
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  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM2NOTCH View Post
    I say cover the whole bolt with antiseize
    Yeah I think that's what I'll do, hopefully they stay in place.
    thanks.
    Original Member of 'The Anti-Cowl Hood Club' and 'The Ten-Hole Mafia'.

  9. #34
    FEP Senior Member 854vragtop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LilRed86coupe View Post
    I would install a new double roller timing chain now that you have everything off. Your stock one looks like it has some slack. Cheap insurance IMO. From the looks of that fuel pump eccentric, i guess you have a left over 85 shortblock. I've only seen two other early production 86's that had a fuel pump essentric on a EFI engine.
    The '88 Crown Vic 5.0L long block that's in my '68 Cougar also had the fuel pump eccentric, even though the timing chain cover had no opening for the mechanical pump arm.
    '85 Mustang convertible GT, 5 speed, 4V
    Stock bottom end, Comp Cams XE264HR-14, GT-40P heads w/ Alex's springs, Weiand 8124 Street Warrior,
    Summit Racing 600CFM carb, 8.8 Turbo Coupe rear end w/ 3.55 gears, '94/'95 Cobra brakes, '85 Town Car M/C, '93 Cobra booster, MM Panhard Bar, MM Strut Tower Brace, MM 4 point K-member Brace

    '68 Mercury Cougar, w/ '88 5.0L, 4V
    My photo website:
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  10. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by 854vragtop View Post
    The '88 Crown Vic 5.0L long block that's in my '68 Cougar also had the fuel pump eccentric, even though the timing chain cover had no opening for the mechanical pump arm.
    Wow, Ford must had alot of left over 85 shortblocks.

  11. #36
    FEP Super Member TWR2003's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LilRed86coupe View Post
    Wow, Ford must had alot of left over 85 shortblocks.
    No 'leftovers'. They intentionally built them like that into the early 1990s. If you look closely you will notice that the fuel pump eccentric on the OPs engine is only the 'inner' part of the 2-piece eccentric that was used previously.
    MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
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  12. #37

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    My 86 had the fuel pump ecc on the cam bolt, and an empty pump boss on the cover. I removed the eccentric when I changed cams.

    +1 on the timing chain. $50 from LMR and takes 10 min to change now that you're there.
    +1 on the sweet looking engine, too!
    My first Mustang
    1986 5.0 GT Convertible: TFTW 170, Comp xe270, Edelbrock Performer, Eibach ProPlus kit, 4 wheel disc, T5z, 3.55.....273hp@5000, 302tq@3400

  13. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by TWR2003 View Post
    No 'leftovers'. They intentionally built them like that into the early 1990s. If you look closely you will notice that the fuel pump eccentric on the OPs engine is only the 'inner' part of the 2-piece eccentric that was used previously.
    Mmm...i see that now. I wonder why they did this since no carbs were in used then, interesting.

  14. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by poetnprophet View Post
    My 86 had the fuel pump ecc on the cam bolt, and an empty pump boss on the cover. I removed the eccentric when I changed cams.

    +1 on the timing chain. $50 from LMR and takes 10 min to change now that you're there.
    +1 on the sweet looking engine, too!
    $27.99 from your local Autozone. I've used these in 500+hp engine's with no failure.

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...2_10145_106264

  15. #40
    FEP Super Member TWR2003's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LilRed86coupe View Post
    Mmm...i see that now. I wonder why they did this since no carbs were in used then, interesting.
    Factory used the inner part of the eccentric with an assembly/pre-timing fixture.
    MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
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  16. #41
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    While getting it all back up and glued together I kept losing the cap from the RTV.. well, I found a cheap solution..

    A wire nut..I got a box of those, I guess losing a cap is no longer a problem.

    Thought I'd share.

    Original Member of 'The Anti-Cowl Hood Club' and 'The Ten-Hole Mafia'.

  17. #42
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    Almost done, today I got most parts buttoned up. Tomorrow I'll bolt up the fan, change the oil and filter, refill the coolant, and say a prayer.

    Original Member of 'The Anti-Cowl Hood Club' and 'The Ten-Hole Mafia'.

  18. #43
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    All done.. took'er on a long hard drive, no leaks (so far)..

    Thanks to all of you hardcore foureyers here .......Ohh..well.. hell..all is well in my Mustang Werld..

    Original Member of 'The Anti-Cowl Hood Club' and 'The Ten-Hole Mafia'.

  19. #44
    FEP Super Member FM2NOTCH's Avatar
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    good job, now wait for the heater core to blow, LOL

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM2NOTCH View Post
    good job, now wait for the heater core to blow, LOL
    Why's that?
    Original Member of 'The Anti-Cowl Hood Club' and 'The Ten-Hole Mafia'.

  21. #46
    FEP Super Member FM2NOTCH's Avatar
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    that would be my luck, have everything leak free and then the heater core would blow.

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM2NOTCH View Post
    that would be my luck, have everything leak free and then the heater core would blow.
    My heater core has been replaced, and if it does leak now .. I'll by-pass it.
    Original Member of 'The Anti-Cowl Hood Club' and 'The Ten-Hole Mafia'.

  23. #48

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    If the feed hose from the intake manifold still has the restrictor in it, no worries. If it doesn't
    still have the restrictor, put one in. Fox heater cores don't just fail for no reason...
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

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  24. #49
    86 50CPRI
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    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    If the feed hose from the intake manifold still has the restrictor in it, no worries. If it doesn't
    still have the restrictor, put one in. Fox heater cores don't just fail for no reason...
    Sadly..I learned this tip the hard way. On more than one car....

  25. #50
    FEP Senior Member 854vragtop's Avatar
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    Here is a good discussion on heater core restrictor alternatives:
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...or-alternative

    I chamfered the inlet and outlet sides of a nylon dowel from Lowes as described here:
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...=1#post1498716
    '85 Mustang convertible GT, 5 speed, 4V
    Stock bottom end, Comp Cams XE264HR-14, GT-40P heads w/ Alex's springs, Weiand 8124 Street Warrior,
    Summit Racing 600CFM carb, 8.8 Turbo Coupe rear end w/ 3.55 gears, '94/'95 Cobra brakes, '85 Town Car M/C, '93 Cobra booster, MM Panhard Bar, MM Strut Tower Brace, MM 4 point K-member Brace

    '68 Mercury Cougar, w/ '88 5.0L, 4V
    My photo website:
    http://www.twilightphoto.com/

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