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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member Durango's Avatar
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    Default ''04 Camry V6 timing belt - WTF is this not working?

    UGH - I am not alway so friggin incompetent, really I'm not.

    Neighbors '04 Camry 3.0 V6 - water pump failed. Neighbor started to disassemble it, got in over his head and asked if I could help.

    That was mistake #1.

    So I order a gates timing belt / water pump kit from Rock Auto and get to work. Replace the pump, all the idlers and the tensioner from the kit. Line up the timing marks on the crank and heads to the belt, release the tensioner...

    Spin it over a couple times and recheck the marks - rear cam is not in line.

    Pull the tensioner, compress and reset it and all the marks. We're good. Spin again - NOPE, everythings effed up again.

    (repeat the above process a couple times, after rechecking the service manual and watching a couple youtube vids) - same result.

    It got cold and I was p*$$ed, so I called it a night. Checked the new timing belt against a known good belt and the alignment marks match, so it's not a mismarked belt.

    I'm completely out of ideas at this point. I've watched the belt while I'm turning it over and I don't see any slippage. Tension is good.
    1981 Durango (ends my 18 year drought of not owning a F/Z)

  2. #2
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    Is it only going off by 1 tooth, or several? Whenever I do a timing belt on a V6 Camry, I remove the upper idler between the am sprockets, and clamp the belt to the cam sprockets with clothes pins to hold the belt in position. This way I can move the cam sprocket either back or forth to get the belt over all the other pullies, then put the upper idler back on before I tension the belt. Does this engine have the tensioner vertically mounted at the bottom of the aluminum front cover, or horiziontal behind the PS pump bracket? If its the vertical style, I don`t bother to compress and pin the tensioner plunger, instead I just slowly tighten the 2 mounting bolts and allow the tensioner to compess the plunger as the housing moves up. With the horiziontal style, you have to compress and pin. I don`t know about your jobber timing belt, but with the factory belts we use, there is a yellow line to line up each cam timing mark, as well as a dotted line which lines up with a small dot on the crank gear, but the small dot is NOT what lines up with the crank gear to the aluminum front cover. Often the marks for the crank gear and front cover are hard to read. When you say it doesn`t align after turning the engine, do you mean the painted lines on the belt, or the actual marks on the sprockets and cover plates? The painted on marks will not match up after rotating the engine, but the stamped marks should. Also, I make sure the belt on the right side (toward the front grill) of the engine is tight before I release or tighten the tensioner, otherwise the belt can jump a tooth.Good luck.
    1978 Fairmont 2 door sedan, 428CJ 4speed. 9.972ET@132.54mph. 1.29 60 foot
    Replaced the FE big block with my 331/4 speed in my Fairmont, best 10.24ET @128 MPH.
    1985 Mustang LX hatchback NHRA Stock Eliminator 302 4 speed best in legal trim 12.31@107 mph, but has gone 11.42@115 with aftermarket intake, carb, and iron Windsor Jr. heads.New for 2012! 331 cube SB Ford, AFR 185 heads, solid flat tappet cam, pump gas; 10.296ET@128.71 mph, 1.37 60 foot.
    1979 Zephyr Z7, all original 302 auto, 2nd owner.

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member Durango's Avatar
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    I feel like such an idiot. I was thinking the marks on the belt needed to keep lining up - durrrr. The marks on the gears do still line up but something is not right - still won't start and about every 5th revolution the engine slows like it's hitting something.

    I'm afraid something is bent. Sure hope I didn't cause it.
    1981 Durango (ends my 18 year drought of not owning a F/Z)

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member
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    I`m not aware of any Toyotas with timing belts that are interferance engine, so I doubt that anything got bent. You said that the water pump failed, was it just leaking, or did it get bad enough that the timing belt jumped? If so, maybe the marks are not lined up correctly, they are fairly vauge, especially the rear cam sprocket marks are kinda buried . Are both cam dowel pins pointing straight up? Also, check to make sure that all the little teeth around the back of the crank gear are all in place, they are easy to break off if you pry the gear off.And make sure that all the sensor plugs are connected tightly.
    1978 Fairmont 2 door sedan, 428CJ 4speed. 9.972ET@132.54mph. 1.29 60 foot
    Replaced the FE big block with my 331/4 speed in my Fairmont, best 10.24ET @128 MPH.
    1985 Mustang LX hatchback NHRA Stock Eliminator 302 4 speed best in legal trim 12.31@107 mph, but has gone 11.42@115 with aftermarket intake, carb, and iron Windsor Jr. heads.New for 2012! 331 cube SB Ford, AFR 185 heads, solid flat tappet cam, pump gas; 10.296ET@128.71 mph, 1.37 60 foot.
    1979 Zephyr Z7, all original 302 auto, 2nd owner.

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member Durango's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcfairmont View Post
    Also, check to make sure that all the little teeth around the back of the crank gear are all in place, they are easy to break off if you pry the gear off.And make sure that all the sensor plugs are connected tightly.
    You totally called it. I didn't remove the gear or pry on anything, but I did find 3 broken teeth on the crank trigger wheel. I discovered this yesterday after checking the crankshaft position sensor connector to see if it was fouled with coolant. Didn't notice it earlier as when #1 is on TDC, the broken teeth are down, out of sight - covered by the belt.

