Cracked Interior Plastic

[ahgrafx]

i have a crack about 2 inches long in the quarter panel interior plastic, anyone know of a good way to patch this? maybe some sort of glue on the back side? I'd hate to have to buy a whole new interior piece, it is the largest piece in the car.
thanks in advance

[webestang]

Plastic repair kit.....
http://www.eastwood.com/rigid-plastic-repair-kits.html

[Coast2CoaStang]

I would take a dremel tool or similar and bevel out the crack a bit from the backside. Be careful not to go to far. Then you can use a plastic repair product over that area.

[ahgrafx]

thanks guys! lookin into it

[wgt500]

On the back side, use JB Weld to adhere piece of sheetmetal to the plastic. Overlap the crack about an inch on all sides. You will destroy the car before the repair comes a part!

[ahgrafx]

thats a good idea wgt500, cheaper than the plastic repair stuff thats for sure

[wgt500]

thats a good idea wgt500, cheaper than the plastic repair stuff thats for sure

You will be satisfied with this method. I've done maybe several hundred plastic cracks like this in my shop. Everything from dash panels and interior trim to bumper covers and fascia panels. Never had one fail yet. Should be stronger than original. Just make sure the surface is well scuffed and clean.

[ahgrafx]

awesome will do thanks again WGT

[black88coupe]

You will be satisfied with this method. I've done maybe several hundred plastic cracks like this in my shop. Everything from dash panels and interior trim to bumper covers and fascia panels. Never had one fail yet. Should be stronger than original. Just make sure the surface is well scuffed and clean.

I would have never thought of this. I would have been worried that the JB Weld would have had a negative reaction with the plastic. Got a few projects in mind now for this method. Thanks wgt500.

[86GreenStang]

If the crack edges still touch, take a cotton swab dipped in acetone and from the back side clean the crack. Be careful not to get acetone on the front texture as it will remove the texture. Use crazy glue with the brush and coat only one side of the crack carefully. Align the two crack edges and wait one minute. This can create a seamless hardly noticble repair for less than $10. The acetone acts like a solvent used originally used in the plastic when it was molded. Do not repeat do not get acetone on the front it will soften and remove the texture.

[black88coupe]

If the crack edges still touch, take a cotton swab dipped in acetone and from the back side clean the crack. Be careful not to get acetone on the front texture as it will remove the texture. Use crazy glue with the brush and coat only one side of the crack carefully. Align the two crack edges and wait one minute. This can create a seamless hardly noticble repair for less than $10. The acetone acts like a solvent used originally used in the plastic when it was molded. Do not repeat do not get acetone on the front it will soften and remove the texture.

Great tip thanks for sharing.

[DrewM]

Model glue, the good stuff that gets you high, works well, it works by basically melting the plastic together. Some crazy glues do the same thing, and many of the 'plastic' glues you see in a hobby store will as well. The JB Weld method above will work as well, but you could use a small piece of plastic in place of the sheet metal, substitute epoxy or any other glue for that matter. I'll go over the front side of the crack with some filler, just using my finger to push it into the crack and wipe everything else up, just so you see a small crack was there, paint over it and you will hardly notice the crack (basically you want to fill the crack as much as possible without having to sand it as you lose the texture).

[Jax Rhapsody]

That's what I was gonna say, model car glue(plastic cement) and a stronger piece of plastic will work like the jb weld/sheetmetal, plus my weigh less.

[slow84lx]

Plastics can be bonded back together with many different products. I would avoid any of the solvent type glues (model glue) if you have other options.

For instant bonds a Cyanocrylate glue, http://instantca.com/industrial-adhe...cyanoacrylate/ can net good results. Think Super Glue brand. This will set up quickly and hold many things very well. I would try to get some from an industrial supplier though and not use the Super Glue brand as it is not very strong in comparison. This type of glue can lose its bond in some cases.

For a permanent bond I prefer a methacrylate glue, http://instantca.com/methacrylate/. While more expensive you will have substrate failure before this glue breaks its bonds. It is a 2 part glue that requires a mixing tip and dispenser gun (you can use a cheap adapter + caulking gun). The glue is about $10 per tube, mixing tip $2, caulk gun adapter $5. This will require some available surface area (backing plate).

JBWeld fixes just about anything. I have no experience with it on plastics.

I would try to use another piece of similar plastic as reinforcing before going to metal backing plates. I would also do a test experiment on other panels made from the same material prior to bonding the piece to be repaired. Some glues work better on some materials than others. This is largely dependant on the base substrate. The Methacrylate I linked will work for bonding just about any plastic you will find in your fox.

Good luck fixing your plastic panels

[gr79]

Have had success quick fixing plastics with:
hot melt glue (cracked plastic trash hinge, lid and sides of another, snow shovel)
3M Plastic Emblem and Trim Adhesive (backup light lens)
RTV silicone
3M Plastic Structural Adhesive (wide front bumper crack under the marker light)

Pretty much have to reheat plastic (chemically or thermally) to really weld it.
Work on the back side as much as possible when appearance is important.