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  1. #1

    Default brake lights out?

    Previously, I changed headlight switch and all was fine. Then months later, the running lights and brake lights went out. (two days ago) When I jiggled the switch, they came back on. I took out the switch, cleaned everything with crc contact cleaner, emery board and plugged all back in. Still, only the running lights come on. Is there a way to ID the problem wire? Or does my problem lie elsewhere. UGH! Thanks
    Mike
    79 Coupe, 357W balanced, AFR 185s, Vic Jr, Holley 750, C4 roller, 4.56 8.8 spool, 26 MT Drags, 11.00 @ 123
    83 Mustang GT, 88 GT engine, T5

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    I have an issue with an intermittently working left taillight bulb. It is only one bulb in the taillight. I've traced it down to the wire inserted into the bulb holder itself. Check your bulb holder wires to see if they're loose in the fitting. I taped mine to keep it from moving while driving.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  3. #3

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    sure the wires are not broken down by the switch? it was a common problem on these cars. my 90 did it.. th ewires may not look broken but could be inside the casing.

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member TWR2003's Avatar
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    Brake light circuit does NOT go thru the headlight switch.

    Power goes from the fuse box to the brake light switch (on the brake pedal) to the turn signal switch (in the steering column) and on to the lamps in the rear.
    MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
    EF: Im shootin' pool Fats. When I miss you can shoot.

  5. #5

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    OK. The flashers work so it is not the fuse. And, the turn signals work. So, is it the Brake light switch? Thanks for the replies!
    Mike
    79 Coupe, 357W balanced, AFR 185s, Vic Jr, Holley 750, C4 roller, 4.56 8.8 spool, 26 MT Drags, 11.00 @ 123
    83 Mustang GT, 88 GT engine, T5

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by 79stang351w View Post
    Previously, I changed headlight switch and all was fine. Then months later, the running lights and brake lights went out. (two days ago) When I jiggled the switch, they came back on. I took out the switch, cleaned everything with crc contact cleaner, emery board and plugged all back in. Still, only the running lights come on. Is there a way to ID the problem wire? Or does my problem lie elsewhere. UGH! Thanks
    Mike
    I would just put a new brake light switch on that brake pedal and be done with it. I'm sure that's where your problem is.

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member TWR2003's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LILRED86COUPE View Post
    I would just put a new brake light switch on that brake pedal and be done with it. I'm sure that's where your problem is.
    ^^^^Umm - youre guessing.

    Do yourself a big favor, a bit of work, and $$ for the switch and TEST the circuit first (doesn't cost a penny). Gently disconnect the brake light switch connector from the switch on the pedal. The connector will have two LGRN/RED wires. Put a jumper wire across the two contacts in the connector. If the brake lights come on the problem is in the switch. If they do not come on the problem is somewhere else in the circuit.

    MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
    EF: Im shootin' pool Fats. When I miss you can shoot.

  8. #8

    Default

    Is this on the '79 or the '83? The '79 shares the brake lights with the turn signal function,
    but IIRC, the '83 has dedicated rear turn signal bulbs, no? If this is the '79, the brake light
    problem could still be in the turn signal switch, even if the turn signals work. But if this is
    the '83, then I'd agree this is a problem with the brake light switch.

    But.

    I wouldn't replace anything without testing it first. It's really easy to tell whether the switch
    is working or not. I'll also mention here, if the switch is not working, the problem may be
    mechanical rather than electrical.

    There must be a small amount of lost motion in the pedal-to-pedal rod pivot, or the brake
    light switch won't activate. The master cylinder or brake booster rod works against the
    springs in the switch to turn on the brake lights when pedal pressure closes up this clearance.
    I have seen several creative interpretations of how the bushings and washers get installed,
    that prevented a perfectly good brake light switch from operating. The key here is, no part
    of the switch should ever go around the hat-shaped bushing, and the switch should be fairly
    easy to rotate, and should snap back to home when you let go.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  9. #9

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    Thanks for the replies! I'll test it. It's the 83.
    79 Coupe, 357W balanced, AFR 185s, Vic Jr, Holley 750, C4 roller, 4.56 8.8 spool, 26 MT Drags, 11.00 @ 123
    83 Mustang GT, 88 GT engine, T5

  10. #10

    Default

    check the wiring in the area of that brake light switch.

    may be broken in this area,,

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  11. #11

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    UPDATE! You guys ROCK! I tested the plug wires, and I got power because the brake lights came on when I jumped it. I bought a new switch, properly installed it, and everything works! Thanks for the help!
    Mike
    79 Coupe, 357W balanced, AFR 185s, Vic Jr, Holley 750, C4 roller, 4.56 8.8 spool, 26 MT Drags, 11.00 @ 123
    83 Mustang GT, 88 GT engine, T5

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by 79stang351w View Post
    UPDATE! You guys ROCK! I tested the plug wires, and I got power because the brake lights came on when I jumped it. I bought a new switch, properly installed it, and everything works! Thanks for the help!
    Mike
    Congrats!!! I was 99% sure it was the switch. Good job.

