Close



Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 35
  1. #1

    Default 86 gt driving me insane

    I had some issues about 2 weeks ago where at about 3500 rpm it would start bucking and dieing out as long as i held the gas. RReplaced o2 sensors and it seamed to clear it up. On the way to work today it started again. Much worse. Now under any heavy throttle after 2500 rpm it stops accelerating completly. Wont even pull hard enough to shift. Let it cool down and it runs great untill it gets back up to operating temp.then it starts again. Fuel pressure was fine last weekend when i checked. Took it to the shop and its trowing no codes. Mass air flow sensore SHOULD be good its 3 weeks old. As is i cant even safely pass a slow car at 45mph. As soon as it downshifts it losses all power and bucks. Also the fuel pump is less than 6 months old. Filter is new as of last week. ....

  2. #2

    Default

    sounds like an ignition module problem.

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member TWR2003's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Eastern MA
    Posts
    2,838

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pheonixxx1987 View Post
    Took it to the shop and its trowing no codes. Mass air flow sensore SHOULD be good its 3 weeks old.
    No codes means something is wrong the way you are testing. If all is OK you should get a code 11 which is 'System Pass' both on KOEO and KOER tests. Be certain you do KOEO and KOER tests.

    Did your problems start before or after you replaced the MAF sensor? It the replacement MAF stock or aftermarket?
    MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
    EF: Im shootin' pool Fats. When I miss you can shoot.

  4. #4

    Default

    The maf is a 89 replacement. Just had orielys auto part match the parts number seeing as my car didnt come with one. Problem started before then. Also the ecu isnt factory. Has an adapter for my maf. Both installed by ford in the early 90s. Have the paperwork on it. Im the second owner of the car. Original owner said he took it back to ford and told them its too slow. Had them do a lot to it. I didnt test it myself. Lack of time. The shop i took it to said no codes were present. Also noticed when it start acting up smells like its running rich.

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Texas Hillcountry
    Posts
    502

    Default

    TFI ignition module would be my guess as well. had a similar problem and that fixed it. did not show any codes when i had the problem either.

  6. #6

    Default

    After much searching...be surprised how hard it is to find one in this town. Had to drive a town over to buy one. Orielys had one accel ignition module left. 175$ Better be worth it lol. Ill find out after work if thats what it was

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member TWR2003's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Eastern MA
    Posts
    2,838

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pheonixxx1987 View Post
    The shop i took it to said no codes were present. Also noticed when it start acting up smells like its running rich.
    Take it back. Tell them they couldnt hit a bull in the butt with a bass fiddle....
    MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
    EF: Im shootin' pool Fats. When I miss you can shoot.

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member TWR2003's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Eastern MA
    Posts
    2,838

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pheonixxx1987 View Post
    After much searching...be surprised how hard it is to find one in this town. Had to drive a town over to buy one. Orielys had one accel ignition module left. 175$ Better be worth it lol. Ill find out after work if thats what it was
    For the sake of your $$$ I hope it is too but the truth is it could be many things. You need to do more testing before you throw alot of $$$ at it. That is why you are going 'insane'.

    Good luck
    T
    MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
    EF: Im shootin' pool Fats. When I miss you can shoot.

  9. #9

    Default

    Get it up to operating temp., install a vacuum gauge to a good vacuum source, observe the gauge reading at idle, now slowly bring the RPMs up to 2000. If the vacuum drops below what it was at idle (it should go up), I would suspect an exhaust restriction.

    Also, drop the exhaust pipes down, at the headers, and see if that cures your problem with a road test.

  10. #10

    Default

    Im sure its not exhaust problems. Had everything from the headers back off last weekend. Rust damage. Flowmasters and new pipes now. No cats. Great to live in a state with no inspection lol.

  11. #11

    Default

    Yea i know. I hate to keep throwing money like that but from lack of time and experiance to be honest i have been. The car is a yr older than me. Ive worked in shops for most my life but have very little experiance with older cars. Aside from tune ups transmission work and rear ends, ive done little with a distributer style ignition. Thats why i signed up here. Being a process of elimination and im outta ideas.

  12. #12

    Default

    Also forgot to mention that it comes and goes...

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member TWR2003's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Eastern MA
    Posts
    2,838

    Default

    YOU need to do the KOEO and KOER tests. You can do it - it is not that complicated. You do NOT need a fancy code reader. You need a test light or a analog voltmeter. Go this link for detailed info:

    http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=2471.0

    Let us know if you have any questions
    Good luck
    T
    MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
    EF: Im shootin' pool Fats. When I miss you can shoot.

