Thanks, but the turbines came on the car when I bought it and honestly I never liked turbines. Being 15" x 7" they are
a problem on a Fairmont frontend if you have very wide tires. Since the fenders come straight down compared to the
flared edge openings on a Mustang. It has 205/60 Comp TA II's mounted on the front and they clear OK until a 215#
friend rides in the passenger seat, they will rub.
As far as , the u-joint conversion there are lots of videos on YouTube that show how to do it and tell you to buy a
$25 u-joint on eBay. However I would caution against using a $25 Chinese u-joint on a major steering component
(not worth death to save a few dollars) Also one guy on the net drilled a huge hole through the u-joint and shaft for
a cross bolt. Personally it would worry me from drilling out most of the shaft below the weld. After looking at his
weld I would be worried too. If you have a good weld this is not needed IMHO.
For the u-joint choice I bought an American made Sweet brand u-joint and never gave it a second thought with
my life. Since my car has manual steering I needed a 9/16"-26 spline to 3/4" smooth bore u-joint. Power steering
cars use a 3/4"-36 spline. Either way after looking around on the internet to find the best deal I settled on buying
it on eBay and oddly the best deal was local.
Manual Steering
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360656825360...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Power Steering
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sweet-Mfg-40...FUcghO&vxp=mtr
Just make sure to install the splined portion of the u-joint all the way on the steering rack shaft before you make
you cut mark on the solid shaft. It not hard to complete this modification, but measure twice and cut once. I had
trouble getting the shaft coming out of the column in slide in and out easy and ended up removing the column to
free up the shaft or one can loosen the rack mounting bolts as another option. Because of the shaft not moving I
knocked some paint off during installation, but it's on there.
Tom
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