Passenger side frame rail damaged & radiator support!
Passenger side frame rail damaged & radiator support!
Last edited by 80streetsleep; 12-04-2012 at 12:19 AM.
Without pics and a more thorough description, it is impossible to help you any more than to say...
In general you will need to remove and replace the damaged frame rail and perhaps the inner structure, AFTER you have the car measured and analyzed at a competent frame shop, to determine of the remainder of the chassis has suffered unseen damage or warping.
On the hunt for a four eyed Notch or GT, preferably '84-86
'88 Turbo Coupe (In Progress)
'88 Thunderbird LX (SOLD)
'00 Mountaineer (SOLD)
'00 Mountaineer (Totaled)
'98 Explorer (SOLD)
'92 Tempo (SOLD)
'91 Probe (Destroyed)
'83 Ranger (SOLD)
Based on the detailed information given. I would estimate that will take 12.75 hours to repair @ $175/HR. Then you are looking at 1.5 qts of primer and that much paint. That is an expensive color so you are in the neighborhood of $150 just for the paint. The metal needed to replace that area is 3 sq/ft plus .4 hours on a frame straightening machine.
Hope that helps
Seriously though, welcome to FEP! This is a great source of people and information both. You should find anything you need here. Just post up some more information and pictures of what you need. Also you may consider posting in the Body Shop forum instead of the restoration since that seems to be your concern.
Last edited by homer302; 12-01-2012 at 09:36 AM.
Liberty once lost is lost forever.
John Adams
July 7, 1775
thanks for the help crazy, im new to the fox body world, so i would to have what & what?
thanks for looking crazy I'm new the fep world so what do need again?
If you can get a hold of any donor parts, it isn't that hard to replace either of these, basically just time consuming. I haven't messed with the rad support on ours, but we did replace a frame rail. Like was mentioned before, make sure to get some good numbers before starting anything. Here is the thread I made up when replacing my frame rail. It is one way to go about it.
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=123952
There are other members who have replaced frame rails in differing ways. Good luck with your car!!
84 LX convertible: 5.0 swap from a Lincoln Mark VII : 11/2011-11/2013 (Sold....)
My Baby-77 Cobra II-302 5 Speed
Welcome!
I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings but that much frame rail rust probably means a lot of rust elsewhere. Add on the fact the car's had a nasty bump in the corner, it may not be worth repairing as it will cost more to fix than to get a clean roller. Between the front end and the frame work, Homer is probably right. About $1500 just to fix the car in a shop. Half that to do it yourself.
But if you are up for the challenge, just grab the kit and go:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...ng-Frame-Rails
As others have mentioned, find a donor, cut the radiator support off on it and your car, providing extra body metal of about 2" on the donor. I would not recommend getting donor frame rails as they take more time cutting, and the chance of getting a rusty one is high after you cut. That adds to cleanup work for you also.
As you may have noticed, if you took the front bumper cover support off, it's most likely cracked, so expect to be digging in the yard for one of these also. They can be repaired, unless the stud sections are missing, which happens frequently.
Once you have your car measured and pulled, just do the rest of the work yourself. It's not that hard even with a hack saw, a grinder, and some naval jelly/acid wash. Hire your local traveling "home" welder on "the cheap", aka cash only, and they should be able to weld things in place once you cut, grind, and clean all the rusty parts and clamp the repair panels in place.
Good luck in your endeavor.
No longer visiting. Cheers.
Dude! Where were those when I was looking for both front frame rails for my '83?! Did LRS just recently produce those? I must have searched for days for new/OE/ repro frame rails and I just ended up getting a donor car that had mint rails. (Well, mint as in only a little surface rust to deal with, no rot) Oh well. At least I got the donor car for free.
It's not an easy task. Lots of cutting, grinding, fitting, welding, grinding welds, sealing, painting...
They came out May 2012, so if you did the work prior to that, they weren't around when you needed them.
There was someone on here selling replacement rail metal, but it was missing all the brackets and supplemental items in the kits.
Nice repair BTW!
No longer visiting. Cheers.
I somehow missed this thread earlier, but Johnate0 provided pretty decent pictures of the procedure. Like others in this thread, I was not aware of the reproduction frame rails available from LRS, but even these new pieces will just make the task a bit easier. As many have said before, there is simply nothing as good as factory sheetmetal. Yes, having reproduction sheet metal is a godsend, IF you simply have NO other option. However, if a decent donor is available, it is always going to be the preferred, albeit more time consuming, source of repair material. I looked at the LRS offerings and noticed that they currently do not reproduce the subframe braces or the "up frame" elbow, which also tends to rot.
