Could anyone tell me how tough it is and the steps to change the fuel sending unit in an 84 GT? Fuel gauge always reads "E" and wife gets nervous when she takes it out.
Thanks in advance.
Could anyone tell me how tough it is and the steps to change the fuel sending unit in an 84 GT? Fuel gauge always reads "E" and wife gets nervous when she takes it out.
Thanks in advance.
1984 GT 5sp, 5.0 vert
1987 Turbo "T" Limited
Its not that bad. Drive the car until it is almost empty, unbolt the filler neck from the side of the tank, remove the tank straps and lower the tank. Once the tank is out use a brass punch and hammer to rotate the lock ring for the sending unit. You may need a new rubber gasket for the filler neck when you reinstall it.
Mike
1986 ASCMclaren #108
stock short block, Victor EFI, 75mm TB, 3.08's, Borla cat-back, slot style MAF conversion, Gt-40p heads, TFS1 cam, 80lb injectors, 69mm turbo, Moates Quaterhorse, E85. 501/584 @ the rear wheels
Its is very easy unbolt the the fuel tank straps ,the fuel filler tube has a bracket unbolt that the fuel filler tube does not have to be removed from the car a little pulling on the tank and the tank will slide off the tube remove the fuel lines unplug the sending unit and remove the tank the sending unit has a ring that needs to be rotated hopefully its not rusted after removing ring the sending unit will come out. I would check the wiring expecially at the sending unit where it plugs into the chassis harness I had mine break right at the plug.
1984 Turbo GT, 5.0 swap , T-5, 5 lug, 8.8 3.27 gears ,92 front brake upgrade,
I have no problems with the prospect of changing the sending unit on my 78 Fairmont. However, I want to learn stuff along the way, and help get better at troubleshooting than guessing that it's the sending unit. Supposedly I can do an ohm test on the guage wire when the ignition is in 'on' position? Saw elsewhere (likely for a stang) that 12 ohms should be the reading? Is this accurate?
I mean honestly after 40 years, I'm guessing it's much more likely that a sending unit isn't functioning correctly rather than a gauge, but I also want to try to get better at my mechanical skills including the "throw parts at it" approach. Any help is welcome.
Curious why a "brass punch" for striking the locking ring? I have always used a big flat-head screwdriver with success.
Jason Smith
MCA #65481
'82 Capri RS Resto-Mod
'88 #400 Saleen Coupe "Mean Machine" Legal Guardian
'93 LX Yellow/Black Summer Feature - 2,800 Mile Original Survivor (Foxtoberfest 2019 Best Original 87-93)
'05 S-281 Mineral Grey
Brass doesn't cause Sparks. Sparks+vapors/fumes=boom.
I know in older Ford's you could ground the sending wire momentarily while having someone watch the gauge. If it swept completely over it wasn't a gauge or wiring issue but a sender issue. Be careful when doing this though if grounded for to long you'll let the smoke out of the IVR (Instrument Voltage Regulator).
Sorry I dug up an old thread as to not pollute the forums with yet another sending unit thread (trying first to search for one that answered my questions).
Not to sound like a brat here...but any help on my question? You guys responded to 9 year old questions (from 2009). They're still good bits of information, but I'm not sure those members will be checking back in soon
I probably should have started a new thread instead.
1/2 the time the float breaks off the gauge sending unit. Nothing to do with the electronics side at all. Then there are the situations where it is a mechanical part of the sender itself. Details were covered on testing the gauge.
Jason Smith
MCA #65481
'82 Capri RS Resto-Mod
'88 #400 Saleen Coupe "Mean Machine" Legal Guardian
'93 LX Yellow/Black Summer Feature - 2,800 Mile Original Survivor (Foxtoberfest 2019 Best Original 87-93)
'05 S-281 Mineral Grey
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