just picked up an unmolested 84 Turbo GT, have a few questions

[Spoolin']

In case any ones following this, i got it running good! New tank with new fuel installed. Such a fun car!

unfortunately, the fuel neck seal is leaking and the gas gauge reads incorrect, the tank was out of an 89...

i also replaced the sway bar bushings and repaired the rag joint, both were totally shot, and made the poor thing ride like ****. next up is that damn shifter bushing.
But still, what an amazing car, it even handles the snow pretty decent! At least better than my ;91 does!

Time for pictures!
baaaad fuel:


You cant see it, but theres about a quarter to half cup of rust in that.

Nice rag joint, yeah?


Front end had a bit of body roll haha.


All waxed up!

[MAPSVO]

Try to save that old fuel sender from the original tank, they are made from unobtanium. You will need it to get the fuel gauge working correctly.

I really like the picture of the car all waxed up. I have one exactly the same color and interior, only mine is in about a million parts right now. I have all the interior stuff done and the engine and tranny is overhauled and waiting to be put back in. I am in the process of doing work on the lower door skins now.

I am going to put the same wheels back on only I am thinking about having the faces polished. I think that copper will look good with brighter wheels. The ones in the pic are on my turbo conv and have been refinished, they are fairly bright but if they were polished they would look better maybe. I have a spare set to experiment on so we will see.

Anyway that is a nice looking car!

[homer302]

I missed this update somehow! Great that you got it running. I know the feeling! Great to hear the progress and she looks great shined up.
I have a used 87-93 tank in mine too. It was clean as a whistle. Fired right up after I installed that. THat won't make the gauge read off though. I know you said you had a Topaz sender on the way. That will be your fix. Fortunately I got mine to start working again and so far it's been fine. I also did the NAPA rag joint for $11. Yeah, I know that MM sells a shaft that is a better performance solution but not for $11 they don't. I was on a budget and I can drive it and it's safe!
So what is the latest?

[Spoolin']

Well, it's been a while since i posted in this thread, but i've since done many many things.

• Replaced cracked Cyl Head with later model, had local shop install ranger roller kit and do a valve job, mill.
• Replaced Green Top fuel injectors with Brown Tops, after 3 of 4 were found to be leaking
• Replaced cracked turbo manifold with late model cast manifold
• Replaced Radiator
• Replaced water pump
• Replaced thermostat with 192* (factory is 195*?)
• Installed manual boost controller between turbo outlet and wastegate actuator
• Replaced rail (high psi.) fuel pump with bosche O.E. equivalent.
• Replaced I.A.C. valve
• Cleaned VAM with throttle body cleaner
• Cleaned throttle body with 2+2 (i was "in a jam"..)

I've been having some issues however...

1. Often, when letting off the throttle after i get up to speed after coming from light, it dies, just straight stops running like i turned off the key.
   I'm thinking TPMS?
2. accompanying this sudden death syndrome, more often than not (but less frequently, lately) i'll get an idle fluctuation. sometime it will stall, as well.
   
   
3. The car does not warm up, no mater how long i drive it. It will get warm if i let it sit i the driveway and run, but as soon as i start driveing it, it goes all the way to cold. i've eve n blocked some of the radiator with cardboard, no change. it's worth noting i used a thermostat that is only 3 degree's cooler than stock, to prevent overheating, but would that really make it run THAT cold? I also used an Airtex water pump that claimed to have better than stock flow. The entire cooling system is now new, aside from upper and lower rad hose, including the heater core. Also, heat is weak, agreeing with what the guage is saying.

Look forward to some advice!

In case anyone is wondering, next mods in line include a larger VAM and computer to go with it. anything else suggested?

[Spoolin']

Dat Turbine...




Pictures!

All the fun, none of the work!

No compression Cyl. 2, weak Cyl.3 as well....
Here we go:





All striped down:



cracked-ass manifold off:





I didn't expect it to be so... colorful:





That's rough lookin' gasket..

speaking of...


Hmm, i thought i emptied the coolant...






POP!


Time for Reassembly!

Finally! an uncracked core!




Back from the machine shop & bolted on; ranger-rollered, valve jobbed, milled, etc.:







Since all i do all day is turn wrenches, i figured i'm doing this head job at home, i might as well invite some friends over.My buddy brought along hisgirlyfriend.

