82 cougar project

[blake4591]

Well I guess it's about time to start this.

Allow me to introduce project "senior year" since I will soon be starting my senior year of college.

The car is an 82 cougar wagon that is currently 100 percent stock that I was given to get it out off my grandparents yard.

The plan is to add the following to it:
- 1984 2.3 turbo motor
- Mega-squirt ECU
- 87 to 93 4 cylinder T-5
- 5.0 K-member
- SN95 steering Rack
- SN95 spindles (94-95 versions)
- PBR calibers and master cylinder from the same car
- The LTD gas tank and sending unit that works with the dash
- Walbro 255 intake
- New fuel and brake lines
- SN 95 rear axle

I think that's all of the major components but I probably missed something.
Right now I'm just looking to see if anyone sees any problems with my plan and or tips to help me out. I'll post up some pictures as things start moving along.

Blake

[Turbo-Box]

Sounds like a cool project!

[Greywolf]

Read Maximum Motorsports' article on the 94-95 vs 96+ spindles in Fox cars. Not a deal-breaker here but the steering angles are affected and you should be aware of it. It may not bother you, or you may choose to correct/alter them; mainly it's a "bump-steer" issue which has minimal effect for casual driving.

Also expect to play with a few different rim offsets and tire sizes before you get something you're truly happy with; it's part clearance and part personal preference.

All-in-all, though, sounds like a good project and well thought out. You'll spend more time getting the Megasquirt tuned where you like it, than on the stuff I mentioned there.

Where are you located?

[75coug]

Fantastic project. Let's see the "before" pics.

[Dean_T]

If you use the Sn95 steering rack you will need a hybrid steering shaft adapter/link. If you use the unit from an Sn95 Mustang your steering wheel will be off 90 degrees. Unless the '82 Cougar has splinded steering wheel shaft then it's not an issue, you can reclock the steering wheel and carve a new alignment mark on the shaft.

Cool project!

Dean T

[blake4591]

The best I can do for before pictures right now is here
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showpost...&postcount=146

Or Pictures of the 2.3 being rebuilt once I get home.

I'm currently living in Flint, MI and the car is at home in Pittsburgh until I go pick it up in a week or two.

I read the MM article and then spent some time thinking about exactly how the steering and arms interact and finally called the junk yard to see if they had some 94-95 spindles. They do and they actually know that they are different than the 96+ version so I'll go back and get those.

I knew that the steering shaft was different and for now I'll just live with the wheel being turned 90°. Probably get some weird looks from passengers too. lol Once it starts to bother me I'll probably replace the steering wheel with an aftermarket one (the original has a lot of big cracks in it and I don't have much hope for finding one in good condition)

[Floyd]

That is a very cool project. Dunno how many they made, but there sure ain't a whole lot left on the road! Good luck

[blake4591]

Well I made some progress today. Just about the whole engine is clean and ready to go back together and get some paint. Plans are also being made to pick up the car this weekend.

Pictures include the valve cover in primer, the block cleaned and decreased, the rest of the motor laying allover the garage and the pistons drying after being denastified.

[blake4591]

Well I went and picked up the car this weekend, it handled the 320 mile trip beautifully and the cruise control still works even after sitting for roughly ten years (last time it was inspected in PA was 2003).

The engine is mostly together and plans are being made for a lot of work to get done with the holiday coming up. I'll get some pictures up tomorrow.

Also there have been some changes. The 2001 master cylinder wont work, Ford changed the mounting stud in 1996. The fuel tank swap is going to have to wait since I got a deal on a walbro 255l inline pump so that'll go in for now.

[dburdyshaw]

I'm looking forward to updates. I luv wagons.

[blake4591]

So updates have been lacking a little because I've been working on the car nonstop. The drive-train is out, the engine bay is almost done being painted and the engine is almost completely together

All the parts are collected except for a couple small things that will get ordered tomorrow.

I've got a couple of questions though.