  14. #14

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TWR2003 View Post
    Take it back. Tell them they couldnt hit a bull in the butt with a bass fiddle....
    Figured out y no codes were present. The single connector is missing the actual metal piece inside the plastic connection. 26 yrs of corrosion holds it together. Gonna snip one off at the scrap yard in the morning then prob tell them a lot more than that

  15. #15
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Pittston PA
    Posts
    223

    Default

    Try a tfi they are like 12 bucks

  16. #16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MMAracer View Post
    Try a tfi they are like 12 bucks
    I need to move where ever you are. Here the cheapest one you can find is at orielys. 45$ and has to be ordered. Motorcraft brand is 140$ replaced fuel pump. Just the pump for 80$ anything for this car is a pain to find here for some reason

  17. #17

    Default

    Code 11. Is all im getting.

  18. #18

    Default

    reset codes...got 23 and 94...outta time this weekend. Gotta go back to work...getting a tps and and converter clutch solenoid. Might as well service the tranny while im under it

  19. #19
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Nampa ID 83686
    Posts
    4,923

    Default

    Code 23 - Throttle sensor out of range or throttle set too high

    Code 94 - AIR system inoperative
    Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem

    Information above found at:
    http://www.muscularmustangs.com/test2.php

    The link above can be found at:
    http://www.muscularmustangs.com/test1.php
    This link contains some good info you want to review also.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
    2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
    Buyer/Seller Experience Link
    Build Thread
    The Four-Eyed Game - 2018 Version

  20. #20

    Default

    Also thought has crossed my mind to change to a 5 speed....

  21. #21

    Default

    I had the same problem replaced with a quality tps and both bucking and throtle surge disappeared

  22. #22
    FEP Super Member TWR2003's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Eastern MA
    Posts
    2,838

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pheonixxx1987 View Post
    reset codes...got 23 and 94...outta time this weekend. Gotta go back to work...getting a tps and and converter clutch solenoid. Might as well service the tranny while im under it
    Did you do both KOEO and KOER tests? Before you replace anything do KOEO and KOER and get a all codes and record. CLEAR codes. Drive car 10-20 miles minimum. Re-do KOEO and KOER tests and see if codes come back or not.
    MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
    EF: Im shootin' pool Fats. When I miss you can shoot.

  23. #23

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TWR2003 View Post
    Did you do both KOEO and KOER tests? Before you replace anything do KOEO and KOER and get a all codes and record. CLEAR codes. Drive car 10-20 miles minimum. Re-do KOEO and KOER tests and see if codes come back or not.
    Yep. Redid several times. Checked wires. Test drove again. Rechecked,removed tps. Cleaned it. Drove and checked again. Same codes every time after being cleared. Also looks like the factory tps. Dry rotted and cracked

  24. #24
    FEP Super Member TWR2003's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Eastern MA
    Posts
    2,838

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pheonixxx1987 View Post
    Yep. Redid several times. Checked wires. Test drove again. Rechecked,removed tps. Cleaned it. Drove and checked again. Same codes every time after being cleared. Also looks like the factory tps. Dry rotted and cracked
    OK. You did right. We just want to make sure you did that before spending $$. After you get the new one in clear codes and re-run KOEO and KOER to be certain code 23 is gone. You may also want to do a base idle reset (or at least read thru this):

    http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,1031

    I would skip cleaning the TB. Really you just want to be sure the closed throttle voltage between DGRN/LGRN (Green) and BLK/WHT (Black) at the TPS is between 0.7 and 1.0 VDC with KOEO. EEC-IV will do the rest.

    T
    MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
    EF: Im shootin' pool Fats. When I miss you can shoot.

  25. #25

    Default

    Thanks everyone yet again. Was the tps. Now i have a rather unusual question....the car has been repainted and the front clip repaired. First owner rear ended someone. Nothing out the ordanary i noticed at first. Untill ive been working on it as much as i have. A buddy of mine has a 86 gt identical to mine...at least its spose to be....he was the first to point out the differences under the hood. First thing is the odd amount of ford motorsport logos. Stamped on aluminum valve covers. On the heads. Timing cover, also the ecm with the same logo and the maf adapter. Got us looking carefully. His is a 5 speed mines a auto. But i have a factory shift light in the dash. Why? As with most my buddys he wanted to race. Wasnt even a race. I had him by 4 car lengths before 60 mph and stayed pulling away. At 45mph i can turn her sideways no probs now that shes running right. When we got back he parked beside me and i immediately noticed mine sits about 2 inches lower than his. Strangest thing came when i outran an acquaints 95 trans am 6 speed chipped headers intake ect. Not that im complaining but i was under the influence that my stang was bone stock. Im the second owner. First owner failed to mention anything besided "she'll fly be careful"

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •