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Thread: '84 GT Overhaul

  1. #51

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    Quote Originally Posted by dburdyshaw View Post
    Awesome build. Subscribing.
    Me too. Very impressive to say the least.

  2. #52
    FEP Senior Member Quicksilver's Avatar
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    These pictures were taken in July 2012. This brings the build pretty much up to date on where the car is now. I got to the middle of last summer and decided that it was time to have fun with the car. I could work on the things that people don’t see over the winter.

    I thought that because I was putting the battery in the back and not in a battery box that it would be a good idea to use the spare tire cover and make a pattern and then make one out of aluminum. I will also be making a divider to separate the battery from the fuel filler neck that is also in the back.



    I mentioned earlier that the shift light was going to be removed from the steering column and hidden in the dash behind the passenger side dashboard vent. The bracket, even though it looks bent was made to fit around the parts and wires that are behind the dash. I lengthened the wires so the light could connect up with the wiring harness under the steering column.



    This shows the shift light in the vent. Because my car was originally a non A/C car, the passenger side dash plate came with only one vent closest to the passenger door. By using a dash plate from an A/C car, I can hide the light in there without having to moving any ventilation tubing. You can also see where I mounted the ignition coil behind the glove compartment door.



    The kick panels with the front speakers are in the car. From earlier pictures there are two extra gauges (boost and fuel pressure) in the dash face plate beside the heater controls. Once again, because I didn’t have A/C, I was able to fit them in.



    I wanted to fix up the seats as the original red fabric was showing some signs of wear. When I was at Carlisle in 2011, I purchased new seat foam and brought it home in the back seat of a friend’s Shelby. Then, I wanted to find a color and fabric combination that I thought would look good and try to tie the interior and exterior together. I worked the guys at TMI who sent me fabric samples and agreed to make one-off seats using the colors and fabrics I wanted. One change you can see is that the piping is not the same on the front and rear seats. When I got the new seat covers, I thought of installing them myself. I changed my mind and got the help of a local upholstery shop that works on hot rods. As it turned out, I knew the guy from years ago so the two of us worked at the seats together. Sure nice to work with someone who knows how to do upholstery.







    At the same time that the seats were being done, I got him to trim the new rear carpet. I got one from LMR to go with the new real quarter panels except it was special ordered to come in canyon red. I also installed the redline gas struts for the hatch. An interior panel was installed on the inside of the hatch.



    From this angle, the fabric covering for the fuel filler can be seen along with the switch on the rear panel to turn off the dome light. The rear shock tower brace was painted to match the exterior of the car.



    Here is the finished engine. I am working at designing a panel that covers the top of the bumper cover to fill the gap above the headlights (I only got as far as making a cardboard template). Don’t know if anyone had made one themselves for a four eyed car. I know Scott Rod Fab has one but it changes the rad brackets.



    Here is a close-up of the wheels I put on the car. These are the Fast Lane wheels from Billet Specialities. I went with 17 x 8” in the front and 17 x 9.5” for the rear.



    Here is the finished car ready for the street.



    I'll try to post a video of the car running in a week or so and pictures of any other upcoming changes.

  3. #53

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    Very nice car!
    1998 SVT Contour Daily Driver- K1 Racing Wheels CAI
    1985 Mustang GT T-top Black
    Freshened/Blueprinted 302-Heavily Worked GT40 Heads SS valves and Heavy Duty springs-1.6r Crane Cams RR-Custom Grind Comp Cam-Wieand Intake-Edelbrock Carb-MSD-King Cobra Clutch-World Class T5-Cobra 4whl Disc-31spl 4:10 rear-Longtubes-Strange 10Ways-Mac Exhaust with 3" Rolled tips-
    1984 RS Turbo Capri 100% Show car
    1982 Mustang GT

  4. #54
    FEP Member huck01955's Avatar
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    What a sweet car . I love how you hide everything great job
    Last edited by huck01955; 02-28-2013 at 06:55 AM.

  5. #55
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    Awesome car! The engine bay is jaw dropping!

    And I already told you but... I love the color!

    Can you post more pice of the whole car from different angles? just for our viewing pleasure LOL

  6. #56
    FEP Supporter Nate90's Avatar
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    Awesome job! Love what you have done. I have a 85 lx coupe and start my resto this spring and hopefully be done by mid summer next year. You gave me alot of ideas thanks!

  7. #57
    FEP Super Member dburdyshaw's Avatar
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    Tell me about the seats. Did you use stock colors? Dark red and Grey? They look AWESOME.

  8. #58
    FEP Senior Member Quicksilver's Avatar
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    Thanks for the compliments guys. I'll try to post some pictures soon showing different angles of the car and a video with the engine running. For the seats, I chose the factory colors. I'll look at my emails and invoice and give you the names and codes for the colors.

  9. #59
    FEP Super Member SVT Rob's Avatar
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    Beautiful car!!! You've given me some ideas on how to do some items to my '84 RS. Great build!!

  10. #60

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    Love this build, great job!

