Close



Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Combo advice

  1. #1

    Default Combo advice

    I have a 84 t-top 5spd that im going in a street/strip direction with focus more on the strip aspect. My plan was to start with the chassis/suspension and build up from there since with a t-top i would like to get the best support i can from the chassis. But on the way back from carlisle the motor started smoking immensly on acceleration. Which after sme further inspection/research turned out to be the rings. Now my question is my original thought was a simple 306 with heads cam and intake and a good carb and a shot of spray. My goal is mid to low 11's with spray and a good suspension setup. My question is this possible with this combo or should i look bigger? Any help would be greatly appreciated , this is my first carb mustang so i need all the info i can get lol. Oh and for any northeast/new england guys any machine shop/engine builder recomendations would be much appreciated.

  2. #2
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Raymond, New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,896
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default

    While I do not claim to be an expert, I have been asking the same questions to myself for a while, and I have pretty much decided to go with a 351 based motor for my next build. It is just easier to build power out of 351 cubes than out of 302 CID, you do not have to ring the motor out as high to get the power, and the costs are almost the same. Low elevens are actualy a fairly serious number to get to.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  3. #3

    Default

    You can get to 11's with just a good running 306. Without even using the hit. If you don't have smog in your area. I would go with a 351 based motor. Depending on your set up, weight, and track. The 351w could net you high 9's on motor. Stock 351w block, scat stroker, custom cam, 225or bigger head, 10:1. And you got 600+ bhp easy. My car at a race weight of 3,000lbs with me in it. Has gone 10.51 @ 126. with only 430whp. All on Cali's 91 pump gas. Again if you don't have smog laws. 351w > 302w imo

  4. #4

    Default

    First off get sub frame connectors welded in,and concentrate on traction,then focus on power. 350hp is great but if all your doing is liquefying tires standing still your 60' time is gonna suck

  5. #5

    Default

    i will def look into whats involved with the 351w conversion, and in my state my car is exempt from emissions due to its age so im all good there.

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Shredding Rubber View Post
    First off get sub frame connectors welded in,and concentrate on traction,then focus on power. 350hp is great but if all your doing is liquefying tires standing still your 60' time is gonna suck
    Yes my main conncern first is the suspension and chassis, the motor just made its way farther up the list when it started smoking to the point that the motorcyclist behind me came around to my door and said "is everything ok it looked like your car was on fire" lol

  7. #7

    Default

    Good power can be made with either engine but the 351 based engines will usually make more torque. Full length or through the floor frame connectors are a start. You will need a 6 point roll bar for the times you want as well. Don't forget to reinforce the torque boxes either, They are much easier to deal with before the damage has been done. A good set of adjustable struts & shocks will go a long way towards proper weight transfer if you don't already have them. Get as much weight off the car as you can,especially the front end. Adjustable rear control arms & some light wheels with sticky rears & you should be set.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Farmer83 View Post
    Good power can be made with either engine but the 351 based engines will usually make more torque. Full length or through the floor frame connectors are a start. You will need a 6 point roll bar for the times you want as well. Don't forget to reinforce the torque boxes either, They are much easier to deal with before the damage has been done. A good set of adjustable struts & shocks will go a long way towards proper weight transfer if you don't already have them. Get as much weight off the car as you can,especially the front end. Adjustable rear control arms & some light wheels with sticky rears & you should be set.
    i guess might aswell put the engine on hold and focus on chassis and supsension and then drop in a 351.

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by t-top84 View Post
    i guess might aswell put the engine on hold and focus on chassis and supsension and then drop in a 351.
    A good cage will all so stiffen up you car. I have a 8 point cage in mine and sub frame connectors on mine.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grove_Rat View Post
    A good cage will all so stiffen up you car. I have a 8 point cage in mine and sub frame connectors on mine.
    a cage was on my list i want the chassis as strong as possible since it doesnt have much structural integrity up top with the t-tops

  11. #11

    Default

    I'm 100% all for chassis first. But if your motor is blown up. No point in doing suspension to a car that don't run. When taking weight off the car. Don't take any off the back of the car. You will need it for traction & transfer. My car is a t-top car also. So I know about frame twist. If at all possible get a 8 point cage, and not a 8 point bar. I have a bar and the car still twist. As for conversion parts for a 351. Not much to get. Double hump oil pan, and headers. You can even use stock exhaust, if you get the 351w shorty headers.

  12. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by warhorse58gt View Post
    I'm 100% all for chassis first. But if your motor is blown up. No point in doing suspension to a car that don't run. When taking weight off the car. Don't take any off the back of the car. You will need it for traction & transfer. My car is a t-top car also. So I know about frame twist. If at all possible get a 8 point cage, and not a 8 point bar. I have a bar and the car still twist. As for conversion parts for a 351. Not much to get. Double hump oil pan, and headers. You can even use stock exhaust, if you get the 351w shorty headers.
    You'll also need a new dizzy and intake manifold to go along with the parts you mentioned. The 302 motor mounts,timing cover,water pump,pulleys,starter and bell housing work on the 351w. The alternator bracket will work also but the A/C-power steering bracket can be bought from Ford racing,or just the power steering bracket. Here's a link to both:http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...racket-With-AC
    Last edited by LilRed86coupe; 06-29-2013 at 04:28 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •