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  1. #1

    Default Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

    Hi everyone - I am replacing the oil pan gasket without removing/raising the engine. I have discovered that it is, in fact, impossible to clear the oil pickup with a single piece gasket without raising the engine and creating clearance between the pan and the sump. I have torn the single piece gasket right at the driver front main seal corner:

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    I am thinking about what to do next. I dont have a hoist so raising the engine isnt an option. It seems like the rip is in a convenient location that would be a gap/failure point for a multi-piece gasket anyway, so I am considering using some RTV in that spot and giving it a go with the gasket I have. Any suggestions?

    Also, are you supposed to use a thin line of RTV along the block-side of the gasket? I read that somewhere but it was not mentioned in the instructions that came with the gasket.

    Thanks!

  2. #2

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    Hi buckhr,

    This is definitely doing it the hard way. I did mine by taking the k member out from under the engine. Went to Harbor Freight and bought the engine support to hold the engine.

    You’ll need https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-tcs45449 this gasket set to seal up the front of the engine. There are 2 cork corner seals and then the silicone lower timing cover seal. If your main gasket is silicone, I don’t think rtv is needed. It will be needed at the cork/silicone joints.

    Good luck!
    W

    As always, "It ain't what you don't know that gets you, it's what you think you know that just ain't so."

  3. #3

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    Unbolt the motor mounts and jack up on the transmission bell housing.

    Drop the oilpump and take it out with the pan.

    On an efi motor, I pulled all the hoses and the driveshaft, tried to use a engine hoist, not worth it. Took me 12 hours. I can pull the engine in an hour.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  4. #4

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    Thanks but the trans is out of the car so can't jack up on the bellhousing or rely on the trans cross member for support. If i unbolt the motor mounts the engine will not be supported.

  5. #5

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    Thanks, but I dont understand why you are linking a kit with the timing chain gaskets??? I am not touching the timing chain, timing chain cover, or anything other than the oil pan seals.

    My question was really: since I ripped/tore the one-piece gasket at the joint, can I supplement or augment the seal just at that one joint and expect (hope!) it would work? Most of the gasket kits seem to require RTV at these joints anyway, so does the tear in my one-piece really matter if I take my time applying gasket material to the rip location?

  6. #6

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    Just take a 4X4 block of wood put it between the fender rails and jack the engine up with ratchet straps. Done. Don't have to disconnect anything but the motor mounts.

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default

    Yes, you can use rtv to seal the torn portion, but it needs to be totally oil free.
    Yes, you chose the hard way for sure, but anything is possible with creative thinking.

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    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

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  8. #8
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4eyedblind View Post
    Just take a 4X4 block of wood put it between the fender rails and jack the engine up with ratchet straps. Done. Don't have to disconnect anything but the motor mounts.
    Except his transmission is already out of the car.

    If I was you, I'd be trying to get my hands on a cherry picker. Yanking the motor is easy compared to what you're putting yourself through. This is the one time where it sucks that Ford put the distributor up front.

    Cale

  9. #9

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    I did that a few weeks ago. Not fun, but I did jack it up off of the engine mounts - https://youtu.be/USDiKWQZiN0

  10. #10

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    Like I said, ratchet strap it up on a 4X4 between the fender rails . Take a minute and it's pretty easy from that point. You can easily reach all the bolts.

  11. #11

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    Thanks for the replies everyone! Honestly getting to and removing the bolts wasnt bad, but installing the new gasket will be a pain. Ive got time though, no pressure to get this done soon. The interior is completely out, trans is out, etc. Just keeping forward progress! Ill take some pics and post when the install is done.

    Thanks especially to @richpet for the specific answer I was looking for!

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