Drag slicks.
This may be a dumb question, but here goes- how can you tell how much life is left on a set of drag slicks? I have never actually even looked at a pair closely, and now I am looking for some. There is a man at the Amherst flea market selling a pair of slicks mounted on ten holes, and it occurred to me I have no idea how to tell how much tread is left on a tire that started out bald! Are there wear bars, or something similar on these?
Last edited by brianj; 04-27-2013 at 08:35 PM.
1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.
I think there are little holes in the tread area in a line from sidewall to sidewall. 50 percent positive on this.
I have no idea and driving a 4-cyl with a non-locking 7.5", I don't think I ever have to worry about it.
Last edited by IDMooseMan; 04-28-2013 at 04:28 PM.
Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
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I can vouch for this on M/T ET drags.Originally Posted by Trail
408/T5/3.73's
We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.
They have indicator holes as stated above.
Keith formerly STLPONDS
'79 V8 coupe in the works!
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See picture..Just one example. Looking for the holes.
1966 Big Block Sport Fury.
The holes indicate how much rubber is left. However, even if the slicks have plenty of meat on them, they may be old and hard. For this reason, many racers use a durometer (der-a-meter) to check hardness.
So, if I'm understanding how this works, the presence of "holes" on the slicks means it has good "tread" left.
No "holes" means the slick is used up.
Is that correct?
Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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Yes, but like stated above the holes might be good, but the slicks might be hard from being old. Be careful. Best to buy new ones IMO.
1966 Big Block Sport Fury.
Thank you.
1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.
I understand, Johnny. I just wanted to make sure I could verify the slicks had usable tread left. Like I stated in post #3 above...I have no idea and driving a 4-cyl with a non-locking 7.5", I don't think I ever have to worry about it.
Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
Buyer/Seller Experience Link
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The Four-Eyed Game - 2018 Version
You can poke the tread surface w/your thumbnail to get a rough idea how soft they are. Look @ the white lettering on the sidewall, if it is brown it MAY indicate that they were overheated. Keep in mind if you do run slicks you need a driveshaft loop.
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