Here She is puttin' in some exhaust manifold bolts:




Yes, she is a tech as well. really made my dad's buddies day!


Home stretch!


Just gotta torque the cam gear, valve cover, timing belt and accessories and so forth.


All done.

...for now

[moelll]

Sounds like your thermostat failed open already. If i were you, just get a stant o.e. replacement

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[In2Fords]

looking good man, are you running stock gauges? If so its time to put in some accurate gauges and monitor water temp,oil pressure and AFR. If your temps get to high or you cant see the temp rise and fall then you know you have problems, you have to watch your oil pressure to make sure its not to high and blowing out your turbo seal and its allways a good idea to watch your fuel ratio so you aren't cracking your fresh head.

[Spoolin']

Sounds like your thermostat failed open already. If i were you, just get a stant o.e. replacement

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yeah. That's what I kinda figured...

[Spoolin']

looking good man, are you running stock gauges? If so its time to put in some accurate gauges and monitor water temp,oil pressure and AFR. If your temps get to high or you cant see the temp rise and fall then you know you have problems, you have to watch your oil pressure to make sure its not to high and blowing out your turbo seal and its allways a good idea to watch your fuel ratio so you aren't cracking your fresh head.

s


well, I would like the increased accuracy, I don't want to clutter my interior with guages everywhere... I was thinking if somehow putting an AFR display in the slot for the overboost warning, and oil pressure on the dash seems great. Also, temp guage seems to work pretty well...

[rogelioifmradio]

Well, it's been a while since i posted in this thread, but i've since done many many things.

• Replaced cracked Cyl Head with later model, had local shop install ranger roller kit and do a valve job, mill.
• Replaced Green Top fuel injectors with Brown Tops, after 3 of 4 were found to be leaking
• Replaced cracked turbo manifold with late model cast manifold
• Replaced Radiator
• Replaced water pump
• Replaced thermostat with 192* (factory is 195*?)
• Installed manual boost controller between turbo outlet and wastegate actuator
• Replaced rail (high psi.) fuel pump with bosche O.E. equivalent.
• Replaced I.A.C. valve
• Cleaned VAM with throttle body cleaner
• Cleaned throttle body with 2+2 (i was "in a jam"..)

I've been having some issues however...

1. Often, when letting off the throttle after i get up to speed after coming from light, it dies, just straight stops running like i turned off the key.
   I'm thinking TPMS?
2. accompanying this sudden death syndrome, more often than not (but less frequently, lately) i'll get an idle fluctuation. sometime it will stall, as well.
   
   
3. The car does not warm up, no mater how long i drive it. It will get warm if i let it sit i the driveway and run, but as soon as i start driveing it, it goes all the way to cold. i've eve n blocked some of the radiator with cardboard, no change. it's worth noting i used a thermostat that is only 3 degree's cooler than stock, to prevent overheating, but would that really make it run THAT cold? I also used an Airtex water pump that claimed to have better than stock flow. The entire cooling system is now new, aside from upper and lower rad hose, including the heater core. Also, heat is weak, agreeing with what the guage is saying.

Look forward to some advice!

In case anyone is wondering, next mods in line include a larger VAM and computer to go with it. anything else suggested?

hi! in the thermostat isue i installed in my svo a similar thermostat as well and the car never gets warm, but heater works fine so i asume the engine has the right heat despite of what the temp gauge says

[chalkysexplorer]

Nice car, just came across this thread. If the engine isn't getting warm it's a locked open thermostat or a bad gauge. Easy to tell, if the car gets warm just sitting, easy to tell by heat from vents, then cools down as soon as you start to move, it's the thermostat. Just had the same issue with my '93 LX 2.3L. Thermostat was locked open. 10 minutes to fix, voila, warm air

Something to ask, when you did the fuel pump did you change the fuel filter?? Didn't see it mentioned and can cause some funky issues on the turbo 4's.

[chalkysexplorer]

oh, one more thing, if you've got a manual boost controller, get a decent boost gauge or you'll have that head off again really quickly!!! Also, not sure of the stock boost level of a turbo GT, 10psi????, but SVO's an TC's can only really run higher boost levels safely because of the intercoolers. HTH

[Spoolin']

Chalky: yes its exactly as described, new thermo, coming up.


also, I've had about 4 new filters in with the whole fuel system resto.