    The missing teeth section is almost identical in size to the #1 TDC identifying tooth - I think that it may have been trying to fire #1 at the wrong time.

    It's weird. I didn't pry on it, didn't find any debris in the bottom of the timing cover and the metal where the broken teeth are is *not* shiny - like it broke off some time ago. I do not yet know if the MIL was on prior to this but the owner says it was running at the time he last drove it. Wondering if the ECM was able to compensate for the missing teeth by using the cam sensor as a backup and when I disconnected the battery I eliminated that learn and now it can't sync anything up to fire the coils properly...

    Oh well, found the problem - now to get a replacement gear. I do feel much better about myself - I was feeling pretty incompetent.
    1981 Durango (ends my 18 year drought of not owning a F/Z)

  6. #6
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    Good that you found the broken teeth, I wonder if the water pump got loose enough for the timing belt to come off the sprockets, maybe there was enough slop or debris to knock the teeth off. I`d take a close look at the crack sensor too, make sure it never got beat up when the teeth were getting knocked off. Keep us posted.
    1978 Fairmont 2 door sedan, 428CJ 4speed. 9.972ET@132.54mph. 1.29 60 foot
    Replaced the FE big block with my 331/4 speed in my Fairmont, best 10.24ET @128 MPH.
    1985 Mustang LX hatchback NHRA Stock Eliminator 302 4 speed best in legal trim 12.31@107 mph, but has gone 11.42@115 with aftermarket intake, carb, and iron Windsor Jr. heads.New for 2012! 331 cube SB Ford, AFR 185 heads, solid flat tappet cam, pump gas; 10.296ET@128.71 mph, 1.37 60 foot.
    1979 Zephyr Z7, all original 302 auto, 2nd owner.

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member Durango's Avatar
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    Checked the sensor - it appears fine. (I have a known good spare just in case) The gear had to be ordered and it probably won't be here until monday so I get a couple days off...
    1981 Durango (ends my 18 year drought of not owning a F/Z)

  8. #8

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    This will be the last time you volunteer......EVER. LOL.

    The next time you see him coming you are going to close the garage door and turn out the lights.

    Good Luck getting her going!
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member Durango's Avatar
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    The replacement crank gear arrived yesterday. Threw it on along wiith the belt and WE'VE GOT A RUNNER!

    Weather crapped out so we had to take the evening off and go to the indoor kart track for some therapy. I can still keep the 17 year old at bay, but my 21 year old got by me and I was relegated to second in both races.

    We'll finish buttoning it up after work today.
    Last edited by Durango; 11-21-2012 at 11:20 AM.
    1981 Durango (ends my 18 year drought of not owning a F/Z)

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member Durango's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    This will be the last time you volunteer......EVER. LOL.

    The next time you see him coming you are going to close the garage door and turn out the lights.

    Good Luck getting her going!
    Yeah, haha.

    Got it all buttoned up - idling in the driveway just fine. Took it for a drive and it got hot. Pulled over and the overflow bottle was spewing like Old Faithful.

    Got it cooled down and back in the driveway. On the way back it popped the MIL. Got 2 misfire codes - cyl #2 and #4. Pulled the plugs on those and they're cleaner than the third. I can see the tops of the pistons and #2 and #4 are considerably cleaner than #6. This does not look good.

    They did get it hot when the w/p failed. Time for a compression test.

    Edit: Compression test done - on the front three plugs anyway. Cyl 2 was about 140psi, Cyl 4 was 120 psi and cyl 6 was 180 psi. Left message with the guy to come and talk to me about the results.

    Head is going to have to come off. Best case = blown HG. Worst case = cracked head.
    Last edited by Durango; 11-25-2012 at 04:18 PM.
    1981 Durango (ends my 18 year drought of not owning a F/Z)

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member Bryan Knebworth's Avatar
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    oh dear...

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member Mustang Kid's Avatar
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    This is why I don't buy toyota
    -Sam
    1982 Mustang GL two hatchbacks, 3.3l and 5.0l
    1983 Capri RS Black Magic Ttop
    1984 Capri RS Sunroof
    1984 Mustang GT 'Vert
    1985 Mustang LX SSP CHP 8337
    1985 Mustang LX SSP CHP 8362
    1985 Mustang LX 3.8l 'Vert

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustang Kid View Post
    This is why I don't buy toyota
    Somewhat of an ignorant statement there. Nothing wrong with the car as designed really. It's the owner that didn't do the maintenance and then overheated it as a result that's the problem. Could have been any kind of car.
    86 Notch under construction

    2011 4Runner Trail edition
    2014 Suzuki V-Strom 650

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustang Kid View Post
    This is why I don't buy toyota


    Any Motor with ALum head will warp/crack in overheat condition. My sister did it to er 80's escort twice.
    1983 GLX vert
    88 roller motor
    Intake/Exhaust/Underdrives/Turbocoupe t5
    13.79 @ 96.29 1.86 60'

    1986 Mustang Gt
    95 longblock w/smog bumps removed/TFS1 cam/Explorer intake/Hedman Long tubes/Mac catback 252hp/311tq
    .
    13.05@102.55

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