First what does the yellow 12v hot wire going in through the passenger side firewall go to? My guess is blower motor but I'm not sure and I need to know if I need to hook it up back up or not.

Second is there any cheap way to mount several relays I'm thinking I'm going to be adding at least 5 (keyed power on, fuel pump, fan, low and high beams) and fuses to go with them and I'd like a factory looking mounting method.

Third could I use the factory fuel supply ling as the new return line its in much better shape than i thought it was has anybody done this before?

Fourth will the T-5 fit in the trans tunnel without hammering on it, I've seen both that it won't and that it will what's the right answer?



I hate to be lazy about looking this stuff up but honestly im tied and its easier to just ask.

Some more before pictures and the car coming up and over the K member and drive-train.

[blake4591]

only allowed five pictures on a post so here are some more

About half way through stripping all the rust spots, spray on rust reformer it works surprisingly well, engine bay in primer its already got one coat of black but it was dark by the time i was done painting engine just needs valve cover and some small other things and since it might ran tonight i threw the kiddy pool over the hood to try to keep to much water from getting into the freshly painted engine bay.

[blake4591]

got pedals in and some other small stuff done today

[blake4591]

Second is there any cheap way to mount several relays I'm thinking I'm going to be adding at least 5 (keyed power on, fuel pump, fan, low and high beams) and fuses to go with them and I'd like a factory looking mounting method.

Fourth will the T-5 fit in the trans tunnel without hammering on it, I've seen both that it won't and that it will what's the right answer?

answered these myself.

resolved mounting of relays, will be going to an explorer power distribution box when i put the mega-squirt in.

Fits just fine drive shaft is the right length too, will have to cut the spot weld on the trans cross member to side it back some though.

[blake4591]

still making progress, no good pictures though because right now is brake lines and other stuff under the car. will hopefully have engine back in this weekend.

[blake4591]

I'll be mounting the fuel pump tomorrow and I was wondering where would be the best place to put the inline pump. I was either thinking of bolting in to the passenger frame rail just in front of the rear axle or to the cargo floor so it would be just above the axle fuel tank area (About where this pump is but higher up http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c2..._assembly1.jpg ). I know the electric pumps don't like to have to pull fuel so I was looking to see if anyone had ever had any problems with using either of these locations.

Thanks, Blake

[xctasy]

Howdy Blake. I love this post, two of my favorite engines right there, the EAO Corporate Pinto/Lima OHC and the old I6.

As a partial side matter, if you still have the old six banger nearby, can you (if you can spare the time) confirm the starter postion, engine rocker cover color, the decal on the rocker cover? Maybee diff tag details.

Looks like you have the C5 auto matic and the starter motor details. I assume the old lump was a B-code CJ232AA engine decal Grey Low Mount 3.3 with C5 auto, sort of like the next year X-code 1983 engine on the left photo. I've got a blue IJ204,which were also used on base models, but even though the engines had the same emissions calibration, they were all had different blocks and funny crap going on with the diffs and gearboxes.



Since 2006, I've been looking for a 164 tooth flexplate and lock -up torque converter, separator plate, the starter motor PN, it's bellhousing adaptor if separate, and a column shift and kickdown lever, park brake. Some of that stuff wasn't always the same on 1982 Fox cars, so I generally make a pest of myself and ask some funny questions when anyone ditches there I6 for a Turbo or V8.

I'm real familar with the early 80's Cougar/Fairmont CJ232 engine, one guy from a Turbo Fox forum did a little work on those old boat anchors, shoved a T3 on it and did 13.5 ET's back in 2005, and your engine looks like the spittin image. Although his was a bit passe after 25 pounds of boost, the your transmission and block sure look the same

See http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=24859

Oh yeah, wot waz your diff tag, was it an old 2.73:1 7.5" diff.

WGX-NX 9C12
2.73 75V 275A, perhaps?

Lookes like you'll be bucket seating and doing a centre handbrake Mustang style for the T5.