  11. #61

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    Nice Craftsmanship

  12. #62
    FEP Senior Member Quicksilver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dburdyshaw View Post
    Tell me about the seats. Did you use stock colors? Dark red and Grey? They look AWESOME.
    For the fabric on the seats, I did use the factory colors. But, I made the front seats different than the rear seats to draw your eye to the two main colors.

    TMI reps Waylon Krumrie and Korin Velazquez were very helpful with the seats as the color combination I wanted is not listed in their website/catalogue.

    The seats are as follows:

    Front Buckets: 43-75624-Y59-Y613-Y61

    Canyon Red (Y59) Cloth Bolsters

    Dark Gray (Y613) checkered cloth inserts

    Dark Gray Piping (Y61)

    (This corresponds to 1985-86 Cloth Gt Sport Seat Upholstery with pull-out knee bolsters).

    Rear Seat: 43-75624-Y59-Y613-Y59 (Different piping from front seats)

    Canyon Red (Y59) Cloth Bolsters

    Dark Gray (Y613) checkered cloth inserts

    Canyon Red (Y59) piping on the rear

    TMI made them and shipped them directly to me. I already had new seat foam for the front buckets (including the pull-out bolsters) that I got from Fox Mustang Restoration at the show in Carlisle in 2011.

    The new seat foam really gave them their shape back as the original foam was wearing out. I did get the help of a custom upholstery shop and had them do the seats. I did the disassembly onsite with them and they put them together. The guy really knows his stuff and has all the right tools including a power hog ringer.
    To use different fabrics and have them custom made from scratch would have cost a lot more and taken more time.

  13. #63
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    WOW, very impressive build!!! Thanks for taking time to post up.

    JT
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  14. #64
    FEP Super Member dburdyshaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quicksilver View Post
    For the fabric on the seats, I did use the factory colors. But, I made the front seats different than the rear seats to draw your eye to the two main colors.

    TMI reps Waylon Krumrie and Korin Velazquez were very helpful with the seats as the color combination I wanted is not listed in their website/catalogue.

    ...

    TMI made them and shipped them directly to me. I already had new seat foam for the front buckets (including the pull-out bolsters) that I got from Fox Mustang Restoration at the show in Carlisle in 2011.

    The new seat foam really gave them their shape back as the original foam was wearing out. I did get the help of a custom upholstery shop and had them do the seats. I did the disassembly onsite with them and they put them together. The guy really knows his stuff and has all the right tools including a power hog ringer.
    To use different fabrics and have them custom made from scratch would have cost a lot more and taken more time.
    Very helpful information. I appreciate it.

    Once more >>> awesome-looking interior.

  15. #65
    FEP Senior Member Quicksilver's Avatar
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    Here are a couple of pictures from different angles.

    I'll post a video of the car running on the thread "what did you do today..."






  16. #66
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Looks sharp.... sleek... very nice!

  17. #67
    FEP Senior Member Quicksilver's Avatar
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    So, I thought I would post an update or two.

    When I originally put the car together, I never filled the gas tank past half. Well, back in August, I finally filled the tank for a planned day trip. Found a leak (major) in the gas tank. Had to quickly disconnect everything and drop the tank...got a nice bath. Took everything out, got the tank steam cleaned and then re-welded where I closed off the passenger side filler neck hole. Put everything back together, put in a new fuel filter and put gas back in.

    The car always ran at 39 PSI for fuel pressure but, now for some reason, I only had 30 to 32 PSI. I thought that perhaps I missed something in the tank when I put it back together causing dirt/blockage in the fuel line. I put on another new fuel filter and there was no change.

    I adjusted the fuel pressure regulator (vacuum line off) and the gauge stayed at 30/32 psi. (Kirban adjustable fuel pressure regulator, the older style, probably 15 plus years old). There is no smell of gas with the vacuum line off.



    I swapped in a new autometer fuel pressure gauge in the dashboard (just the gauge) to see what the fuel pressure would read. I still got 30 psi. Then, I swapped in the new sending unit and tried again...still 30 psi.

    I got a new Kirban fuel pressure regulator and installed it, adjusted it but no change.



    Up to this point, I was looking for something mechanical that had failed as the wiring had been great until I dropped the tank to fix the leak.

    At this point, I started checking the voltage in the wiring. Perhaps I should have started doing this first.

    I had 14 volts (car running) at the battery and 14v at the fuel pump relay. But going to the back of the car, the inertia switch and the fuel pump had less than 12v, not enough power to spin the pump.
    Originally the fuel pump relay was under the driver's seat and then when I converted to SEFI, I moved it to under the hood and later to under the dash. The original wires under the driver’s seat were soldered together. I rechecked the soldering on the wires and then checked all the fuel pump wiring front to back.
    Well, I chose to get a new BBK (Walbaro) 190L fuel pump, dropped the tank again and installed it.

    The car fired right up nice and healthy with 50 psi of fuel pressure. (I had the fuel pressure regulator turned up from before). I turned the pressure back down to where Kirban suggests (43 psi without the vacuum line on). This gave me the 39 psi I was looking for.

    Then, I put my hand on the fuel pump wires in the back of the car only to find out they were very hot. I Shut the car off and disconnected the battery.

    Now, the only remaining issue seemed to be the resistor wire ground for the fuel pump. The original factory wiring for the rear lights, fuel sender, pump, etc. provides for a common ground on the driver's side of the hatch striker bolt. Everything on the car works, but the ground wire for the fuel pump has a two foot section that is a “resistor wire “. This is what was getting hot.

    I did some searching on the net and found that others with Turbo Coupes and SVOs have run into this same issue when they swap out/change around the fuel pumps. The answer came in replacing the 2 foot section of resistor wire with 12 gauge wire and making a separate ground on the passenger side for just the fuel pump.

    The wire sticking out of the car is the resistor wire which leads to the taped section of wires and the ground screw.


    Here you can see the new 12 gauge ground wire for the fuel pump running from floor grommet to the back panel.


    After with the new ground wire, I started the car. Fuel pressure went to 70 psi. I shut the car off and adjusted the fuel pressure again. Now I have the 39/40 psi that I need…and the ground wire is cold!

    So, a new pump and a better ground wire and back on the road again. So, the question might be what caused the wiring problem when I took the tank out to get it re-welded? The car had been running fine until then. But, now it feels stronger.
    Rob

  18. #68
    FEP Senior Member Quicksilver's Avatar
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    In October, with the thought of more highway driving this upcoming summer, I picked up 3.73 gears and decided to swap out the 4.10’s.

    This time, instead of getting my buddy’s expertise and doing them at home, I went to his shop and let him do them there on the hoist. I had already changed the speedo gear in the transmission at home before I went over to his shop. Also, when I bought the gears I got the Ford Racing installation kit with new bearings as well.

    One of his recommendations was to not use the pinion crush collar but to use a pinion spacer to maintain a constant spacing/tooth wear pattern over time. He does this on race cars as well. He did the measurements to determine what size spacer was required. While everything was apart, new bearings and races were installed. Also, new axle seals were also installed. A new re-usable diff cover gasket from LMR was also used.

    Here are some of the pictures at the shop.













    Although I loved the acceleration of the 4.10's around town, I find the 3.73's (with my current set up) to be a nicer gear for all round use in town and on the highway.
    Rob

  19. #69
    FEP Senior Member Quicksilver's Avatar
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    I had been thinking about a new hatchback window for the car as mine had some chips and scratches in the glass. I looked locally and no rear windows could be found. I looked at NPD but there was none for hatchbacks that were tinted (factory) with the rear defroster. I managed to find a CarLite rear glass on E Bay and in October, I ordered it. It arrived late October (in perfect condition) and I got it installed the first week of November. With the weather being questionable, I got lucky and the installer agreed to make a “house call”. Once installed, he told me not to open the hatch or drive the car until the window sealer had set-up. He suggested 3 to 4 hours, I gave it 4 days.

    In this picture, they had just removed the trim and the glass. The rubber trim that is hanging down was repositioned before the glass was installed as this provides a cushion for the glass to sit on.


    Here, you can see the two red tabs that the hatchback glass rests on in the frame.


    The sealer had just been applied and the glass was set in place using the suction cups and positioned.


    The window trim is now back on the car. The rear window defroster will be re-connected later after the sealer has set up.



    In this picture, the glass installation is complete. The back window still needs to be tinted.


    I let the window set up for 4 days and then took the car to get the window tinted. The tint shop knew that the job was dependent on good weather and they were great about it. They worked around the weather to get me in and out.

    The back glass was tinted one shade darker that the side glass giving the impression that all the windows are darker (depending on the angle you are looking from).


    It was 36 degrees out but sunny and dry. I had the heater on to keep warm. The tint shop asked that I leave the rear window alone for a while to give it time to dry. As it snowed the next day, that wasn’t a problem. Come on spring…
    Rob

  20. #70

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    Wow, wow, wow. Just read through the entire build. Incredible attention to detail. Well done!

  21. #71

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    Wow! Not sure how I missed this the first time around, but WOW! Excellent job! Hats off to you, sir!
    1982 Dominator GT
    *1st Dominator ever sold and
    autographed by Jackie Stewart *
    1993 Corvette
    2005 Roush Mustang
    2008 Escape
    (DD)

  22. #72

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    Crazy the amount of time and effort put into this ride! Not every mod is my cup of tea but the level of level of detail put into this build is off the charts!
    1993 triple white GT
    2004 AZ Mach 1
    2003 zinc yellow Cobra
    1983 410 Windsor tko 500

  23. #73
    FEP Member 83tb's Avatar
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    I like this build

  24. #74
    FEP Power Member Motorcity's Avatar
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    Absolutely beautiful! Good job, man!
    1985 Mustang GT, owned since 1989
    2000 Expedition XLT 219k miles
    2011 Expedition XLT

  25. #75
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    WOW!!!!! Simply AWESOME!!!!

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