  13. #13

    Default

    i have the same problem. i have a failing brake booster. but i have turn signals i have running lights i have hazzards. but no brake lights. i jumped the connector still nothing. fuses look ok. the connector i was spliced before i got it and i cut all the crap out. the red wire was hacked in to the remaining wire. i think the switch is bad, maybe not a good connection. idk. at one point they would work intermittent. now nothing. please help.
    85 ford mustang gt 5.0 h.o.5 spd
    68 chevy nova SS 350 (slightly modded)
    92 ford ranger prerunner

  14. #14

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    jumped the two and still nothing. could the wire from fuse block to the switch or even the wire from the switch to the lights be bad, or both for that matter.
    85 ford mustang gt 5.0 h.o.5 spd
    68 chevy nova SS 350 (slightly modded)
    92 ford ranger prerunner

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4eyed85gt1 View Post
    ..i have turn signals i have running lights i have hazzards. but no brake lights...
    The brake lights were shared with the turn signals and hazard flashers on an '82, but they're separate
    on an '85. Have you checked the brake light bulbs yet? Sometimes it's the simple stuff that gets ya...
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  16. #16

    Default

    i don't have any power to the connector that plugs in to the switch. the bulbs look good but the ends look a little bit on the rough side. and i have power to the fuse for the wiring for the switch. it supposed to go from the fuse box to the switch out to the tail lights. if i looked at the diagram right.
    85 ford mustang gt 5.0 h.o.5 spd
    68 chevy nova SS 350 (slightly modded)
    92 ford ranger prerunner

  17. #17

    Default

    sorry if im asking to many questions. i could go buy new bulbs but if i have no power to the brake switch .... yet all other lights work great
    85 ford mustang gt 5.0 h.o.5 spd
    68 chevy nova SS 350 (slightly modded)
    92 ford ranger prerunner

  18. #18
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    No such thing as too many questions around here. We don't have a monthly limit. Ask all the questions you need, someone will provide an answer.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  19. #19
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4eyed85gt1 View Post
    i don't have any power to the connector that plugs in to the switch. the bulbs look good but the ends look a little bit on the rough side. and i have power to the fuse for the wiring for the switch. it supposed to go from the fuse box to the switch out to the tail lights. if i looked at the diagram right.
    If you have no power at the switch, then you need to trace the power wire back to the fuse panel and determine why. First I would make sure that you have power on both sides of the fuse. If not, then the fuse is bad even if it looks good. If you do have power on both sides of the fuse, that means that somewhere between the panel and the switch there is a break in the wire. Hopefully you can trace it down and repair it.

    As for new bulbs, I am sure they can't hurt, but as you stated if you don't have power to the switch then it won't matter. Just do yourself a favor and check all the little simple things before you make more work for yourself. I have done it to myself many times, so I try to stay in the habit of checking things at least twice before I determine they are good or bad.

    Good Luck!

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

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  20. #20

    Default

    How can one trace the wire back to to fuse box without tearing in to the dash. I did however trace the wires in to another wire loom. But from there i cant get my hands in there to pull away the loom to further trace the problem wire. Does the dash hull need to be removed to further gain more room to access the area of the fuse box. Or can the fuse box be partially removed to get my hand up inside the dash.
    85 ford mustang gt 5.0 h.o.5 spd
    68 chevy nova SS 350 (slightly modded)
    92 ford ranger prerunner

  21. #21

    Default

    I did check the fuse block and it has power on one side where the fuse plugs in.
    85 ford mustang gt 5.0 h.o.5 spd
    68 chevy nova SS 350 (slightly modded)
    92 ford ranger prerunner

  22. #22

    Default

    Well, power on one side of a fuse, and not the other == a bad fuse, which would make sense,
    since you're not seeing anything on the light green/red wire at the brake light switch. But I'm
    confused. You mentioned earlier that the hazard flashers work, and those run off the same
    fuse as the stop lights. Am I misreading something?
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  23. #23

    Default

    No thats correct im kinda at a loss.
    85 ford mustang gt 5.0 h.o.5 spd
    68 chevy nova SS 350 (slightly modded)
    92 ford ranger prerunner

  24. #24
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Post removed by me. Not pertinent to current conversation and troubleshooting session.
    Last edited by IDMooseMan; 08-20-2013 at 12:37 AM.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
    2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
    Buyer/Seller Experience Link
    Build Thread
    The Four-Eyed Game - 2018 Version

  25. #25

    Default

    OK, so what I do, when things stop making sense, is to go back and verify -everything-
    I thought was true or false, from the beginning.

    It's possible you have a break in the splice where the circuits for 4-ways and brake lights
    join at the back of the fusebox, but that's a very low probability, and it still doesn't explain
    the readings you're getting at the fuse, unless you're looking at the wrong fuse.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

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