I am also somewhat disappointed to find that there is no aftermarket source of floor pans, frame rails and other high demand sheet metal for other fox bodies, such as the Cougar, T-Bird, boxtops, zephers, etc. Several years ago, I had given significant consideration to establishing a business which would do nothing more than rebuild the shells of rotted fox bodies. What I mean by that is either an owner could send us his stripped shell and have us do all of the sheet metal work, salvage yard scrounging and chassis modifications or they could purchase complete repaired shells. Most people that I spoke to at the time, thought it was a great idea, but was something that most people simply would not pay for and thus the idea died on the vine.
On the hunt for a four eyed Notch or GT, preferably '84-86
'88 Turbo Coupe (In Progress)
'88 Thunderbird LX (SOLD)
'00 Mountaineer (SOLD)
'00 Mountaineer (Totaled)
'98 Explorer (SOLD)
'92 Tempo (SOLD)
'91 Probe (Destroyed)
'83 Ranger (SOLD)
We're starting to see more interest to fox bodies in general. This will encourage more sheet metal to appear.
Timing is always the thing. As more and more sheet metal is lost in the yards, the more interest there will be to have replacements made.
No longer visiting. Cheers.
This is a GREAT Thread! I thought of doing this before but never saw or heard of anyone doing it. I have a wreck I want to put a frame rail on.
NPD offers a full floor pan in their new catalog!!!!!!
Last edited by saleenjunky; 12-05-2012 at 11:41 AM.
Passenger side framerail rot near the sway bar mount is usually caused by a leaky battery. So I wouldn't be too concerned with the car not being straight. And the radiator support looks like a classic case of a tow operator not paying attention to what they are hooking to. I fixed both areas on my Capri. I fabricated the frame rail myself using 1/8" plate. I cut the lower radiator support out and fabricated my own duplicate box section on a bench and then cut it to size and welded it in. It's not concours by any means but it cost me maybe 20 bucks in materials to do.
86 Notch under construction
2011 4Runner Trail edition
2014 Suzuki V-Strom 650
Hahaha!! I started cutting the rails out of the '89 4cyl hatchback you see in my photo above around January. When I was made aware that donor car had been sitting under a tree for 9 years I held out no hope that the rails would be nice. Sure enough, I went to look at it, opened the hood and they were clean. The donor car has been a blessing. I've used all sorts of little odds and ends from it as I go along with this project.
This was shot just a few days ago. I am right now taking a break from fitting the aftermarket trunklid I bought and realizing that was a completely stupid rookie mistake. It fits like garbage. I'll do my best to see if I can get good lines but most likely I'll be searching for a decent shape used one.
Hey while we're talking frame rails, here's my right rear frame rail, before and after. Talk about some nasty work. Once I'm done with this fox I'm never doing a personal project car like this again.
Yikes. That's some fugly cancer right there. I would have passed on that challenge. You're a braver man than I.
No longer visiting. Cheers.
I was going to ask the same thing. I wonder if this is from the battery??
Good work by you guys!! Impressive body work and info!
Last edited by 79mustangcobra; 12-06-2012 at 10:34 AM.
1979 Mustang Cobra 5.0
2P Red and 1C Black
Stock never goes out of style
MCA #70281 - 79-93 MCA Concours Judge
Proverbs 3:5-6
My Mustang Story
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...71#post1688371
1979 Mustang Cobra 5.0
2P Red and 1C Black
Stock never goes out of style
MCA #70281 - 79-93 MCA Concours Judge
Proverbs 3:5-6
My Mustang Story
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...71#post1688371
1979 Mustang Cobra 5.0
2P Red and 1C Black
Stock never goes out of style
MCA #70281 - 79-93 MCA Concours Judge
Proverbs 3:5-6
My Mustang Story
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...71#post1688371
1979 Mustang Cobra 5.0
2P Red and 1C Black
Stock never goes out of style
MCA #70281 - 79-93 MCA Concours Judge
Proverbs 3:5-6
My Mustang Story
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...71#post1688371
1979 Mustang Cobra 5.0
2P Red and 1C Black
Stock never goes out of style
MCA #70281 - 79-93 MCA Concours Judge
Proverbs 3:5-6
My Mustang Story
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...71#post1688371
If any sheet metal, frame pieces, cross members of anything from an '85 will help you out, you're welcome to stop by and chop it out of my car. Free for the taking, glad to help out.
The car is located in Kingston, MA, not sure where you are.
TC
Hi,
Do you have any additional photos or a write up on how you replaced your rear frame rail? Did you damage or remove the torque box? Did you replace a partial portion of the rail or complete?
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