[Gemini1999]

I thought that I had read some previous comments here at FEP that Turbo GT's ran cool like that, but if not, mine has the same problem as the OP. It runs cool - almost all the way to the Cold end of things unless the car sits at a light, or is parked with the engine running for a few minutes. Once you start driving, the temperature goes all the way down again. Granted, I don't even know if the cooling fan works with this kind of condition, but if a bad thermostat is responsible, when I get the heater core swapped out, a new thermostat will go in as well.

[chalkysexplorer]

The other thing to bear in mind that the fuel enrichment tables, or choke for a better word, are controlled by ECU depending on engine temperature. If your engine isn't warming up correctly your fuel economy will suck and you'll never pass an emissions test.

[In2Fords]

My 2.3T stays right at 195 at all times on 2 different aftermarket gauges, if you sit there and watch the gauges it will fluctuate 5-10 degrees for a moment while the thermo opens and flushes out the hot water.
I am using a mechanical fan and stock single core radiator with a 195 degree thermo.

[Spoolin']

Nice, well ill be sure to let you guys know what happens when I pop that in there.

No wonder I've been getting worse milage than my 5.0 haha, I kinda figures it had to be something like that.


No ideas on the stalling? Defective IAC?? Its been doing it since the moment input the new one on there. The old one would stick open, so I replaced it. Never had a stalling problem before that, just an idle race.

[chalkysexplorer]

Another thing to check, the ball on the throttle body that the accelerator cable attaches to can can wear to a flat spot that will hold idle higher and will rectify with a blip of the throttle. Easy test, put a small dab of grease on the ball, job done.

You may also want to check your TPS settings. Here's an interesting read for you. http://www.svocop.com/Articles/3/index.html

[dznj]

Another thing to check, the ball on the throttle body that the accelerator cable attaches to can can wear to a flat spot that will hold idle higher and will rectify with a blip of the throttle. Easy test, put a small dab of grease on the ball, job done.

You may also want to check your TPS settings. Here's an interesting read for you. http://www.svocop.com/Articles/3/index.html

I'm not going to hijack this thread, but I'm tempted to dig out my SVO from under cover/hibernation to check for this. Been chasing a hanging idle all darn summer!

D

[Spoolin']

Okay, so I tested the TPS, I have 5v at the green Reference , but that's it. Nothing else. Orange wire nothing, black wire nothing (that should be ground, yes?)


This seems to me like it would cause the ECU to just default to part-throttle at all times, right? Therefore it will stall and just run kinda crappy?

I'm sure replacing the TPS and the stuck open t-stat is gonna solve a few drivability concerns... The weekend can't come soon enough!

[dznj]

Okay, so I tested the TPS, I have 5v at the green Reference , but that's it. Nothing else. Orange wire nothing, black wire nothing (that should be ground, yes?)


This seems to me like it would cause the ECU to just default to part-throttle at all times, right? Therefore it will stall and just run kinda crappy?



I'm sure replacing the TPS and the stuck open t-stat is gonna solve a few drivability concerns... The weekend can't come soon enough!

That can't be good! I found my SVO to be sensitive on the low side. Must be below 1 volt at idle AFTER adjusting the base idle. With NOTHING on the orange wire, the ECU is effectively blind to the throttle position.

[Spoolin']

The orange:



The Green:


NADA. Yes, i made sure I was touching copper


And the black:



The test light I have should light up green on ground, I think? It may just be because the sensor is bad, though I think.


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[Spoolin']

Err sorry make that orange 5v ref, nothing on green, nothing on black. Will edit this all out when I get to a comp

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[Spoolin']

Okay, so apparently the TPS is obsolete?! I asked for number E5FZ-9B989C, and was told that neither Napa (which we use for just about everything) or Ford could get it. Uhh.. Help??

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[Gemini1999]

Okay, so apparently the TPS is obsolete?! I asked for number E5FZ-9B989C, and was told that neither Napa (which we use for just about everything) or Ford could get it. Uhh.. Help??

Check this one out:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281067854502...84.m1423.l2649