Now, back onto the 2.3 build up, your gonna love the machine. These old beasts are so much fun to work on, Ford really did some smart stuff with the subframe, steering and diff combos over the years, makes it so easy to pop in a 175 hp or more engine for just a few bucks.

[blake4591]

Yeah the Inline is the low mount gray CJ232 motor. I'm assuming it is a C5 since it looks the same as a C4 but is the same length as a T5 and it is a 7.5" 2.73 ratio diff.

I've read over that thread before and was close to putting a turbo on it but decided not to bother with the old inline mostly because I hated the automatic (WOT shifts where 3900 rpm)

I'm planning on keeping the bench for now test of the trans looks like there is enough room at least.

[blake4591]

What I can make out on the diff tag

WCX Z 2F25 Might be WGX Z 2F25
_73 7 5 T842B

[blake4591]

I just got the struts and spindles in today. Steering rack went in yesterday I'll post some pictures when I take a break from working on the car.

[xctasy]

Yeah the Inline is the low mount gray CJ232 motor. I'm assuming it is a C5 since it looks the same as a C4 but is the same length as a T5 and it is a 7.5" 2.73 ratio diff.

I've read over that thread before and was close to putting a turbo on it but decided not to bother with the old inline mostly because I hated the automatic (WOT shifts where 3900 rpm)

4000 rpm for my C3 equiped 1981 Mustang, Warp Factor 9 Captain. Spelt Gray wrong...as if 10 years on American Ford forums hadn't helped me understanda de Enkgrish. Solly

I'm planning on keeping the bench for now test of the trans looks like there is enough room at least.

What I can make out on the diff tag

WCX Z 2F25 Might be WGX Z 2F25
_73 7 5 T842B

Cool, thanks very much for the info, its just that I am doing a 3.73/AOD upgrade, and need the C5 stuff and probably just a 7.5" diff with a 3.45 ratio swap. I don't need the weight of an Explorer diff but my XLT has a 3.73:1 8.8 diff but there are no 3.73 7.5" around. I have in the past done harbour work devanning IFL containers from Baltimore and Cali down here in Dunedin NZ, just not sure if its better to spring for transport to Crompton in LA where my nearest export base is. I've been waiting 9 years on Ford Six for feeback on a 164 teeth C5 flexplate part number, its not that they are slack, its just that no-one in their right mind does I6 modifications, not when any 5.0 or 2.3 Turbo EFI start at over 145 and seldom is a trans separated from an I6 Ford...whats a big bell C5 gonna fit to when the top two bolts are in the wrong place for a V8?

I'll keep it touch and PM you. I'm itchin to fit my ex 4.9 EFI AOD, got it imported in 2004 for my first company project, an I6 to small block/250 bellhousing adaptor.

[blake4591]

Well engine and trans are finally in. They didn't put up to much of a fight since the engine bay is big enough to get in with a 2.3 and put it where it needs to be.

First picture is what happens when you can't get the engine hoist high enough to go over the rad support.

[blake4591]

Does anyone know what to wires need to be jumped for the park/neutral switch? I have four wires going to the trans and I'm assuming two of them need jumped to override the park/ neutral switch.

[Andfab99]

Does anyone know what to wires need to be jumped for the park/neutral switch? I have four wires going to the trans and I'm assuming two of them need jumped to override the park/ neutral switch.

I have enjoyed reading your build. The NSS wires should be red with a blue stripe. The other two wires are for the back up lights. I would use the switch on the clutch pedal and not jump the wires. You wouldn't want to accidentally
start the car in gear.

[blake4591]

I have enjoyed reading your build. The NSS wires should be red with a blue stripe. The other two wires are for the back up lights. I would use the switch on the clutch pedal and not jump the wires. You wouldn't want to accidentally
start the car in gear.

Thanks, but just to confirm is it going to be red with a blue strip at the trans? I have the clutch position switch in the car but I haven't hooked it up yet; I'm mostly concerned about the wires at the trans that will need jumped to simulate the gear selector being in park or neutral to start the car.