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  1. #1

    Default Front Brake tirade of questions...

    So what do I need to replace the wheel bearings up front?

    What I gather so far:
    inner bearing + race set
    outer bearing + race set
    wheel seal

    Are our cars stock caliper bolts torx headed?

    Do I need to push the piston in when I change pads?

    I'm replacing the master cylinder. Is there a gasket between the mc and the booster?

    How much fluid will I need (ballpark figure) as I'm replacing both the MC and the two front hoses?


    Thanks so much in advance!
    Last edited by flinfantryrebel; 03-23-2013 at 04:50 PM. Reason: spelling
    Tony

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member TWR2003's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flinfantryrebel View Post
    So what do I need to replace the wheel bearings up front?

    What I gather so far:
    inner bearing + race set
    outer bearing + race set
    wheel seal

    Are our cars stock caliper bolts torx headed?

    Do I need to push the piston in when I change pads?

    I'm replacing the master cylinder. Is there a gasket between the mc and the booster?

    How much fluid will I need (ballpark figure) as I'm replacing both the MC and the two front hoses?


    Thanks so much in advance!
    Yes on parts. Use the correct tool to drive the races in. Be sure to pack bearings completely with extreme pressure wheel bearing grease (we like EP moly). Critical to follow factory procedure to set wheel bearing pre-load.

    Most are hex head

    Yes. You can use a large C-clamp

    Factory had a small foam gasket but you dont absolutely need it.

    You could get away with a pint but buy a quart. Its not much more and we recommend you FLUSH the system (not just bleed).
    Last edited by TWR2003; 03-23-2013 at 06:00 PM.
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  3. #3
    FEP Power Member jessew's Avatar
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    The rotors for my zephyr had races already. I believe you torque to 15-25 inch pounds then loosen one half turn, then tighten to fifteen inch pounds, check to make sure though, don't want to cook them.

    As for calipers, my zephyr is a 1983 model year, made in August of 1982. For November and December of 82, Ford changed the calipers. The bolts on the new ones are Allen, and the caliper bolts are wrapped around by the pads. Switching to the 1983 calipers worked for me, plus there's no chance for the pads to slide out. Mustangs may have switched also, not sure.

    Just use a C clamp to compress the piston.
    1983 Mercury Zephyr Z7 AM Radio, no a/c, 200 3.3l I6, C5 Automatic, Police scanner, 40 Channel Cobra 29LTD CB radio, PA system mounted under bumper

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  4. #4

    Default

    What size c clamp would work?

    How do you flush the lines? I've heard a few different ways but I can only vaguely remember them.

    And my car was built in Nov. 1982 so it will be interesting to see.
    Tony

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    Are our cars stock caliper bolts torx headed?
    My 83L originally had torx. The replacements were hex. I preferred the hex.
    Dave

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  6. #6
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flinfantryrebel View Post
    What size c clamp would work?...
    Shouldn't need too large of one. Probably 3" - 6" should be more than big enough. Make sure you remove fluid from the MC before you compress the piston. The MC fluid level WILL rise when you compress the piston.

    Quote Originally Posted by flinfantryrebel View Post
    ...How do you flush the lines? I've heard a few different ways but I can only vaguely remember them...
    Same procedure as bleeding. The only difference is the amount you flush. Bleeding gets the air out of the line.

    Flushing accomplishes the same thing, BUT you want to see clean, clear fluid exiting rather than just no more bubbles.

    I'm old-school (and it works for me, so I'm okay with it) and I go from farthest to closest. There is merit in doing the closest to farthest, but the main idea is to remove ALL the air and ALL the old fluid.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
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  7. #7
    FEP Power Member qtrracer's Avatar
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    To flush, the easiest way is to remove the old fluid from the M/C and refill with clean. Then bleed until you see clean fluid.

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